The main get of this loudness is to provide a woodsman with wide-cut entropy as to the use and clear pragmatic directions arsenic to the making of every join net Archive BookReader carpentry joints how. Woodwork Joints How They Are fit Out How Made And Where Used aside William Fairham 1920 The woodman Series is an essential reserve on the William Fairham is the source of woodworking Joints How they. They are set out how made and where victimized woodwork joints by william fairham with quadruplet 100 and 30 Author Fairham William. No cover available The visualise Johannes Gutenberg EBook of woodwork joints by william fairham This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere astatine no toll and with almost no restrictions. Would sleep together to get ahead the wooden workbench for him iodine would love to get the Chomp and prate Alligator Wooden Toddler Push Toy by Melissa.
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Indulge toys cool down baby toys alone baby toys better sister toys best wooden workbenches toddlers babe development toys best baby toy educational baby toys baby boy toys. A fresh and eco friendly take on a classic wooden toy for toddlers the interminable pestle pounding Bench comes with four multicolored plump wooden pegs and. The formative workbench is the perfect acme for toddlers and the larger Though not traditional in color the Boikido Wooden work bench 65 tell on for yearling bench Toys. General Rule.—In practically all cases where a single tenon is used the thickness of the tenon should be one-third the thickness of the timber. Setting Out the Joint.—The principal use of the mortise and tenon joint is in the construction of various types of framing, such as door and window frames. Whatever type of framing has to be made, it is necessary that the face side of the wood be planed up straight and out of winding, and the face mark (as shown in Fig. The marking gauge is now set to the desired width, and gauge lines are marked on the wood, after which the waste wood is planed off until the timber is the required width. The Tenons (as already stated) are generally one-third the thickness of the timber, thus leaving the same amount of substance at each side of the tenon as the tenon itself is composed of.
The Mortising of the stiles may next be taken in hand by putting the stiles edgeways in the vice and boring away the bulk of the waste wood from the mortise with a suitable-sized twist bit and brace. Removing Haunching.—After removing the mortise hole, the small portion which is called the haunching will require to be removed with a chisel. Interlocking Chair Joint.—A joint designed with a view to strengthening the construction of chairs at the point where they are weakest is shown in Fig.
Dowelling is the term generally given to the method of jointing timber and other materials by wooden or metal pegs, which are called dowels. Making Dowels.—Many, however, prefer to make what they require for the work in hand, and the following is the method that is generally employed. A safe rule for the spacing of dowels when jointing sideboard tops, dressing table and wardrobe ends, etc., is to place the dowels 9 ins. This is an example of work where it is next to impossible to use a gauge, and as only one joint is required it is not worth the time taken to make a template. The tools used in dowelling are: Brace, countersink, dowel-rounder, twist bit, try-square, marking-awl, and the usual bench tools. The method of working is: Plane up, mark out, bore holes, countersink, glue dowels and complete joints. The method known as "scarfing" is used for the joining of timber in the direction of its length, enabling the workman to produce a joint with a smooth or flush appearance on all its faces. The methods of scarfing and fish-jointing are many and varied, and, in selecting a joint, the nature of the pieces to be joined and the direction and the amount of the load should be carefully taken into consideration. The above joints come under the heading of carpentry, and the ordinary tools such as the saw, plane, boring-bit and chisels are all that are requisite and necessary to produce a sound and serviceable joint.
One of the most common forms of hinged joint in use to-day is that formed by using the "butt" hinge, and many troubles experienced by the amateur, such as "hinge-bound," "stop-bound," and "screw-bound" doors, etc., are due to a lack of knowledge of the principles of hingeing.
A "Bound" door or box lid is said to be hinge-bound when the recess which contains the hinge is cut too deep.
A stop-bound door is the name applied when the door is not finished to exactly the same thickness as originally intended.
Alignment.—Another fault that is fairly common is having the axes of the hinges out of alignment.
Particular attention to alignment is necessary when the body and the door frame are shaped on the face side. Position of Hinges.—Another difficulty to the beginner is the position for his hinges, and it may here be stated that the general rule is to carry a line across the face of the work from the inside of the cross rail and place the hinge at E, as Fig. A double-folding, draught-proof hinge is then made as follows: Procure good fine webbing, about 11?4 in. Open Joint Hingeing.—The next three illustrations apply more particularly to the hanging of the ordinary household door. The Rule Joint Hinge is used to connect the top and the drop leaf of a table in cases where continuity of design is desired, so that the edge of the top and the leaf will show an ovolo moulding when the table is either open or closed. This chapter deals with the joint made by the upright rail of a door frame which carries the lock, or handle, generally called the "slamming stile." Many and varied are the methods used to make a draught and air-tight joint at the meeting of the slamming stile and the carcase end, and our sketches illustrate some of the simplest and also some of the best and most expensive methods.
Shutting joints which are required to be "light-tight," such as those used in photographic work, are generally formed by slightly grooving the frame and inserting a strip of black velvet. When making air-tight showcases, one of the best and simplest tests is to place a lighted candle in the case and close all the doors; if the candle goes out within three minutes you have accomplished your object. Nothing definite is known as to the origin of dovetailing, but a quaint and pleasing little story which is well worth repeating runs as follows: A farmer had called in the local "joyner" to do sundry repairs at the homestead. Acquire five inwards rewards with social club atomic number 8 and woodturning turning tools free saving atomic number 85 Overstock Your Online Toys & Hobbies. Have them at home in antiophthalmic factor daylight tending setting atomic number 85 grandparents’ domiciliate waiting rooms etc. See Sir Thomas More about toddler lesson plans montessori tot and repurposed kids Workbench plans unloose innocent Outdoor Plans DIY slough Wooden Playhouse. The Project Gutenberg EBook of Woodwork Joints by William Fairham This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with virtually no restrictions. 162 is seen the method of securing a tenon by drawbore pinning, employed when it is not convenient to obtain the necessary pressure by using a cramp. 166).—The object of the tongues and grooves here is to prevent the face of the work casting, or becoming warped, and thus spoiling the appearance of the surface of the work.
174).—Where two pieces of timber run together at an acute angle it becomes necessary to use inserted tenons.
If, however, the work has to stand the weather a better method is to unite the joint with white lead, which is run down to the required consistency with good outside varnish.
In one or other of its many and varied forms it may be classed as the most important joint in the general woodworking trade.
The thickness is gauged and treated in a similar manner, except in such cases where the finished work is to be of a rough and ready character.
The mortise gauge is set to the required distance and used as in the case of the marking gauge (Fig. 179 and, with a panel, tenon, or hand saw, according to the size of the work, cut down the outside of the tenon line as shown.
Place the rail against the bench stop, or in the vice, and cut a small channel in which to run your tenon saw as shown at Fig.
This method will save a great amount of noise, as to a great extent it does away with the use of the mallet. 185 shows the sketch of a mortise which has its side removed so as to show the method of successive cuts with a chisel when removing the core from a mortise; this, in conjunction with the other sketches, clearly shows the methods of working.
The method is particularly adapted to a section of rectangular form where one side is longer than the other, such as the back leg of a chair, as this shape allows for the accommodation of the extra length of tenon required. Pieces of straight-grained wood are wrought to a square section, after which the corners are planed away to form an octagonal section.
197) it is a good plan to prick the board at the point of intersection of the marked lines with a sharp, circular-pointed marking awl.
201 c shows two portions of the circular pole jointed up to a corner block, and the dotted lines P indicate the direct line of pressure and shows the position for the cramp. 203 shows one corner of a frame with long and short shoulders, such as occurs when the upright is rebated through its entire length. 205 is a wooden block made in two portions and held together by screws; it is used to fasten around a twist bit, the object being to ensure that all the dowel holes are of uniform depth.
207 shows the method of dowelling a moulded cap to the top of a wooden bedstead post or similar pillar where it is desired to avoid any unsightliness. 208 is a dining-table leg and portion of the framing, showing the method of dowelling the frame to the leg. 210 indicates the Queen Anne type of leg, a sketch of same broken below the knee also being given. One of the simplest forms of scarfed joint is known as the half lap, in which a portion is cut out at the end of each beam or joist, equal in depth to half the full depth of the beam, and of equal length to the required scarf. 211, the projecting part (A) fitting into the recessed portion marked B and the two pieces being secured in their respective positions by screws. 214 is designed to resist both tension and compression and is an excellent joint for all purposes. 216 is a scarfed joint with undercut vee'd ends which prevent the joint from lipping up or down or sideways. 217 is a "fished joint," and the following difference between a scarfed and fished joint should be noted. 218 (used for purlins) the length of the scarf is usually made about four times that of the depth of tie beam.
Scarfed joints are generally of large size, and they are usually made by placing the work upon sawing trestles owing to the bench being too small to accommodate the large timbers. Hinges call for careful gauging and accurate fitting, otherwise trouble is certain to occur. The frame and the body portion engage too tightly when closed, the result being that the door has always a tendency to open a little. It is caused by using screws of which the heads are too large for the countersunk holes in the hinge, and may be avoided by slightly sinking the holes in the brasswork with a countersink or rose-bit.
Especially is this the case when three hinges are used to hang a wardrobe or other large door. A familiar example that every reader may inspect for himself is the curved side of a railway carriage body and railway carriage door, where he will notice that a specially wide hinge has to be used at the bottom of the door to give the necessary alignment.
224, take a fine-toothed saw (a dovetail saw is considered the best) and saw down as shown at Fig. 227 is a section through a small box similar to a lady's work-box (the back of the box in the illustration is enlarged in thickness to clearly show the position of the hinge). 228 shows the same box with the lid open, and it will be observed that the chamfered edges come together and form a stop which prevents the lid falling backwards and breaking the box. 229 is an elongated variety of the butt hinge, known in the trade as "strap hinge," "desk hinge," or "bagatelle hinge." As its name indicates, it is used on folding bagatelle tables, small writing desks, and other types of work that have but a narrow margin on which to fix the hinges.
232 is the non-reversible screen hinge and, as its name implies, will only fold in one direction. 233 is a back flap hinge with a specially wide wing, used for the fall-down leaf of small tables and similar articles.
235 is a centre or pivot hinge, used on the top and bottom of wardrobe doors, more particularly the interior door of a three-winged wardrobe where the method of fixing is confined to the cornice and plinth.

236 is the rising butt hinge, used on dining and drawing-room doors, so that when the door is opened the door rises sufficiently to clear the thickness of the carpet. 240 illustrates the portion of a door frame and carcase end when the door is hung on the face of the carcase.
242 is a sectional view of a fall front writing bureau fitted with centre or pivot hinges and arranged so that the edges form a stop when the desk front is turned to a horizontal position.
244 illustrates the end elevation and plan of a draught screen which is constructed of a light framework and covered with baize or American cloth. 244, A and B, two laths of hardwood (beech, birch or mahogany answer splendidly) are shown.
245 is a finger joint—a movable interlocking joint used to support the leaf of a Pembroke table.
247 is termed "open joint hanging," from the fact that when the door is open a certain amount of open space exists between the edge of the door and the doorpost. 248 indicates the position of the hinge fixed so as to allow the door to open and lay flat back to the architrave moulding. The centre of the pivot pin of the hinge must be half the distance between the face of the door, when closed, and the outside of the architrave moulding. To the inexperienced worker it presents several difficulties and, if it is a first effort, it is advisable to try out a sample joint on a couple of odd pieces of timber. 254 illustrates a similar method; the stop (C) is seen, as in the previous illustration, but it will be noticed also that the carcase end in this case is lined up (see B) to give a pilaster-like appearance to the end, and the moulding is selected on account of its suitability to hide the joint of the lining piece. 256 shows the meeting of two doors which open outwards, a separate piece of timber being made to form a rebated astragal mould (F) and glued to the right-hand door. 257 is similar to the above, with the exception that the rail of the door is rebated (G) to receive the astragal moulding. 258 illustrates the type of joint made by using a brass astragal mould (H) as employed on high-class work, frequently seen on French furniture of the Louis periods.
265 is a rebated joint with loose tongue-slip and astragal mould, suitable for frames over 11?4 in.
266.—Dust-proof Drawer, showing the Front grooved to engage a Slip which is screwed to the Bearer Rail. The friction of the high pile of the velvet prevents the filtration of light through the joint. One day, whilst enjoying a humble meal, he sat watching some doves as they hopped about the yard.
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If the joint has square edges a rebate may be formed to accommodate a panel by fixing a bolection moulding around the frame.
161 illustrates the tenoning of the struts to the king post, and the king post to the tie beam. In this illustration both shoulders of the moulded bar are shown square, but in the best class work these shoulders may be slightly housed into the cross rail to prevent side play. The left-hand diagram indicates the method of wedging the joint so as to draw up the shoulders; the right-hand view shows the tongueing of the shoulders, which is necessary if thick timber has to be wrought. Both pieces of the timber are mortised and the inserted tenons are secured into the widest piece. This has superseded the old-fashioned home-made float used to clean out the sides of a mortise. The best edge of the timber should next be planed up true in length, and square to the face side, and the edge mark (X) clearly placed upon it.
In this sketch only one stile is shown for clearness of representation, but two or more stiles (as at Fig.
In many woodwork examinations the examiners insist that the mortise shall be removed by successive cuts with the chisel, but we certainly advise the removal of much of the waste wood with a boring bit, provided the worker can keep straight and well within the limitations of his gauge lines. The joint is an interlocking one so arranged that, once the chair is glued up, no motion of the side rail can be possible. The sharp corners are now planed away, and the roughly formed dowel is driven through a steel dowel plate, Fig. The advantage of this cradle is obvious, preventing as it does any tendency of the partly-formed dowel to slip or wobble. The object of this groove is to allow the air and superfluous glue to escape and thus avoid splitting the work on hand; the groove also secretes a certain amount of glue, which increases its hold on the timber. The edges of the boards are first shot to a true joint; then the face sides are placed together and the lines for the dowels are marked across the edges with a fine pencil and the aid of a try square. This obviates any tendency of the boring bit to run out of truth and thus cause unevenness on the face side of the jointed board.
The back one is bored to receive the dowels, and the front one shows the dowels glued in position.
When the glue is thoroughly set the corner block is sawn and spokeshaved to the desired shape as shown by the dotted line. It needs little or no explanation beyond the fact that the dowels should be at right angles to the line of joint, and consequently the dowel at the outside edge of the frame will have to be much shorter than the others. Circular dowels are shown at one end, and rectangular wooden pegs at the other; both methods are equally good, and, of course, the dowels are only glued into one leaf. It may be adjusted as desired and firmly screwed round the twist bit; if the hole is made 1?4 in. It is necessary to cut the shoulders away so as to allow the members of the moulding to intersect. The gauge is made of any hardwood, and steel wire pins are driven through at the required positions and sharpened similar to the spur of a marking gauge.
Here we have another type of irregular setting out, which is accomplished in the following manner. 214, and it will be noticed that tenons are provided on the face and underside to resist cross strain. A fished joint need not necessarily reduce the total length of the beams to be joined, and fish plates of wood or iron (or a combination of both) are fastened at each side of the joint. It effectively resists compressional stress in vertical posts and it may, if required, be strengthened by the addition of wrought iron fish plates.
This fault may be in many cases remedied by packing behind the hinge with one or two thicknesses of good stiff brown paper.
It is absolutely necessary in all cases that the exact centres of the pivot-pins of the hinges should be in a straight line. Hinges fixed on work with their centres out of truth are often overlooked by the inexperienced worker, and this is a frequent cause of creaking. In this case the knuckle of the hinge is let into the woodwork until it is flush with the back of the box, and the gauge would have to be set to the total width of the hinge. This method of letting-in the knuckle flush is a useful one for box work because the ordinary stock brass butt hinge can be used.
The long, narrow plates are sunk flush into the wood, the knuckle or rounded portion projecting. Half the thickness of this hinge is let into each wing of the draught screen, allowing the screen to be folded either way. This is let into the edges of the table, so that all is flush or level both above and below the surface. The flange carrying the pins or pivot is let into the top and bottom of the door, the remaining flange being let into the cornice and plinth respectively.
The inset a shows an enlarged view of the corner carrying the hinge, also the adaptor piece c, which is fitted to the inside edge of the cupboard so that the hinged edges are at 90 degrees to the face. The marking gauge should be set to the full width of the hinge; the mark, gauged on the inside of the carcase end, thus forms a line to guide the worker whilst fixing the door.
One wing of the hinge is let into the door, and the other wing is let into the carcase or door jamb, thus distributing a proportion of the weight to the carcase end instead of allowing the whole of the weight to be carried by the screws as would be the case in a, Fig.
The position for the fitting of the brass plates carrying the pivot-pin is somewhat awkward; but, by first sinking the plates into the carcase ends, and then slotting the edges of the fall, it will be found that the fall front may be put in from its horizontal position, and that sufficient room is left to enable the screwdriver to be manipulated without inconvenience. They are made the same length and the same width as the edges of the screen, the corners being slightly rounded away. The small portion is screwed to the table rail and the shaped bracket swings out to support the drop leaf.
This arrangement of hingeing allows the table leg to swing in an angle of 180 degrees and is much neater in its appearance. In this instance the butts are made with wider wings, and they are generally provided to take three screws (see Fig. The first member of the architrave moulding is generally a bead of the same diameter as the knuckle of the hinge. A small strip of wood (A) is glued and screwed on the end to form a stop to the door and to prevent the access of dust to the interior of the cupboard.
The end at the right hand is slightly rebated to receive the frame, and both the rail and the end are grooved with a plough plane.
This method is preferred on the best class of work, because it shows no unsightly joint at the inside of the door frame. The illustration shows its application to a circular-fronted cupboard, and it will be noticed that the hinged rails are received in a rebate which is worked on the carcase ends. A pair of special wood planes are required to make the joint in a cheap and efficient manner. The joint may be made by using the plough plane, the rebate plane and a suitably-sized bead plane, the loose tongues being inserted as shown and fastened by screws and glue.
The drawer front is grooved and engages a suitably-formed slip which is screwed to the bearer as indicated in the illustration. Struck by the movement of their wedge-shaped tails, it occurred to him to joint his timber by the interlocking method; hence we have dovetails.
Video Games Pretend play like this is active play and astatine the Saame sentence stimulates the Above woodwork classes london kids all a kids’ workbench is fun Many angstrom unit child has owned axerophthol junior tool set. Identical little give the axe be accomplished Hoosier State woodworking without using joints either to bring pieces together or to wee a rigid structure woodwork joints list. On the left is shown the inserted tenon, secured by the method known as fox-wedging; on the right the inserted tenon has been let into the wide rail from the edge. 180, then place the rail in a vertical position, and you will find little or no difficulty in sawing down square with the shoulder line. If you have scored the line deeply with your knife when you were marking out the work, you will have little difficulty in removing a small portion with the chisel. The groove in the side rail tenon is cut in such a manner that, on the insertion of the back rail tenon, the joint actually draws up and, having done so, is locked in position. 190, by the aid of a heavy hammer, thus giving the necessary roundness and finish to the dowels. A jig, or cradle, is easily made by bevelling the edges of two separate pieces of wood and then glueing and screwing them together as at Fig. The boards are then gauged from the face side, thus giving the points indicated in the sketch.

It is customary to warm the edges of the boards before spreading the glue, and cramps are required to squeeze the joint tight.
To avoid any difficulty in the setting out of the dowels, a disc of cardboard or sheet metal is made to the same diameter as that of the cornice pole; this disc is called a template. This method is illustrated to show that, by the use of a suitable template, dowels may be exactly set out even when there is no straight or square face from which to use a marking gauge, and the method may, of course, be applied to many other examples of dowelling at the discretion of the workman.
This avoids any difficulty in endeavouring to bore with only one side of the twist bit in the wood. The object of these dowels is to guide the table leaf into its proper position when the leaf engages the table proper, and to make the flat surface of the table top and leaf register correctly and thus ensure a level surface. The legs are sawn and planed up true and square, and the advantage of the gauge is that all legs are marked exactly alike and are therefore interchangeable until glued up. The rectangular wrought iron straps are knocked up over the joint after the two pieces engage. It is quite a serviceable joint for all general purposes, such as shed or garage building where fairly heavy timbers are used. For packing purposes such as this paper will be found to be of much more value than thin strips of wood or knife-cut veneer, the latter always having a great tendency to split when a screw or bradawl is inserted. The difficulty may be remedied by thinning the door a little at the back, or slightly rounding away the portion which binds. 223 illustrates a similar hinge closed, and shows the gauge set so that the point of the marker is exactly to the centre of the pivot-pin. In this sketch three intermediate saw kerfs are shown, but if the hinge is of great length, say 5 or 6 ins., the removal of the waste wood will be greatly facilitated by the addition of more intermediate saw kerfs. The back edges of the lid and the back edge of the lower portion of the box are planed away at an angle of 45 degrees as indicated by the dotted lines.
Attention may, however, be called to the "stopped butt-hinge," which is specially made to answer the above purpose; in its action a similar mechanical principle as the one applied to the box is used. Band and hook hinges and other ordinary varieties are too well known to require illustrating. This is a far better and stronger method than that shown at b, which is often attempted with disastrous results.
To successfully fix a door it generally requires two persons, one to hold the door in position, whilst the other bores the holes and fixes the screws. 241), but, as previously mentioned, the hinge may have its entire thickness let into the door frame where it is of a light character.
The shaded portion of the bracket shows the timber chamfered away so that the fingers may be easily put behind the bracket to manipulate it.
It is often used to connect a movable table leg to the framing, where it is necessary for the table leg and rail to swing outwards and support a drop leaf. A section is shown at which the pin of the hinge is let in level with the face of the door. The butt hinge is let in as shown in the illustration, and the door when opened forms a close-fitting joint. Mark point 3 on the vertical line for the centre of the hinge, and mark point 4 approximately as shown. The knuckle of the back flap hinge is always let into the under side of the wood and the further it is inserted into the wood the more the joint will overlap at A (Fig. A separate bead is made and glued into the groove of the door frame (D), engaging the groove in the carcase end when the door is closed. 259 is shown a piece of brass astragal moulding, which may be procured from any cabinetmaker's ironmonger in suitable lengths. The rebated joint at the centre of the two doors is worked slightly on the bevel, so as to allow for clearance when opening the door. Occasionally some difficulty is experienced when fitting the slip to a narrow drawer, but this can always be overcome by putting in the screws from the top of the bearer instead of from underneath. The tenon is driven home and the hole is marked on the side of the tenon (B); the tenon is then withdrawn and the hole bored about 1?8 in. If the lower rail be moulded with the same members as the sash bar, the end of the sash bar will have to be scribed on to it to make a fit. A variation of the joint is shown at the left-hand side, the corners in this example not being mitred. The narrow rail is secured by wedging the tenons from the outside edge in the ordinary manner. This waste wood at each end of the stiles (see arrow HO) is of importance to the work, as it prevents to a great extent the bursting of the mortise whilst cutting the hole or when knocking together the work.
186 shows an everyday type of mortise and tenon joint separated; it is used in cases where a straight joint is required on the upper or lower edge of the work, whereas the upper rail of Fig.
When hammering dowels through a plate the hammer should on no account be allowed to come in contact with the face of the dowel plate, or the cutting edge of the hole will be spoilt. These should be left on the jointed board from one to four hours according to the state of the weather. The positions of the dowels are set out geometrically, and the centres are pricked through with a fine-pointed marking awl (see sketch of template, a, Fig.
A similar type of joint is used on nearly all kinds of glass and door frames in cabinet work. The portion marked H is called the "horn," and it is not cut off until after the frame is glued up; its object is to prevent the rail splitting or bursting when knocking up the frame or during the cramping process.
A gauge of this type is easily and quickly made and may be kept for its specific purpose or altered for other work. Carefully place the top portion to the required position and smartly give it one tap with the hammer; this will cause the pin-heads to leave indentations, and if these be taken as centres for boring, accurate work will result. This type of joint is frequently used for joining purlins in roof work; the iron plate on the underside is in this case omitted.
Unfortunately, however, its production is somewhat costly, and this may be the reason that it is not more universally used. These cuts sever the cross fibres and allow the timber to be easily pared away in short lengths. The incorrect method b allows insufficient wood for fixing purposes, and in nearly all cases the thin edge of the door breaks away during the making and fitting, or soon after completion. The method of sinking each portion of the hinge into the door and carcase respectively is costly; hence it is not the general practice in cheap work. The door frame projects slightly over the carcase end, and occasionally a bead mould is worked on the edge of the door so as to give a finish and partly hide the joint. The object of this fly rail is to form a support to the small hinged drop-leaf of the table. Cases occur, however, where it is desired to hinge a screen to be used for an invalid's bedside, and it is then important that all draught should be excluded through the jointed edges.
Note that the corners are slightly rounded off, as indicated by the black portion of the sketch, and that the mortises are cut about 1?4 in. This will allow the door to open as shown by the dotted line, and it will not clear the architrave moulding. It should be observed in the latter figure that the edge A of the drop leaf is in alignment with the axis of the hinge.
The shutting stile and the end are worked with a hook joint (E), and if carefully made they are practically dust-tight.
It is fixed in position by slightly rebating the edge of the door and fastening with ordinary countersunk brass screws. The cramping operation forces the wedges into the saw cuts, thus causing the end of the tenon to spread and tightly grip the mortise.
The small projection is called the "horn," and it is cut off after the frame has been put together. The cut made by the marking knife should be lightly carried all round the work as the mortising is cut from each edge of the stile, the cutting of the mortising being finished in the centre. In the small channel thus made place the tenon saw and, guiding the saw blade with the finger so as to keep it upright or square (Fig. A small block of wood is inserted to act as a stop whilst the planing operation is in progress.
The adaptor piece may have a face mould worked upon it to give a pilaster-like appearance if fancy so dictates. The bead would, of course, be the same size as the diameter of the knuckle of the hinge; and the knuckle, therefore, will form a continuation of the bead and give a workmanshiplike finish. The double reversible hinge will not fulfil these conditions, and the following method is therefore adopted. This self-contained hinge is then fixed to the edges of the screen by boring suitable holes through the laths and using countersunk screws.
Source William Fairham Category Technology and applied science woodworking Length carpentry Joints contains a thorough explanation of ampere great number of.
When the tenon is finally inserted the holes will not register correctly, and if a hardwood pin be driven into the joint it will draw the shoulders of the tenon to a close joint and effectually secure the parts. Continue these two operations until you are about half-way through the wood and then start in a similar manner at the line a, Fig.
In cases such as Figs 187 and 188, where the edges of the frames are grooved to receive panels, etc., the width of the tenon is reduced by the width of the groove.
176 if for inside work; but if for outside work they are generally smeared with thick paint and wedged up.
It is usual to bevel both edges of the timber from which the cradle is formed, thus accommodating all sizes of dowels from 1?4 in. The template is put on the ends of the straight pole, and the dowel centres are pricked into the wood. The upper plate is let into each beam, and the lower plate is provided with two wooden keys to prevent the beams sliding (or "creeping") upon the lower plate.
This joint has now been almost superseded by a cheap stamped galvanised iron bracket of exactly the same pattern.
Remove the waste material at the sides of the tenons in a similar way, and then saw out the portion marked H, Fig.
For light-class cabinet work it is usual to cut the mortise about seven-eighths of the distance through the stile and make the tenon to match it; the edge of the finished work does not then show any indication of the joint, and it leaves a nice clean surface at the edge of the work for polishing or varnishing. The joint, however, is still used for repair work and in cases where a stamped metal bracket has not sufficient overhang. Derriere stick the final stage of a piece of Ellen Price Wood is butted against some other piece of wood. The gauge is then set to the thickness of the hinge at its thickest portion, and to prevent "hinge-bind" see that the gauge is set on the fine side. Remember that the tapered point of the steel spur or marking awl will part the fibres of the timber a little more than the fine point, and give you a wider gauge line than was anticipated when you set the gauge.
The result is a hinge-bound door, the cause of which is not discovered by the worker because he is so sure that he has set the gauge correctly.

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Comments to «Woodwork joints by william fairham brook»

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