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Model railroad wiring is an extremely interesting facet of the hobby and definitely part of its appeal.
If you have just one cab to power your layout, you can run the wires from this cab to a terminal strip, which will then carry the power to the toggle switches for the different blocks (or you can use the Atlas slide switches which greatly simplifies this wiring process).Once you have this set up, the advantage of this type of model railroad wiring is that you can have several trains sitting in a€?blockeda€? freight yards, branch lines or team tracks, that wona€™t move when you want to power the train on your mainline.
In this situation, you have each cab connected to opposite poles of double pole toggle switches.
Using a track power bus in model railroad wiringA bus is a large 12-14 gauge wire that can serve as a common or ground wire to which a large number of feeder wires can be attached. Digital command control (DCC) is a newer form of model railroad wiring and train control in which each locomotive can be separately controlled from one power unit or from one walkaround throttle. Wye reversing tracks can be wired in the same way with the output from the auto reversing module attached to the isolated track rails.
If you would rather not purchase an auto reversing module right now, you can still wire it for manual toggle switch operation. Atlas makes a "Twin" switch which basically contains 2 DPDT switches to help simplify this wiring. If you have a layout with any more than a simple oval, You should consider using a control panel - a central place, or hub, for your model railroad wiring, where all your switches, transformers and basic trackplan resides for you to electrically control everything that happens on your layout.
That's probably enough for now - I will try to get a photo of the set up under the control panel in the next day or so.
This is for DC users only, --------- but this kind of wiring is still needed for DCC if you intend to go this way. For DCC, although there are only 2 wires in use at the controller end, you will still have the need to wire (If using electro frogs) the layout as if you were going to use block control, (but without the need for DPDT toggle switches). When 2 facing turnouts come together, the need for isolation between these areas is a must otherwise a short will occur. All that remains to do now is to pick up all these wires (Lets say they were all Black and Red wires) and solder each Black wire together and the same for the Red and now you have 2 wires ready for DCC. So for those how are about to start in the wonderful hobby of ours, here’s how I have always wired a model railroad up to a control panel. Once all your track and points (turnouts) are down and ready for wiring, first make a simple drawing of your Trackplan on an A4 sheet of paper. This Trackplan above is not any particular plan, just a way of showing how to wire up the track & Points. Once you have daisy chained the top rights of every switch, start TOP left to TOP left and so on until all switches have been daisy chained in this manner. Making the control panel it 'self, I use two pieces of Perspex the right size for my panel. When all drilling is completed, I remove the plain paper and clean up the two pieces of Perspex.


For my point control I use the stud and contact method utilizing a capacitor discharge unit (CPU), which has a 24volt output for my PL10 point motors which I use to throw the points. Here is what my control panel looks like, notice the nuts and bolts, these are my stud and probe contact for changing point direction. Well with DPDT switches, you can only ever run one train on one piece of track at the same time. Aso that probe system is cheap, just nuts and bolts plus a piece of wire with a bit of wire i=on the end. I know there have been some older discussions on this subject, however I would like to see photos of your panels with a discription of how it was constructed and wired.
This one was built to try out Atlas's new Code 55 switches.I used Tortoise Switch Machines with indiacator lights. Hi, Here is a panel made much as PAL describes,with dry transfer lettering on the front of the panel and light overspray of clearcoat.
An older iteration of the panel for my hidden staging yard when I was planning on using a mixture of 2-cab DC plus Dynatrol Command Control (before DCC came on the scene).
Is it better to use the LED plastic holders or just glue the LED directly into the hole in the panel?
Brendan (bdennis) didn't mention how he made his Delanson panel, but it is a very elegant solution (IMO). Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers. The bi-colour controllers are especially good as all it takes is a glance to check that your proposed route is all green lights.
Now because you have added wires to power up this area, and most likely other facing points (Turnouts) in other parts of the railroad, you will end up with many pairs of wires dangling underneath. Now I insert the new Photo Paper printout and I have a professional looking control panel just waiting to be wired up. The reason I prefer stud and contact over momentary switches (To throw the points) is I only need two tiny nuts and bolts (Brass) fitted to each point on the control panel.
10 position rotary switches are about $1.50 here, so that will let me run up to 8 different controllers, with the 2 extra positions (one each end) being reserved for 'emergency off!' situations (rotate the knob in either direction to the stop!). The double pole double throw switches are only for switching between one controller and another. The panel is printed on paper, which is then laminated and affixed to a sheet of MDF board.
If your 6 or 12-volt unit has connectors on the back specifically marked for AC then you can use it for this purpose.
In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois).


You will notice that I have included the use of two controllers in this loop, should you wish to use either controller to reverse a loco. When finished I print one copy on plain paper and another on Photo paper at top quality to use as the finished product.
Also because I use a CPU, if I did leave the probe pressing against the bolt, it wouldn't damage the point motor because the probe needs to be taken off before the CPU re-charges itself ready for work again. First and most important it saves on a bit of wiring and labeling, pretty hard to go wrong there, point where you want to go and open the throttle.
The only real advantage I see in using rotaries versus DPDT's, as Paul uses, is that you can only EVER have one controller on one block at any given time. IIRC, the LED indicators are made by punching holes in the printed panel artwork before it is laminated, and then drilling small holes in the MDF below the hole, and press-fitting the LEDs in the holes in the MDF from behind.
Even if you are using standard insulfrogs, if you want proper block control, then I would suggest that you follow these instructions as for Electro frogs. Looking at the Trackplan you will notice that the outside tracks have three RED power supplies (3 blocks), and the inner tracks also have three RED power supplies (3 blocks.) with one single RED power supply in the middle feeding back the spur. The LEDs sit flush behind the laminated artwork, so the finished product has a very smooth look to it. Make sure the joint is smooth as you run your finger across it, and especially that the inner aspect of the rail has no obstruction, in order to avoid derailments.______________________________Types of model railroad wiring for train controlMost of us will start out with just one transformer to control our one train. Also with larger layouts, it is helpful to use a€?walkarounda€? throttles or cabs, so the operator can follow his train around the layout.
Use plastic hooks on the underside of your layout to carry these wire bundles from one place to another. The wire connected to the negative terminal on your power pack must then be connected to the other rail which carries the electrons back to the power unit. You won't be able to use bus wires for the lighting and the accessories or turnouts because you will want to control each of these things separately with a switch on your control panel.
One book in particular, Creative Effects for your Model Railroad, by Paul Newitt, is a goldmine of information on basic model railroad wiring, but also includes all kinds of special electrical effects specifically for model railroads, including signaling, sound effects, electroluminescence, automated track circuits, animation effects, smoke and fire simulation, etc. If you have a section of track that loops around and reconnects to itself (reversing loop), I would strongly recommend that you buy an auto reversing circuit for this.



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