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So the other day I received an e-mail asking if it is feasible to make a pegboard top and dogs to fit it. I used some concrete blocks and an old radio transformer to hold down the center section while the glue is drying. The base provides two functions, it raises the top off the work area so the dogs and Rail Dogs can go through the holes in both layers and it provides a reminder of how deep to adjust the plunge saw to. If the item comes direct from a manufacturer, it may be delivered in non-retail packaging, such as a plain or unprinted box or plastic bag. If these dates cannot be met for any reason we will try to keep you informed of any delays and when you can expect delivery. Provided that this notice is given we will arrange to collect, replace, and repair or refund the goods free of charge.
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I still have enough pegboard to make another one but I'm waiting to see what other ideas come up. I was wondering what holes in the square dowels and then it hit me, Those are magic marker dots so I know where the cross members. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. Whilst we make every effort to keep to stated delivery times we cannot be held liable for any losses or costs incurred as a result of a failure to meet estimated delivery dates and times. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount.


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The smooth face will be placed outside and the rough side will face each other when assembled. If you few or no clamps, you can use the bolts and fender washers to apply pressure and act as your clamps. It came in handy when assembling the top pegboard but is also useful to make sure you don't line up the saw with the cross members. Usually the big box stores have some precut pegboard and you might be able to save some money buying them. My first one was slightly warped and after cutting it in half, I couldn't get holes to line up. Not only will it help you know where to clamp when the top is on but it will keep you from placing the saw kerf on top of a cross frame member. Use the bolts from above in each of the corners and test the hole alignment (the long bolts should be standing straight up and not angled, use a small machinist square to check). I counted 6 columns of holes and the add a square dowel to go between the 6th and 7th column. You can do a lap joint (but the boards against one another), a miter joint, drawer lock joint, or even dovetails. You could do the same thing with any guide or straight edge or the Festool guide rail (no need to use the groove under the rail).
To keep the pegboard from sagging, the square dowels should be placed every 6" and parallel to where the saw will be cutting. I like to have my final cuts go right through a row of holes, this assures they are straight and square. If you have the store cut yours, put a mark near that cut so you identify it later when trying to align the holes.
Right now you can clean up any squeeze-out but when you glue the top pegboard on, you won't be able to clean up. I'm sure most people will say you need the clamps closer together but we don't need much strength from the glue.



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