I used European steamed beech for the legs and aprons because of its light colour and calm grain pattern.
I planned my tabletop using coloured markers to draw rows on graph paper, then scissors to cut the drawing “across the grain” into evenly spaced strips. Complement the end-grain tabletop pattern with chamfers on the edges that come to a point at the corners.
The same techniques used to build this end-grain coffee table work for making butcher blocks and end-grain cutting boards. Joint and plane strips for the tabletop, then glue them together to create the initial long-grain slab.
After clamping the long-grain strips together, remove the squeeze-out with a putty knife before the glue has a chance to harden. Due to the end-grain slab’s length, it is hard to bring all the sawn strips together so they’re level for gluing.
This sample slab has dowels aligning the end-grain rows, which means you only need clamps on the ends when you set this glue-up.
As with this sample slab, a belt sander is the best tool for levelling the end-grain tabletop. This jig is a sled that travels back and forth across two level beams, allowing a handheld router to mill a surface flat. For maximum protection and to limit wood movement, I applied 10 coats of oil-based varnish. You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. I wanted to make my own feet for the furniture that i make.I can make custom feet instead of buying something from a catalog.
Before you pick up those woodworking tools, take the time to ensure your safety in the shop! If you are selling your work, then you have entered a woodworking dimension with added complexity and stress.
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Some sources say you should stay away from certain species, such as walnut and rosewood, while others use all kinds of exotic species in their cutting boards. The thickness of the long-grain glue-up will determine the width of each row in the final end-grain tabletop.

These strips will then be turned end-grain up, with every other strip flipped end over end to create the final tabletop pattern. Transfer those lines down the faces of each joint with a square, then set up a fence on the drillpress to locate the dowel holes. Test-fit all strips with dowels but do not glue.If all parts come together properly, take them apart, place dowels in the holes in advance and put glue on the opposite side of each strip. Sand until all defects are gone, whether they be glue splotches or small areas torn out by the router. If you want to incorporate an inlay detail into the aprons, it’s easier to cut the rabbet and glue the inlay now, before cutting to length. The router is fastened to the sled, and the whole thing needs to be long enough to bridge from beam to beam while still allowing the router bit to travel across the entire width of the tabletop.
The side panels are quite wide (8″) because they provide all the vertical stiffness to the jig.
You’ll have to remove the router’s baseplate and use screws to hold the router’s base to the platform. You also need to prepare the tabletop slab so that you can attach it to the base in a manner that will let the tabletop expand and contract as it needs to.
I prefer to glue up the long aprons to each pair of legs first, and then glue the two halves of the base assembly together with the short aprons the next day. Remember that these clips should be positioned only midway into the grooves to allow for wood expansion. While the inlay might seem quite thin to push across a router table, it can be done safely with a couple of featherboards to hold the stock down on the table and against the fence.
It’s easier to glue the inlay strip while it is extra-long and then cut the apron to final length afterwards, cutting through both apron and inlay at the same time. With your router and this handy, easy-to-use jig, you'll be able to make picture frames, mirrors, signs, tabletops and more in just a matter of minutes.
A variety of colours provides a nice contrast, but don’t just think about colours when choosing wood; visual textures and grain patterns matter too.
Strips of wood are glued together in the usual way, along their edges, with the subsequent laminations cut, rotated and glued together again with the end-grain pointing upward.
Research the issues yourself and do what you feel comfortable with after reading up on the possible risks.
It does take several days for each coat to harden, but walnut oil can take weeks and mineral oil never cures at all.

To calculate the length of the long-grain strips you’ll need, multiply the rough thickness of the end-grain tabletop you want by the number of end-grain rows needed for the desired tabletop length.
Since the edges being glued are long-grain surfaces, the dowels don’t need to be glued in; the joint will be strong enough on its own.
You can spread glue on all of the strips at the same time using a thick-nap paint roller, which will roll right over the dowel holes without depositing glue in them. But if opposite corners of the slab wobble up and down on a flat surface, or if there are step-shaped mismatches between end-grain strips, you’ll have significant wood to remove. A belt sander with a sanding frame to keep it from tipping or gouging is an excellent alternative. You then have to sand with the next grit higher until all scratches left by the last grit are gone and replaced with a new, finer scratch pattern. A generous film finish gives some scratch protection while also bringing out the different colours of the wood. While the tabletop is a lot of work, the final pattern is incredible and makes people think that you actually glued each piece individually.
The paper process allowed me to alternate strips to see the actual pattern I would achieve. Moreover, you have to account for the many saw cuts needed to turn the long-grain slab into end-grain rows.
The dowels are only for alignment, saving you a ton of work in having to level the end-grain slab later. 5-year former Resident of Flux Factory, co-organizer for World Maker Faire (NYC), and blogger all over the net.
As you move the router through the cut, the jig's sliding dovetail mechanism keeps the router precisely on the cut line. Included featherboard kit holds stock firmly to the table for added safety, precision and repeatability.

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