Table saw guitar building lessons,bedroom furniture storage bench,how to get storage space on iphone 5 - Reviews

07.11.2014


When you purchase a new table saw or get a good deal on a used one, don’t be tempted to think that it is ready to use right out of the box or in the case of a used one, ready to use upon delivery. The table saw can be one of the most dangerous tools in the guitar shop and if the saw is not setup properly, it can just be an accident the is ready to happen.
The first and worst problem was that the blade was not perfectly perpendicular to the saw table. As it turns out the blade mechanism, called the trundle is almost always secured to the cast iron saw table from underneath with a series of bolts. There are special measurement tools that will allow an even more accurate measurement for this operation, but I have found by very basic method works just fine. Check the alignment of the fence by running the fence over to the edge of the miter gage slot – along one edge.
It provides great cross-cutting support, locks in a single degree angles and is silky smooth in operation. When you make your own, you can easily fashion them to suit particular needs and you have a lot more versitility. If you prefer to purchase a pre-made adjustable Feather Board, here is a great one made by Rockler that I use in addition to my custom made ones.
Just about every table saw comes with safety gear installed on the saw to prevent kickbacks and it is a really good idea to keep that equipment in place. Sometimes it may seem a bit frivolous to have a special tool for just one cutting operation, but you will not appreciate the convenience of this jig once you have completely ruined a fully finished belly bridge, prism bridge or classical guitar bridge by a router slipping every so slightly. I first developed this gadget for my father who raved about it”s usefulness and how easy it was to set up and use. The plans for the jig are very precise and very well noted and dimensioned, so I will just cover some of the highlights and details you should pay attention to here. The plans, as all my plans are very detailed and to full scale so you can choose to make templates from them, or you can follow the very complete dimensions in both decimal inches or mm. Are you interested in buying the plans for the Ultimate Guitar Saddle Channel Routing Jig right now? You will then be given a link for an electronic download, where you can down load the PDF documents. The Mortise and Tenon Joint is my joint of choice for an Acoustic Guitar neck or a Ukulele neck. Clearly mark the line of the guitar body horizontally across the face of the neck (the fretboard surface of the neck) with a sharp Marking knife, or a very sharp pencil.
Since this joint should be cut before any rough neck shaping has taken place, you will be working with a neck plank can be easily cut on a Table Saw or a Band Saw.
You can also easily cut the tendon out with a fine backsaw or a dovetail saw or a Japanese Pull Saw.
GLS Tip: If you have trouble cutting vertically you can clamp a wood block right next to the area to be saw-cut to better guide the saw. Method Two: Use horizontal dowels that go through the sides of the Head-Block and pierce the Mortise and Tenon joint in two locations. Method Three: Use mechanical fasteners such as Stainless Steel Bolts with Threaded Brass Inserts. Glue the Head-block to the sides, making sure the joint is centered on the global center-line of the body.
Even they are setup properly at the factory or in the previous shop, there is enough jarring around, during shipping to throw the saw completely out of alignment.


I happened to be talking to a customer about the saw and he happened to be a seasoned professional furniture builder and listened as I explained my woes. His explanation made a lot of sense, all of which I was completely oblivious to before he turn on the light.
The trundle not only hold the blade by the arbor, but it allows you to set the depth of cut and the cut angle, so it is the most comprehensive piece of equipment connected to the saw. You can check the table flatness by laying a good stainless steel straightedge or 4 foot level across the table in all directions and check for any gaps. Before you do anything else, before you make one cut, make sure that you do a proper setup of the saw.
Once setup properly, you need not measure your cut as the sliding scale on the fence is extremely accurate. They are hard to accurately adjust, bind in the miter gage slot and provide poor support for cross-cutting.
This miter gage has a lot of very nice features and you’ll wonder how you got along without one after you use it. There are times when the blade needs to be set right nest to the fence and without a sacrificial fence you will scar and eventually ruin your good rip fence. This way I can easily remove the fence when needed and I can also replace a sacrificial fence that gets all scared up. One little slip or a distraction and the blade doesn’t know if it is sawing through wood or a finger.
The feathering board is a scrap piece of wood with a serrated end that is locked into the miter gage slot and applies gentle pressure against wood stock as it is being ripped.
Do not stand directly behind the wood, you will not get out of the way nearly quick enough. He had several failures in cutting the saddle channel in bridges and way expressing total frustration.
Make sure you order or purchase your Carriage Bolts before you cut the adjustment slots and the channels for the bolt head to travel.
You can cut the slots and channels with hand tools and I don’t really want to discourage that, but you will save tons of time if you have access to a router table.
If you wish to print them, just take them to a local digital printer store for fast easy full-sized prints.
I feel that I have more control of production with this joint, I can come up with a better fitting joint and I have more options for anchoring the neck to the guitar body.
I make sure that the neck, headpiece and heel materials are all dead level on each side of the guitar and there is not a bit of variation. If they are sloppy and not exactly equal on either side of the tenon, fitting your neck later on will be a nightmare. This distance will be exactly the distance from the back of the nut to the center of the 12th or 14th fret (depending on the instrument being made). If you do this it is better to use a deeper saw like a miter saw for better control of your vertical cut. Dry fit the joint, use shims to place the Head-block in the proper orientation to the neck and clamp this together. The brass inserts are drilled into the tenon and the Head Block is drilled out to receive the Stainless Steel Bolts, which have an internal hex head for tightening with a allen wrench. You can even do it without seeing any glue joint. This method will allow mounting and removal of the neck with easy, which is needed when aligning the neck both horizontally and laterally with the instrument body.


After all, when you get stock kick-backs, crooked cuts and burned cuts, that is enough for anybody to throw in the towel. As it turns out I was hogging the wood through a blade that was just a little off from exact parallel to the table. If it does not, loosen the adjustment mechanism, which varies with each fence and align it so the fence follows the edge of the slot exactly. There is almost always just a bit of a gap, but if you have major differences, your saw was made very poorly. I have saved loosing an eye may times by having a splinter or even larger piece of wood hit the lens of my safety glasses.
This is a standard rule, even when you have all the anti-kickback measures installed on the saw. Not only will they give you precise adjustment, they will make this jig a masterpiece in your shop. There are variations from bolt manufacturer to manufacturer and you should have them in hand before you start your milling processes.
With this handy little bench top or stationary tool you can precisely cut all of these difficult slots, channels etc. You are placing the jig on a completely finished guitar in most cases and it is easy to put a ding in that new finish with a sharp jig edge or corner.
I have given you a pattern that I used from my Dremel Router, but yours may be slightly different and you will then need to make adjustments to the jig dimensions. Upon finishing the mortise and tenon elements of the neck and head block, there are several alternatives for the actual attachment of the neck to the body.
Make sure your neck is consistent in thickness as well (you should have done this prior to gluing it up.) Also make sure that the end of the heel is exactly square. You should carefully mark the lines on all three accessible sides of the neck so you can gauge your cutting progress. Drill two holes on either side of the tendon, using a drill press that will fit dowel stock that you intend to use. I leave the dowel heads down just a bit to allow for easy drill-out in case a neck reset is required. The idea here is that the pins are friction fit and eliminates the need for a glued joint for the neck. Double check the center-line of the guitar body to the center-line of the neck and make sure there is no discrepancy. This method is too complex for this discussion and will be addressed in a separate article. This refined jig has total control over saddle angle, cutting length and clamping an holding ability.
I would sell the saw and get a well constructed saw, rather than pay to get the table re-ground, which can be a painful ordeal that costs a lot of money. This blade will crosscut (cut against the grain) and rip (cut with the grain), equally well. If you find a difference you will need to loosen the attachment bolts and move the entire blade mechanism until it is absolutely perfect.



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