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admin | I Want My Ex Back Now | 24.11.2013
Pompeii was one of those Greek settlements, eventually becoming the major port for shipping wines to Rome and beyond. By chance, my very first Fiano di Avellino was a rarity: a Colli di Lapio with 10 years of bottle age. Post-war, literally no one but Mastroberardino was commercially producing these archaeological wines. Romana harvests her fiano in late October, when ita€™s well mature, then ferments it to dryness in stainless steel and leaves it in contact with the lees (the spent yeast) for four to six months.
Would she ever consider holding back part of her production, the way Rioja producers routinely do, or mavericks like Luciano Sandrone are starting to do in Barolo? Over the years, Antonio Mastroberardino encouraged the best of them to start bottling wine under their own name.
I myself would choose a kylix drinking vessel, preferably one with pretty vine tendrils and a party-hearty Bacchus painted inside the bowl.
The grapes that Pliny the Elder enumerated in Natural History and Julius Caesar drank are alive and well in Campania felix (a€?fertile countrysidea€? in Latin), the breadbasket and playground of ancient Rome.
Today therea€™s no better place for an enophile to straddle the millennia like the god Janus, simultaneously looking forward and back.


Since 1878, the Mastroberardino winery had focused on Campaniaa€™s indigenous varietalsa€”what they call a€?archaeological vinesa€?a€”and it was Pieroa€™s father, Antonio, who saved them from extinction after World War II. Greco di Tufo and Falanghina are wonderful winesa€”both integral players on the team that put Campania at the pinnacle of Italian whites, alongside Alto Adige and Fruili-Venezia Guilia.
One such family was that of Clelia Romana, who founded the Colli di Lapio winery in 1994 up in the cool, wooded, mountain district of Avellino. Ita€™s part of the greening of archaeology happening around the world, with botanists like Pompeiia€™s Annamaria Ciarallo leading research teams to replant what once grew on those sites: sycamore trees to shade the athletesa€™ track, herbs and flowers for perfumers, olive trees in backyard gardens, grapevines behind the osterie that thicken as one approaches the gladiatorial amphitheater. Without the Mastroberardinos, there would be no Greco di Tufo, no Falanghina, no Fiano di Avellinoa€”the divine triad of Campaniaa€™s minerally whites. I dona€™t remember the vintage, but Ia€™ll never forget that fiano: Unlike most aged whites, it was daisy yellow in color.
It was they who founded Naples in 600 BC and colonized the coast, which was later gentrified by Roman emperors and aristocrats with sprawling summer villas whose porticoes stretched out to sea.
In Pompeiia€™s tiny urban plots, eight varietals from Plinya€™s list are now growing, including fiano, one of my favorite Italian white grapes. Ita€™s bracingly fresh and laced with minerality from the volcanic tufo of its namesake village.


Pliny noted how bees (api) favored fiano, particularly when its natural sweetness was enhanced by partially drying the grape, which he dubbed vitus apianae. And falanghina, also partial to volcanic soils and diurnal extremes, has had my blessing since we first crossed paths at a frienda€™s house in Milan. This fruity, accessible white was our versatile companion throughout a long evening, complementing multiple courses and lubricating our conversation until the wee hours. So in fact, one shouldna€™t sell fiano immediately, due to this.a€? But because of market demands and limited cellar space, her fiano goes out the door eight months after harvest.
Historians believe falanghina made the white version of Falernum, the most famous of Roman wines.
Petronius spoofed its cult in Satyricon (a€?guaranteed 100 years old!a€?), but Ia€™d wager he was talking about the aglianico-based red. That nighta€”then again this spring, when I found a dusty, decade-old Colli di Lapio in our cellara€”I discovered what discerning collectors know: Fiano di Avellino is a white that can age really well.



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