Barn door hardware do it yourself,wood shed building kits kansas,building wood shed plans review - Tips For You


After I painted our backdoor last week I realized that it was in desperate need of a new handle (somehow the home made 20 year old one wasn’t cutting it anymore).
For the backdoor I chose this beautiful clover leaf handle.  It is super heavy and slightly rustic looking in person. Laura and Ken have narrowed down the exterior house colors and shingles, so now it is time to focus in on the front door.
As you can see the options are quite extensive, from traditional to arts and crafts and ranging from no glass to almost all glass. After reviewing the options, Laura and Ken selected a model with more glass, to help bring light into the space.
I thought I would follow up yesterday’s post about my door hardware with some sources for old door hardware. I have bought cabinet hardware from here, but not door hardware, although their selection is pretty good.
Mostly known for their beautiful lights, they now offer all sorts of other house accessories including door hardware. Usually the prices are good and you have a better chance of finding a good match for what you have locally. We have almost all of the original 123 year old interior door hardware in our house and it is showing its age. Currently we have wooden door rosettes & key hole escutcheons (with the exception of the bathroom door which must have been replaced in the 1920s or so with a glass knob and metal rosette). March 4, 2015 by Jessie · 12 Comments You guys have seen our DIY barn door when I showed you our master bath, master bedroom, and DIY bed but I just recently realized I never gave a tutorial for it when a sweet reader asked.
I didn’t take pictures of the next step but I did draw a little diagram of how we glued and nailed on the top boards that give it some character. You could probably buy a latch lock that would be simple to add on from any home improvement store {kind of like you see in a hotel or apartment}.
The folks over at Paper Daisy Design built this four-panel door and you can do the same without spending very much. If you play it right, building a door out of dismantled shipping pallets can be the result of strategic salvaging and cost very little. If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now.
So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries. You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to.
Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up.
Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.
This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it. Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track.
I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. We are in the midst of a stomach bug epidemic, so life has been moving a little more slowly than usual.  The contractor was just here to go over moving the master bedroom door, discuss options for the bathroom door and the handrail and show him the plans for the electric.
He did think my linen closet was ridiculously small (hey, I don’t have one, so any closet no matter how small is an upgrade).
I had been eying a different ceiling fan but I saw this one (Acqua Ceiling Fan II in Textured Bronze) for a great price on Joss & Main and decided to go ahead and order it.
The front door is such an important part of the house, it is not only where people first come into the house (and wait while you open the door) but it is also something that you touch. They are fortunate and the entry is a double height space, so they can take advantage of the light from transom above the door. I would finish it off with a number like this in paint or vinyl (idea originally from the first issue of Blueprint Magazine) in black just below the glass.
There are quite a few nice backplates and knob sets for sale at quite reasonable prices, especially if you are willing to give them a good cleaning.

Their prices are generally reasonable (although some items seem a bit overpriced), but I have found that their casting are not as crisp as I would like and that almost none of their hinges have removable pins. They are known for their high quality, and at least from the pictures everything looks quite nice. The downside is that you usually have to sift through a lot of stuff to find what you want. We have a reoccurring problem with the hinges, the doors staying shut and the door rosettes breaking. At first I thought this was really unusual, but now that I am a lot more familiar with Victorian houses, I have found that at least around here it was fairly common to have wooden door knobs.
I have yet to see another house with wooden rosettes (I am guessing that most of them broke a long time ago). Mike used car siding wood from the Menards because it’s tongue and groove so you can easily piece them together. Just uninstall the door knob (you don't need it anyway) and take your door from a hinged installation to a railed one.
They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware! It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails. The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place. Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle. This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them.
The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us.
Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes. We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater. Since we are going to be working on this wall I thought it would be nice to add some light into the corridor from the bathroom. We will have to use some sort of latch to lock it, since the door isn’t thick enough for a locking mechanism. So I took a look an VanDykes’s Restorers and they were having a sale on most of their handles! I will also be installing a matching one on the outside (since this handle is suitable for outdoor exposure).
I have a general rule that the closer something is to you, the better the quality should be. Once we decided on a painted door instead of a natural finish, it then turns to deciding on what type of door. Their website is a bit slow and cumbersome but they have some good stuff at very reasonable prices.
The only downside I see is that they focus on selling complete sets rather than individual parts. Also the prices range from really good to not so good based on the place and your negotiating skills.
We have done some piecemeal work, but we need to look at the doors as a group and make a decision on what we are going to do.
Please join me in the adventures of renovating old homes while trying to raise our young modern family.
That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are. Overall this space is going to be a bit more eclectic and industrial then some of our other spaces in the house. Fortunately they arrived quickly and I have installed the handles for the drawers and I will probably get around to installing the backdoor handle this weekend. I also picked up a similar, although slightly smaller set for the future bulkhead doors (currently we have a piece of exterior plywood on hinges).

Right now I am leaning towards a white freezer (unfortunately the model that I want only comes in white). Their builder recommended Therma-Tru, which is one of the largest manufactures of doors in America. Eastlake is an ornamental style of Victorian detail named after the famous English designer, Charles Eastlake, who wrote Hints on Household Taste which was a very popular book both in England the US in the later part of the 19th Century. They have also been helpful when I have called with questions and been able to sell me set screws and some miscellaneous bits that you can’t seem to find anywhere. Often called back plates, the type we have is typically referred to as rosettes because they are round.
Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length.
Our first floor tends to stick much closer to the Victorian feel, but upstairs I think it is okay to have a little fun. I also picked up handles for the bulkhead door (for when we get around to making new doors). I have fixed several of these, but because of this condition it is almost impossible to get a good hold. If you are searching for replacements, it is good to do a search for door rosette, backplate and escutcheon. That was actually quite therapeutic, and it feels good to get a good bit of clutter out of the space. On one of the doors upstairs the previous owner added screws into the corner of the hinges. A couple of months ago I managed to find 3 sets on ebay for a good price, so I bought them and they have been waiting for installation. Of course our playroom and garage are almost full and we still have one closet in our bedroom that will require emptying and demolishing. And frankly most of my choices could be changed to something more traditional fairly easily.
It should stand up well to lots of use without getting dings and it also takes paint well and doesn’t expand and contract like wood. However, if you are willing to slog through the more vague terms you can sometimes find a better deal because the person selling it may not know the exact style so the prices will sometimes be cheaper. They did not do a particularly good job of this, but it is worth considering, over replacing all of the hinges. This is exacerbated by the screws holding the hinges in place failing causing the door to settle.  I am currently considering several options for the rosettes, both vintage and reproduction.
I am thinking that we may be installing our bedroom closets piecemeal so that we can continue to function. In our case we are keeping some of the door hardware parts including the mortise guts so that works in our favor. They also offer the complete system with the sidelites and transom (glass above the door), so that will help to make sure that the joints are tight which will help keep the weather out. Another option  for fiberglass doors is Jeld-Wen but I couldn’t seem to find sidelites and transoms on their website. We are staying away from larger backplates that house both the door knob and keyhole because we have found that the dimension between the two varies in our house, and amongst backplates for sale (both vintage and new). The hinges must stylistically match the rest of the hardware, the pins are removable and the screw placement needs to work with our door framing. If you don’t have the time and energy to search through whats available then you should probably look elsewhere.
I made the mistake of buying non-removable pins when I replaced the hinges on the front door and I REALLY regret this. These 3 are all pretty reasonably priced, although if I go with the antique ones I am going to have to see if Charleston Hardware Co. They also all have daisies on them, which are my favorite flower and match the daisies on the Kitchen mantel and the upstairs stained glass window.

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Published at: Backyard Shed

Comments »

  1. bakililar — 01.03.2016 at 14:37:17
    Attach bolt-on legs by way of the wood home is in-built 4 sections, all of which freewheeling on the.
  2. Inaplanetyanka — 01.03.2016 at 21:15:25
    Have the slab poured and aroundthe door and window I: Construct the Ramp (Non-obligatory)Determining the width.
  3. Doktor_Elcan — 01.03.2016 at 21:37:50
    Can certainly implement some the.