Many woodworkers turn to oil and wax finishes for their first attempt at finishing, and for good reason.
If there is one Achilles’ heel these popular finishes suffer from, it is their lack of durability. Oil is made of molecules small enough to seep down into the wood rather than merely sit on top. To apply an oil finish, flood it onto the wood, adding extra to keep the surface wet in areas where the oil is quickly absorbed. OKAY… I am truly hoping somebody is reading these questions since the last one was posted many months ago… I need help!!!!
It will be difficult to make the surface even in colour if the spill was just in one place. It is okay to cover the Danish Oil with polyurethane, particularly on kitchen cabinets, correct?
Don’t forget to wear gloves, mask and eye protection and keep the kitchen well ventilated.
If you have children its advised that you put plastic up in the kitchen doorways to create a bubble around the room.
I’m putting tung oil on a sycamore log and noticing that the end grain is soaking up the first coat like a sponge, (first coat was a half and half mix of pure tung oil and turpentine) with that mix, should i saturate the end grain multiple times until it stops taking the thinned oil?
Can you please tell me, if I were to use Danish oil on internal hardwood stair railings, would I be able to at a later date varnish over them? I just did a minwax finishing wax finish on my table, it was on old dry wood, I feel like the table is so dry it is just absorbing the wax and I may need to do at least a 3rd coat of wax, it’s getting water rings and is not repelling water, any recommendation on a different or better wax? He is single and owns his own home, not pets, no kids… point being that these will not be subject to a ton of wear and tear for the next few years at least. Just linseed without wax will always require maintenance and re-application a couple times a year, with occasional sanding to boot. I’ve bought a solid oak worktop and tried oiling it with a solvent free oil from ikea. Being new to wood finishing and having never used Danish oil before, I don’t know if all of the warning labels are just to cover their back or if there is something to it? Hi I came across a really beautiful piece (slab) of Sissoo Rosewood I want to hang it on the wall as it is so big and natural.
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They are easy to apply, give almost foolproof results, require no applicators beyond a rag and leave wood looking both rich and natural.
You would probably not choose a simple oil or wax finish for a bar top or kitchen table that will be assaulted with scratches, hot coffeepots or strong solvents, but they are perfect for bookcases, jewelry boxes, turnings, picture frames, blanket chests and a host of similar objects.
Virtually all waxes will dissolve in mineral spirits or naphtha, which is handy to know should you ever need to remove wax, either from wood or on top of a finish. As a result, oil makes wood look richer and more translucent without adding a film on the surface. The oil helps bring out wood’s beauty, while the varnish resin offers somewhat more protection against chemicals, heat, scratches and stains than either oil or wax. The formulation I saw at the store is tung oil, linseed oil, methylcellulose, lead free drying agent, plant-based emulsifier, water. I sanded everything down, applied two light coats of an espresso stain, and then two coats of boiled linseed oil (without any sanding). However, it is sticky to touch and the old dirty finger marks weren’t cleaned off first. Turners especially love them because they adapt perfectly to finishing wood still turning on the lathe. While a wax finish can go on any type of wood, avoid putting oil (or Danish oil) on aromatic cedar or any of the dalbergia woods (rosewood, cocobolo, tulipwood). Some waxes are softer, some are harder, but even the hardest waxes are softer than lacquers and varnishes.
Most waxes melt at very low temperatures, so they don’t offer much in the way of heat resistance. For a smoother, richer finish, repeat the process, this time sanding the oily wood with fine wet-and-dry sandpaper.
Then after a day or two use pure turpentine to leach out as much as possible with plenty of dry rags.
I do have a can of Danish oil but due to bad weather outside and crappy ventilation inside(plus a wife that suffers with asthma) I don’t know if Danish oil would be advisable. The fact that they are soft means they offer very little protection against scratches and wear.

This will create a slurry of oil and wood dust, filling tiny pores and leaving the surface even smoother. After a few more days drying it should then take a thin clear poly or preferably danish oil finish – one very thin coat per day.
Make sure you are using oil based polyurethane because the water based junk won’t cure well over the Danish oil. You can apply wax over any other finish and it will give the surface a soft sheen and smooth feel, but don’t put other finishes over wax.
Nut oils (boiled linseed, tung, etc.) are drying oils, but vegetable (peanut, olive) and mineral oils are non-drying. The directions on the can are excellent: Apply it liberally to the wood, let it soak in for 15 minutes, reapply, then wipe off the surface. My concern with the wax layer is that it will not maintain the really natural look I’m going for. They will prevent it from oxidizing (turning gray) but don’t particularly enhance the wood. A Scotchbrite™ pad or fine steel wool makes a good applicator; then wipe with paper shop towels. However, non-drying oils stay wet indefinitely, and they will wash off when the board is scrubbed with soap and water. Use Watco either as a one-coat penetrating finish, or to add as many subsequent coats as you like. I use a palm sized car buffer to polish the surface to a shine and remove any extra wax from the surface.
In other words, once a coat of clear wax dries on the wood, it will look like freshly cut, but unfinished, wood.
Because they do not dry to a solid film, non-drying oils are considered a wood treatment, but not a finish. Applied no more than one coat per day, you can build up a finish as thick, beautiful, and durable as varnish, with no brushes to clean or brush marks to rub out. The good news is that a multi-coat Watco finish is durable enough for most anything you make, even kitchen cabinets or a dining room table. Tung oil dries a little bit faster than linseed oil, and sometimes it is modified to cure even more quickly.

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