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Okay, I have decided to try to put a tutorial in my vanity site, in hopes that iWeba€™s interface will make it quicker to bang this thing out.
If you dona€™t have a copy of iLife 08 (or of iMovie 6) read the above-linked Mac Rumors thread for more suggestions and ideas on how to get a copy on your Mac. Sometimes when I make clips for iMovie I leave out the audio (choose a€?No Sounda€?) since many fan videos mute the clipsa€™ audio anyway.
Select HDV 720p unless you are certain that the HD files you intend to edit are something else. Ia€™m going to assume that you have some familiarity with the workings of iMove 6, so I wona€™t explain all its features here. Click on the clock icon to go to timeline mode, and drag the timeline length (see pink arrow) to the far right so that you can more closely see the length of each clip you edit (as well as more clearly see the audio waveforms of your music).
It may take a few tries through the music track to get your rhythm down right, but soon youa€™ll find a a€?beata€? in the music, and so tap, tap, tap as the music finishes playing in iMovie.
If you mess up and want to remove a marker, place the playhead over the offending marker and hold down Option, Apple (aka Control) and the M key, and the marker will disappear. Sometimes, if you want to edit more precisely to the musica€™s timing, you can use the audio waveforms to help you figure out where a beat is in the music. Scroll through a clip and find the a€?Ina€? and a€?Outa€? points you want to use for that clip. Youa€™ve got your In and Out points selected in a clip, and everything in between (symbolized by the yellow colored strip in the screenshot to the left here) will be copied and pasted into your timeline by either going to a€?Edit > Copya€? or using the Apple+C keyboard shortcut.
However, if you like to drag your clips to the timeline and that works better for you, that is good too! In this screenshot, you see that the little yellow diamond (symbolizing a marker) is farther out than the ending of my clip.
I keep on going back and fiddling with the speed controls (Apple+Z used to undo, when I dona€™t go far enough or go to far) until finally I think I have it close enough. Now, to edit your whole video to the beat, just match up each clip to the markers like this. In my little video, I had a few spots where I made a white a€?flasha€? transition match up with a snappy sound in the music. You have two clips, and you want a transition between them, and you want the transition to match up with the beat of the music. For my a€?white flasha€? transition (I used a€?Wash Ina€?), I chose a shorter duration for the transition.
Youa€™re finished with your video, youa€™ve added your credits and titles, and now ita€™s time to get the thing out of iMovie and onto the Web! After youa€™ve set up all the video and audio and size options, click the Save button and wait for iMovie 6 to export out your fan video. FOR EXPORTING REGULAR DEFINITION (NOT HD) video made in iMovie 6, choose a€?Full Qualitya€? and then open the resulting .dv file in MPEG Streamclip to make a high quality MP4 or MOV file.
If you were editing in regular definition, you should have identified and chosen the correct project aspect ratio as you were setting up your iMovie 6 video. TUTORIAL KEYWORDS: Fan video, vidding, vidder, fanvids, fanvid, fan vid, editing an HD fan video in iMovie 6. It will take a little fiddling to get the transition timed just right and the clips placed just right, but soon youa€™ll get the hang of it!
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 7MAYTAG "NEWTON" MACHINES (for Maytag Performa and Atlantis models,see Chapter 7a)NOTE: Chapter 2 covers problems common to almost all washer designs. To see the video, scroll down this page and do a search for a€?Magic and Ecstasy.a€? Or view it on YouTube. But, this Mac Rumors forum thread gave me another idea on how to get iMovie 6 to work on my new Intel Mac Mini (running Snow Leopard!). This version of iMovie will only work if it detects that iLife 08 is installed on your Mac.
But I wanted to cover using markers to edit to the beat of your music, because not all vidders (people who make fan videos) know how to do this in iMovie.


Since I want to make this clipa€™s edge match up with the markers, Ia€™m going to slow down the clip so it meets the marker.
I can of course trim back the clip so that its edge now matches up with that marker, but Ia€™d prefer to have it a little less slowed down. That little bit of extra can be trimmed away, so the edge of the clip matches up with the marker placement. For more details and information on editing fanvids in iMovie 6, sign up for the FoolishPassion Fan Video Forums. THIS chapter covers only diagnosis and repairs peculiar to CERTAIN Maytag-designed machines. I had installed iLife 08 on an external hard drive attached to my Mini, and then installed iMovie 6. Many movies and TV shows are in widescreen so odds are youa€™ll be using that, but check the aspect ratio of your source clips to make sure.) This tutorial may help you understand aspect ratio. Ita€™ll take a while as iMovie imports and converts all the H.264 MOV files youa€™ve made into HDV, the video format iMovie uses for editing.
Then, switch iMovie to a€?timelinea€? mode and expand the timeline as l-o-n-g as it will go. As you edit and place clips in the timeline, you will notice that the edges of your clips will a€?snapa€? to the markers.
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!7-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe design uses a reversing motor, which is belted to both the pump and the transmission, using two different belts. As the music plays, start to tap, tap, tap on the M key (remember, you already are holding down Shift and Apple aka Command keys) to the beat of the music. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle. If you tap too frequently (more than once a second) iMovie will give you an error message about how you cana€™t do that. During agitation, the brake keeps the transmission casing from turning, and the drive pulley turns the transmission shaft.
During the spin cycle, the brake releases and the whole transmission starts slowly spinning around. At the end of the spin cycle, the motor stops and the brake brings the basket to a stop. In the late '80's, Maytag redesigned the transmission.
The result is the "orbital" transmission, which has just a few moving parts and is serviceable in the machine. Springs attached to the motor mounting plate keep tension on the belts. The pump reverses with the motor, but there is no recirculation. Follow the safety precautions described in section 1-4(2).To open the front of the cabinet, remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. In order to diagnose these machines, you need to keep the lid up far enough to look inside, without tripping the lid switch.
Replace as described in section 7-10. With the machine in "spin," look at the pump pulley beneath the machine with a mirror. If it is spinning, but water is not pumping, check for a clog in the hose between the tub and pump.
If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8.
If it does start with the load removed, turn the pump and transmission pulleys by hand, in both directions, to see which is locked up.
Note that the transmission pulley will normally be very stiff when turning it in the clockwise direction, as you look at the bottom of the washer.6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines as described in section 7-11. See section 7-13.7-4 PUMP AND PUMP BELTRemove the pump belt and check to see if the pump will turn freely by hand. Test as described in section 2-6(e). Maytag motors have a piggyback centrifugal starting switch. To make matters worse, the motor wire colors do not always correspond with the colors marked on the switch.


Whenever removing the motor or switch from the machine, mark which wires came off which of the switch terminals.Draw a picture if you must.
Make sure you differentiate in your notes between a motor wire and a wiring harness wire of the same color, and where each goes on the switch. If the drive motor does not start, try replacing the starting switch as described in section 2-6(e). If the motor STILL doesn't start, replace it. To remove the motor, first remove power from the machine.
Remove the plastic water shield from the motor, and mark and remove the wires. Remove the drive belts. Remove the four motor baseplate screws and lift the motor and baseplate out of the machine. Installation is the opposite of removal. Make sure you check the box that the new motor comes in for a wiring diagram.7-9 TRANSMISSIONI do not recommend the novice trying to replace a transmission in a Maytag washer, for several reasons.
And by the time you throw in a brake package, stem and seal kit, etc., it is usually just not worth it. If both break, there will be NO tension on the belts and in addition, the motor shaft will probably be hitting the washer baseplate, causing a heck of a racket. The roller tracks can get clogged up with dirt, soap deposits or other obstructions.
Lubricate the rollers and tracks with a little wheel bearing grease. Examine the condition of each belt as described in section 2-5(a).
Pump belt tension is explained in section 7-4.7-11 AGITATORMost Maytag washers have an agitator that lifts directly out.
These models have a rubber stop ring around the agitator shaft at the bottom of the splines. Block up the tub so the tub remains in line with the cabinet. Beneath the washer, in the center, is the brake package. The brake package changes the machine from the spin to the drain cycle and back when the motor reverses. It also brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle or when the lid is lifted. The brake lining is normally lubricated by a few drops of oil.
If the lining gets too dry, it can start squeaking at the very end of the spin cycle, when it is braking the basket. YOU MAY HURT YOURSELF OPENING IT, AND IT IS IMPRACTICAL FOR YOU TO TRY TO REBUILD IT YOURSELF. BRAKE PACKAGE REMOVALRemove the center screw from the driveshaft. This will help you to thread the brake package into the base plate without cross-threading it. With the tub blocked up, grab the bottom of the transmission casing and move it by hand until you can slip the brake package onto the splines. If you don't, you will be trying to overcome brake pressure to turn the package.Turn the transmission and brake package until the brake package is hand tight in the baseplate. While holding the transmission so it doesn't turn, run the drive pulley up as tight as you can by hand onto the helical shaft.You will see a drive lug on the pulley that corresponds to the shaft drive lug. Then turn the pulley gently clockwise until you just barely begin to feel the brake spring pressure.The shaft lug should be at about 9 o'clock from the pulley lug. If not, adjust the shaft lug on the splines. The idea is to get the pulley to bottom out on the helical drive shaft just as the drive lugs touch. If it is not correct, you will hear the drive motor bogging down and perhaps tripping on the overload during the agitation cycle.7-14 DAMPER PADSThe damper supports the weight of the water in the tub. Mark the position of the nuts on the three eyebolts (Figure M-15) and remove the bottom nuts. This will remove spring tension on the tub centering springs.Lean the washer back against the wall at an angle. Place a 4x4 wood block directly underneath the transmission pulley and lower the machine onto the wood block. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8.



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