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Everything just barely fits, but I managed to create a design that requires almost no modification of the metal body, and I even fit a small flywheel in there!
Now I just have to figure out how to mount the couplers at the proper height and paint the thing.
To position the idler axles, I placed the gears without their axles on the side of the chassis, visually positioned them where I wanted, and used the position to make a small starting point for the drill.
All of the parts (including the brass stock, but minus the actual kit) came up to about $70. SperandeoOur original intention was to complete all the stages of the HO scale Washita & Santa Fe. I must admit that the Washita and Santa Fe was probably the best project model railway that MR has ever shown.
I must agree I also think it was one of their best projects along with the Beer Line and Wisconsin Central projects. I am about to start this very layout, so I will have to keep everyone updated as I go along.
In the first part of the article Mr Sperandeo makes some comments on the Lindsay district and that it would probably have its own switcher, any ideas how this would be serviced?
Once I get the sunshades and people in the cars, I'll be posting pictures of the completed cars.
Your Attention & Talents really show, those are superior models now!Thanks for sharing! Not quite as long a recovery as hip or knee replacement, but getting myself prepared for the task took a little longer than expected. More than a year later, after much consternation, and some kidding aside, I got up the courage and tackled the task at hand with vim and vigor and completing 95% of the project operation in two days this past weekend. With the two Atlas #4 turnouts and a short 3-inch connecting piece of flex track between them I measured the area of the two separated tracks for the optimum location. Now that the cork roadbed and latex caulk adhesive had set up overnight it was time to proceed with the next steps. With the thin layer of latex caulk in place the turnouts are dropped in and the rails aligned with the rail connectors which are then gently glided into place using a set of curved needle nose pliers. The operation was a success, and after 14 months of waiting the layout now has a more direct route between two important Layout Design Elements (LDE's), also reflecting a more prototypical track arrangement as well. Gidday Fred, I've only researched, (read skimmed the surface) the Detroit River ferries and they all appear to have lifeboats.
Any how this is just the excuse I've needed to post a link to this great photo, every time I look at this I am almost persuaded to sell all my gear and model the 1900s.
It's a modified Bachmann 44-tonner power truck, with NWSL wheels, the incredibly tiny yet powerful 1215D-9 motor, and some Kadee springs for wipers. What do you think of the quality of the "out of the box" finish of the printed model shell? Filled it full of lead today, and brought the weight up to about 4oz or so, making it one of my heavier plastic critters.
I also pulled the wheels out of gauge a bit, because it was having some trouble running over switches. I thought I'd give a little example of how tiny it is, so here it is next to a Grandt Line 25-ton and an Athearn Hustler. My nine-year-old daughter & I are building an N-scale shelf switching layout for the summer. TrackOne of the goals for this layout is to do as much ourselves as we can, or at least use up much of the train stuff I’ve accumulated over the past couple years. Track (pt.2)We gorillaglued the pc board ties of the turnout fixtures to the MDF base for added stability, but used caulk for the flex.
Thank you for posting this particular project, because it is almost exactly what I want to set up, just with a different rail line, scene, etc.


It's really cool how you get your daughter very involved with your projects, including the soldering and building turnouts. My interest in CPR and CNR of course because I grew up in Canadian railroad towns and remember them fondly during the last days of steam. Please keep us posted on your porgress and maybe you'll inspire me to start painting my CN brass.
I handlay my turnouts, which allows for a little wiggle room adjusting the throw distance by repositioning the points, but I and others have used these on Atlas C55 turnouts as well and they work great. It's an unpowered, all metal HO scale kit with absolutely no room for any of the currently available drive systems (except possibly a modified Stanton drive). I always wondered what people did with this kit, other than make a load out of it or park it at the end of a weed-grown siding. You also adjusted the height of the idler gears above the axles to make them fit between the axles.
After the holes were drilled, I mounted the gears to check their mesh, took them back out, and elongated the holes in the direction needed to correct the mesh. Pretty expensive, but still cheaper than the pre-built drives like the Bull Ant or Stanton. As far as the remainder of the layout that MR didn't finish, I am going to shoot from the hip on it based on what I learn from constructing the first part that they did finish.
The only remaining items on the punch list is to add some ties and then wire the two turnouts to the DCC buss. This area was chosen as a prime candidate because the two existing track segments are located between the two desired connection points and at nearly the same elevation. Once the track and ties were removed I decided to remove the cork roadbed and replace it with a fresh new bedding.
First, I gently removed the push pins by twisting them as I slowly pulled them out of the cork, then I hand smoothed out the roadbed with a coarse grit sandpaper. Once the paint was dry (about 3 hours) I gathered up 8 rail connectors and gingerly slid them onto the 8 existing rail segments and pushed them flush with the end of the rails. Then the final seating and positioning of the turnouts are completed and allowed to set up in place. The Piedmont Division will not be getting and Explanation of Benefits or EOB letter, as this type of operation is not covered on their health insurance policy!
This is the original defective truck from my Mack 15-ton project, but I was able to semi-repair the gears, tune it just right, and strengthen it with solid axles and metal axle bearings.
The whole model is so tiny that the NWSL 1215D-9 is the only motor I could find that would fit without an extremely complex chassis design, and even with that it's pretty tight! All I need to do now is detail it, paint it, put couplers on, and add a little more weight, and this'll be a good looking, good running critter!
Shapeways cleans and polishes every product that goes out, so a little sanding on the roof and a couple angled spots is all it needs to be perfect. There was typically 200ft of cable on it to be used to extend the locomotives travel away from the overhead wires.
We’re using Atlas C55 flex track and building our own turnouts using ME C55 rail on PC board ties. Division Point: H24-66 Hammerhead, Alco covered wagons A-B-B-A, C-Liner A-B-B-A, EMD FP7A A-B-B. Was not planning on more CN but the S2 with the Belpaire firebox is so unusual that I just had to add one more. You said that you installed the center gear last, but you must have had some means of determining the offset for the intermediate idler gears. How did you determine the position of the idler gear axles?
Once everything was right, I powered up the mechanism to check where everything needed to go, and fixed it exactly in the position needed with either solder or glue (soldering was only done with the gears out to avoid melting the plastic). I was looking at it the other day wondering just how to go about powering it.Thank You so much for posting this.


So if you have both of those (as well as some sheet brass for the motor mount), you're good to go on stock materials!
The answer to the illness was to add a pair of turnouts, but it also meant that two sections of existing track would have to be replaced. Ballasting and weathering are considered a whole other project outside the realm of this particular endeavor. Then using a pair of rail nippers I made the 8 individual rail cuts ensuring all the turnout sections were in accurate positions.
So with my razor blade cutter I made 4 strategic straight line cuts at the edge of the existing track segments and then with the putty knife I pulled up the existing and exposed cork roadbed sections. A light hand sanding removes any burrs or unevenness that might have resulted from imperfections in the cork alignment.
Next I dropped in the turnouts to test fit them one more time before applying the adhesive. Within 10 minutes or so I power up the DCC system and test run a few locos and a consist with success. Go further right and across the river you will see the site of the Canadian Pacific Railway Ferry Ramp Locations.
I got a large model of one very similar to the one in the picture made by a local man in his upper 90's.
Probably a moot point, huh?  Also, theres still precious room for a little more lead sheet. And I will be filling every space I can with lead to give it more weight, because it only weighs about 2oz as it is. After that photo, we painted the pcboard ties to match the stained wood.A thin layer of Magic Water coated the thin strip off the wharf as well as filled in the carfloat quay.
After cutting the track rail sections and supporting tie plastic pieces I pulled up the track with a large putty knife.
Next I sanded down any loose remaining dried caulk and cork pieces to ensure a smooth surface on the plywood sub-roadbed. But before I lifted them up I took a pencil and marked on the cork roadbed the areas where the gray latex caulk would be applied and the areas to avoid. This was one river crossing, I gather back in the day there were others which haven't survived the developers. I always wondered if the intent was to finish it, or the published series was intended to just to get people started.
Then I ran the wet-dry vacuum over this area to remove any loose pieces of sanded material. The areas in and around the points and any moving parts need to be free of any adhesive for obvious reasons. For someone with the layout space available it is an extremely interesting railroad to consider modeling. Some of the old ties were salvaged as well for detailing track in exposed locations, another project for another day. This has a two-fold effect, first it gives the cork a similar background color as the future ballast and helps to blend in with the ballast, and second, it seals the cork which helps preserve it for years of worry free use.
The two smaller tanks are removable, and serve the dual function to cover the front two pairs of hinges:A removable power house will cover the back pair of hinges. As simple as it might seem this step greatly aided my ability to proceed with caution when piping out the caulk and then later spreading it on the cork roadbed. That simple warning note that Jack wrote ensured a critical step in the elaborate procedure was saved until the right time.



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