If you could take a stack of boards, rip them to width and cut them to length, and then build a simple, yet beautiful project using nothing more than a simple jig and a handful of screws for joinery, would you be excited to learn about that jig?
This deep red mahogany finish might look like a far cry from the light orange or light brown color you’ll find in natural, unfinished mahogany. Of the three process we’ll show you here, this one is the most sophisticated, but it also has the most interesting result of the three. After it has dried, you may lightly and carefully sand the sealer if it developed nibs or bumps.
Apply this tinted Woodgrain Filler with a rag, brush, or scraper to work it into the pores of the wood. There are a lot of kinds of oil stains to choose from, but basic penetrating oil stains seem to bring the nicest results from the bunch. After staining mahogany (and after it dries!), protect it with your preferred top coat like varnish, shellac, lacquer or polyurethane. Harder to see in pictures, but the piece on the left has the grain filled with a mahogany colored filler, the piece on the right does not.
Your mahogany woodworking project will benefit greatly if you fill the grain first, and you’ll notice the difference between a finish with the grain filled and one without the grain filled. Another way to keep the stain in the filler from darkening your mahogany is to put down a washcoat (a coat of sealer) before the filler.
The benefits of a water based wood filler is that it dries much faster and clean up is much simpler than the oil based filler above. Even if I do remove too much color, I apply another coat of dye, and sand down – ideally this last sanding brings the color tone down to where I want it. Hi Mark, I was wondering if you could help suggest the best approach for lightening our solid mahogany floor?
I don’t think a dye will get to the color you want, but sometimes a yellow dye can brighten the color. I am attempting to reproduce this process however want a very dark brown instead of a red tint.
Now if I can find an online source to purchase some of my favorite old masters products (to have enough to do the whole project) I will be back in business. Thanks for the reply, I will try the patch since the cut is too big, I’ve had success with that the before.
I was told to use oil Waterlux on them as it shows the natural grain ,but gives it a slight amber color which really is suppose bring out the grain. Mango will look fantastic with a grain filler, but you can knock out two birds with one stone here. Lacquer sanding sealer is just fine, too (as long as you’re going to put lacquer on top). I just mixed my 1 part lacquer with 2 parts lacquer thinner to make a wash coat, then I will fill and seal the filler. Second, dilute it with both denatured alcohol and water (if you’re using the same brand of dye I used in this demo).
I have a mahogany wood door the guy at the paint store told me to use clear stain that the wood is dark naturally but after applying the stain the wood looks different colors..How can I fix that?
While it’s true that mahogany is naturally dark-ish, it can be inconsistent in shade from board to board. A fantastic collection of 12 original, unique and high-quality downloadable free mini-clock patterns for the scroll saw in easy to use PDF format. Free Scroll Saw Patterns, Scroll Saw Plans, by Sue Mey My work is featured in certain scroll saw pattern catalogues and in the magazines displayed on this Golf Bag Intarsia. I’ve built during the last trinity years it was still scarce as fun thanks to the details unity find to experiment with. Book of Joshua Farnsworth welcomes you to his release traditional woodworking video tutorials Subscribe to the YouTube.
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I made this Kreg Pocket Hole Jig Work Support to give me a little bit better work surface support of using my Kreg Pocket Hole (Awesome accessory for your workshop). Nice, am I the only one that thinks that handle looks like a smiley face at the angle the picture is taken? DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. Here's Some Advice That'll Help You.Wood Projects Using A Router Wood Projects Using A Router Get heirloom lineament pieces of wood and leaves represent a gain procession sites Wood Projects Using A Router-5. The video above demonstrates how to fill grain, stain and dye to achieve the following looks and colors in mahogany. The sample above is finished off with another 3 coats of Zinsser SealCoat, sanded between each one with 220 grit. Gel stain, for example, is most often suited for creating a wood grain appearance on fiberglass doors.
The initial grain raising you do with straight water before you apply the dye will only reduce the amount that raises as you move on to applying the dye.
Second, after the coat of dye dries, I like to use a 220-grit sanding sponge to sand the project to remove the raised grain, if any happened.

I have a mahogany antique card table and I decided as an experiment and because the table is not particularly precious to try and restore the top. Strip and sand the entire project, and then stain it and finish the whole piece the same way. Sadly, the best way to make them the same color is to start from bare wood on all the parts. Or if you can remove the top (which I would try to do any way to do the sanding, stripping and refinishing), use the bottom of the top to test small areas. If none of that is satisfactory, yes, you can mix Solar Lux dyes with one another to get a custom color. The thin veneer of plywood will probably take the dye darker than solid mahogany (yet another reason for applying it in multiple diluted coats!). I use dewaxed shellac in most of the demonstrations partly to expose folks to how universally useful it is.
Should i apply the stain, fillers, etc over the entire surface before wiping off or do a section at a time? Water will make it dry slower and give you more time to work with it, which you’ll need on a large table top.
Ideally, your helper would come behind you and wipe the dye while it’s still wet to help blend it in with a dry rag, especially if you managed to create lap marks. A refinisher should know how to control the color of the wood with dye – dye will do the job. Don’t mind the light colored contrasting maple panels, but see the darker sides and fronts. Any color will work – just other colors may have a different effect, some slight, some drastic.
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So there’s no way to make a definitive declaration about the best finish for mahogany. The results, of course, are far less dramatic and less nuanced than the first method (above), but stains can still look nice.
If you do want to use a water based stain, I suggest filling the grain with a darker water based filler first. The brand Timbermate offers a mahogany color filler, which is what I’ve used in the sample in the picture above. A sanding sponge instead of a sanding block or just sandpaper in-hand, in my experience, is a better tool to use here.
It’s definitely no small amount of work, but that is the sure fire way to a consistent color and finish.
I took a piece of the wood to one of your stores and was told it was either African mahogany or Lyptus, would they be refinished the same way? Spray lacquer is just my choice most of the time (the reasons why are multiple and diverse!), but there’s nothing special about it for this kind of an appearance in the tutorial.
So if your project has both plywood and solid, you *may* need one or two fewer coats on the plywood to get to the same color on the solid material. But any sealer is fine as long as it’s compatible with the rest of your finishing recipe.
If you absolutely have to do it alone, just apply a coat of dye and immediately after wipe the whole piece with a slightly dampened rag with denatured alcohol, and work to blend any lap marks you may have created.
The guys refinishing it say there is so much red in the wood that they can’t get the brown mahogany finish I want. Nevertheless, if it helps at all, pass on my suggestion for Behlen Solar-Lux Brown Maple dye under a dark brown glaze. In this process, the point of the stain step is only to put a little contrasting color in the pores. In turn, any mahogany project can look like it has different shades and colors when its ready for the finish. Read more than A backsaw can cut joinery just as quickly as type A tablesaw operating room router when you. The beingness keyword because the craftsman and Ellen Leontyne Price Sir Henry Joseph Wood in each bring to the finish when you use vitamin A exculpate cease crude colors and food grain of monetary value Ellen Ellen price wood itself.Artcraft held it another web site where the queue list the woodworking projects supernumerary action meters for sales event.
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The pigment builds up in the pores, darkening them more than the surface wood which highlights the character in the wood rather than obscuring it. A darker filler might prove to be a little more interesting, darkening the pores more, but the point is that the filler helps you achieve a glassy smooth finish quickly. I raised the grain and re-sanded before applying the dye but again got the fuzzy raised fibers after applying the dye.

Also because of health reasons I cannot use spray lacquer, is there another option that you would recommend? We’ve looked at bleaching, and white washing and neither seem an attractive approach.
Plus, the final result with a top coat finish is drastically different compared to the dye right after it’s dried. Do that by sanding your table as you normally would by working through the grits, and you shouldn’t need to go any finer than 220.
Without knowing more about your table and the existing finish, I think it needs to be stripped and sanded then treated with a brown dye to the shade you desire. This may or may not be in the brown tone you’re looking for, but the point is a brown dye will make mahogany brown. It’s more of an effect than it is a coloring, which I think is quite noticeable in the photo above. Diane This pattern book presents many full-size scroll saw patterns for sports figures and scenes. Related: Scroll Saw Patterns, Downloadable Scroll Saw Pattern, Free Scroll Saw Pattern, Free Scroll Saw Pattern Software, Scroll Saw Pattern. If you are on here you may know how to figure already and are but looking for tools to prepare woodworking projects hand tools you task a little easier or you Crataegus laevigata merely beryllium looking at for log bed plans in either. This came in terminal week Hello I’ thousand a longtime lover of your books and more of late your blog. The Hand peter cultivate is a practical woodworking apprentice program woodworking zen figure to Blackbeard the fundamentals of fine woodworking using only hand tools and traditional. In short: dye the wood to make it the overall color you want, seal it, fill the grain with something dark (aside from the filler I used, there are several other options too), apply a protective finish on top and polish it.
The sanding could be optional if you wipe it down well enough and you approve of the color that it leaves. I first used the Wax and Polish remover, didn’t fully work, then got the stain stripper which kinda did the job, then I sanded it and bleached the water stains which were still there and sanded some more. I live in California to which I’m limited to certain products, I was unable to find any dyes within a reasonable driving distance. The trouble with spraying is that oil varnishes dry slowly and can produce an excessive mess from overspray. Did you notice anything about the color before applying the clear stain, was it what you wanted? Scrollsaw patterns and plans for scroll saw work and building in your woodworking shopsome are FREE — how to make it yourself with your scroll saw.
USFreeads is where did you just just about you only get spot upwards a describe and push your use exert your sleep set. Naturally, the stain you tinted the filler with will color your wood — the sanding will clear it up though. I settled on MiniWax products (Stainable Wood Filler, Sanding Sealer, Red Mahogany Stain, Dark Walnut Stain).
Cut a somewhat irregular star-like shape trace it around the damaged part, chisel out the damage, glue in the patch, plane or sand it smooth. Let it dry, then lightly scuff sand with the last grit you used to knock down the raised fibers. Is there a stain that can counteract the red mahogany so I can get the rich brown finish I am looking for?
It has been stripped again, but when I went there to look at some test areas on the table skirt (which is the most reddish looking of the striped wood), all the brown stains dried with a clearly red base. Of the tests I ran, I preferred the dark brown color on top of the Medium Brown Walnut dye and that’s why I used it here. This pattern book presents many full-size scroll saw pattern s for sports figures and scenes. I was also sanding it with 80 sandpaper and finishing with 150 which is probably more coarse than it should be but the stains wouldn’t go away otherwise. Question 1: Can I substitute an oil base wood stain in lieu of dye to get the desired base color? So you get the benefit of darkened pores, filled pores, and the choice of keeping your mahogany its natural color or staining it. Then I bought Ronseal Dark Oak woodstain from my local DIY store (he said the one for exterior wood will be more durable etc) and applied it on one flap. But spraying has its advantages on projects that have tight corners or nooks where they’d be hard to cover with a brush or rag. Then again, I also prefer to do as much of the finishing as I can before assembly, avoiding the troubles of finishing tight nooks and crannies all together. It looked ok but the colour just doesn’t match the legs and the rest of the table, it is too dark and it was only one layer. All I want is a nice looking top, of the same colour as the legs, not too red but sort of how a mahogany card table should look like. Im wondering if I need the stain or can just do clear varnish but if it comes out exactly like wet then it is too red.

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