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The special trains will halt at Tatanagar, Raurkela, Bilaspur, Raipur, Nagpur and Bhusawal. The Central Railways have decided to run eight air-conditioned super fast special trains between Howrah and Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) from April 9 to 30 in order to clear the extra passengers rush during summers. However, over the course of the four years I lived in Philly the trolleys saved me at least a few dollars and sometimes a few minutes, so I reserve a special spot in my heart for those uncomfortable plastic seats and their (perhaps unintentionally) brilliant motto. In the past, I’ve written about my love of Mumbai’s local trains, which although dangerously over capacity at all times nevertheless serve as the still-incredibly-functional arteries of a city with a constantly racing heart. I admit that before first moving to India in 2010 I fell deeply in love with the quirky, romantic, detail-saturated, and highly fictional “Darjeeling Express” featured in the Wes Anderson movie of the same title.
Yes, flying from Mumbai to Kolkata conveniently took me less than 2.5 hours and yes, the return journey by train took me ten times as long, but in addition to carrying passengers between major cities, the railway that took me to Mumbai also transported a total 975,160,000 tons of freight in just one year (*2011-2012 Indian Railways “Review of the Year,” the most recent data available).
And what better place to stand in awe of these miraculous numbers than the Howrah Railway station, the oldest and largest railway station in India.
On Tuesday, October 7th, after spending a glorious two weeks in the land of Tagore documenting the work of my co-Fellows Andrew, Laura, and Yojna (more on them soon), I took an early-morning taxi across the Howrah Bridge and made my way to platform twenty-one.
Although I’ve traveled extensively on the Indian railway system over the past few years, this trip was unique in two ways: the first being my first class ticket. Until my trip on the Duronto Express, the longest train ride I’d ever taken was an overnight from Delhi to Mumbai, which clocked in around 18 hours total. Over the course of the journey, we passed through West Bengal, Jharkhand, Odisha and Chhattisgarh, and across the entire span of Maharashtra. I did a lot of writing, sleeping, and chatting while on the train time, but I spent most of my hours simply gazing out the window. Notes from my journal: As we move across the country, I’m struck once again by the rice paddies—an infinity of vibrant stalks rising out of earth pounded by the feet of running children. When we finally pulled into Mumbai CST, I was both ecstatic at the prospect of stretching my legs and showering, and a bit sad to have reached the end of the journey. Situated on the fertile western banks of the river Hugli, Howrah is the smallest district of West Bengal. This site is a part of India Online Network – India’s Largest Online network of 475 websites. Most Philadelphians find SEPTA’s antiquated “Subway-Surface” trolley lines to be rather slow, and many denizens of the city opt for transportation by car, bicycle or foot. The fact that I find the trolleys and their slogan endearing as opposed to infuriating is in keeping with my patient appreciation for transportation systems that some may find anachronistic in the age of Uber and major monorails (see Mumbai’s new, as yet impractical example of the latter ) but which I find marvelous for the sheer endurance of their service. Now, I’d like to wax poetic for a moment about the breathtaking creature known as the Indian railway system.
Since then, my love for the railway has matured; I still appreciate how intensely colorful it is and, take comfort in knowing that in times of literary struggle I can always turn to it as a clunky, cliche metaphor for the journey of life (so complex! In the same year, “8,224 million ‘originating’ passengers generated 1,047 billion passenger kms.” In other words, there were a total of 8,224,000,000 unlinked passenger trips in the year 2011-2012, each averaging 127 km. The Howrah station sits directly across the river from the gorgeous city of Kolkata, and is a point of convergence for the Eastern and South Eastern Railways. I’ve traveled in 2S (Second-Class, Non-AC seats) for local and interstate trips; and in SL (Sleeper, two or three bunks, Non-AC) and 2AC (Second class, two bunks, AC) for long overnight trips.


Living in Mumbai’s smoggy, overwhelmingly urban embrace, it can be easy to forget that so much of India remains so green. I keep my eyes peeled for signs of life in the mass expanse of crops, and jump when I catch fleeting glimpses of women rocking like gyrostabilizers under the bales of hay they balance on their heads.
White birds flap long wings and the woman who shares a seat with me wraps her sari tighter. The Indian railway system is complex and expansive, and in many cases it can take twenty-six hours or more to reach your intended destination. Despite being the smallest, the district has shown immense potential in terms of overall growth and development and this has been possible only because of the constant development of the transport and communication infrastructure. The station complex is composed of two parts: the “Old Station” for platforms one through sixteen, and the “New Station” for platforms seventeen through twenty-three.
For a number of reasons both financial** and personal, I’ve always shied away from the first class option. Telephone poles and their faint lines are apparitions rising from the dust and my, does the dust rise! The landscape is flat, then hilly, then flat again, with trees and fields and one-story houses made colorful by paint, all with distinctly flat rooftops.
She has been looking out the window for the past nine hours now, with perhaps a half-hour nap to break her gaze.
There are small, mud houses in the foreground, cows tethered outside, the slow rise of smoke from a cooking fire, and clothes hung out to dry.
However, we—along with millions of tons of freight, and billions of other passengers each year—are indeed getting there.
Age has diminished if not removed the virtue of patience necessary for any interaction with Indian Railways. A huge impetus was provided to the industrial development in the year 1854 with the establishment of the Howrah Railway Terminus.Since then, over the next 150 years, a massive development in the transport system of Howrah was observed when the National Linkage of Howrah was established with the rest of the country. However, the second unique thing about this trip—the distance—is what in the end convinced me to take the 1AC plunge.
We pass each junction—the names painted in thick, black, block letters across sun-yellow boards—where people wait with large sacks; they carry everything I can imagine, and so much I cannot. The intra and inter regional transport and communication is now looked after by the roadway based services while the massive network of railways provides the commodity and passenger linkages at the national level. So many strides of legs, so many hands spinning rotis, so many minds learning, so many tons of vegetables lifted onto shoulders.
And soon, a paved road leading parallel along the train track, and a dozen women in sparkling saris walking along it.
Thus, this extremely well connected transport system is one of the prime factors of the growth and development of Howrah.Buses in HowrahBuses serve as the primary means of mass transport in Howrah in terms of short distance for the common people of Howrah. The use of buses for long distance communication is not much in vogue though, but it is sufficient to cater the minimum needs of the citizens.
The bus services in Howrah can be classified into three categories depending upon their destinations and trip generation system.
They are namely Within Howrah Bus Services, Howrah Kolkata Bus Services and Long Distance Bus Services.


The Within Howrah Bus Services consists of Mini, Private and Executive buses connecting the interior parts of Howrah.The private and mining buses ply on over 24 and 34 bus routes respectively with a fleet strength of 666 and 821 respectively maintaining urban linkages with Kolkata. There are also 73 other routes for private (31 routes) and executive buses (42 routes) present dedicated to intra regional communication, with a 346 and 185 fleet strength respectively. Due to their efficiency, the public demands of these services are constantly increasing over each year.Howrah and Kolkata, situated on either sides of the river Hugli, constitute one of the busiest regions in eastern India. Connected by the three famous bridges namely Ravindra Setu, Vidyasagar Setu and Nivedita Setu, buses serve as the chief means of transport between the two cities. Thousands of people commute through these routes everyday for various purposes.About 2600 buses ply on these bridges daily bound for about 148 distinct routes meant for 14 different buses. Demands of long distance buses is not so great as the other routes due to the effective functioning the Howrah Railway Terminus and other sub-urban railway stations, but in the interior parts, inter district bus services are available connecting Howrah with its neighboring districts.Trains in HowrahThe Railway System is the most notable feature of the transport in Howrah as it boasts of the National Railway Terminus, popular as the Howrah Railway Station, which is the oldest and the largest of its kind in India.
A confluence of two different railway zones namely the Eastern and South Eastern zones, the Howrah Railway Subdivision comprises of 13 urban stations and 30 rural stations.Over 190,000 urban passengers and 173,000 rural passengers avail this form of transport to enhance their suburban communications. The trains ply on 6 different lines linking Howrah and Kolkata with different parts of the state as well as the country from this station.
The Shalimar Railway Terminus also acts as an important junction of different railway routes.Local Transport in HowrahTaxi, auto rickshaw, trekker and the ferry services constitute the local transport in Howrah. They remain subjected to very high public demand, especially in the innermost corners of the district where the availability and frequency of buses is alarmingly low.
These forms of transportation are in vogue as they are less time consuming in terms of short distance and are comfortable too compared to the services provided by buses, but they are slightly more expensive than buses.Trekker ServicesThe trekker services come next to buses as far as their popularity is concerned.
There are about 23 trekker routes spanning all over Howrah with about 270 trekkers plying every day.
They mainly look after the short distance rural communications where other conventional means of transport are not frequently available.Auto-Rickshaw ServicesThe auto rickshaw services rule the short distance trips in the urban areas in the city core of Howrah. The fares of this means of transport are very high compared to other means but the efficiency and comfort is unmatchable. About hundreds of taxis and private cabs are available at Howrah Railway Terminus for passengers both on the prepaid and meter basis.Ferry ServicesA very high dependency on waterways is evident from the constant ferry services plying across Hugli which remains navigable in every season. There are nine ferry ghats dedicated to connecting Howrah and Kolkata Municipal Corporations. 41 more ghats are present to connect other blocks of Howrah with adjacent districts of South 24 Parganas and East Midnapore. The waterways remain in demand for being fuel efficient, economic an eco-friendly.Metro ServicesTo diminish the work load on the other prevalent means of transport, the West Bengal Government proposed the East-West Metro Railway project (200-2005) to enhance the communications between Kolkata and Howrah.
It is hoped that after its completion, many transport related problems of Howrah will be solved.



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