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Water heater is located in the basement and it is usually takes very long to get hot water on the 2nd floor. Since my gas water heater will be replaced next week, I planned to install the recirculation pump at the same time. He told me that it might be dangerous to drink that water since it stays in the water heater for some time. There is also a line that goes to my samsung refrigerator, but in that case, there is a filter in the fridge. He says that if you cook, you may take hot water since you will boil it but it might be a problem if that water returned to cold pipe then you drink it. For what I understand, it is the control valve at remote end of piping (bathroom 2nd floor in my case) that will trigger at 98 degrees F.
I don't think I will run the return line cause it would emply new piping from the second floor to the basement. Since I need to replace my water heater, my other option is to put a tankless one but my searches on this forum point me to stay with a conventional 50gallon gas water heater. The utility requirements (gas or electric) for a Tankless to work are at least as much of a cost and bother factor as the equipment costs are. Showering in a RV generally requires a concerted effort to save water – especially hot water. My solution was to install a check valve in the hot water line as close to the shower as possible.
Back at the camper I glued the adapters into the check valves with PVC cleaner and solvent. The check valves eliminated the problem with the rush of cold water when turning on the valve at the shower head. It may not be possible to install check valves at the shower water feed lines on other makes or models of RVs due to restricted space or access.
My suspicion is that there are two likely places - the air bubble on top of the hot water tank, and an accumulator, if installed. So I’m wondering if one set of check valves further back in the system (just after the heater on the hot side, after any accumulator and the water heater T on the cold) would address this problem.
The benefit, besides the lesser cost of putting one set of check valves in if you have multiple fixtures, and not having nearly the space constraints, is that low point drains could be added just after the check valves, so the system could be completely drained.

I installed both check valves about 3 feet from the shower faucet and it works great, no more hot or cold water coming out first. The valves need to be as close as possible to the shower in order to minimize the effect of differential pressure. If you are not a member, please consider registering so you don't have to fill out this form each time you comment. April 19, 2016 on Mod #82: Air Conditioner Hard Start Capacitor by Robert m taylor - Have s 2000 model Coleman pop-up w. April 4, 2016 on Mod #100: Honeywell Digital Thermostat by Jim Veillette - Thank you for posting pics and this write up. Our goal is to provide visitors with excellent plumbing how to's and other great plumbing-related articles. In this type of water re-circulation system, the pump is normally installed into the drain line of the water heater.
For that reason, it is appropriate to wet yourself down, turn off the water, lather up and then turn the water back on to rinse. You would get a blast of icy cold water that lasted longer than any of the other campers we had owned. The cold water line immediately branched off and went directly to the shower and wash basin above then worked its way across the camper to the water heater. A check valve would allow water to flow only in one direction – to the shower mixing valve and would not allow cold water to backflow. It was a nice compact size but was somewhat pricey compared to a second choice for half as much.
To prevent any solvent from getting into the check valve and ruining it I only applied solvent to the outside of the adapter and then pushed the check valve down on top of the adapter. The first thing you have to avoid is the water from one recirc line flowing to another faucet through IT'S recirc line. Of course, the best way to turn the water off and on is with a simple valve at or on the shower head. When you turned the valve on to resume your shower, you would get a blast of either extremely cold water or scald yourself with hot water. Heated water was returned to the shower by the same parallel pathway but included branches to the kitchen and laundry hook up.

I figured that I might as well install check valves in both the hot and cold water lines so that I would be sure the system was balanced. With the adapters in place, I could thread in the second set of adapters that would attach to the PEX pipe in the camper. When winterizing the RV water system you will need to be sure adequate pink fluid is pumped into the lines above the valve.
Am I the only one, or is there someone else out there that would like more then 1 gpm in the shower???? I still got a blast of cold water after shutting off the shower handle then turning it back on. Especially since the access to the Water lines for the Shower in our Eagle Cap 950 Truck Camper was a little on the tight side. Please refrain from asking where to purchase a product, business, pricing, or legal questions, for contractor referrals, or any questions not related to plumbing. Then you have to have a method of balancing the flows so they all get at least some circulation.
We learned to live with the situation and always made sure we pointed the shower head away from us for a few moments when restarting water flow to avoid the temperature change shock. It was evident that when the water was turned off at the shower head that the incoming cold water, which was at a higher flow pressure than the outgoing hot water, would backflow thru the shower faucets or mixing valves and back up in the hot water line until pressure equalized.
When the RV is built, all the connections are secured with metal ferrules that are set with a rather expensive crimping tool. It was a lot of adapting, but since a PEX type check valve was not available in the store I did not have much of a choice. When the valve on the shower head was turned back on cold water would push back thru the hot water line and mixing valve; you would get frosted until all the cold water that had back flowed was flushed out. Gear clamps do not work too well with PEX; you simply cannot get them tight enough on the tough pipe to make a water tight blow proof joint.

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