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Instead of trying to exactly duplicate an actual raceway, it's easier to select just a few key elements found at most raceways.
Before permanently mounting the track on the table, I raced on this circuit for several weeks to make sure it was exactly what I wanted.
The track inventory below lists the Tomy AFX track sections required to build this 4×8 foot layout. I started with a Tomy AFX Super International Race Set and then added the extra track required to build this layout. With a raceway layout decided upon, the first task involves gluing and soldering the metal power rails.
The metal power rails can easily be soldered if you apply a dab of soldering flux to the rail joints before attempting to solder them. At this point you should have a complete 2-lane turn or straight assembly that is ready to be cleaned and sanded. At this point you should have a dozen or more glued and soldered track sub-assemblies that can now be joined on the table. Anyone who has ever built and mounted a Tomy AFX 4-lane raceway will tell you that the inner and outer 2-lane plastic track sections do not fit together properly. Once all of the track sections have been joined on the table it's time to actually fasten them to the tabletop. The picture above shows the track with the elevated bridge section towards the far end of the table. The picture below shows 1×4 lumber, also laid on its side to form the ramp leading up to the bridge section. The sides of the evaluated portion of the track can now be enclosed to hide the plywood bridge and its supports.
The Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive used to secure the retaining walls to the bridge supports will take a full 24 hours to cure and harden. Listed below are the lumber, fasteners and supplies needed to secure the track to the tabletop and to build the elevated bridge section for this layout.
The next phase of construction involves filling the gap between the 2-lane track sections described earlier, as well as the track mounting screws.


I tried glossy and satin finish paints first but they did not look very attractive and were too slick for rubber and silicone tires.
The picture above shows the lower portion of the track that has been filled, sanded and painted. The picture above shows the edge of the track painted the same Hunter Green color as the table. The end result is a very attractive striped curb that is the same height as the actual track surface. The picture below illustrates my HO Turn Borders with FISA Curbing Tape applied instead of painting them. If you would prefer to not have to paint your track aprons then my FISA Curb Tape Kit is an ideal alternative. For this layout I choose to glue all of the track section joints and then solder the metal power rails for a smooth running, continuous rail track.For added visual appeal I decided upon a 4-lane raceway with an overpass. Once the track joints are glued and the power rails are soldered together it would be impossible to make any changes.The short straight located towards the center of the table will be used for the pit access road and garage complex. I use Formula 409 Degreaser and Cleaner sprayed on a lint-free rag to clean the remaining flux from the track surface.After cleaning the entire track surface use a piece of Medium Grit 3M Emory Cloth wrapped around a small block of wood and sand the metal rail joints.
The remaining joints that connect the turns with the straights will need to be glued and soldered on the table to complete the assembly process.Finish up by sanding the few remaining rail joints to complete this phase of the track building process.
This support is also positioned directly beneath the track mounting holes to provide a good solid piece of wood to hold the track mounting screws. If you used thinner plywood, or didn't apply Homasote to the table top adjust the screw lengths accordingly. I also filled the small openings in the track near the joints.I used Red Devil Vinyl Spackling Compound applied with a small Artist's Palette Knife to fill all gaps and holes in the track.
The Rustoleum Flat Back Enamel that I ultimately used created a track surface that was very realistic looking and provided excellent traction. The upper half has Vinyl Spackling Compound applied, but has not yet been sanded or painted.Note too that the outsides of all of the turns have been wrapped with my HO Track Borders before I painted the track surface.
This was done to reduce the apparent thickness of the track surface when it's mounted on the table top. Using my HO Track Borders eliminates the need for guard rails and allows a car in the outside lane to slide out and not fall off the edge of the track.With the construction phase completed I was able to move the table into my racing room. The FISA Curb Tape Kit includes White Vinyl Tape that is applied directly to the Turn Borders.
A well-made table will prevent the track and landscaping elements from flexing and possibly cracking when the table is moved or transported to another location.See the Tables and Construction sections for more information about building a sturdy and stable platform for a landscaped raceway. A garage complex also provides a setting for showcasing your favorite slot cars.Always keep in mind that you'll be racing on your track. If your tastes run more towards Le Mans GTP sportscars then purchase the Tomy AFX 4-Way Split Race Set instead.Tracker 2000 makes it easy to design slot car tracks that can actually be built. You must use soldering flux, attempting to solder bare metal rails without first applying flux will lead to many problems.The soldering flux I use is sold in a small shoe polish-like tub. Sand the metal power rails at the points where you soldered them until they're smooth.Follow up by sanding the entire track surface using a Medium Grit 3M Sanding Sponge. 3 Flathead Wood Screws in countersunk mounting holes as described in the Construction section. The final straight section is secured to the plywood ramp on the left and directly into the table on the right. It can be easily formed to follow the contour of the evaluated track section and can be cut with a simple pair of scissors.
I cut the flexible tip off of the end of the Palette Knife with a tin snips to create a miniature putty knife with a square edge. The flat black surface looks just like real tarmac.I applied a second coat of flat black paint once the primary coat had dried. These borders are made from Black Neoprene Rubber and are exactly the same height as the track surface itself.
The remaining landscaping elements and trackside buildings can now be installed in my hobby room instead of my shop. The overall effect of filled, sanded and painted track in combination with the FISA curbing adds to the realism of the layout. Place a dab on each of the four metal power rails that make up the joint of a 2-lane track section.The metal power rails can be soldered if you use a hot iron. The time and effort spent preparing the track joints will make for a raceway that will never suffer from mysterious electrical gremlins or bumpy track joints and slots that can catch the guide pin.
Fasten all track sections to the tabletop, except for those that will be elevated.With the track assembled and fastened to the table top the next step involves building the elevated section of the layout.


8 Wood Screws and Elmer's Wood Glue to fasten the plywood bridge section to the 2×4 lumber.
This works well for filling and then smoothing the spackling compound in between the lanes.The spackling compound needs to dry overnight before it can be sanded smooth.
They create a nice wide apron to allow the rear end of a car to drift out onto the apron without falling off of the edge of the track.In the photograph above you can see that I also painted the primed Homasote a dark green color. The race track is the main focal point, with landscaping elements added to highlight the track itself.The German architect, Mies van der Rohe said it best, Less is more. Place trees and other foliage so as to allow the drivers to be able to see their cars as they move around the raceway.Most HO model railroad landscaping materials can be adapted to slot car tracks. Large gaps or mis-alignments will make it very difficult to build the track and mount it on a table.
Purchase Cove Molding that does NOT have pre-applied adhesive.The back side of this material has horizontally molded grooves that can be used as a cutting guide. I used a 3M Medium Grit Sanding Sponge to remove the excess spackling compound and form a smooth track surface without any visible joints or gaps.
If you prefer a lighter track surface substitute Rustoleum Flat Gray Enamel instead of black.
You only want to paint the edge of the track to make it appear more flush with the table top.Once the painted track has completely dried the metal power rails can be exposed. The Homasote has been sealed with Kilz Oil-Based Primer, but has not been painted like the other tables I normally build because a later step will involve applying Woodland Scenics turf materials.
You can use the track itself as the template and trace around the inside and outside edges with a pencil. DO NOT wet-sand the spackling compound or the dust will fill the track's slots and harden, making it very difficult to remove from the slot before painting.Once the track has been sanded use a shop vacuum to remove all of the spackling compound dust created in the sanding process. Painting in between the mounted track sections was a tedious process, and if I were to do it over again I would paint the entire table top dark green before I fastened the track down. Using a small flat-bladed screwdriver, place the blade on a power rail and slowing scrape the paint for the top of the metal rail.
A few carefully selected landscaping elements can lend to the authentic appearance of the raceway without overpowering the overall scheme. It's better to have the last two remaining track sections overlap slightly then to leave a gap. You need to use a soldering iron that can quickly heat the metal rails without melting the plastic on either side of the rails.Place the chisel tip on the rails where they're joined and apply solder to fill the gap.
Follow up by wiping the entire track surface with a damp rag to remove any residual dust before painting.I experimented with several different colors and types of paint before I found a suitable solution. I would also have painted the inside edge of the retaining wall a Sky Blue color to avoid having to cut it in later once the track was attached.In a latter phase Woodland Scenics Turf material will be applied to the green painted portions of the table. It works, but it's not as good as the original orange label.Put a drop of glue on each of the two center tabs at a track joint along with a drop in each of the two tabs on the outsides of the track.
The best results were achieved by using Rustoleum Flat Black Enamel thinned 2:1, that is 2 parts paint to 1 part paint thinner.
Woodland Scenics recommends that there turf products be applied to a surface that has been painted a color similar to the turf material itself.I also found that it would have been easier to fill and sand the entire track all at once instead of doing it in sections. Only remove the paint on the top of the rail, do not remove the paint on the sides of the steel power rails.The power rails will not be as visible if only the top surface is exposed. Join the two track sections and make sure the center tabs are fully locked together and flush with the surrounding track surface.
8 Wood Screws driven up through the bottom of the table to secure the 2×4 supports to the table itself.
The sanding dust gets everywhere, so sanding the entire track in one single session would have greatly reduced the cleanup.
With standard unpainted track light is reflected off the sides of the rail, making them much more predominate, but when only the top of the rail is exposed the rails are much more difficult to see and add to the overall realism of the raceway. Repeat this process for an entire turn.Wipe away any access glue that might squeeze out of the joint when the track sections are joined and then set the completed turn assembly aside.
Some Elmer's Wood Glue applied to the bottom surfaces of the wooden supports will keep them secured to the tabletop. The flat black paint that was used to cover the track surface also serves to absorb light that would otherwise be reflected off of the shiny metal rails.



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