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Those trees looked great and I need to make some for my newly contructed N gauge LMS Scottish glens and scatered through out the layout. I want everybody to be on alert about buying software on the internet I bought a program called Anyrail,paid 59.00 for it. Let me just add here that living in the US, I tend to lean toward the beloved mountain pines of my childhood, but I do love to also see plenty of others, as well.
Excelent job.The most difficult part is finding shrubry that has realistic looking branching. This is for the person who is having trouble with the AnyRail software he purchased from E-Bay.
The photo shows mixed twine trees of different heights and shapes on a hillside on my Utopia Northern HO layout.Here's how to do it.
Weeds like spirea or yarrow can quickly be turned into trees with some ground foam and hair spray. If you are curious about the Internet, social media like Facebook and Twitter, and want to know more about what's going on in the wide, wide world up in the clouds, and especially if you have any desire to do something for yourself, I urge you to take a little time to watch the video below.
You can also buy evergreen model tree kits from Woodland Scenics, which contains tall flat pine tree stems and a bag of dark green clump-foliage.
Lots of model railroading folks and diorama artists have their own favorite ways of making trees.
Easily made pine trees See youtube how i make the big number of fast made nice pine trees.
Pine Cone Trees (way 2) Well this way looks good but its hard to find an ideal pine cone.
Trees Made with Juniper Snips and Balsa Trunks I use balsa wood carved to the shape of a conifer trunk, then score the trunk liberally with my razor saw to simulate bark. Anyone else notice the trees Mike Rose has used in his Kinter Milling article on the cover of the May MRH?
My impression is that Mike probably employed some local dried weeds as armatures, covering them with ground foam.
Then one day while working in the yard in the fall I found I had a couple dozen bushes that had dried ends on them that looked kinda tree-like so I treated these and dipped in ground foam. Note the individual trees and branches to the far right of the photo and just above the string of hopper cars to the left. The total lack of structural detail in the case of puffballs is why they also fail at being convincing from the viewing distance we take on seeing a layout in person.


Having recently decided to make a layout, my first idea was to make the location somewhere coastal, maybe in the Pacific Northwest or perhaps even Alaska.
I am currently doing a coal mine layout but next is going to be an Australian logging layout. I have a collection of various trees just waiting to be placed on a new (first) HO layout, but do want to make more of my own.
We have lovely hardwoods in the north, and here in the south we have lots of pines, as well as the others. My railroad suffers from housecats roaming and some of these cats just use their paws like a golf club and turf the trees out like golf balls. Step back 15’ and they do work, along with a lack of many other details, simply because our minds will assume the detail is there, but beyond our visual resolution. This is my first layout since my childhood in the 70's, and I want to make something that I can get operational quickly, and as cheaply as possible. As it turns out, the tippy tips of Mesquite and Palo Verde branches have the right look for miniature versions of themselves (Who'da thunk, right?) .
Lay all the balls alongside one another on the sub-base that you've painted previously with brown latex matte house paint. If you want to get picky, refer to the NMRA data sheet D2a.1 issued April, 1961 called Trees and Shrubs. I cannot remember which recent episode he discussed his techniques, you can download the shows at the podcast site. I want to think that having his foliage continue all the way to ground level is supposed to represent low vegetation backed by trees near trackside, but the lack of any distinction, or break, between the two tends to minimize the effect for me. To get the lush overgrown look of a western old growth forest would require a LOT of trees and very elaborate groundcover, both of which mean lots of time and expense. Seeing all of the great looking trees made with natural armatures is very inspirational and informative. I have seen other programs that looked to have more bells and whistles, but this one has a pretty good bang for the buck.
I am a 78-year old woman, and just beginning, along with my husband, to look forward to many years of modeling! There are many excellent articles on making trees that you'll find in the magazines and on the Internet.Here are a few of my quickie cheapies.
If one wants to show undergrowth amongst the trees, certainly scraps of SuperTrees could be used once they have been flocked with a somewhat differently colored ground foam from that used to cover the tees.


Perhaps a combination of the individual trees in your last photo in the foreground with poly fiber tuffs behind them would work. After careful consideration I elected to make my layout based in the desert, the west coast of northern Mexico to be exact. Thank all of you for sharing your techniques, successes and maybe most importantly failures. These are the ones that I have devoted my time to creating since Christmas and in just a few weeks I have found so many different meathods of creating the foliage.
Thet also gave me two web sites which did not work.They told me that their hands were tied and subjested that I buy it again.
Problem, with so much, what do you start with, track, or place everything out and build tract to fit. Other foreground trees are available from Woodland Scenics and other manufacturers who provide white metal branches that can be bent to shape.
I live in the Sonoran Desert , and it turns out that desert soil sifted through a #100 mining sieve produces perfect desert soil for a MRR! Taking a chance on another 59.00 money is hard to come by these days just to throw out the window. MR is now also available in digital format.Their technique involves using the black polyfiber that MicroMark sells, dipping chunks in thinned white glue, rolling the clumps in green shades of Woodland Scenics green foam foliage, and then teasing the clumps apart when dry until you have a pleasing shape. From what I can gather from all of these attempts, the best bet will be to dollop white glue where I want foliage and use green foam, with maybe another coating of yellow if I want to attempt in bloom trees.\. Rotate the armature assembly until you have the branches well covered.Catch the extra foam in the box so you can use it again. For example, you could put an N scale house up on a hill in an HO scale layout, so that it looks, when viewed at eye level, like the house is much farther away than it really is. If you like, you can drill a larger hole and insert a painted wooden dowel to serve as a trunk, although I think the tree looks fine sitting directly on the ground without the trunk in most situations. You can add a very light sprinkle of brown or tan ground foam to a few of the branch ends to simulate dried leaves.You could also collect a bunch of dried leaves from your back yard, mulch them in an old coffee grinder, and use the mulched leaves to sprinkle around the ground of your bare trees to simulate the leaves that have fallen.




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