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All coops thus far have been wood and wire tractors and one lowe's play house that was pre-cut. The trickiest part of this coop building is that we had to get it done in the summer and travel 5 hours each way to work on it.
The back was made 8 feet wide to span the floor and studs were placed 16OC (on center) as it is one of the key load bearing walls.
There are two 16D coated sinker nails holding the pieces together from the top and bottom ends. This is the frst 3 day weekend we had to drive up to Washington from Oregon to build this coop. Front wall with siding: The structural plywood siding was attached every 6 inches with 2 inch nails all around any edges.
We used a 2x4 to make a frame, a sheet of 16x20 window glass, and glazing points to hold it in.
Clear caulk was used on all seams touching red siding, white caulk was used for all seams that were white touching white. The front trim on the edges are 1x4 boards with 1x3 boards are the sides to give the look of 4 inch trim all around the edges.
Fishing line was used to make an invisible escape cord if you accidently closed the door behind yourself while inside. Two roosts, one at 20 or so inches off the ground and one at about 36 inches from the ground. Feeder: With excess wood from constuction, I figured I'd just build the feeder because they can be expensive to buy.
The feeder is 24 inches tall, 6 inches deep, with a 4 inch tray at the bottom sticking out, that is 3 inches deep, so the birds can easily get the food without hitting their combs.
There are 2 gallons of red Olympic exterior paint, 1 gallon of Valspar white exterior paint, 2 gallons of tinted exterior primer, 1 gallon of Sherwin Williams mismatch paint, and 2 gallons of Duramax exterior mismatch paint.
Total cost of project before tools and about 2000 total miles of driving to and from the project was $879.23.
So we best utalized three day weekends for this project and had to have a VERY good step by step plan. Simmilar to the front, I would have made the framing holes smaller for the windows for a easier fitment.
Then the 30lb roofing felt was installed on top by nailing in every 12 inches or so and overlaping layers 4-6 inches.
However, it did take 3-5 passes per shingle to cut through them due to how thick they were. We got lucky with rain, as it started right after we put on the last coat of paint for this trip, and the large eves kept the siding dry enough to set.
The front is 14 inches tall, back is 31.5 inches tall, and they are fastened together with a secton of remaining 2"x4"x14" blocks. We tore down the old coop and the leghorns brooder coop is going to be occupied with the two cochin x silkie bantams.
My SO now has a "permanently" brused hand from hammering which I hope will heal in the next few years.
Only thing not new were the shingles left over from the house and the chickens who were installed.
I really think that this is an excellent design, and I will probably be constructing a new coop over the winter.
It took a bit to learn how to use a CAD program to find some critical errors in the hand drawn plans.
The walls are all nailed down into the floor every foot or so, and the front and back walls are nailed into each other with the coated sinkers. This increased lead time to construction, but saved a TON of time of needing to tape off and paint unprimed and painted trim pices from the walls. Tired and exaused from busy weekends we were tired of working on the coop but had to finish.
The little wood bits are 14 inches long so chickens can turn around easily on the roosts and keeps poop off the shelf brackets. As a side note about 1.5 bags of shavings (15 expanded cubic feet) were put in the bottom before chickens were installed.
The furnishings in this coop are designed and adjusted for standards, so banties will all have to live in the 4x4 Lowe's playhouse mini coop.
This was a TON of work and if we lived where it was built and did not have to travel, could probably do it again in one work week. A big thanks go out to my dad for driving me to the store to buy materials in his truck and my mom which kept us fed and clean throughout the many hours of this project.
Window openings are to fit my custom windows that I made from 2x4's and a 16x20 sheet of glass. Any longer I would have gone with 2x6's. It was somewhat eye balled when it came to instalation. The proper method is to use a quarter round dowel to do the front frame to set the glass in, use glazing points on the back side to hold the glass in, and a product like dap33 to seal it in from the back over the glazing points. All window gaps were filled in with "Great Stuff Window and Foam" That great stuff is sticky and really does expand A LOT. With the exception of the red paint, the other colors and "white" were all $5 mistake mix ups. In the future, I would make the window hole openings on the frame smaller so it would be easier to shim in. Of note, the width of the side walls are 5 inches shorter than the depth of the floor so that they would fit between the front and back walls.
We put a towel on top of the glass when pushing in the glazing points in fear of it shattering on us.
The door is 30 inches wide, and when I cut the door from the ply, it was cut half an inch smaller all around for clearance. What is not seen in this part of the plan is that the side overhangs have a few pieces of horizontal wood holding them out from the edge rafter pieces that are 10.5 inches long. When the windows were dry, we installed them flush with the outside walls with help of shims and 2 inch long deck screws. So once every 2 months in the winter or so, and then it can last all summer because it is less wet than during the 10 months of rainy season. The plywood was attached every 6 inches around the edges and every 12 inches on the beams with 2 inch 12D galvanized nails. I don't think it's a problem, but if you lived in a city with neighbors you can see from your house, it may be a problem. When placing the boards, we placed the grain of the exterior ply perpenicular to the floor joists.
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Published at: Cheapest Sheds