Building a shed in under 2 min video,12x24 shed plans free woodworking,shed floor covering news - Reviews


I recently converted the 3D deck & shed plans into sketchup so that others can benefit. It was a lot of fun figuring out how to lift that heavy, wet, pressure-treated beam onto the posts all by myself. The posts weren’t small either, when you consider they are almost 6 feet underground! Another month or so would pass before I could finish my custom shed doors, but I’m happy with the result. I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind sharing your plans for both the deck and the shed. OK… I converted my 3ds max 3D models into Google sketchup format and update this post. I used my air staple gun to fix the position of the aluminum … then the NPC Solar Seal industrial caulk. As you can see by the photos… I built the wall tight to the vinyl siding of the house.
Just wanted to say thank you Alan for posting what you did, as it will be how I address my shed in the next house. I know you said you used your air stapler gun, but for those of us without any alternative recommendations? I didn’t put in a rain gutter at the end of the troughs, but I could have if I wanted to. Yeah, it was impractical to pour the concrete level, so the pad has a slope which I had to account for in building my walls and doors. Curiosity question: if you would have had a little more headroom under the deck, would you have considered installing a flat, slightly angled material, such as fiberglass, beneath the joists instead of the angled troughs? I’m planning something similar and debating between troughs between the joists vs some sort of flat panel below the joists.
Awesome Shed, I’m going to start on my next week and follow your example as much as possible. Alan, sorry for all the questions here, but im wondering if you could tell me how did your door for you shed, i dont think ill have enough head room for an overhead or walkthrough door and i like how you did yours? My doors are hobbit doors and I have to duck my head like Gandalf, but once I’m inside the shed I can stand up without hitting my head.
Maybe you should have considered moving to a warmer climate where you can sleep outside when the wife kicks you out? My deck has 2 massive posts (4 glued 2x6s) that are nearly 6 feet deep… that is way below the frost layer.
I have a theory on how you could install the aluminum under the deck without taking the deck boards off.
If you are really worried about rotting joists, you could install the long strips of aluminum all the way up to the underside of the deck boards and cut them so that the the bottom side of this strip slopes down away from the house. An additional note on the question of the number of piers that I might need - the cabin will be 11x14 and made of 10 to 12 inch logs. Just because something has been done and has not failed, doesn?t mean it is good design.If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time and money to fix it? The old log houses here were typically built on 4 piers, under the hard bearing points of the stacked corners. Download .mp3Attics are a great place to reclaim living space without the expense of an addition.
But with energy codes requiring more and more insulation, it can be difficult to pack all of that R-value into the skinny little rafters that are common in older houses. One solution is to add layers of rigid foam under the rafters, but this cuts in to living space. Just make sure that you don't do it willy-nilly: if you are going to ask more of your buildings, you need to ask more of your details. Energy audit is an excellent investment especially in older homes built before code enforcement.
You asked, "How does this approach affect roof life?" I assume your question concerns the roofing rather than the lifespan of the sheathing and rafters. Finally, note that many builders have learned that shingle warranties are basically worthless, because shingle manufacturers often dispute claims, and because labor is never covered, and because coverage is pro-rated depending on the age of the shingle at the time of the claim. But in summer a vented attic draws in great volumes of high-humidity air into the attic to condense on the cool floor joist edges of a an air conditioned space, or if (as is common) the air handler & ducts are up there, on the HVAC equipment causing major dripping if it doesn't have sufficient insulation to keep the attic-exposed surfaces above the much higher OUTDOOR dew point. Whatever you do, don't let the foam contractors talk you into removing any attic floor insulation- it's still doing you plenty of good, and won't cause a moisture problem. My local building dept, and engineer has already approved the plan using just 2x4 strapping without sheathing, but I did not include the foam. Also, in my area, an ice and water shield is required, Most here use the peel and stick, for the first 3' of roof at least..
You're right -- with many types of steel roofing, 2x4 purlins, 24 inches on center, are adequate for screwing down the roofing.
And I was going to fill, or partially fill the cavity of the 2x12 rafters with the spray in cellulose, or mineral wool batts to meet code requirements. If my budget allowed, I would have an inch of spray foam applied inside the rafters first, just to help seal it up a bit. Incidentally, I was going to build the walls with the same approach, but will have a reverse board and batten solid pine siding instead of steel. I have a situation similar to the detail presented in the referenced presentation but came away with a variant solution that I would be interested in your comments. I am not sure if this is the correct forumbut here goes I am refinishing an upstairs (2 rooms, stairwell, plus bathroom) in a home in WA state. I have several sections of hybrid wall (see image) that have 2x4 single walls top to bottom on the interior but the bottom half has a second 2x4 wall about 12 in away on the outside.
There is no building code requirement for vapor barriers in walls or ceilings -- only vapor retarders. If you're talking about kraft facing, don't worry too much about the location of the kraft facing. I'm planning an addition which will cause me to tie into the existing roof, giving me the opportunity and excuse to improve it. 1) I didn't quite follow the discussion of sheathing and back-venting for asphalt shingles.

Does The Plan (above) seem feasible for preserving both reflectivity and establishing a water barrier? 3) On the overhang, can I use 2x6s -- one along the fascia and one uphill from that, just outside the edge of the exterior wall -- effectively creating a chase along the bottom, cold edge of the roof? I've attached a screenshot to clarify the idea of the un-insulated chase on bottom edge of the roof. It looks like your design for what you call "an uninsulated chase" (that is, a soffit) will work fine. I've always been curious if and how you could install roof mounted solar on a roof design like this.
Also since asphalt shingle manufacturers do not like 'hot' roofs, consider this design and a metal roof, perhaps Decra shingles so it looks 'normal'.
Has anyone you know done solar on a roof like this, what did they have to do to make it meet structural recommendations for the mounting (i.e. PV rack manufacturers have developed mounting systems that can be attached to the roof sheathing.
Kaplan, Picture Maker - choosei»? from sub-menu abovePerspective is at the heart of good realistic drawing. The following youtube video covers some important factors to consider when building such a deck. I wanted my shed to look as nice as I could make it… so I wrapped it in matching vinyl siding.
In your last post about allowing the shed to rise and fall in the winter (I too live up north in South East MN) without lifting the shed, did you mean the deck? I offer this to you in the spirt of an observation that may help you make better use of your talents and knowledge.
With rigid foam above the sheathing and cellulose in the rafter cavities, this roof is about R-63. Exterior insulation solves a lot of thermal nosebleeds, but the amount of foam you put on the outside needs to be proportional with the amount of insulation on the inside, within the rafter cavity.
I have never seen any evidence that ventilation affects the life of metal roofing, or concrete tile roofing, or clay tile roofing. Since roofing manufacturers have been selling black shingles for years, and since they honor their shingle warranties on black shingles, it's fair to say that hot shingles still last for quite a while. In the Gulf coast states the winter outdoor temps are above the dew point of conditioned-space air, and little or no moisture can accumulate in the roof deck in wintertime from interior moisture drives. For the same money you could put in ~8" of open cell spraying over the rafters and get better than R25. I am putting up a building, and have some reclaimed 3" rigid SM I want to put on top of my 2x12 roof rafters. In this assembly, I cant see it being necessary, but if requested by the building dept, would it do any harm? You need to pay attention to airtightness, so it is important to seal the seams between the rigid foam with canned spray foam, high quality tape, or both -- especially if you are using only one layer of rigid foam. And for the concrete basement walls from the main floor down to grade, I am going to cover the foam with cement board, and later apply thin stone veneer. Site conditions prevent a basement, so it will be slab on grade thus storage will be needed, suggesting a conditioned attic.
If the fascia need replacing down the road, is it a nightmare that the peel and stick wraps down onto it? For more information on vapor retarders, see this article: Vapor Retarders and Vapor Barriers. According to the 2009 IRC, either climate zone has the same R-value requirements for ceilings: at least R-38. Fiberglass batts perform poorly unless you have an impeccable air barrier -- ideally at least two air barriers, one on each side of the insulation, and in contact with the insulation. If you are getting a spray foam contractor on the site, you might consider using spray foam everywhere.
Having read numerous articles here and on Fine Homebuilding, I've come up with a plan – but have some gaps and number of questions.
If the water-proofing layer is on top of the foam (under the furring strips), this negates the affect of the foil (as I understand it) -- is it worth trying to preserve (or could I use a different product)? The asphalt felt underlayment goes between the asphalt shingles and the top layer of plywood or OSB. One is made by DPW-Solar; it's called the Power Rail Mounting System, and the attachment method is called Easy Feet. My trailer-lift project may have been my most gratifying project, but my shed has been the most useful.
Trying to tell from the pics, but I’m not sure if they either hold the water, or if the water flows out below the deck and above the window?
My deck is, unfortunately, resting under a giant oak, and I have constant twigs and acorns everywhere. The best foundation for a log structure will be similar to the best foundation for a stick built structure; a full perimeter concrete or concrete block wall, resting on a concrete footing that is also full perimeter. In an old chink style log house, the logs are beams spanning from corner notch to corner notch.
Those rebar cages around the insides of big columns, that takes the tension load as a masonry column tries to bend.
You won't see many 20 foot high 40 foot wide concrete block walls held together with just mortar. This thread is getting sidetracked with this, so this is my last post on this, even though I am sure you will have a lot to say.The discussion was (and is about columns). The three layers of foam help to seal air leaks, but to make this assembly perform well, you need to incorporate some unconventional details.
This not only boosts the roof's R-value, but it breaks the thermal bridge of the rafters and increases the air-tightness of the whole roof assembly. So if you want to keep your shingles cool, choose white shingles, not dark colored shingles. The rafter extends to the soffit; there is a bird's mouth cut to accommodate the top plate of the wall.
The short answer is, the benefits of the ventilation channel outweigh the potential drawbacks.

I decided to put my shed entry on the left side of the deck, so I had to dig the hillside down and create a patio for the doorway.
Good thing I allowed space for the concrete to heave in winter… because it did just that! Thinking of doing the same at my cottage up north, but the deck is at the top of a steep decline, and i don’t want excess water to weaken the hill at all. I have a couple sheets of plywood under the deck, protecting my hot tub area, but leaves and crap still blow in from the sides… which, of course, cling to bare, wet feet and gets dragged into the house. Push this wide piece of aluminum up between the long strips of aluminum and the joists on both sides. That spreads the load out over a larger footprint and pretty much eliminates the potential problems of having any one pier settle more than the others. The load on each horizontal log (think beam) is transferred to the corners and then vertically down the corner to the pier. The soil I am building on is a very solid clay, how can I find out the soil bearing capacity?4.
1) The pier shown whether on a concrete or crushed rock footing is capable of supporting vertical load. I wouldn't use anything crumbly, that would then control the compressive strength, they should be harder than concrete.
I know its not as good as overlapping joints in the foam, but the 3" thick sheets were salvaged from a commercial roof demolition.. Wondering if you installed a gutter (or any other way of diverting the water run off from the trough)? I plan on making the area a screened-in porch, but I’m worried about the non-removability or your system.
Like I said, I'm not a log guy, but piers go against the grain for a log structure, IMO.
If you are going to get into all he other things you can do to structurally lock them together, you may as well use a proper form or just pour it all at once. If I have to, I could "glue" the edges of the sheets together with some spray foam as I put it down.. Every effort has been made here to present the principles of perspective in plain language and in the most understandable manner possible, with plenty of illustrations.i»?Copyright Frederic C. It may be possible to flush everything out with enough water, but I figured I’d get your take on it.
If frost depth is listed at 36 inches the bottom of the footer should be at or slightly below that level.
That probably isn't a big enough footprint when we figure for the vertical loads, the building, occupancy and snow. No one disputed the fact that mortar has shear strength and binds concrete blocks together and can be enhanced by an additive because that was not even the subject.
In any case, 3 inches of rigid foam is not likely to satisfy minimum R-value requirements, so check your local code. I've worked on a couple of those where the unloaded underpinning had collapsed and the bearing was back to the original 4 points. If you made the pier wobble you instinctively tested the force that most concerns me with piers, lateral.
Since concrete is cheaper than the stone mason we poured the 2' wide footings from frost depth to almost grade. But if the 3 inches of rigid foam is all the insulation you've got, I imagine it isn't enough.
And you are quite correctly intuitively concerned, wind, seismic, and boys are the horizontal loads. These old pier buildings were almost always at ground level on one side to provide some lateral resistance, an anchor against racking. Don't look at the height of the pier while thinking that, look all the way up to the top of the sail on that lever arm. That works well on old fully cured logs, with green logs the corners are settling as they shrink and those columns of blocking can hold things up. The slower you work after getting the roof on the more time you have to tune this in as things dry.The sill logs which carry the floor and pass under the door openings is then a very critical beam. It carries all the accumulated weight from above up to the header row of logs over the tops of the windows and doors where you again have full length spanning logs from corner to corner. The top of the footing is level with protruding rebar sticking up periodically along the wall line, block is coursed on top of that. All loads are carried on those 4 corners.The issuse in my mind are the load bearing capacity of the soil, you need a broad enough footprint so that the piers do not sink. A codebook foundation is an enclosed structure, an interior pier would not have moisture under it or extreme cold.
My feeling is that building corners that run 4' in each direction out of each corner would provide that stability and bearing area.
This is loading the sill at points along it rather than the four corners I described at such unneccesary length above .
I'd look into an alaskan lumbermill to flatten one face of the logs although a broadaxe would do the job. A neat idea but a mighty poor diaphragm to reinforce the base of the walls.The log house here was basically a horizontal framing system. The flat hewn faces facilitated applying furring strips although the logs were later hewn at those locations until all the strips on a wall planed in flat. The original hewing also produced logs that were slightly tapered narrower at the top than at the bottom, they were hewing a tapered clapboard type drip edge in the log.On the weight of logs, remember the prescriptive codes include solid masonry structures.
That chimney would put close to 3000 pounds per square foot on the soil, it would likely sink. We put a 40 sqaure foot footing under it and got the load on the soil down to about 1250 lbs per square foot, (less than 10psi if that helps in thinking about it).

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