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Bear, with all due respect (ROFLMAO) to Charles Rous-Marten, I dare say that there's nothing absurd about the Class A.
My very similar 1873 Hohlenzollern (same gauge!) 0-4-0T is still going strong (in 1964) as was its prototype.
As for Old Betsy, that return-tube marine boiler was allegedly salvaged from a steam launch. I searched for this issue on another early rail group and one fellow went through 240 digitized old time tank car photos and only saw two with Fox trucks.
All of the RTR models I have bought were made around 2007 and later starting with the first run of SD40T-2's. Something to keep in mind is the Athearn SD45' is not based on the old blue box SD45 which had a wide body. But I do find the reponses interesting - some posters mentioning locos that I could not even told you that Athearn made, let alone differences from older to newer versions. But I would like to reinforce the point made by one poster, that it is hard to judge these products as group by brand name. I have a few old Model Rectifier AD series decoders I would like to test to see if they still function. I'm no expert but i suspect yes if you have the right address on the dcc system with full throttle on. Then you can read the voltage across the orange and gray wires with the motor running freely. You should not need a load on the motor orange and Grey wires to test but a 12- 16 volt grain of wheat lamp makes a nice test indicator. When you've seen the end of steam, plus the passage of 2+ complete generations of diesels, plus the end of pre-Amtrak passenger service, you reluctantly get used to changes like this.
Yesterday I attended a baseball game and wondered "How can a guy born in 1995 be playing major league ball?
Hello all, I posted a pic of this in WPF and said I was going to ask some ?'s so here goes!
Now what I am wondering is this, the kit came with some piers but they are not nearly tall enough, I bought some others to try and they also were short and if you stack them together it fits but looks very odd, and while I am no bridge expert I have to think that a bridge of this type and size would have to have some type of support under it, am I wrong in this thought?, the bridge really does not need it to support the weight of the N scale trains but I would like to be at least some what correct prototypically, so what are your thoughts on this issue folks, any suggestions would be helpful and as always thanks for reading! Thank you chutton01 and CNJ831 for your input on this, am I wrong in thinking that maybe this bridge type is just wrong for the space I am using it in? The simple alternative is to just place some tall stone piers below each end of the arch girders, as in the Aurora illustration.
Side mounted drives can be a pain to repower, tried in a couple of old bachmann steamers as test beds, you have to be incredibly precise on the location due to the size of the gears.
Every picture I've ever seen of any of them, even the heavier 40t and larger ones, they are not as tall as a freight car.


To give their model some weight, MDC dramatically exaggerated the size (height) of the diecast boxed I-beam frame of the car, raising the tank section to the sky.
I have two RTR Athearn units, one is flawless in operation, the other one, not as good as a well tuned BB that is still going on my layout, with added DCC. Dimensions are much more accurate, paint jobs are sharp and so is the basic body detailing. However, there are tread pattern decals on the market which I'll be buying for them soon. The improved RTR SW1500 is superior to the older BB SW1500-NOT the SW7 that was mislabled as a SW1500. The eariler RTR engines are supped up BB with plastic handrails.The later runs has grab irons,plastic handrails and some even have plows and sunshades. We all have perceptons of the various brands based on our experiances with the products that fit our modeling interests. Nickel-Silver wheels have replaced the old sintered ones, resulting in much more dependable electrical contact. Dogbone drive shafts have replaced the old 1-key sliding shaft type, resulting in less vibration and thus a more quiet drive. Shouldered truck gears have replaced the old full width truck gears, resulting in less drag against the gear boxes, and thus less noise and more effeciency.
Plastic worm gears have replaced the old brass worm gears, resulting in less noise and drag in the drive train. Wired contacts to the trucks have replaced the old metal strips (except for the original RTR's), resulting in more dependable operation. Nor do they have a reset, so you may have to do some bling programming to get the decoder to a known address. After all, I witnessed the birth and death of East Broad Top excursion service, with over 50 years in between!
Tiny little motor performed so flawlessly, that the competition, from France was sent packing early. Those places are fast becoming harder to find in some areas---do you know whether it is a private residence now or---?
This could take the form of veryical columns, or better, as extensions of the arches themselves to the canyon walls.
If you want to go for a realistic-looking solution, cut into you hillsides and remove the existing stone abutments.
The paper mill I used to switch in Wisconsin Rapids had a Plymouth just like yours but they had added a remote control to it. Haven't tried repowering mine yet because ithe body is going through On30 conversion surgery right now.


The actual prototype car on which the model is based had a far more normal appearance about it. A company like Athearn has such a large selection, that one modeler may be very unhappy with the set of products that fit his modeling, while another is completely happy with a different set of products that fit his modeling.
Athearn RTR's, Athearn Genesis, Kato, Atlas and Atlas (yellow box) with Kato drives, as well as Life Like Proto 2000.
If I connect the red and black wires to my track, will I get any multimeter readings from the Orange- grey and other wires ? Check the current draw of the motor first to be sure it isn't consuming more than the rated capacity of the decoder. If you have another lamp or lamps, you can connect one between the blue wire and each of the function wires. While other kids was playing sand lot baseball I was railfaning and my transportation was a Schwinn bicycle and my camera was a Kodak Brownie.
In the real world, as it stands now, your bridge would likely collapse with the first train that passed over it!
I am replacing the stock headlamp with directional lighting and a working light mounted over the fuel tank behind the cab, also if the light mount shifts it will short to the motor pickup contacts on one side, which is another reason for changing it.
Judging any model railroad product strictly by brand will leave you happily surprised with some, and disapointed with others. Make sure all connections are isolated from each other because any short between them will most likely6 destroy the function or motor control.
The carbodies of the second order, were built by Budd at their red Lion plant in Northeast Philly, then shipped to EMD, where the motors were assembled. Fit these back into the holes in you hillside, fitting them so that the leading edge of each stone abutment rests directly below the inside arc of the arch girder.
Plenty of room for a decoder BUT not with the stock motor unless you want to squeeze in an O scale decoder.
I also worked with them in the First decade of the current Milenium when I worked for Amtrak. Ouite a motor, Small, light, and capable of hauling a fully loaded Amfleet train at 125 MPH on a regular basis for years.
They were certainly more successful than the E60, or the HHP8, and could do things that the legendary GG1 could not do.



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