Free woodworking shop floor plans free,summer houses for rent in myrtle beach 2014,diy wood projects for fathers day - New On 2016

27.09.2013


Please click on each image to enlarge and maximize your browsers screen for best resolution. A 35 page resource guide of tips, tricks and lots of useful links to help you with your projects. I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible.
I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now. Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items.
Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths. The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row.
Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support. After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level.
It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall. As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids!
One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself). Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall. What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side? I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage.
I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are.
You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time. I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement.
I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be. In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves. As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards.
Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you! The Eagle Lake shop is a basement woodshop that is approximately 440 sq feet; of which I use every inch. Like most small shops, I have some machines on wheels to allow me to reposition them if needed.
Reply to comment from Skeet Hudgens who wrote: Thanks for all your help- great ideas that I will use. Plan a scheme of your future cabinets on your garage walls and floor, park your car and try to walk before it without crossing the scheme lines.
You can assemble a basic workbench, cabinets, shelving, and add simple overhead lighting for less than $500.
If your garage has a finished ceiling, recessed fixtures (can lights) are inexpensive ($10-$20) and are good for task and ambient lighting. Ceiling-mounted fluorescent light fixtures are the classic, low-cost solution for workshop lighting. 9 Ways to Deep Clean the Cruddiest Things in Your Home without Breaking Into a SweatYou Can’t Detect These 4 Stinky Smells, But Your Guests Sure Can. I faced this situation recently when I moved my woodshop from a spacious two-car garage below my office into a smaller 10-ft. To plan my shop, I used a modeling program on my computer, but you can use the drawings I created to plan an efficient shop on paper.
I’ve seen many shops that are similar in size to mine, and most make serious compromises on machines yet still are choked with stuff. When I began to arrange my shop on paper and on the computer screen, I realized that, in a small shop, moving wood is easier than moving machines.
It was immediately apparent that the key to this design challenge would be infeed and outfeed space for each machine. Basically, I created a linear outfeed area, which includes the miter-saw station with folding wings, tablesaw with folding outfeed table, and my large router table, all in a line along the 20-ft.
Along the opposite long wall are the planer, combination sander, drill press, bandsaw, workbench, and compressor.
You have a few options for planning your shop space: The first is simply to photocopy the two-dimensional models and use them to create a scale layout of your shop floor.
By the way, I have used Sketchup to design every piece of furniture and cabinetry I’ve built over the last few years, even working out joinery details and making color choices on the computer. Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes. Mike Wilson writes: This is a nice post about woodwork and I was amazed by the quality of work you are producing. Note these are JPG images displayed on a computer monitor and as such the resolution has been degraded. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves. I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items.


If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall. I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall). For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart.
This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design).
Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are).
Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall. After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly.
They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials. My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run. Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal.
It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money!
You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion. If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams. Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor. I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end. For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams.
For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. Having a small shop forces me to be better organized and to find creative ways of using my space. I have positioned and oriented the major machines in the shop so that I have at least eight feet for infeed and outfeed.
And most likely you have a lot of seldom used tools, tourist equipment, beach sets unused throughout almost the whole year and all other kinds of stuff lying everywhere in your house and garage. If you have wooden or plastic walls with studs beneath them, find their locations and mark them with chalk or marker. They’re well-suited to the task, with a tolerance for the noise and dust of do-it-yourself projects.
Places for tools and supplies are mandatory — the top of your work surface doesn’t count! A lumen is a measure of lighting brightness, and is a handy way to compare today’s new energy-efficient light bulbs.
He has edited home improvement books for Better Homes and Gardens, The Home Depot, Stanley, and the Discovery Channel. You have most of the machines, benches, and cabinets, with plans to buy or build what you don’t already own. Download and print the PDF below and arrange them on graph paper to create a plan view of your shop.
So I ignored the idea of setting up the space for workflow—for example, creating adjacent, sequential zones for lumber storage, rough dimensioning, final dimensioning, joinery, and so on. These spaces can overlap, but it takes careful planning to make sure nothing gets in the way. Each tool has dust-collection hookups and storage space to keep the relevant tools, bits, blades, and fixtures nearby.
Using two- and three-dimensional CAD models, Yurko crafted a bench area that packs in hand tools, air tools (and a compressor), a sharpening station. I struggled to find a place for my wide jointer and eventually decided against shoehorning it in, instead making a fixture for my router table that joints edges quite well.
Because most everything is only a couple of steps away, I’m much less fatigued after an evening of woodworking. And I know of many other woodworkers across the country who have discovered Sketchup and put it to good use.
Creating his own three-dimensional CAD models allowed Yurko to plan vertical space as well as floor space, helping him locate spots for essential lumber, accessories, shelves, and cabinets. Your completed drawings submitted on PDF or plot file will be much more clear and crisp than these samples. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed. I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last. I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…).
Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up.
You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support. Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them.


I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have. You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall.
Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation.
Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on? I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. The bandsaw and wide drum sander do not have 8 feet for infeed and outfeed (more like 5ft or 6ft), but they are on wheels and can be easily repositioned.
I have two areas for wood storage - the ten-foot shelves above and below my miter saw station, and the racks in the dust collector room.
Apparently, you noticed an empty place on the wall in front of your parked car and decided to place hanging garage cabinets there. If any major workflow and dust-collection problems arise, they probably will just be tolerated. Take the time to work out the most efficient placement of benches, cabinets, and machines, taking into account infeed and outfeed zones as well as ducting for dust collection. I’ve been able to make large projects such as cabinets and a king-size bed with few compromises in workmanship or speed. But I was determined not to settle, nor to lose my ability to mill rough lumber to custom sizes. The planer is the only tool I have to roll out into the middle of the room to use, which takes about a minute, including connecting the dust-collection hose.
My scrollsaw, the bulk of my wood supply, and some storage cabinets didn’t make the cut either. As a third alternative, you can download the same modeling program I used, and create three-dimensional plans.
If you download and learn Sketchup, feel free to go to my Web site and download my 3-D models for your own use, or use Sketchup to create your own. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height.
Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks.
Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it.
I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support.
Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure. I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in.
Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. I made four items in the shop the same height so that they could all work together providing infeed and outfeed for each other. For wood chip and dust control, I have an ambient air filter that is suspended from the ceiling and I have a dust collector that’s connected to each machine.
Install the doors by inserting them to the upper track and gently inputting the lower end of the door sheet into the lower track. With careful planning, though, you can take advantage of the opportunity to get the layout right the first time. I even planned a location for all of the tools, blades, and jigs used with the tablesaw: on the operator side, for easy access. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet. If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s. The four items are the workbench adjacent to the router table, the router table, which is five feet long and includes my horizontal router table, the tablesaw, and the table saw's outfeed table. I try to encourage new woodworkers to buy a dust collector before their next big tool purchase. This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall. I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. The arrangement of elements in this manner has proven to be quite effective for supporting stock at the router table and tablesaw. If I had known when I started how much of a benefit a dust collector would be, I would have bought one sooner.
Draw a horizontal line between the lower ends of the sheets and secure the lower ladder to the wall following that line. A 38-inch height is typical, but you might be more comfortable with a work surface as low as 36 or as high as 42 inches. The length of your cabinets depends solely on the amount of stuff you are going to put into them.
Some benches include vises, drawers, and shelves.Build one yourself using readily available plans.
A simple, sturdy workbench takes less than a day to build and materials cost less than $100. If you don’t have 30-amp circuits on your garage service, talk with an electrical contractor about making this simple upgrade.
The Family Handyman magazine offers detailed instructions for several, including an inexpensive, simple bench. Ballpark $75-$100 an hour for an electrical contractor, plus a probable service-call fee of $50 to $100.
A more complex bench with a miter saw stand and drawers costs $300-$500 to build and takes a weekend.The Right Bright LightGarage work surfaces need bright ambient light and strong task lighting.
Rates will vary across regions of the country.Good electricians work quickly, so installing shop lights might take only an hour or two if access to electrical service is readily available. Increasing circuit capacity generally requires running new, heavier-gauge wire from your circuit-breaker box to the shop site.



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Comments »

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  2. VUSALIN_QAQASI — 27.09.2013 at 17:44:55
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