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I've decided to undertake an ambitious project (well, ambitious for me anyway), to add scenery to a large expanse of bare plywood on the layout. I found a large piece of corrugated cardboard that one of my kids had used for a project at some point.
But this is fun - I have always enjoyed trying to make things do jobs they were never intended to do. Foam can be found in construction site dumpsters or purchased at a discount from the big box stores if the corner is broke.
I am retired and not broke but prudent with my limited income when it comes to model railroading.
After doing the above steps be sure to put the cap on it and turn on the blender and grind up the foam until it gets to small pieces.
Upon completing the chopping process with the blender take the ground foam from the blender and spread it out on a piece of news paper to let it dry. Also I went to clinic in which they used a cheese ball jar, a muffin fan mounted in the bottom of jar to make trees using Woodland Scenic ground cover. I am perfectly aware, how difficult it is to make realistic looking trees and that´s why I have so far shunned away from it. Maybe you can enhance them by adding the dreaded moss to them and then sprinkle the ground foam over them.
I've also used florist tape to put a few trunks together, but the dipping in plaster idea is great! The larger trees here are Supertree material attached to sagebrush trunks with gel super glue, set quickly using spray accelerator. A while back I decided to take my PRR GG1 and redo it in the phantom GG1 paint scheme shown in Classic Trains this summer. Below is the original shell with filler in the grill to make the bottom portion of the shell smooth for the new decals. Basically, everything was masked off except the truck exteriors and then the blue paint applied. I was really motivated by this particular paint scheme as I thought it SHOULD have been put into production.
I volunteered to help my buddy Michael (Motley) build a replica of the Coors Family Mansion for his layout. Michael may have thought that it was an act of kindness and generosity on my part but, truth be told, I needed the experience to scratch build my own structures, so why not do it on his dime. I am not quite done yet, but here are photos of the mansion before painting and before installing the shingle roof. Some suggested that I start with a small simple structure, but never one to readily take advice, I saw no reason to start small.


To fill in openings on the roof peaks, I used J-B Weld Waterweld Epoxy Putty which dries white.
It is going to be difficult to thank so many people for their kind words, so thank you one and all. My NYC-to-D&H Sharknose superdetailing project has stalled due to work and such, but I will finish it. I have a large box of plaster gauze that I bought on Ebay a few years ago, for the price of three of the Woodland Scenics packages. There are lots of Bing search engine jobs in my area involving creating panoramas in stores for the search engine. I have never considered myself a scavenger, but after analyzing my layout expenses, I look a little more carefully at stuff before trashing it. In fact I bought a damaged cabinet that was already marked down for an additional discount by asking. Poly fibre is also available, and much more cheaply, at fabric stores, but all I've been able to find is white and it cannot be tinted or dyed. I then dip them in a thick mix of Plaster Of Paris up to where the first branch in the trunk is. I use what they call floral tape to put 2-3 branches together then dipping it in the plaster would look great. I then applied easy-off again to the whole shell and because of the reaction to the base paint coat and the easy-off the shell paint was easily removed back to the base plastic. I also used an old shell of an F7B (inverted) to act as a stand to lift the shell off the cardboard base. The next step was to spray the insulators red and then replace them on the shell with the pantographs.
So its got a pretty shiny finish but thats okay by me as this model will probably just sit on display.
Apart from that I don't really know enough to contribute to the paint schemes (unrealised or not) as I know little or nothing about them. The best photos are of the Reading unit, passing over former Reading railroad bridges through town. Broke the trucks side frame in half, top gear housing broke, fuel tank and a few other details. Model railroading can be a very expensive hobby, but I'm working to see how inexpensively it can be done. The paper has turned out to be an increasingly scarce resource, since we dropped our subscription years ago. What you guys have done is great, I do some track work and then switch to scenery it keeps the hobby moving along.


It really is a great feeling to know you're not dependent solely on the decisions of others in what appears on your layout. This changes the date of my railroad to now and makes the SD35s and SD40s just a bit anachronistic. They still need to trim back the running board and securely mount the steps, but they said maybe getting it done by the weekend. Would you possibly have any photos of that steam locomotive??I have been weathering my locomotives.U25B #5058 gets the treatment. It may sound tedious but it goes pretty fast and one can build presentable trestles this way. I think they look really good as the plaster hides any evidence of multiple trunks being joined together. Dan at Yardbirdtrains sold me a new can motor with wormgear and mounting bracket that dropped right in. The link I posted with photos of each unit actually lists the make along with the heritage road, in case you're not up on the spotting differences between a GE ES44AC and an EMD SD70ACe (they are quite different). I will either have to eliminate them from my roster or create a coal-hauling shortline to which I can assign them. I'm assuming that no one has ever produced the safety screen as a detail part and it'll have to be scratchbuilt, correct?
This will, of course, create another paint scheme which I will have to deal with, I have no trouble with my U30cs because I will, under these circumstances, lengthen the frame and truck centers and fit my bachmann dash 8s onto them.This should keep me busy for a day or two! I put it together best I could and it was my only motive power for 20 years, in and out of the hobby.
Do either of you know why NKP management decide they were important?Actually, someone HAS made the parts. Years ago, Overland ran a series of SW's including NKP ones, and ran overages of the cages.
When I started up again in 2005, I found what was left of the old engine, now beyond running again. They were originally built by the W&LE for their four diesel switchers after a paticularly nasty yard accident.
When the NKP leased the Wheeling in 1949 they liked the practice and added the cages to most of their diesel switchers (except the FMs and Limas, I think).
I lived close to NKP in the 50's and saw those screens but never really paid them much attention.



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