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Click here to remove banner ads from this forum.This Forum Is Hosted For FREE By ProBoardsGet Your Own Free Forum! Step 2: Removing the body shellThe dome car's body shell is easily removed by grasping one of the trucks in your thumb and forefinger, and gently inserting a fingernail between the base of the car and the body and popping it up. Step 3: Inserting the contact leadsThe leads will only fit into place on one side of the car, and should be inserted as shown here. Step 4: Assembling the LED fixture part 1You will need to assemble the light fixture before you can set it in place. Step 5: Assembling the LED fixture part 2If you are installing the orange filter, do so by installing it into the mount as shown here. Step 6: Placing the LED fixtureThe newly assembled LED fixture will set into place on the car's base as shown.
Step 7: Trimming and placing the foil stripIf you wish to illuminate the dome as well as the rest of the car, you will need to trim the foil strip into two pieces that will fit into the space on either side of the Dome indentation. Step 9: Finishing upReplace the body shell, taking care to put any window parts back into place and making sure that the body shell is oriented correctly on the body.
Google Ads are only seen by non-members of RMweb - Create an RMweb account and you'll only receive modelling ads. If you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner it removes the yellow wax completely.I have one of those, I will have to try some of my FUD bits and see how they clean up.
David, the CAD files are safely backed up on a steel-cased external hard drive - I'm not taking any chances. I'm also planning to modify the CAD model to make it suitable for OO scale if anyone is interested in a larger version.
I've now given the model a careful clean with acetone, which has removed the remaining yellow wax from the printing process and exposed some of the detail which was previously hidden.
Back last year I had a go at building a 1938 stock train in N scale, mainly just to see if it was possible. I have not tried this technique for myself but it clearly has potential and I look forward to following your progress. Nice work - any chance you will make them available to others through the Shapeways shop once you have done the intermediate cars?
Thanks all.As a curiousity, how long did it take for your machine to perform the re-scaling? All the current generation tube stock trains have a distinctive type of flush glazing with a black area around the edge of the pane, which I puzzled for a while over the best way to represent. I have been playing with some 1959 tube stock and have been looking at the TM05 as a solution.
Following several more coats of paint and lots of sanding I thought I'd post another couple of pics to show how the 95 stock is getting on. I'm VERY interested in the same process for producing some models fo otherwise unobtainable locomotive types (and I suspect i may have some of the same things in mind as Southernboy). Have I understood correctly here though - you have a CAD package which enables you to produce computerised 3-D image files; and you then send these image files to a company called Shapeways who turn them out as models of whatever it is you have drawn in the CAD package? I'm going to have to take a bit of time getting my head round that, but I'm sure I'll manage.
For me it's not the ability to create complex curves that is the thing, but the ability to create one-off (or two or three-off) models of prototypes that aren't in huge demand and so wouldn't interest the mainstream manufacturers. One question I did have, where would be a good source for wheels and axels for the unpowered coaches here in europe?

Despite not modelling in N, the idea came into my head the other day to have a go at building a train of 1938 tube stock in that scale, pretty much just to see if it is possible. Bluebell was charging full RRP for them, so I wasn't interested in buying any, but will be interesting to see if they end up in the bargain bins after the 2012 games. There are some Japanese N scale tram chassis on the market now which some are using to power N scale tube stock, but be warned they are expensive.
Hi I have motorized one of these corgi tube trains with a japanse low level motor fits a treat once drill down the corgi metal stumps.
So all this means that Hornby's range of Olympic trinkets actually includes something of potential use to some railway modellers that is available from at least one outlet at what looks like a realistic price.
Make Sure to keep track of the orientation of the body shell versus the base as it will make life easier when it comes time to reassemble the car.
When correctly placed they should slide the full length of the groove in the interior detail plate.
The light fixture in the 11-209 and 11-210 kits consists of three pieces: the mount, the LED board, and the optional orange filter. Once this has been done, the LED circuit board will lock into place with its flat side facing away from the plastic, and its two metal pin connectors sliding into the little grooves in the white plastic mount.Finally, Cut a small square from the foil sticker provided with the kit that is the size of the board and attach it to the exposed, brown, flat side of the LED board. You can, if you wish, simply run the strip uncut across the roof of the car but then you will not get any light diffusion into the upper dome area.Measuring and placing the foil strips can be made simpler if you remove the windows from the car beforehand.
If it bows out at the sides when placed, it is on backwards and will need to be flipped around (and possibly the light tube position changed accordingly).The dome of the car will light up very subtly and only be visible in very low light conditions, much like the real car.
I used the free version of Sketchup, plus two programs recommended by Shapeways for file conversion - Meshlab and Accutrans - and Netfabb as recommended by BobD for error correction. Seeing what you have done, and the costings, has inspired me to have a play myself, whether I ever get to the printing stage is another matter though. The computer I use for CAD work is currently having its screen replaced, but as soon as I get it back I'll upload the intermediate car and make both it and the driving car available to order from Shapeways.
After a lot of work I came to the conclusion that in theory it was, but in practice there were too many problems with the method of construction.
Presumably (since it is just a mathematical process) it would take the same amount of time to reduce to any chosen scale? Presumably (since it is just a mathematical process) it would take the same amount of time to reduce to any chosen scale?My first attempt at re-scaling was still going after 24 hours, at which point I decided it probably wasn't ever going to finish.
In the end I have decided to try using thin transparent plastic which will fit into an inset in the bodyshell. I'll add that the Kato Portram does have two separate powered bogies, so one should be enough for at least a four car train. It would be necessary to check the dimensions, but it is theoretically very close for size. However they seem to be out of stock at all the suppliers I can find online, while Portrams are readily available from Gaugemaster among others. I am an american living in germany, and I make it a habit to get at least one piece of equipment from each country I visit. I am aware that I will loose the interior and underbody details, but I am planing on salvaging as much as I can from the included under body and add it to the power chassis. Here's a bit more progress made this evening.The cab front piece on its own and in a dry run with the sides and rood to check fit.
I'm working on the rebuilt roof (the first attempt was badly out of true) and have applied and filed to shape the first layer of the filler that forms the cab roof dome.Meanwhile all the parts which are needed for the running gear have been gathered together.

Next challenge is the non driving car once done one of them will post t again as it will then be possible to make a 3 cat set. The orange filter may be utilized to give the interior lights a "warmer" and more subdued color or it can be left off to give the lights a brighter and more flourescent appearance. Minimal floor lighting was necessary to allow passengers to see out of the windows during the night, providing just enough illumination for them to walk without danger of tripping. I'm now trying to re-scale each module of the train individually, which should be a bit less of a strain on my computer.
The inset can be painted black before fitting the glazing to recreate the effect seen on the prototype.I thought that might be what you had planned - given you have the dimensions on computer, are you going to get the glazing laser cut?
I also made a couple of modifications to the model - adding cab front door handrails, the handle hole on the cab side door, and fine grooves to represent the joins between each door and the car body or adjacent door panel. Gaugemaster also list the Portram chassis as available for about half the price of the complete vehicle, though it is not currently in stock.
It is very easy to learn, and with some practice can be used to create complex models like the tube train and Enviro 400 bus , but does have some limitations in making very complex curved shapes. The roof uses two layers of 0.5mm styrene, with cut outs in the top layer to represent the doors, over several formers for the curved shape on a 1mm base layer to give it strength. The nearest I have come to building a body from scratch was to build new bodysides for a Little Bus Company Q27 DM. It's made using the same method, thin white styrene over a clear base layer, although I am using slightly thicker clear plastic at the ends for extra strength. This Kato Portram from the Ffestiniog Railway model shop will be sacrificed to provide two tiny motor bogies. A bit of light sanding and a few fine coats of primer should also improve it further.The chassis slightly resembles a banana, but the body is very rigid so when the two are together everything should be fine. Fortunately this has given me the opportunity to make a couple of improvements to the model before getting it printed.What are your plans for glazing? I am planning on doing a full consist, but to keep my wife happy, I am only going to oder one a month. I don't know whether any of the European manufacturers produce any suitable wheels - they need to be a bit smaller than for most N scale rolling stock - but something designed for very low flat cars, roll-on-roll-off lorry transporters, or trams may be the right size. Thanks to Bernard for enabling their existence in the first place!Here's a bunch of screws, washers and nuts from Eileen's Emporium at Warley last Saturday which should form the bogie pivots and attach the car bodies and chassis together. One question I have; are these wheel sets sold like the american prototype where one is consitered 2 wheels and an axel, usually assembled? For the 95 stock I am using Frosted Ultra Detail, which can take details down to 0.1mm and has a very smooth surface for a printed model.
The level of detail possible and quality of finish has improved rapidly over the past few years and looks like it will keep on getting better.
I have some of these wheels in my parts bin, I will check them against the unpowered coach when I order it. Also, my understanding is that the current prices are largely determined by the cost of using the machines for the time taken to print the model, rather than raw material costs, so as the technology matures prices should hopefully fall considerably.
With regards to writing up the project for publication, I'm not actually a member of the N gauge society, but I'd be happy to write an article if anyone asks.

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