The joints on this panel don’t need any reinforcement, but if you’d like to make them a little stronger, plunge a #20 biscuit slot into the joint on the top and bottom edges of the frame and glue a biscuit in place. To help with alignment and to add visual detail, I used splines to join the side and front edging pieces to the top. Fasten the base to the cabinet by driving #8 x 1″-long screws up through predrilled holes in the centre of the blocks and into the bottom of the cabinet. Carport free plans – how to build a wooden carport, Carport free plans – how to build a wooden carport. Free garden bench plans – wooden benches for outdoors, Garden bench plans add charm and additional seating to your patio, deck or yard. I used European steamed beech for the legs and aprons because of its light colour and calm grain pattern.
I planned my tabletop using coloured markers to draw rows on graph paper, then scissors to cut the drawing “across the grain” into evenly spaced strips. Complement the end-grain tabletop pattern with chamfers on the edges that come to a point at the corners. The same techniques used to build this end-grain coffee table work for making butcher blocks and end-grain cutting boards. Joint and plane strips for the tabletop, then glue them together to create the initial long-grain slab.
After clamping the long-grain strips together, remove the squeeze-out with a putty knife before the glue has a chance to harden. Due to the end-grain slab’s length, it is hard to bring all the sawn strips together so they’re level for gluing. This sample slab has dowels aligning the end-grain rows, which means you only need clamps on the ends when you set this glue-up. As with this sample slab, a belt sander is the best tool for levelling the end-grain tabletop. This jig is a sled that travels back and forth across two level beams, allowing a handheld router to mill a surface flat.
For maximum protection and to limit wood movement, I applied 10 coats of oil-based varnish. Otherwise, cut the truss boards to 20″ length and set in place and mark angles by hand. Cut the top, bottom, sides, divider and shelves to size, then mark the dado locations for the shelves carefully. Placing fasteners at these locations means they’ll be hidden by the face frame after final assembly. Once assembled and attached to the carcass, this cherry covers all the exposed plywood edges. The plywood of the carcass will support these joints, so they don’t need to be incredibly strong.
Next, apply a coat of glue to the ends of the rails and inside the grooves in the stiles and rails before sliding these parts in place around the plywood.
Remove the protruding half of the biscuit with a handsaw after the glue cures, and sand flush. On the rails, you will need to continue this groove along the ends of the pieces by using a shopmade tenoning jig. I began with two coats of Minwax tung-oil finish to accentuate the colour of the cherry, then topped it with three coats of satin wipe-on polyurethane for durability. If you are staining the table, you may wish to fill the screw holes after staining, as wood putty does not stain the same color as natural wood. Some sources say you should stay away from certain species, such as walnut and rosewood, while others use all kinds of exotic species in their cutting boards.
The thickness of the long-grain glue-up will determine the width of each row in the final end-grain tabletop.
These strips will then be turned end-grain up, with every other strip flipped end over end to create the final tabletop pattern. Transfer those lines down the faces of each joint with a square, then set up a fence on the drillpress to locate the dowel holes.


Test-fit all strips with dowels but do not glue.If all parts come together properly, take them apart, place dowels in the holes in advance and put glue on the opposite side of each strip. Sand until all defects are gone, whether they be glue splotches or small areas torn out by the router. If you want to incorporate an inlay detail into the aprons, it’s easier to cut the rabbet and glue the inlay now, before cutting to length. The router is fastened to the sled, and the whole thing needs to be long enough to bridge from beam to beam while still allowing the router bit to travel across the entire width of the tabletop. The side panels are quite wide (8″) because they provide all the vertical stiffness to the jig. You’ll have to remove the router’s baseplate and use screws to hold the router’s base to the platform.
You also need to prepare the tabletop slab so that you can attach it to the base in a manner that will let the tabletop expand and contract as it needs to. I prefer to glue up the long aprons to each pair of legs first, and then glue the two halves of the base assembly together with the short aprons the next day.
Remember that these clips should be positioned only midway into the grooves to allow for wood expansion. While the inlay might seem quite thin to push across a router table, it can be done safely with a couple of featherboards to hold the stock down on the table and against the fence. It’s easier to glue the inlay strip while it is extra-long and then cut the apron to final length afterwards, cutting through both apron and inlay at the same time. Take your square and measure at a 90 degree angle from the underside of the table up 12? and make a mark on the legs. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper.
Cut the dados using either a tablesaw with a dado-blade set or a router spinning a straight bit. Once you are sure everything fits perfectly, remove the clamps and add glue to the rabbets and dados, reassemble and reclamp. Joint, plane and rip your stile and rail material to final widths, then cross cut all of the pieces to length.
These grooves need to be stopped, as continuing to the ends will make attaching the rails difficult. These joints are not the most attractive, but they’re completely hidden by the top and base during final assembly.
Cut the parts to size and then bring everything together with glue and the fasteners of your choice. Once the glue has cured fully, trim the solid wood flush with the surface of the ply using a sharp block plane or some 150-grit paper wrapped around a sanding block. Using stub tenons and a glued-in-place plywood panel, the entire door can be made using a tablesaw. These are mostly decorative, so don’t stress about getting them super screwed in place. If not, you will need to mark it with a square (remember 50 degrees is off square, so that means the angle off the board edge would be 40 degrees.
A variety of colours provides a nice contrast, but don’t just think about colours when choosing wood; visual textures and grain patterns matter too.
Strips of wood are glued together in the usual way, along their edges, with the subsequent laminations cut, rotated and glued together again with the end-grain pointing upward.
Research the issues yourself and do what you feel comfortable with after reading up on the possible risks. It does take several days for each coat to harden, but walnut oil can take weeks and mineral oil never cures at all. To calculate the length of the long-grain strips you’ll need, multiply the rough thickness of the end-grain tabletop you want by the number of end-grain rows needed for the desired tabletop length. Since the edges being glued are long-grain surfaces, the dowels don’t need to be glued in; the joint will be strong enough on its own. You can spread glue on all of the strips at the same time using a thick-nap paint roller, which will roll right over the dowel holes without depositing glue in them.


But if opposite corners of the slab wobble up and down on a flat surface, or if there are step-shaped mismatches between end-grain strips, you’ll have significant wood to remove. A belt sander with a sanding frame to keep it from tipping or gouging is an excellent alternative.
You then have to sand with the next grit higher until all scratches left by the last grit are gone and replaced with a new, finer scratch pattern.
A generous film finish gives some scratch protection while also bringing out the different colours of the wood.
While the tabletop is a lot of work, the final pattern is incredible and makes people think that you actually glued each piece individually. TIP: For added strength, rotate the full length support to 90 degrees from the full length tabletop support. First, take a square of the table by measuring from the outer points of the legs to the diagonal opposite leg.
Check for square by measuring and equalizing diagonal measurements taken corner to corner, and then allow the glue to dry. If you do happen to cut the grooves all the way to the end, you can easily fix the situation by gluing filler strips in place at the ends of the grooves. Go slowly here, as you don’t want to sand or plane through the thin, veneered plywood surface. Once satisfied, assemble the door by putting a bead of glue in the grooves and clamping the assembly until dry. For a door latch, I wanted something a little different, so I decided to modify existing hardware to suit. To attach the holder to the table, drive a screw through these blocks and into the solid-wood edging of the top. The paper process allowed me to alternate strips to see the actual pattern I would achieve. Moreover, you have to account for the many saw cuts needed to turn the long-grain slab into end-grain rows. The dowels are only for alignment, saving you a ton of work in having to level the end-grain slab later. You could also use metal straps or plates but you can only place the metal plates on the bottom side. Recommended to paint and stain your boards before building to ensure all edges are sealed, then touch up paint after finishing. Then line up the legs with the inner edge of the boards between the middle and outside boards. Since both the carcass and the top are plywood, there is no need to allow for seasonal expansion.
Glue the base assembly together, then clamp and check for square and allow the glue to set. I ordered a brass transom latch, sanded its clear-coat finish down to bare metal, then I cleaned it and added three coats of flat black metal paint. Line this mark up with the edge of the legs, keeping the top of the seat support (shown as the bottom because the table is upside down) level with the marks made on the legs. Push the opposite legs together on the longer diagonal until your diagonals match up in distance. Predrill and countersink you screws or drill holes for bolts and tighten with a washer and nut. Use the marks you made to guide you in placing the support boards in line with the tabletop boards. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.
For one of the cross supports, you will need to screw at an angle from the side of the cross support in the tabletop support.



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