When you look at someone else’s shop, you can’t help but to think of improvements they could make.  But what would you say about your own shop?
My main dust collector for the filter bag upgrade, with 6” diameter duct riser, which splits into two 5” diameter main ducts. Here you can see the duct drop to the floor sweep, and the branch on the right side is the 25 ft.
A central, high-powered 3-5 Hp cyclone collector (or single-stage with professional-grade filter bags) that you pre-duct to all your machines with 16 oz. This floorsweep allows me to use a broom and sweep large piles of sawdust to this location to send it to oblivion. If I take air from two locations in one tool, the airflow needed will go up, and for my table saw probably around 800 cfm at minimum. Here’s a collection of accessories, including a swivel connection, hose clamps, duct hangers, foil tape (makes a perfect seal), and a roll of metal strapping. I walk in the shop after a snack or after watching Rough Cut, reach for the keychain remote and clip it on my belt loop, then grab a stack of boards that need jointing. The only thing wrong with this picture is that I have to manually open and close the blastgate at each machine (I could leave a few open at one time but I like to maximize suction at the one I’m using since I don’t have a million horsepower cyclone).
In future blog posts, I’ll dive into more detail about things like accessories, air cleaners, and detailed design (like how to calculate your duct sizes) but here’s an overview of things that you shouldn’t forget about when sitting down to design your dust collection.  For more info, go to the Dust Collection Resource Page as well. For the seams in the straight duct, elbows, and blastgates, you’ll need to brush on duct sealant.
Chip separators use a cyclone action to collect the largest particles and chips, and only the smaller dust particles make it to your collector bag. When you’re done with your planning, note the lengths of each duct so you can buy it. But that was it, I bought those things, didn’t spend as much $ as I feared, and now I have a pretty good system that I can keep upgrading!
Here’s my Dust Collection Design that I did in AutoCad, a free PDF download for your reference to help you design your shop!
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The main problems we face from customer site after installation of these furnaces are dust.
So my questions are: does this approach suggest that I need a very high powered dust collector? Last question: since I will move the hose from machine to machine manually, what’s the best way to connect to the (reducers attaching to the) built in outlets on the equipment?
The more CFM you get the greater distance you can collect the fine dust; the suction distance drops radically with distance, meaning you need much more CFM the further away you want to draw in dust.
Now if I had the DC-650, I might look at centralizing the collector and radially distributing ductwork to each tool, though that compromises your layout. Or, depending on your basement shop’s layout, you could located the CFM-hungry machines together and use the collector to duct locally to those, and use a shop vac for portable sanders, routers, etc.
The chip separator does cause a pressure drop, decreasing the CFM you get out of the collector, so I tend not to use it since I just empty the bottom bag on my collector. With your collector in the attic, a chip separator may add convenience for emptying, if located at ground level or maybe on a reachable shelf in. I have my mains split into 2 runs, so if you do the same, one main can pick up the heavy-chip machines, and the other main can pick up the rest. I just redoing a shop and really have questions on drawing every line up, instead of across the wall at the level of the collector. For my ductwork, I did go to Lowes for the straight duct, but for the elbows I had to go online to Penn State Industries or Oneida to get the long-radius elbows. As far as ducts collapsing, with my system I use straight duct around 30 ga and don’t have any problems with only one blastgate open. I’ve seen CFM charts online if you Google CFM Requirements Woodworking or something like that. My wife persuaded me to get a saw dust collection unit for my workshop which gives me a great opportunity to re-organise the entire workshop and contents around the new dust collector unit. I recall viewing some free of charge device get rid of plans which my pal experienced, as well as I mightbe could not quite write out from their store exactly what We had been designed to perform, or even specifically what proceeded to go exactly where.


I thought I had the perfect design.  Everything seemed to flow, tools were arranged ergonomically, and everything had electricity and a dust collection connection. Most things were exactly what I imagined they would be like, but there were a few deficiencies I couldn’t ignore. I also realized I didn’t make any provisions for my future 18” or 20” bandsaw.  If I bought one, it would be a pain in the butt retrofit my dust collection ductwork and electrical layout for it. My list of frustrations and deficiencies was large enough to warrant doing a complete retrofit sweep all at once. If you’re a contractor retrofitting the air conditioning in an existing building, one of the first things you do is provide temporary air conditioning while the main system is being torn apart.  For your shop, plan it so that you don’t have to stop woodworking while you do your retrofitting. My planer, since I moved it, is temporarily connected to my dust collection via a flex hose across the floor.  That way I can use my shop while I’m installing the sheet metal ductwork overhead.
You can use a shop vac while setting up or retrofitting your main dust collector.  You can use a temporary power strip on the floor for handheld tools before permanently mounting one on your workbench. Eventually I’ll organize my fasteners at the Assembly Table, but for now this works well, and I don’t have to fish for the exact one I need. Before I close up the walls after adding insulation, I figure I better solve all the remaining problems I know about with the electrical and dust collection.
If you’re using a shop vacuum that you wheel around from machine to machine, you’re putting up with a time-waster that you could do without.  Every time I see a dust collector on wheels with a flex hose connected to only one machine in someone’s shop I think wow that must be really annoying. If you have a good base to start with, meaning you’re already following a good design, then retrofitting from time to time will clear out the latest list of deficiencies. If you already have a central dust collector, and you run ducts to each machine, you know how convenient that is.
Provide yourself future duct connections by capping an extra elbow or wye fitting with foil tape that you can remove later and add a blastgate and flex hose. I processed each fitting with sealant, let it dry, then put together a few pieces at a time on the bench before strapping them up to the ceiling. If you notice that there is a lot of space between two branch taps, you can always add one extra and cap it so you have some flexibility to adjust things later.
In the last post, Wiring Up Your Shop, I walked through how I came up with my electrical plan.  Once I decided what would go on what circuit, it was time to figure out where all the outlets would go. By running the power cord up to a ceiling outlet I avoid tripping over them causing a safety hazard. Are you happy with your electrical and dust collection systems?  Do you need a complete overhaul or just some adjustments?  How about this weekend? How I went from a cluttered and disorganized shop to a super-productive layout with a convenient dust collection and electrical set-up.
By first drawing a plan, then picking up all the materials, I put it all together assembly-line style.
I added a metal mesh screen here to prevent larger objects from hitting the impeller of the collector. Also, shop vacuums are loud due to their universal motors, and fill up quickly unless you have a small $100 cyclone chip separator such as the Dust Deputy. An upgrade that I’m considering is using a cyclone type central collector with 1-micron filtration, or a more powerful single-stage 3-5 hp model with a much larger 16 oz. Here at the router table I collect dust and chips from both underneath the router and from the cutterhead itself.
Then I open the jointer’s blastgate (sometimes closing the one that’s open first), hit the “ON” button on the remote, and start jointing. Before doing that I close the blastgate on the jointer, then go to the planer and open that blastgate. If you think you have enough airflow because all the chips are being picked up, you might be missing the finer dust that you can’t see. Static Pressure) to see what the predicted airflow is.  Also look at your largest CFM-requiring tool and check that the static losses from the machine back to the collector results in enough CFM and air velocity.
Then make a list of how many of each size elbows you need, wye fittings, duct size transitions, how many blastgates, etc. We are one of the leading manufacturers of Steel melting Induction furnace starting from 5kgs to 60tons capacity. We are ready to take this type of solution from your company if you have readymade solution of this problem.
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The mistake I made was not allowing enough clearance for long boards while crosscutting at the table saw when I first installed my dust collection ductwork. Whether you use a shop vacuum or your main dust collector, the important thing is you’re not ignoring it.
You do need to be careful that you leave enough slack so that you can move or rotate the machine in its mobile base without unplugging it!
Start with your thoughts, list your requirements, then try it out to see if that’s what you really want. I used 5” diameter duct because it has less pressure drop than 4” for the CFM my collector has, and also it’s not oversized to maintain enough air velocity to carry the chips back to the fan (make sure you maintain around 4,000 – 4,500 fpm velocity). Make sure the flex hose that drops down won’t interfere with stock feeding into or out of the tool. That’s where knowing if you have the CFM recommended by industrial hygienists and organizations like ACGIH comes into play. Standard elbows have radii 1X the duct diameter Also there is less chance of clogs by doing this.
A couple of programs are every tough in order to translate whatsoever, as nicely as finish becoming useless because you can’t realize all of them. The actual diagrams had been chaos as nicely as There is completely no supplies checklist or even decrease linen. The quality from the information found in Woodworking Dust Collectors (Woodworking Dust Collectors : Free Tool Shed Blueprints) is well above anything you will find that you can buy. The more convenient you make it to connect a sander to your dust collection the more likely you’ll use it. This is to keep any one main line to any tool shorter, reducing the static pressure (resistance to airflow) to each machine. Re-connecting flex hoses for every cut breaks up your workflow, takes energy, and eventually you may tend to make quick cuts without turning on the collector. These stores don’t usually sell sheet metal straight duct so you can go to your “big box” home store for that.
Though the package is addressed mainly to skilled carpenters, it could be utilized by much less knowledgeable people, as nicely.
This drawing looks a lot different than the one I’m currently using (click here for my current dust collection plan). With better filters from American Filter Fabric Co., I no longer have this fine dust layer you see on the black flex hose and frame. This is because you calculate static pressure based on the longest run from the collector to the most distant machine connection. Then your shop gets all covered in dust and is unpleasant to work in, and your lungs receive cumulative damage.
I found that I had to order my long-radius elbows online (which have a lower pressure drop than standard elbows), and the same with some of the wye fittings.  I currently use 30 ga.
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The reason you see the coating of fine dust with the original Jet bags is because the lower bag is a breathable, woven polyester bag. If you waste 10 hours in a month on switching duct connections and running over to the collector to turn it on and off many times a day, you could’ve bought yourself a cool system and saved all that physical energy. The second bonus is a CD containing 150 premium woodworking videos for a far better understanding of the guidelines.
This singed-felt filter bag filters down to 1-micron 96-98% brand new (without a dust cake), and even more after a dust cake develops. This discussion supplies a wealth of detail on duct sizing, vacuum capacity, cyclone separator design, and more. Woodshop Dust Collection System Specs This discussion supplies a wealth of detail on duct sizing, vacuum capacity, cyclone separator design, and more.
Woodshop Dust Control and Collection on WN Network delivers the latest Videos and Editable pages for News & Events, including Entertainment, Music, Sports, Science and more. Application tips on dust collecting ducting for a shop dust collection system and ventilation ducting for a wood shop dust collection system.



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Comments to «Woodshop dust collection design»

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  3. DelPiero on 21.09.2014 at 14:58:38
    The cabinets and the ceiling so I want to get the barbecue area in the.