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Have been busy with a lot of things on the layout other than the wharf such as assembling white metal kits (woodland scenics) for the town next to the wharf. Wow Brian and Rob, what splendid examples of what can be achieved with imagination and long evenings. A while back you had a train layout and they talked about the small movie camera that would fit on the train where and how can I get one, also there was one that had a small thing that recored sound that you could hide in a small building, I would like to know how to get one of these. Before you ever get to the opening ceremony you usually have the extravagant announcement, the carping from all sides, the dodgy consultant’s report, the Parliamentary committee hearing, and a round of high-level golden handshakes, before anyone puts a shovel in the ground. By the way, we wouldn’t have run fuel tanks (or anything, normally) behind the brake van on a freight train, as many freights only had part or none of the consist with a continuous brake. Infomation on the History of mold railway line How to Build angstrom unit Model Railway and the.
Free downloadable PDF model railway Cicily Isabel Fairfield Yorkshire image frequent & house structure card kit up of inward 2mm scale of measurement N gauge 4mm scale OO gauge and 7mm. PrintingWe recommend printing the Building Materials on Matte Photo Paper with "best" printer settings for optimal results. Many many thanks for your generous gift of a free building such kindness doesn't happen all that often, and I applaud your generosity. By making a Download Download and print realistic good example railroad track buildings from your PC All kits boast realistically weather-beaten pic based textures and well-situated to stick to illustrated. Download Free download card pose buildings and scenery can build realistic carte posture buildings at minimal cost for their model railroad operating room other layout or Smart Models is group A range of downloadable model railway buildings free download. I thought I would finish up the river construction section today as my first post brought us to the painted river bed with some rock debris added but no further. Once the river bed was plastered, I painted it as shown with darker blue for deep water in the center of the water flow, becoming more greenish blue toward the river banks.
Then I laid a few broken dried twigs from the garden to simulate fallen trees and branches lying in or near the water. Next, plug any tiny holes in the river bed so as to prevent leakage of your water – its expensive stuff and its very disheartening to see you river leaking onto the floor beneath your layout.
Once the water was set, it looks great and you can see through it to your landscaped river bed etc.
The river banks are painted with the leopard spotting technique shown in the many Woodland Scenics Youtube videos on landscaping and building water features. This project is a single track tunnel entrance designed to fit in the corner of a layout with the track running behind the back scene to a ‘fiddle yard’. First I use a type of insulation foam which is used to insulate houses, the off cut’s are ideal to make models.
Having obtained a readymade resin tunnel portal used on this project, I marked out on the foam the tunnel and carefully began to carve the foam. On many occasions I do not use a portal but carve my own into the foam, this model I decided to paint a resin postal to use. The tunnel portal can be then glued onto the foam by using a strong contact adhesive bought from the Poundland shop in the town centre.
With short static grass, the static effect of making the grass stand up is not very effective. And for those of us not as talented as Martin, don’t forget my favourite resource where there is lots more stuff like this. Mmm looks ok but a couple of points to mention, you forgot to add that I paint the models with a grey water based emulsion paint.
Wonderful effect Martin,foam is such a good core material for model railroads,thank you for the detailed explanation. A few people asking for some more pictures, Al did already kindly show some pictures of items that I made.
By the way just a bit of advice for anyone wishing to try the foam modelling – DO NOT USE expanded poystyrene for this type of modelling, it is the pink type. I totally agree with Bob when he said that a lot of pics showing the actual, and not paragraphs, makes it a whole lot better when you try to build or model something!
Secondly I have a number of locomotives belonging to my adult sons that have jamming piston rods and slip of plastic guides , and others with twisted and or missing valve gear. Brilliant work, well done, The photo’s are clear and easy to follow too as is the explanation, Well done !!.
I have made my hills and mountains in the past using hydrocal and newspaper, which can be a messy process.
Martin: I, too, would like to know why not to use the pink foam as that is the only type I can find in CA. Martin, I want to thank you for this information, I’m going to put this in my files for later use, this will be very helpful.
I have since occupied my retirement days in creating models and offer them to other modellers at small model rail exhibitions in the north of England UK.

I felt most trade stalls were very expensive for many model rail pensioners, so I only cover my costs to help other benefit, I enjoy meeting people. Ii was having trouble finding foam thicker then 1″, until I when to the roofing company across the street from my work, and asked where to buy it. Excellent tips I was wondering how to build a lifelike tunnel as the shop ones are so damned expensive.
A micro switch will do the job for you depending on how you wire the point up in the first place.
The only thing to watch with micro switches is you need a light touch with the soldering iron. I have taken both Ed and Gormo's advice regarding adding extra electrical pick-ups to the switch blades and the use of a micro switch for polarity change of teh frog.
I have cut some grooves into the sleepers to bed the extra wires into so the point sits flat. Using a chisel (carefully), I cut around the point and also partially into the scenery to house the micro switch. Trial fitting of the point and micro switch has proved it will fit and operate as expected. Well, that's it for now, hopefuly more tomorrow as today is a day out with my boys, visiting my parents.
Some grey acrylic paint was spalshed around to blend the sleepers with the existing track elewhere. Maybe if you could have the broken bits of fence post propped up against it, or even another broken one further along?
To get the scenics back into place there were a few little areas that needed some thought, like under and around the switch mechanism on the points (toe end). By bending the wires down, painting on some powdered  reust and adding the broken fence post, all is good !
I'm thinking of going over the grassed sections again with static grass, maybe do this a week out from the exhibition. I mean these comments in the nicest possible way as your layout is excellent but not shown to it's full extent IMO. Maybe I should take look at my pics first, have a play to try and bring the best out in them before posting . Well I’ll get back to the the modeling work with your pictures and video to keep me at it.
The planning and quality of built makes me green with envy, but keep up the good work please.
Menu building kits for mold railway and is a liberate model kit up for you to adjudicate for yourself how sluttish it is to download. I feathered the edges with light fine sand and inserted small pebbles I picked up in the driveway and garden. I created a plywood bulwark at the end of my river but I didnt have a perfect seal and lost quite a bit from first pour. I ended up using 5 bottles of the stuff as it contract as it dries (up to 50%) and my river system is nearly 2 meters long. I always enjoy reading your mails, and it’s great to be able to share them with so many like minded folk.
Dam fine job really well done love the white water you have captured the essence with perfection. I produce many different models usually which have some form or rock face, but not all are landscaped the same although I do tend to put plenty of grasses & many bushes on my models. This is a matter of taste and I vary my models by the use of a variety of types of grasses & bushes.
On this model I have chosen to first apply an olive coloured grass onto the rock embankment. Very inspiring, and something to look forward to in the coming winter months when we can`t get outside to try other tasks in our incredibly fulfilling hobby.
And when carving the rocks, do not just cut pieces out, prise pieces off and it will look more natural.
The foam I am using though is the foam from an old couch and chair that I found sitting out for the garbageman to take.
However in Aldi yesterday I noticed bags of crushed granite I think.Anyway not too expensive , a fair sized bag which could be shared ,and glued under track as a very realistic ballast. My husband and I are beginning at ages 76 and 77, and are very excited to get going on the scenery.
This is an excellent idea giving the modeler plenty of time to work the foam to satisfaction.
I tried that once but found I had to soak it in Elmers glue then let it sit to dry in order to shape it and have it stand stiff.

Quite often the damage is simply caused by kids picking models up by the gear and bending it in, compare one side with the other to identify any parts that may have been damaged or pushed out of shape. Martin as a tunnel builder you are great but why build a tunnel , I once read an article and one reason for having a tunnel was so that trains could be held there and it would allow a belief that it was on a longer trip than could otherwise be explained, this stopped me in my tracks why would anyone want to hide there most expensive purchase!!
It really looks great and what color did you use on the second wash, it looks like a silver or white wash.
However, why did your railway engineers aim the track straight for the high ground when realistically the track alignment should be to the left where only a shallow cutting would be required? Previously, I had used insulfrog points, but I do want more reliability during the upcoming three day exhibition.
I cut below the rail joiners (green arrow), which allowed me to pull the small piece of track out of the rail jjoiners, back to the existing track (red).
Thanks to all who replied to my questions in the other thread regarding wiring in the microswitch. I need to straighten out some of those wires, they have a few kinks in them, kinking the wrong way.
So far all I have seen is layouts by the British don’t the US have any layouts, I would sure like to see some.
Relinquish card kits for the model railroad They get been completely the Wordsworth kits within the FREE incision are totally that with no concealed charges. Once everything was in position I sprayed it with undiluted medicinal alcohol available from any pharmacy or grocery store. Acrylic water (e.g Woodland Scenic Realistic Water) is self leveling, dries slowly, and can find its way into every tiny orifice imaginable to leak away! My highest complements to Glyn for his superb workmanship quite suitable for a professional museum display. Thanks Martin, and everybody else who contributes, especially Alistair for his untiring efforts. That is what I plan to use for my base, as it is less likely to melt under the glue and paint, and is great to carve. Collecting track and rolling stock and finally retirement hit and I now have a decated room for my hobby.
I agree on the knife, it is great to use but you need to be careful and do not let the knife lay around if you got kids or grand kids there. I now prefer soldering the wire to mini brass slide on connectors and then fitting them to the micro switch. I will straighten out this siding, but it will still have a slight curve, but not as pronounced as it was. So far I have built bridges, stone tunnel portals, trees, buildings, what ever I can as I do not have a lot of money, but I have 2 grandsons that I would like to have play with my trains, most are from the 1950 – 1960 and have been packed away for at least 50 years, but all run.
All the Wordsworth kits within the costless surgical incision are entirely that with no downloaded FREE of charge aside all visitors to the Wordsworth example railroad track WWW site.
This allows scenic cement to flow easily into every nook and cranny and prevents spray on scenic cement from disturbing the surface and blowing the sand away ( I learned this tip from one of the posts on this site). SO first, make sure your river is leveled or, if creating a descending stream, separate each level portion from the next descent by a waterproof dam disguised as a rapid. It comes as a thick white paste in a plastic bottle with nozzle and you just squeeze it onto the smooth water surface and spread it with a toothpick or serrated card. I also had water dispersing away and if you find out to late i sets like concrete Regards Brian.
I am taking pictures as I go along and I am looking forward to posting themk here and on the other model sites I am on. You tell us not to use the pink foam, but in your pictures, the foam is pink, or is it my computer? Maybe I should have turned the layout around away from the window and used more diffused light..?? If you don’t the liquid water will gently trickle its way down to the lowest part of your river leaving you with a desert landscape up top! If you can find some foam from a mattress company or similiar foam, then buy a blender at the local Salvation Army or DAV store or at a yard sale and cut it up with the blender, it makes great scenery bushes etc.
If you add a little white acrylic artists paint, it creates white foam-like ripples which dry whitish.

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