I cut scraps of Baltic birch plywood to the dimensions shown for the jig's base and sliding L-shape guide. For more in-depth information on routing, visit the Routing Techniques section in the WOOD Store. RE:On this jig I think the biggest challenge is to get the upper piece aligned parallel to the router fence.
The one I made in spring is identical except that I added a T-slot and put adjustable stops either side of the workpiece.
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Plus a plowed surface for the balusters on the bottom surface, which I'll do with a dado blade. Lot's of different things going on with this, so the question is what should be the sequence of cutting?
My plan is to route the curved upper surface first (rail upside down on the table), then the side profiles (rail right side up) and lastly the plowed lower surface on the TS. GENE: Would it make a diference to do the bottom plow first while the work piece is all square?
I might do the bottom groove first as well, but not sure what the complications could be otherwise.
I thought about doing that, but it seemed to me that centering might become an issue if I did the plow first. You might also have a 1-2 foot sample that you can run through to check the cut before you commit to your long work. FWW did an article on using shims so you can take multiple passes to make sure the profile is the same and reduce burning without having to reset your fence for each pass.

In your case, take "heavy" cut to each side of blank, remove thickest shim, take "not so heavy" cut to each side of blank, remove next thickest shim, take "light" cut from each side, remove last shim, take final cut from each side using just the fence.
If you do it like this, you should be able to plow the trough first and still have it centered when you're done.
I think if you installed shims on the outfeed side they would also help reduce the potential for rocking. To make the jig adjustable, I cut two slots in the guide and attached it to the base with knobs screwed into threaded inserts in the base. Relying just on the clamp for a narrow workpiece may be risky as there is not much in such a short contact area to brace it.
I routed the front edge of the base, as shown, to clear the bit; I then set up the appropriate bit and a zero-clearance fence on the router table to machine the knobs.

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