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Garden railway viaduct knaresborough,7mm model railway society of,model railway flemington nj vw - For Begninners

NEW MEMBER ACCOUNT ACTIVATION E-MAIL:If you have recently registered on the forum and have not yet received a confirmation email containing your activation link, may I first suggest that you check your email SPAM folder. Here, members can publish completed articles or how-to guidesPLEASE DO NOT USE THIS SECTION FOR GENERAL POSTINGS! A STONE BUILT OO GAUGE GARDEN RAILWAY VIADUCTFOR LESS THAN THE COST OF A DECENT WAGON!by MICK NORFOLKFor me one of the most fascinating aspects of model railways are the civil engineering structures such as bridges and viaducts.
Hi MickJust a simply brilliant idea I've just moved house and my layout is going into an insulated outdoor building and I hit on the idea of extending the track it into the garden but it meant building a single track viaduct to span a 16ft lower flower bed to enable it to then loop round on a second raised bed returning back in to the building 'but had no idea off how to do it and my was initial thought was to do exactly as you did and build one out of wood but the maintenance of it was putting me off then bingo I found your article I have two questions for you, how is the track fastened to the blocks and what have you done about wiring to prevent voltage drop. Hi Bob and welcome to the forum.That's really great - I would love to see these viaducts springing up on garden layouts all over the country!I should perhaps mention the blocks upon which the track is positioned.
Try RateSetter, a P2P lender offering savers rates of up to 6.1% and earn an extra ?25 as a welcome bonus! On an indoor layout these are typically constructed of card or other lightweight materials over a wooden framework or former and are often finished to a high level of detail. It wasn't my original intention to use the packing blocks - it was just that I hadn't thought it all through properly beforehand and suddenly realised I was too low, hence the need to raise the level of the track bed slightly. However, for an outdoor layout we need something much more resilient from which to build our structure, something that can withstand the rigours of extreme weather, and in my opinion one of the most durable and visually realistic products we can use is stone, or more accurately, a standard lightweight building block.An outdoor layout isn't normally finished to the same high level of detail that we have come to expect from a similar layout housed indoors and so construction techniques are often quite different. However, thinking about it now the blocks do afford better drainage via the drainage holes and there's never any standing water on the viaduct. I would imagine there are very few indoor models constructed using a mixture of sand and cement, certainly none that would be easily transportable, but such materials are the minimum requirement for extended outdoor use.Although the technique mentioned here would be equally suited to the construction of a variety of bridges, for the purpose of this article we will be concentrating on the construction of a stone viaduct. However, before we take a look at just what's involved it may be of interest to look back at my earlier attempt at making an OO gauge model railway viaduct from plywood so that you can understand why I would now highly recommend the use of stone.Sounding much like the title to a classic song, back in the summer of 2009 I finally realised my ambition of one day being able to construct a large model railway layout and from the outset I had decided that the layout, to be located by necessity outdoors, had to incorporate a viaduct.
The track was temporarily pinned to the blocks using standard track pins before being ballasted using Gaugemaster real stone ballast fixed using floor polish as adhesive. I had never built a model railway before but decided that the viaduct itself would be constructed from exterior grade plywood.

A layer of roofing felt, fastened in place with bitumen adhesive, was laid along the packing blocks as it provides a better surface for the floor polish to adhere to IMO. The photograph below shows that particular viaduct under construction despite the fact that it appears to be more in a state of demolition.As you can see from the above photo, the main structure of the viaduct was constructed from 9mm exterior grade plywood with the arches cut out using an electric jigsaw. One year on and everything is as good and firm as it was when originally built.I've wired all sections of my track, including that across the viaduct, using the busbar method. Plywood spacers joined the two sides together creating the inner arch walls and short sections of plastic guttering formed the curved roof of the individual arches. The viaduct was constructed in two separate sections, the longer section consisting of 11 arches and the smaller section with just 5. A short over-bridge, designed to resemble that spanning a waterway, connected the two sections together into one long structure with an overall length of 10 feet 6 inches. The full extent of the viaduct can be seen in the following photograph, again taken whilst still under construction.In an effort to make the viaduct look more realistic and in order to help protect it from the weather, I decided to cover the facing side of the plywood with a thinly applied coat of exterior grade Polyfilla. This was done with limited success but while I was happy with my first attempt it was clear the the plywood structure would be susceptible to the rain and so whenever the layout wasn't in use the viaduct itself was covered by a large tarpaulin to prevent the track bed becoming waterlogged. The final photograph shows the Polyfilla covering I applied to the plywood sides which did give the effect of the stone structure I was looking for but also highlights my rather crude attempt at adding a girder bridge across the central span.Rather abruptly, an unforeseen house move meant that the entire layout had to be dismantled before it ever reached completion and the plywood viaduct itself was consigned unceremoniously to the local recycling depot.
The good news was that the move of home enabled me to begin the construction of a new outdoor OO gauge layout, one that would again include a viaduct, but with previous experiences to hand it was decided this time to build in a more robust material.My first thoughts for a new viaduct were that it might be possible to cast one completely in concrete. I've seen descriptions of structures made that way before using wooden shuttering to constrain the concrete mixture and polystyrene block formers for the arches which are later removed once the concrete has set sufficiently but it seemed like a lot of work with no guarantee of a perfect finish. The track base required raising just a few inches off the ground and concrete foundations to such depth would have looked unsightly and so following that member's advice I purchased several lightweight Celcon aerated blocks which were described as being suitable for outdoor use. I hadn't realised just how lightweight those blocks actually were, or how easily they could be cut using just an old saw. It was then that I had the idea of using this type of building block to construct my new viaduct.

The central section of each block would form a viaduct pillar and a narrow section from the lower two-thirds part of each edge would be cut out to create an half-arched shape leaving the cut block resembling the letter 'T'. The photograph below indicates where those cuts were to be made:As already mentioned, the blocks can be cut with very little effort using an old handsaw but that's just my personal tool of choice and I would imagine that most other types of saw would be equally suitable.
A straight cut is made with the saw from the base of the block up to the line previously marked some two-thirds of the way up the block before an angled cut is made from the edge of the block to the recently cut line enabling the edge section of the block to be completely removed.
You should eventually end up with something like this:The 2 edge sections can be put to one side - you might find a use for them later.
Once you've completed a few more blocks and placed them side by side you'll find you have something that's just beginning to resemble a viaduct type structure.Okay, it's not quite a viaduct just yet but I'm sure you can see we're getting somewhere. How you progress from here is a matter of personal preference but I'll describe the way I chose and leave you to decide what's best for yourself.In a similar way to building a brick or block wall stand the cut and shaped block on end and cement the next block up to it. If your ground is soft then you may need to add a shallow concrete footing to prevent later ground movement disturbing your viaduct but because my ground was very rocky I simply added a good layer of mortar around the base of the pillars to secure them in place. You may find that one of the modern contact adhesives is sufficient to hold the blocks securely together at the top but in this instance I chose to mortar them in position.As you can see above, the first 5 blocks have been cemented in place with a narrow mortar gap between them whilst one full block on edge simply prevents any sideways movement until they have thoroughly dried. The more blocks you cement together the more impressive your viaduct begins to look, especially from the more unusual viewing angles.To improve the appearance of the flat top of the viaduct I cut small individual sections of aerated block and glued them in place to create a narrow overhanging ledge and rising sidewalls. These can be seen in the above photograph before being easily shaped using nothing more than a sheet of sandpaper.To prevent the top of the viaduct becoming waterlogged, drainage holes were drilled at an angle downwards through the top of the viaduct so that they emerged on the sidewalls above each viaduct pillar. Once completed the whole viaduct was then treated with a water repellent solution suitable for application to bricks and blocks in order to limit water ingress.

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