So when my friend Gina from Lady Goats wrote me saying, Help, Ana, I'm building in the rocks and dirt! She wanted to use cedar, and I thought, what cheaper solution than cedar fence pickets for siding? Gina is going to add a few fun things to the inside - like a mitersaw cabinet and some door shelves, so stay tuned as we turn this shed into a workshop! It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion. I would advise to put some kind of liner underneath the shingles, especially if youve got powertools stored in the shed. I had some looong conversations with the people in the roofing departments in both Lowe's and Home Depot (made sure to talk to a lot of people, because it's hard to get accurate advice from one person that may or may not have done a roof!), and they all mentioned that the type of shingles I used, with the OSB, in my climate wouldn't require the use of another underlayment. Anna, don't have chickens as of now but l have 5 cats, my daughter renting front half of our duplex has 6 cats. Last fall bought 2 - 10 x 10 x 6 ft high dog kennel's for my 18 yr old sheperd to run free in no chain. Just wondering if you have any plans for our cats who needs exercise and my de clawed cat who catn't run loose. I have been looking for something like this to build and put on my back deck for a potting shed.
So I drew up a pretty basic shed style chicken coop with a door on one side and a humble sloping roof. Please stop over and check out more construction photos and read more tips from Whitney from Whitney's Workshop. To build the floor, simply frame up with 2x4s as shown above, 24” on center, using the 3” wood screws or 16d nails.
The easiest way to attach rafters is with a Kreg Jig and 1 ?” pocket holes and 2 ?” pocket hole screws.
As an experienced chicken-herd I would suggest making the chicken flap open to the INSIDE of the coop. Many people will do something like the following: starting from the ground, the first foot or so is chicken wire.
I can see already that you will get many chicken people on here with their 2 cents as chickens (and their poeple) can be a bit fickle. I wanted to point out really quickly that the instructions on step 5 are duplicated in step 6. Also after having animals for a few years, it's a good idea to use a piece of pressure treated plywood for the floor in the chicken coop. Ventilation is a good point for extreme heat and then for us in the cold for winter time coop lockdown. I am very excited about this coop as it gives me good tips for the greenhouse I'm trying to build. PDF versionAdditional PhotosAbout This Project I used the chicken shed plans to create the coop, with a modification to include two nesting boxes, one on each side. I slightly modified the nesting boxes, using a U shaped frame and added hinges for the front to swing down and the pine shavings to be swept out. By sourcing reclaimed materials, I built the coop, run, interior, feeding stations (5), and waterer for $550. There are still a few pieces of trim to be cut and painted, but the girls are inside eating, drinking, and merry! I did find that at the Home Depot, if you buy chicken wire, it costs way more then 150 feet x 36 inch "stucco netting". We got three cans of exterior rust colored paint and mixed them all together to make one color. PDF versionAdditional PhotosAbout This Project Thanks for the shed plans, I've been looking all over for something like this.
Once we got the wood right up to the coop it was way to deep and would have been hard for the hens to get in and out. That way you don't have to go into the fenced-in chicken run to close it, you can just close it from inside the coop. As long as you attach it very securely, with seems only at the corners, if possible, it will hold up very well. We tacked each full sheet of siding in place and traced the cuts for the window, roof line, doors, and nesting boxes.
They were a pain to work with, very prone to breaking when not supported, but with the entire run costing $25 for wood and $54 (with half a roll left over) for chicken wire, I can handle some extra time and effort. I would have definitely pre-built everything and assembled it after I got my HOA's approval if I'd have known! If you don't have one, nail one corner of an end board and squeeze the boards together while someone else nails all of 'em.
I live in Texas though, and it's already 95 degrees everyday (and it's only the beginning of May!). Right now there are 8 chickens in it and there is no issue with over crowding and everyone has room to lay. You could wrap the chicken around all four sides of the coop, or you could do the two longest sides, whichever you prefer.
I have heard of other people treating the flooring with other material but the PT works for me.
I think what I might try is making the rafters longer, by cutting a birdsmouth and extending them over the front and back, having a 6" or so overhang.
Do not allow the top plate to extend past the back wall studs, because t1-11 will sheath all the way up, and the back surface needs to be flush. Either put in some vents, like the type of vents that would be on a regular ol' house, on the roof, or on the side of a house or something.
I could basically then screen off the space between the top of the siding (which would only then come up to the top plate) and the rafters as a vent. I'd hinge the windows at the top rather than the bottom, and probably put a gutter on the down side of the roof.
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Published at: Shed Blueprints