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Particular care is needed around point-work to stop ballast from interfering with railroad operations.
If ballast finds its way into places it shouldna€™t, then there is the potential for mechanisms to seize upa€¦ I know, because ita€™s happened to me.
Also, when glue is added a€“ well, that can cause problems too.To prevent problems, I now apply a small amount of locomotive oil around all the moving parts on each point. It could be that the distance to the nearest power source is too far or that perhaps the quality of the joints between track sections has weakened the flow of power.Begin by tightening any loose joiners and if required, add a second set of wires from your power supply to the track in the problem area. Take care to connect each wire to the correct rail.On larger layouts, especially with DCC setups, it is suggested a bus wire (with feeders) to multiple track sections be used.
Generally, feeder wires are attached every 6 to 12 feet or so.Another option is to solder the rail joiners themselves. Doing this should minimize any voltage drop, as well as help get rid of any kinks that could potentially cause a derailment.
I originally had 18 inch curves and changed these to 22 inch curves, but I didn’t replace the turnouts.
I take a scale model car (I model in HO) and cover it with aluminum foil and press it to form the shape of the car and trim the excess foil off.I then remove the foil and paint it with a rust colored paint and then repaint in another color that is common for that vehicle leaving some of the rust showing. They go into quite a bit of detail about cementing the motor in being one way of insulating it from the chassis, or using black plastic electrician tape or other methods. Surely all you need is to ensure the motor windings are isolated?The windings connect to one side of the decoder and the other side is connected to each side of the track no matter how its picked up.
What does it matter if the motor case, and the entire chassis of the locomotive connected to one set of wheels acting as pickup for one side and is electrically isolated from the set of wheels connected to the copper pickup(s), you still have 2 separate pickups. There were the mighty Class 25 condenser locos to the Class16E a Pacific grey hound and the 15CA on many lines mixed with diesels of various types from the Class31, 34. The whole idea was to show what the South African railways looked like in the respective periods.I call this layout a€?My worlda€? as it was in my young years to the mid 1970a€™s when I saw the railways in the period of my life from a young boy to a young adult . The guy had a plastic joiner which clamped the drop wire to the buss without removing the insulation on the buss line ( no soldering was needed).


I was told the buss wires for the different rails were best to be different colors so that there was no confusion when joining drop wires.
Here we goa€¦The more carefully you think through the planning stages of building your model railway, the fewer problems youa€™ll have when ita€™s finished and operational. Thata€™s my experience anyway.I cana€™t stress enough, the importance of selecting the right track plan for the space you have available. The cars need to operate without derailing, and the railroad needs a reason to exist, because no trains run from point A to point B without a purpose.
Also, Ia€™m sure youa€™ll soon get bored if the layout is too restrictive, and doesna€™t allow for enough operational variations.Based on my experience, I would say you should be 100% certain of your track plan, and lay it out on your baseboard before pinning it down. I first pin the track lightly to my baseboard which I make from exterior Water and Boil Proof (WBP) plywood.
I dona€™t use cork.I then test for smooth operation and test that the electrics of the track are correct.
This is really important, because ita€™s too late if you find problems after the ballasting is done.
So check track alignments, wiring etc before you ballast.As soon as I have finished and tested the wiring, I then test my various locomotives and all my rolling stock on the track.
I do this to satisfy myself that the track is laid correctly and that it allows for good running.
One big question, I have my own DIY dcc command station (DCC _Gen v 2c ) with ACK Detector, Booster R-CDE and a Feedback module S88.
I use this for my LIGHT weathering jobs.When HEAVIER weathering is needed I use a mix of 2 teaspoons of India Ink in 1 pint of rubbing alcohol.
My personal preference is to use the Hunterline bottles of alcohol based weathering which I buy direct online.
You might prefer another brand.I do a lot of dry-brushing as it gives my projects a more a€?blendeda€? look.
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