The Woodsmith Store, located on Hickman Road in Clive (a suburb of Des Moines), serves as a one-stop shopping center for woodworkers providing power tools, hand tools, hardwood lumber, and a myriad of supplies. In addition, the store offers homeowners and professional painters a full line of Benjamin Moore paints, stains and finishes. The Woodsmith Store celebrates the arrival of Spring each year with the opening of the Garden Center. Each week the store hosts in-store seminars led by local experts on a wide range of woodworking, painting, and gardening topics. Be sure to visit the Hand Tool Headlines section - scores of my favorite woodworking blogs in one place.  Also, take note of Norse Woodsmith's latest feature, an Online Store, which contains only products I personally recommend.
While I prefer to work with air-dried lumber, that’s not always possible for woodworkers who use a lot of wood or don’t have access to deal who air-dries their stock. The post Don’t Forget the Quality of the Kiln appeared first on Popular Woodworking Magazine.
So the other day the Highland Woodworking advertisement arrived in the mail and right on the front cover is the latest book from Lost Art Press: The Anarchists Design Book. If anybody out there who reads this blog has also read the Anarchist Design Book, would you mind giving me an honest, unbiased assessment of the book, likes, dislikes, etc. So, if you don’t mind lending me your opinion and a bit of your hard-earned time, I would appreciate it. Ask ten woodworkers to explain what they mean when they use the term register chisel and you’re apt to get ten different answers. Many craftsmen of the bygone era (including carpenters, millwrights and machinists) would use the word register to indicate a surface that must mate exactly with another or one to be used as a reference datum for measurement. While a flat back would seem to be the norm, most tools warp during the hardening and tempering process. Almost every woodworker has extra table saw blades, or at least blades for a variety of tasks. The Festool Roadshow came through Atlanta, GA last Friday, April 15th and setup in our parking lot at Highland Woodworking for a day full of Festool demonstrations, giveaways, education and more!
Festool Roadshow truck driver Eric Wilfong utilized the help of several Roadshow staff members blocking traffic on the street to squeeze his 70-plus foot long rig into the narrow entrance to our parking lot. Chris Bagby, owner and CEO of Highland Woodworker, was there to greet everyone who attended. The truck opens up into a giant floorspace which allows the set-up for different Festool demonstration stations. Several members of the Festool show staff were on hand to give demonstrations of all of the different Festool tools, as well as answer any questions. The Festool Roadshow was a great chance for people to test out any of the Festool tools and learn how to use them. Every Festool you buy comes in a convenient systainer that is easy to carry, pack up, and helps to keep your shop tools organized!
In the middle of the event, Highland Woodworking had a drawing where 1 lucky attendee, Doug Frey, took home the Grand Prize of a $300 Highland Woodworking Gift Certificate. Doug Frey, winner of our in-store giveaway standing in our Festool department at Highland Woodworking.
To see more photo’s from the Festool Roadshow at Highland Woodworking, checkout our Facebook Photo Album. The post The Festool Roadshow Visits Highland Woodworking appeared first on Woodworking Blog.
This past weekend I finally mustered enough courage to take on the Witpeer stock for the trapezoid leg of this table.
On Friday afternoon I fed them to my electric planer, just to get rid of some of the nasty stuff.
They then sat clamped to each other overnight, awaiting the major assault by hand plane the next day.
The next board unfortunately had at least 5 times more twist, which made me realise that I was a tad optimistic with the two planes I prepared.
In the pictures below you can see the telltale scalloped appearance left by it’s heavily cambered blade. The extent of the wist in some of the boards necessitated the use of a wedge to stop it from wobbling all over the bench. It took the best part of 5 hours of hand planing to work my way through 7 boards on the Saturday morning.
Just to remind you of were this stock fit into the project I include two pictures of the prototype model.
At this stage I had to quickly work out the exact measurements of the trapezoid leg using the prototype as my guide. Once I knew what to aim for I straightened one edge of each board by hand planing and used that as a reference surface to rip the other edge with the help of the table saw. After I got the last drawer guide glued in the toolbox and it had set up for while, I started looking around for something else to do. It wasn’t enough that JimM fabricated a spectacular tool cabinet in homage to Henry Studley, but like Studley he also fabricated a number of tools for the inventory. On a related note, I forwarded the pictures Jim had sent me of this project to Mister Stewart, wo promptly contacted JimM and invited him to visit the original in person later this year. Maybe it’ll be done in time for Christmas (BTW, I missed the last Christmas deadline). I mentioned in my last post that old guy Bill has been having some back problems lately-mainly muscle spasms, not that I’m happy admitting the truth, but that’s what it is.
Although I was injured, and busy on top of it, that still didn’t keep me away from my workbench completely.
The presentation below is known as a furniture deck.  A deck is a series of slides (think PowerPoint) that lays out a plan or vision. This is why you will find little pile of tenon cheeks hanging out on the corner of my workbench during any given project. One point that is brought up in most of the research is the contrast in the availability of work for a woman inside and outside the home. Sometimes the master’s wife was prohibited to go outside the home to accomplish a task necessary for the workshop to function.
Guild records about warnings and fines, complaints brought by widows and the increasing restrictions guilds placed on women have helped researchers determine the kind of work women did and their contributions to the various crafts.
It is always advisable to handle these heavy kilns with two people, however it is possible, with due care, to operate these kilns single handed once sited.
In a good SketchUp model anything that is a distinct piece of wood in real life is a component. As I have said before, my wife is constantly insisting that I have three of every woodworking tool ever invented. In addition, I also have a usual complement of power tools – table saw, drill press, lathe, band saw, etc, etc. I figure that my collection is worth somewhere around $30,000 and one option would be for my wife to sell them and enjoy the proceeds.
It has also occurred to me that another perhaps even better idea would be for her to donate the entire lot to some school or organization that would put it to good use training the future woodworkers of America.
I would love to hear from some of my fellow woodworkers out there about their ideas or suggestions for solving my problem.
A few months ago I was tired of running into my kitchen table while sneaking through my house to get a midnight snack. I’ve read about a few woodworkers who cherish their benches to a degree that almost prevents them from working on it. I wanted to post a quick notification that The Slightly Confused Woodworker blog will be going on a (hopefully brief) hiatus.
The good news, at least for me, is that I’ve actually gotten in a relatively large amount of woodworking time over the past few days. So if everything goes well and things level off at work a little, I should have the blog up and running again by next week with several new posts, photos, and possibly a short video. The April 26th Woodworkers meeting at the Anchorage Museum has been cancelled.  Our scheduled presenter is unable to make it, and we were not able to put another program together. As some of you know I have been striving to replicate urushi techniques with West System marine epoxy, using resin 105 with catalyst 205. Up to this point I was sailing along using pigments and dyes in the layers of epoxy to render the painted finish I desired, and abraded between each application with dry 3M Tri-m-ite (white) silicon carbide paper. The final (?) coating of clear epoxy was applied today, and I got catastrophic cissing (or beading-up) of the coating.
The only thing different this time was that I had switched to 3M Tri-M-ite 600 wet or dry silicon carbide paper, the black stuff, for the final coat preparations.
Maker Tom Thackray is an experienced chairmaker who makes these because it is not at all easy finding these traditional tools.
Like a wooden spokeshave the cutting angle is low, so a chatter free action is easy to achieve. The wooden floors, open rafters, and the generous use of wood in the fixtures recall the feel of old-time hardware stores and lumber yards. One of the major problems with kiln-dried lumber is that it is sometimes rushed through the kiln to get it to market.
In general, I probably purchase 3 or 4 per year, blind in most cases (in the sense that I did not read any reviews etc.). The only thing I know about the book are some snippets I’ve read on the Popular Woodworking blog. As I said earlier, in general I don’t have an issue when it comes to blindly purchasing a woodworking book, but I’m trying to be a bit more judicious with my woodworking fun money. You might remember the picture below, which is were I got to with these boards some weeks ago. Of course the problem is that the planer does not get rid of any wist, bowing or cupping (length wise any).

Therefore, if you have a serious amount of work to do like this, it is best to go into battle with razor sharp cutting edges.
The stock that I am preparing will form one of three layers of timber that will ultimately make up the big solid trapezoid leg. This means that I am now just about at the stage were most woodworkers start their project. It was too early to quit the shop so I picked up on the four squaring of my bookshelf boards.
Second, I was very pleased with the results…until…I noticed the corrected area still had a few “toothy” spots. So the moral of this story, in particular to new woodworkers or woodworkers new to purchasing vintage tools, is be wary. About 500 years later an English researcher reviewed Boileau’s work and found of the 100 crafts, five were headed by women and in most of the crafts women were employed.
Archer created multiple data bases, deciphered some of the obscure terms and shed new light on the extent and kinds of work done by women.
Except for the possible exception of the clogs, sounds like what women in the 21st century are making, doesn’t it? For the wife, daughters and any other related or unrelated women it would be easier and safer to learn and perform the craft of the master in the home workshop. Each city had its own guilds and through time related guilds might merge and later separate. Doubtless we all complete very similar tasks, but we also all have our own preferences which leads to tweaking designs. Not to mention all sorts of sanding, clamping, gluing, and finishing supplies and other goodies.
I’m not entirely sure why I chose to be sneaky considering the only other living creature in my house was the dog snoozing on the couch. There are no nicks, chisel marks or paint droppings allowed on their workbenches – paint droppings, to some of these woodworkers, are damn near as bad as bird or rat droppings. When I went to put the bottom of the first tray in the box, the top runners were a silly mm too wide. I built another “Sellers” box and prepped the material for two more (more on that in my next post), I’m most of the way through a Superior rip saw restoration, my daughter and I made a piece of doll sized furniture, and I got the material prepped and ready to go to build another spoke shave. So thanks to everybody who reads, comments (even if you are being critical) and puts up with my nonsense. I had working on that in the back of my mind but other than moving the leg stock around the shop, I did no woodworking on it. It has a coat of Shellac to seal the Cypress and I expect I'll paint the outside with some color of Milk Paint. Other than driving round trip in an intermittent rain and having to deal with masshole drivers it was a very boring 4 hour drive. I won’t call woodworking books expensive, though they generally cost more than your typical novel or history book, but I probably do spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 each and every year.
It appears to focus on staked furniture, which in all honesty is a style that I don’t care for all that much, though I do prefer furniture that is simpler in design. And considering that I’ve had issues with “anarchy” in the past, I’d hate to spend money on a book knowing that I already may disagree with the subject. If they bang around in a drawer, you’re sure to dull the carbide tips, if not knock one completely off.
They were even able to put the Festool CT SYS HEPA Systainer Dust Extractor to work in order to clean up all of the day’s dust and shavings.
Now can you imagine anything better to do with your first cup of coffee on a Saturday morning than sharpening a couple of plane blades. The flat (or face) side were marked as usual (bottom in picture) and the opposite side had scribble all over it to help identify when it is completely flat during the process of lazy planing (aka planing with an electric planer). The leg will have an overall thickness of 44 mm (therefore exactly double the thickness of the top of this table) of which this layer will make up 20 mm.
Johnsbury bevels, but otherwise stuck mostly to making replicas of tools Studley made like the marking gauges and rosewood-handled bench chisels. A while back I had prepped most of the wood and yesterday started some of the assembly along with my kid.
When I received the tool the iron wasn’t mangled, but it was poorly ground (very likely with a grinding wheel) that left an uneven hollow and gave it a slight skew. They were very minute, but enough to tell me that that area still had some tempering problems. Women worked the same hours as men, they could be apprentices and the equivalent of a journeyman.
One-third of the women worked in the more traditional fields of food and clothing production and two-thirds worked in almost every other job that men did. Even if a woman was not performing the same full work as that of an apprentice or journeyman (because of incomplete training or other household responsibilities) she could still contribute to the production of the shop via smaller jobs such as gluing, decorative work, painting or polishing. We might take a little off the leg or add an extra dog whole, whatever makes things easier. With making the partitions and trays there is no lifting and grunting, just some ass scratching trying to figure out where everything goes and how big it needs to be. One thing I've noticed about Highlands is that it stocks very little EYP (eastern white pine) as compared to other woods such as red oak or poplar. And though I’m not really on-board with the whole “anarchist woodworker” ideology, that alone wouldn’t stop me from reading a book.
It will be the timber you see when looking at the table from the end seen in the second picture. The only difference is that apart from well prepared stock, I got some blisters and muscles on the house. Normally in these situations it is recommended to avoid heavy lifting, repetitive motion etc.
The only thing that kept us from completing the table was running out of material, so we went to Lowe’s to pick up the missing piece. For a master involved in carpentry for a building site the female members of the household would generally not work at the site.
After running through all the options the best and easiest was to dig out the heat gun and a wet rag to undo the glue up. The good news is once the lower tray runners are installed right or wrong it is pretty much a done deal except for deciding on one more or two more trays.For installing runners and dividers inside a box there ain't nothing better than hot hide glue because it is almost impossible to set clamps.
I have the twisted bench, the toolbox, a desktop bookshelf,a  resaw frame, two stair saws, and a clock I can work on.
So I’m about to do something I normally wouldn’t do and ask for an opinion of a woodworking book. A few weeks back I used the coffin smoother to clean my workbench top, and I noticed that it had become “toothy” in the area of the skew.
This issue once again illustrates my absolute loathing of (anyone) using a grinding wheel to sharpen fine tool steel.
Also check the flatness, because if an iron can’t be reasonably flattened it can also lead to issues such as this.
As far as can be determined from studied records most female laborers on building sites tended to be related to unskilled male laborers, poor single women and widows and slaves.
Then again, I don't know if the person I bought it from didn't do some de-rusting first.I went over to the Hyperkitten plane dating site here. But it wasn’t in our garage or basement, it was in his custom furniture shop and it was because I was learning a trade. The fact that I was also preparing to participate in a charity run (another activity not recommended while having back issues) kept me from woodworking as much as I would like, and for once I didn’t mind. I guessed that the steel there lost its temper (or something to that effect) and will no longer stay sharp. Despite what most woodworkers will say, using a grinding wheel is not easy and takes more than hand to eye coordination; it takes a delicate touch.
That gap would be at the top right side of the drawer opening.asking for problemsI can dovetail this side and I will end up with a slanted drawer side. As you should be able to see in the photo, the lower runners are setting on a spacer as I wait for the glue to cure.Once the glue cures I'll decide on one or two more trays. So to make a long story short, I spent a good hour first straightening, them cambering, then polishing the plane iron.
I quite honestly do not want to spend another two hours regrinding this tool, but in order for it to work correctly that is what needs to be done. There was a shorts bin over flowing with mahogany but I was thinking more along the lines of padauk or maybe zebra wood. Watching me trying to kneel would make a great shoot for America's funniest home videos.I can kneel and get back up but the getting down isn't the easiest thing I do all day long. The saw till is on the left side of the photo (will be the front of the tool box) and it has 4 slots for saws. This is not only a good feeling, it also tells me that my reference face is flat and straight. Besides it is a heavy sucker and every time it needs turning over it kicks my ass.Lots of less than perfect work in the making but it is square enough and strong enough to do the job. Every other one listed I had except for the raised rib behind the frog.There is a large raised rib at the toe behind the front knob and in front of the frog.
I don't know how I ended up with an odd number of drawer sides.waxed the scrub plane soleWaxing the sole of the scrub wasn't a super duper deal be all. About a third of the way into the carcass it gets square.time to switch to something else while I thinkMy marking knife set up overnight. It did make the initial first plane runs easy but after that I didn't notice it being any more slicker than with no wax.
Maybe it was because of the scallops the plane left on the first run that on subsequent runs, the sole of the plane wasn't in full contact with the board.

I guess I'm lucky on this because this is when Stanley starting putting rosewood totes and knobs back on the planes. I tried it and I didn't see anything especially beneficial using wax on it.waxed the #6After the scrub plane, I used the #6 to remove the scallops and get the board reasonably flat and close to the gauge lines. I can place boards on it to check it for twist standing up.scrubbing the opposite sideThe other side is my reference and I ran a gauge line 360. I can get both stretchers sapwood free but the cross arms I won't be so lucky.the other sideI have time to play with this and get the best layouts I can. I had to rely on the what the shavings looked like rather then them and how much resistance I felt pushing the plane.waxed the #4The wax did it's job on this plane too. I am also going to try and use the walnut burl veneer I got in my pizza box on this clock somewhere.the best ash I could find in the pileIsaac at Blackburn tools recommended ash as one of the woods to use to make the resaw frame with.
I'm going to scrub off as much as I can and try to get it even in relation to the gauge line 360.the high cornerI have been scrubbing this for about 10 minutes now.
It doesn't make any difference to the plane iron if the frog is solid or ribbed like this one.recently sharpened and honedback was lightly touched up and flattened a wee bitI have another iron that may fit this #8.
That will make it easier for the next step.the other cornerI had to remove a fair bit of twist on the reference face and that telegraphed to this side. I just have to remember where I squirreled it away.rosewood under the finishIt looks like someone used a trowel to put the finish on this knob. I had to have stepped off wrong going from one side to the other somehow.tried blue tapeI am using blue tape to get the layout I want. I may try it again when I start drawing social security.the four horsemanThe only plane I didn't wax for flatting the drawer sides was the #7. The majority of my scrubbing time was dealing with the high corners.#6 was the next batterThe #6 evened out the board and removed the scallops left by the scrub plane. If this one is toast I'll remove it and put a clean piece and start over it's even coming both waysplaned a piece of scrap to the same width as the front to practice onI don't like this layout from the blue tapeNot only are there too many tails, the pin sockets don't look good neither. I think I can get the parts I need without having any sapwood in them.two stair saws one rip and one crosscutI was going to use some of my rough sawn cherry for this but I decided to use maple.
When I got continuous shavings from one end of the board to the other I stopped.bevel up jack was nextThe jack removed all the remaining scallops left behind by the #6 and it's cambered iron. This doesn't look like shellac neither but maybe a lacquer.some ruse hereThis rust turned out to be just surface rust.
I wasn't impressed with that waxing job and I didn't see any reason to try it on the #7 and not like it too.slight differenceI wasn't sure if I was going to do half blind dovetails on the drawers. I can easily position two of these on this board with room to spare.this is interestingI did a quick planing on the maple to get look see at this.
A lot of what I do is automatic with me now whereas before I would stop and think about it. I may have to use the cherry after all and use this board for something else.finished up the short onesDoing the short ones was a wee bit more difficult than the long ones.
BTW, the wood shavings appear to be frog screw is rusted and one is cleanrosewood toteThis finish was put on with a trowel.
Removing the twist was almost nothing but squaring the other two faces to the reference ones kicked my butt. I wanted the ends to be thicker than the shelf but one corner had some nasty checks that ate up the thickness. I don't know if it is necessary to use drawer sides that are thinner but the other 2 times I did half blinds, I did it this way.getting a parallel widthI set the panel gauge to a few frog hairs more than the width of the opening. Both the knob and tote will be scraped down to bare wood and then some shellac will be looks to be dead flat from hereno light shining throughThis is something to clap your hands about.
The chisel layout is good because there isn't any guessing as to what size chisel to use to chop the waste. That is ok as they are going to be the rails and don't have to be the same size as the legs.ripping out the drawer sidesThe first two batters are going to be the middle 3 drawers and the one big bottom drawer.
It will still work out as they are.the front viewThe original plan was to put two drawers, one atop the other, in the outside openings of the middle.
But I still do it with dividers and I have enough chisels where getting one to fit isn't a problem.some warm up sawingI was going to try and half blind the drawer as it is but I changed my mind. I'll do the five narrow width drawers last.ripping off the side of the benchI have seen this shown in a lot of my old woodworking books. I picked the width.not square - slight gap at the topBoth sides of this bottom drawer aren't square.
I would have to put in two sets of side mount drawer guides for the top drawers and that isn't going to happen. I planed both sides to fit the opening and I ended up with a snug fitting drawer front.My normal way of doing a drawer would have been making the making the drawer by dovetailing it together based on measurements taken with a rule.
Patrick Leach says the guys that used these never bothered to flatten them and I haven't seen anything written in the old books about doing this neither.2"I wonder why the #8 is wider than the #7?
Make a new drawer front and put a rabbet on the ends so that it covers the sides of the carcass. I get truer cuts this way over a vertically sawn one.very little waste with hand sawing parts outlast oneI planed one face flat, straight, and twist free.
I can only imagine what trying to secure drawer mounts in that tight enclosed space would be like.the back viewThe rails, drawer dividers, and guides stiffened the carcass up a lot. The rabbet will hide the out of square and I can still veneer it.Another option is to make the drawer box with through dovetails and glue a thin piece of wood onto to the front.
I am going to do the drawers the way Paul Sellers did the ones on the tool cabinet he is building now. I think the drawer interiors will hold up over the long haul.most of the drawer parts are in the box at the bottomI will have to make new drawer parts for the middle outside drawers. I was a wee bit sore after this and I called it quits here.stickered to relax and do any stupid wood trickssomething to ease the sorenessThis came in the mail today.
The big board on the top was going to be a lid but I think I can get all the new drawer parts out of it.left over 4x4'sThe new project will be made with the 4x4's leftover from the saw donkeys.
This will definitely get extra attention in the sharp iron department.pre soak with WD-40I tried to unscrew these by holding the rods with pliers but I couldn't break the brass knobs free. I could add a thin piece of pine on the outside bottom between the drawer side and the carcass to make up that difference. Joseph had emailed me last week saying the books and DVDs finally made it to New York and once they cleared customs, they would be mailed out.
I didn't want to go Cro-Magnon on this and strip the brass or the threaded workedIf this hadn't worked, I would have used the hair dryer on it and tried to heat it up. It came today and I was expecting it monday according to the tracking information.3 DVDsIt sucks to get old because I would have bet a lung that there were only 2 DVDs in this set.
I'll find out how it works out for down and 3 to godrawer sides fittedThe drawer sides aren't snug.
I did them so that they slide in and out without binding.nice to have two workbenchesI cleared off a spot on the sharpening bench so I could set up my shooting board on it. It gives me the heebie jeebies and anything that makes me feel like that I don't do on the tablesaw.bandsaw is nexttwo bandsaw cuts and I have four partsfour squaring some leg blanksThis bench I have is too low and needs to be about 3" higher. Now that I know the type I have I'll email Bill Rittner and buy a replacement mushroom knob and a tote in cherry.some kind of grungy crud hereI already hit this with orange cleaner and got nothing to come off. I scraped off what I could with an old chisel.hit it againI let it sit on this and soak for a while and this time it seemed to work. I have three of them done already with two reference faces planed.rounded crappy sidesnice looking two reference facesThe planing of these blanks went a hell of a lot smoother than when I made the saw donkeys.
I do want the plane to be fits in the LN honing guideI am right at the extreme edge of the screw on this. The other two openings are the same size.doneI made the back of the drawers the same as the fronts. I got very little tear out even though the grain, from looking at it, appeared to reverse itself several times in 21 inches.
I'll sharpen and hone it for 25°.two bevelsIt didn't come out too well in this pic but there is the very shiny honed bevel as I got it and a duller ribbon above it that I just did on my coarsest diamond stone. For these four drawers I'm going to put a groove in the front and drawer slips for the sides. I'll finish this up tomorrow or this weekend.wee bit of pittingNothing serious here or of any concern. Maybe tomorrow I can do the dovetails on the big drawer.tried epoxyI had previously tried to fix this with a piece of wood using it like a wedge. This is barely below the surface and it's in the heel area.few spots hereNothing close to the mouth and the remainder of the sole is clean.
One thing about this smaller stock is my planes can take a swipe across the width of the stock. I'll have to make a pit stop at my local Harbor Freight store to get some big sanding belts. If this doesn't work I don't have a plan C as of right now.I want to retire this oneAs a back up marking knife this is ok. This is the one I have been using since I started down the road on my hand tool only journey.
I miss the feel of the wood of the one I fixed.veneer hammer glamour shotsSix coats of shellac on the handles and 8 on the heads.
Still haven't decided whether or not to add wax to it also.glamour shot #2bit of a gapNot only didn't I get a gap on the brass squeegee bar, my handle didn't come out quite as good as the bigger one.

Shop furniture second hand
Garage plans for building permit

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