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Most model train control software was born out of a few guys tinkering with PC throttle controls, sharing their programs and generally just being train geeks.
Digital command control , or DCC, allows model trains to run more realistically than ever before, with controlled speeds, your locomotive can perform exactly as it’s full scale counterpart would. The availability of decoders is now such that virtually all model railroaders can start out with a DCC system, which is much easier that upgrading an older train.
If on the other hand, you just want to hook it up as fast as possible and get your trains running, then you might want to purchase some professionally developed software that is ready to use out of the box.
Hey Fellow Train Lovers, Enjoy the site and I hope you get some model train info you can use. 60026 arrives at Cement Quay Old Wharf with a and empty short rake of MFA high sided box wagons.
I’m always being questioned about photographing model railways, so here is a ‘reprint’ from an article I penned for Model Rail July 2008 issue. After spending very many hours and money on creating your favourite railway item in miniature, it’s quite likely you’re going to want to record the outcome to share with the friends, on a railway forum like RM Web, your own website, or of course the model railway press! The last decade has seen photography change enormously, with mega-pixels & digits replacing film emulsion in this increasingly digital world we live in. Despite many manufacturers claiming that, ‘their’ camera will turn you into a brilliant photographer with little effort, some basic techniques and a little understanding of photography will help to give some credibility to their claims though ultimately framing and composition is very much down to the user.
Before we take any pictures, we need to be sure that what we record has the potential to be the best quality possible. With the flash turned off when in dark places, you might well find that you get snowy noisy looking pictures?
However steady handed you think you are, because we’re photographing something often close up, any movement will be amplified, making the slightest bit of camera shake looking like you took the picture during a 10 plus Richter scale earthquake! A nifty trick is to find the camera’s ‘self timer’, that’s the setting you use when you want to do that self portrait whilst on holiday.
Some of the simpler cameras will not let you have any control over aperture or shutter, user changes being via ‘scene modes’ where you select the type of picture you want to take. If you have yet to buy a small digital camera, and you intend to do quite a bit of model railway photography, it would be a good idea to choose a camera that allows you to have control over the aperture setting. Getting your subject properly lit, the simplest way, is to take your model outside where the light is good.
Another option, especially if photographing a model railway, or using one as a backdrop for an engine or train, is to use the layout’s own lighting.
It’s possible that the camera metering is being effected by something very bright or dark within the picture.
The trick when doing this is to experiment a little, after all, cameras and lighting will vary.
Try photographing your trains against a simple back ground. A large print was used here with the light coming in from thegarden.
If you’re photographing an item of rolling stock or engine which isn’t on a layout, try to place it in front of a background which isn’t too busy or distracting.
Fill the frame, there’s no point in having a picture which needs to be enlarged at a later stage. Digital is a great tool, you can analyse the photographic progress as you go along, adjusting brightness, colour and focus then deleting sub standard images and correcting errors as many times as necessary. Rebuilding this site has given me lots of time to think about what a website should be for. A scene so realistic that you can practically taste the "dry rot" coming from the antiquated structure.
A Model Railroad resource should strive to make its readers feel able to achieve goals, not just basic goals, the doozies that take a few tries to accomplish.
Basically you are replace an analog controller which varies the voltage to a digital command control center that can operate all kinds of devices as long as they contain decoders.


The earliest versions were very technical and required extensive computer programming knowledge to just make them function. They are easily obtainable for all scales, even n scale, although you’ll need some tiny tools and some patience installing them. I personally feel that starer versions of software are so cheap now, that I would not even consider messing with open sourced code. The loco will uncouple and run around the train before propelling it under the screen for loading. Cameras have moved on a little since then in that most are capable from producing a good quality A3 print, but the basic rules are the same - ‘light it well, keep it still’. This for the casual snapper this has been nothing but a good thing, for now with even the most inexpensive digital camera, what was quite specialist photography is within the grasp of almost anybody. However, with a few simple rules and easy to grasp techniques, extraordinary good results can be had from the recent breed of high resolution small digital pocket cameras. Along with ‘superfine’ jpeg just discussed, you need to have the largest picture dimension selected, again as before, the printed page is far less forgiving than the computer screen. A tripod will always be a useful tool, however, if your interest in photography is only passing, understandably it’s unlikely you’ll want to invest in such. OK, the idea isn’t that you do a self portrait of you and your favourite piece (well, you can if you like!), use the tool to fire off the camera without touching it – thus reducing the chance of camera shake when the shutter opens. For real close-ups, you’ll probably need to select ‘macro’ mode, this is often via a button with a ‘tulip’ icon depending on brand of camera.
If you have this option, which will again depend on make and model, this will have the advantage of letting you focus exactly where you want to. With many makes, you can set the camera into ‘aperture priority’ mode, this is often displayed as ‘AV’.
The aperture is an iris much like in ones eye, hold a finger up to your eye and really squint, you’ll notice that you might even be able to see your eyelashes, finger and background all more or less in focus. There are usually modes for ‘sport’, ‘portraits’, ‘landscapes’ fireworks, but sadly no mode for model railway close ups! Whilst it might be fine for family snaps, it will generally not do our model making any favours, creating flat and quite often washed out pictures with no depth. Overcast and sunshine work well in this respect, both giving different but equally good results. Digital cameras generally have quite good automatic white balance control, which like the eye, should adapt to the lighting on the layout – more on white balance in a moment. Sometimes the automatic white balance will refuse to work as well as you like, when this happens, you might want to experiment with some of the white balance ‘pre sets’, again look at your camera manual. Its simplest form can be placing the subject on a length of clean new track in front of a large sheet of curved paper. Rather than zooming into your subject from far way, keep the zoom wide and fill the frame, you will get a more natural perspective. These cameras can also be very useful for checking progress of model making, sometimes errors and blemishes only show up when you see them on the back of the camera or computer screen. Use the ‘self timer’ for hands free operation.• Select ‘macro’ for close up work.• Turn that flash off! Coming on the heels of the PRR H10, EMD SW1500, Address Changer, the New Haven I-5, we now have production samples of our wildly popular HO H32 Covered Hopper Cars! Instead of our original white building, we thought you would like to see the Hazen Boyd kit assembled into an old weather beaten flour mill. Your signals, buildings, switches (of course) and any associated moving scenery can be computer controlled.
There is no computer Photoshop jiggery pokery here, the sky is part of the layout painted onto a nice hight curved backdrop, something that is worth considering if you intend to photograph your layout alot. Most people have found this out when they try to print a picture from the internet, it looks great on the screen but terrible printed.


Whilst this may be fine for that boozy snapshot down the pub, you probably won’t want to see this effect in your pictures. Obviously the camera needs to be supported so that bean bag or bag of rice already mentioned will be ideal!
Another option is to point the camera at the part of the item you want in sharp focus, half press the shutter release (which will set the focus), then with your finger still half pressing the shutter release recompose the shot to the angle you want then fully depress the shutter release. Choosing a small aperture does the same thing, meaning far more of the picture will be in focus – just what we want! For this reason you may have a problem getting the camera to select a small aperture for the close ups.
This can usually be controlled by a button with a ‘lightning’ icon somewhere on the camera. White balance settings are often embedded in one of the menus, and will usually be indicated up with simple icons to reflect the type of light you are trying to balance for. Because the camera is totally unforgiving, it can help us become more critical and better model maker – hopefully! Gray, driftwood stain, black alcohol stain and a Q-tip were used to achieve the incredible realism you see here. Check your camera instruction and you should be able to adjust the camera’s ISO, this being the international standard used to rate digital cameras and film’s sensitivity to light. A small bag of rice or purpose made bean bag can be very useful (get somebody nifty with a sewing machine or buy a purpose made one), it allowing you to adjust the angle of the camera with little effort. If you’re using the self timer, you can fully press the shutter release button before recomposing, the 10 second delay giving you lots of time.
This is known as ‘depth or field’, aperture is normally marked up as numbers, the higher the number, the greater the ‘depth of field’. However, if you can take your model out side into brighter light, it’s quite likely that the camera’s computer will select a smaller aperture. Fluorescent lighting and the new ‘energy saver’ bulbs are the ones most likely to cause issue, due to there being so many different types. Keeping to just one type of light gets around this, the camera can only correct for one type at a time.
If you’ve leant the camera to the kids or Aunty Mabel, the ‘ordinary’ quality will be fine, after all there’s no point in filling up precious memory with stuff you’ll probably delete anyway (with apologies to any Mabels out there that are top photographers). Simply speaking, the lower the number (ISO) the less noisy or grainy the picture will appear.
Some cameras will also allow you to balance for your specific light using a sheet of white paper in the scene prior to taking pictures.
For that you need software that will allow you to create your 3D object and then export it in a format that you can upload to your 3D printing service. For serious photography, only ‘Superfine’ (this term may vary depending on camera make) will do.
Forget the last two, large is the only option despite what the local pub know-all or salesman down the camera shop might tell you. You’ll know when you’ve found it, because it will be the setting that gives you the least number of pictures on your card.
Again, it’s as before, you know when you’ve found it because it will give you the least number of frames on your memory card!



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