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I hope this will not be a forum for critiquing or long discussions, just a repository of MRH member plans.
I have not built this, this is only one option I am looking at, since I havent actually built the building that will someday house the layout. My idea was to have a 2 main track railroad, where trains could be looped for open houses and railfanning, but for operations, trains would come out of staging, run over the line, and either end at the modeled yard or back to staging.
You will NEVER EVER get something in beyond a circle as long as you use an 11 inch radius. OK there are no ops but thats not the goal now is it, its to develop modeling skills, thats what micro Pizza layout likes this are best for.
I sort of fell into building micros a few years ago when I had to dismantle my fixed layout when we demolished and rebuilt our garage.
So go for it and remember with a micro, the detailing gets focused inward, every square inch is part of the layout and something for the eye to consider. I know you are doing N Scale, and a circle is about all you get unless you strive for 2 circles in some manner on the same layout.
They are worth a look for your tiny layout the curved side is 9" radius which is sharp but might get you the desired sidings. I took that to mean that you thought you had not enough room for much, and I was stating one CAN have  a nice scene setting on a small scale. Since you seem committed to this plan, I'll just briefly mention that the ideas in 101 Track Plans are more than 50 years old and there are often better alternatives in the equivalent space.
You will be relaying out the plan anyway, so you can probably use slightly larger frog numbers or other turnouts from atlas or elsewhere. Problem is, Atlas C55 N has no #4, tough for those of us who model tight terminal trackage. The photo you showed of the C55 is nicely ballasted, with the ends of the ties hidden by ballast. The C80 photo has the ends of the ties hanging out with no ballast in part of the picture and with the track and ties unweathered. I recently started a room-size N-scale layout that will have about 130 feet of visible mainline track (and a lot more hidden). I also will be using some Micro Engineering Code 55 flex because it is the only N-scale concrete tie flex with the correct North American tie spacing. If you are running older equipment (with larger flanges) your selection will be limited a little. Peco code 80 and code 55 - Great stuff, lots of track choices (curved turnouts, Stub turnouts, slip switches, and all kinds of stuff), solid and reliable. Now since Micro Engineering just came out with a DCC friendly version of their HO stuff a little while ago, N scale might be comming soon. Since you have to leave space to walk around an island, you get much more layout if you put the layout around the walls and leave a donut hole in the middle.
Building a small tail chaser can be fun, but certainly has its challenges, when it comes to operation and realistic scenery. For simplicity - Atlas snap track, blocked wiring, continuous running (with dropouts in), 1"wood shelving (so no benchwork) supported by metal L shape shelf brackets. Its not the dream layout of the future, by it gets me by and allows me to operate, and test my trains.
I would love to go around the walls, but 2 doors open into the room and my desk has a big hutch on top of it full of books and train parts. Ho scale model train layouts & model railroad track plans, This ho scale model railroad guide features a directory of ho scale model railroad layouts, photos, videos, tours, track plans, product reviews, expert advice, and. Joined a Club in 1984 and we had 3 layouts going at the time (Lionel - HO - N) so this gave me a good base to learn from in those 3 scales.
In 1989 the Club moved out of the Mall room we had occupied from 1984 to a larger area 3300 sq ft (the Mall area was 2500 sq ft).- we were building 3 layout here also!
Moved again into a 1875 sq ft place and again were building 3 layouts there and are still there after 22 years.
This gave me a really good knowledge base of how to build a layout the right way as the CLUB Layouts have to RUN ALL the time with the General Public PAYING to see trains run. In 1999 I moved from the old house into a new Ranch style home with a 1875 sq ft basement and began building my current layout depicting the Western PA area from Dubois to East Brady PA.

I then added on a 16 x 16 room plus expanded into my Basement Office space (another 14 x 28 area) which was separate of the main basement.
Since I had most of the expense of the layout out of the way before retiring - I now can spend 40 hours a week in the basement having more fun that should be allowed! None of this downsizing for me - I actually need a bit more room to make this layout closer to the real thing in design - but I guess I will just have to wait until I hit the Lottery! At age 39 I discovered I could have a huge house in the country on acreage for the same price as my average house in the city cost.
Well, at age 11 I took over ownership of a layout my father had built for me, in the basement. In this part of the country - most houses have basements - so a 2500 sq ft house, comes with a 2500 sq ft train room!
Most of my train buddies around here have layouts that fill all or most of their basements, so lots fo them have layout spaces bigger than my 880 sq ft.
But fine-looking layouts can be built from a number of brands of track, including Atlas Code 55. I've used everything from Atlas code 80 to Kato (absolutely hated it), to Atlas code 55 to Peco code 55. One interesting thing about them is that regardless of which switch you use, whether it's a short radius, medium, long, or curved, they all use the same #6 frog. As a warning about their flextrack, unlike Atlas flextrack where only 1 rail slides when bent, on the Peco, they both do and they are a bit tighter than the moving Atlas rail.
I actually switched over to O scale a few years ago due to the amount of detail available there but I've still got the good old n-scale layout and still like it and work on it from time to time.
I guess we are all in agreement that Dave Vollmer´s PRR Juniata Division layout is a mighty fine layout. All kidding aside, there are plenty of issues I'd love to correct on the Juniata Division, enough such that I'm probably just going to start over at some point with a modular layout (using the Enola extension as one module). Question is, what is this talk about interswitching Peco and ME and having to cut away the flanges?  I am no expert on railroad terminology so an explanation of this would be great.Thanks!
Nice job whoever built it-I had to take a break from buildding the strut towers-Fun to build but man,they are a bugger to keep flat and square. 19 Years old, modeling the Cowlitz, Chehalis, and Cascade Railroad of Western Washington in 1927 in 6X6 feet. This track plan is something that I would be happy with, so not everyone is going to think this is the best plan every, but I designed it for me, and I like it. There is also a branch line that ends at a coal flood loader, to add lots of unit coal trains.
When you politely ask,  they may find you a slightly bigger piece of scrap ply for free. As the OP does say he has plans for a larger layout down the line but that he wants to develop his skills now. PECO N scale turnouts are offered in Medium and Large sizes in Code 80, and Small, Medium, and Large sizes in Code 55.
If you use off-the-shelf turnouts, they won't match the drawing in 101 Track Plans exactly in any case.
They have an over-center spring that holds the points in place and you can simply flick them with your finger. That PECO Small works like a charm -- and looks OK to me when I bury it in the ground (as my prototype's ties were sunk in the ground for the most part). I have only used Atlas Code 80 on previous layouts but chose Atlas Code 55 this time around because it looked so good in everyone's photography. Problems - turnouts have a spring like the Peco ones so it has those same issues, can be hard to find, very expensive. I can either operate as a small switching layout, or if the mood strikes, put in the drop outs and run a few laps with a 12 car passenger train (albeit on 18" curves so NO highballing!).
BUT - it will have a basement, likely about 2500 to 3000 sq ft - so my retirement layout space might get bigger yet! Peco track is built with wider tie spacing to match European prototypes while Micro Engineering track is built to match the American prototype.
My favorite in terms of ease of use is the Peco code 55 and my current n-scale layout uses it.

Derailments are never an issue with them as long as they are level and since the points are spring loaded, they stay in place well even without a switch motor or ground throw installed.
Just a couple of quick hits with a small file across the railheads and the joint is smooth.
I just laid down some track over the weekend to test some track arrangements, and boy does that Atlas Code 55 look sweet. It just doesn't look the greatest (tall rail, oversize ties and tie spacing and so forth). I had planned on the expansion, however I am finding what I have now is more than enough based on my progress. I believe both track products are top notch when it comes to flex track performance, although Peco has the advantage when it comes to turnouts in both variety and performance.
The rail itself is actually "embedded" into the ties and thus jas a different profile than all other code 55 track, making it difficult to join with track of different brands. I dabbled with Atlas code 55 but I have too many older pieces that don't run on it due to wheel flange sizes and I have no desire to convert many of them.
Some are just used to taking Atlas flextrack and instantly and quickly bending it to their desired shape. His new extension uses Atlas code 55 track and there is, of course, a vast difference in looks. It is a question of taste and choice, whether we want to go for over-sized details, or just omit them. It seems to and a slight cushion to the joint which is just what we need for any slight flexing and vibration from years of running. The chief advantage being you can build a micro and finish it quickly , they dont take up anywhere as much room as a traditional layout, and you can try a wide range of scales styles gauges ideas fantasies whatever, without breaking the bank or causing a near divorce when your layout eats up the entire family room. I've been told one solution is that you must remove the spring and make a new throwbar in order to use DCC with no issues.
My attention turned to many other interest as in sports, seeing the world and working as many hours as I could handle for the feds. As far as looks are concerned, n scale is so small that any nonprototypical things are really nonissues.
With their electrofrog turnouts, once you know how to wire them, there is no special polarity reversing needed for the frog when using dcc. I'll always have a special place for N scale and n-scale is what allows me to run modern equipment in a more realistic setting with longer trains.
I realize that not everyone will not have these large chunks of hardwood at their disposal, but any blosks will do the job.
On larger scales, fine track details really stand out and things like rail code, tie plates, and spikes are quite apparent. If you could enlarge code 55 track to a truly lifelike size, you'd see that even it is far too large to be truly prototypical and todays heavy mainline rails are actually closer to code 40 in scale.
Then again none of my pieces still have them except for the things that are 25 years old and no longer run. My website is crude and in need of a serious update but show me someone else who has put this much effort into making 3 rail look like it's only got 2.
If you develop any kink and need to start over, just straighten the track by pressing on a flat surface.
SP or UP main on left side with interchange, ATSF or BNSF main on right side with interchange. On smaller scales, what matters most is a believable track color as fine details don't matter as much. Part of the problem is that the instructions are terrible!The kits are very nice but not for un-patient or short of expletives people.
The only ones that really stick out use code 80 rail but it's the rail and not the ties that are so obvious.

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