Shed lots of hair,garage storage racks installation,how to make victorian style furniture - Easy Way
We've been needing a shed for some time, and the brief I got from my client (SWMBO) was that it needed to be large enough for all the garden equipment and that she didn't want to have to look at it from the kitchen window.
The compromise solution was that it shouldn't look like a warehouse, and so the New England style salt box roof style shed was conceived. Working on the basis that if you build it twice as big as you think you'll need, it will turn out to at least half the size you actually need, I settled on 12' x 8' which would make the best use of sheet materials, and would also be the maximum size that would fit between the hedge and the trees in the preferred location.
The back garden slopes down to the house somewhat, and this gives a clue as to how much earth was needed to be dug out. Having established the footprint, it became clear that it would need an additional 2' all the way round. Six concrete block supports were layed on a bed of cement approx one block below ground level, on a firm, undisturbed substrate. I marked out the roof trusses on the floor, and then screwed small blocks down to it to form a jig. Having made the gables, they weighed an absolute b***** ton, and I pulled a muscle in my back shifting them off the floor onto the garden to make way for the next wall - so out of action for 3 weeks!
Never having laid shingles before, I decided to start on the back slope which couldn't be seen from the house, and hoped that by the time I got to the front I would have made all the mistakes I was going to make.
For the ridge, I've taken the shingles to the top, covered the ridge with a strip of 8" DPC, and then added the final row of shingles.
The ridge was finally covered by shingles laid with the grain along the roof line, starting from both ends and meeting in the middle. This is very impressive lots of thought planning and sound engineering in this 'shed' and obviously its been put together very well.
Well worth the extra cash you spent and thanks for taking the time to photograph the project, only wish I had the space to do similar an move in Any electrics fitted?
And another question - with six blocks to support you have been happy with no sag along the gable end line?
The joists sit on 8" DPC which is sandwiched between the block piers and the 6 x2 beam along the front and back on which the joists sit. Other things that I'd maybe do differently is that I would purpose build the trusses to take sprockets which would reduce the height of the roof and the front and rear walls by about 3" without reducing the headroom inside. Nesting box was built out of TP frame covered with Hardiboard (used as sheeting for eaves in Aussie houses). To line the nesting boxes I bought two plastic trays that are designed as flower pot saucers. The final prepared area was framed with gravel boards, lined with a weedproof membrane and covered with about 2" of gravel.
I'm using a piece of left over battening, clamped at each end to ensure that each row is straight, and using stainless steel ring shank nails.
For each row, by running a square along the supporting batten, I've ensured that they don't develope a slant, and a piece of tape on the square shows where the nails should go. As an after-thought I've treated the shingle roof with Osmo UV Protection which claims to reduce the rate at which the shingles will weather to grey by a factor of 12, as well as inhibiting the growth of moss and algae, which I thought would be a good idea bearing mind it is partially under trees. It is a bit close to the back fence (at least the council regs thinks so!) but we back onto a lane so should not be a problem. I had use two widths on all sides, I just joined them with gal wire twists and a single run of wire weaved through both bits.
We go away from time to time and I don't want the neighbours having to feed and water if possible, just collect eggs. For when i am away I am in the process of making a jumbo feeder out of 3 inch diam PVC pipe. Im not a fan of permamnent structures in a protected urban setting but there is no fault in your work. We are extremely impressed with your handy work, You should begin a business building chicken houses for urban areas.
Every single process is done with passion and so you have come up with a very authentic and attractive masterpiece. The vertical pieces on the gable ends are temporary to stop the shiplap curling, as they are not yet nailed down the sides, as I will be slipping some DPC underneath and wrapping it around the corners to help weather proof the joins. Overall I am pretty happy with the result although the real test will be in two weeks when the chooks arrive! Roof is on a slant as I will eventually get a gutter and hook it up to the tank for the auto waterer. I just mounted it to the frame and hooked it up to a 20L drum (got it for free from the farm supplies place, had horse supplement in it). To anchor the frame I sunk some coach bolts head end down into the concrete fill leaving about 3 inches of thread sticking out. I think the cost of something similar from a manufacturer would have been nearer ?3,500, and that not including the considerable work in preparing the base. I then marked out one gable end on the floor, and used one of the trusses to mark out the shape of the roof on the floor.
Blocks were screwed to the floor to form a jig so that both gables would be identical, and also that they would match the trusses. The gables are asymmetrical so having made one gable, the 2nd gable was set out on exactly the same jig, but then turned over before it was clad in OSB and shiplap - so I didn't have 2 left ends!
Table saw plans pdf 2014|
Woodwork show homebush
How to make a website full screen html slider
Published at: Cheap Sheds