Dcdc power supply isolated

Sometime in 2001 I came across some posts where people had started to take some of the newer and smaller form factor PCs and installed them in their car. A year or two ago, after a couple of tips on a few forums, I discovered that several people were selling kiosk PCs for amazing prices on eBay. After some evaluation I came to the conclusion that this screen just wouldn't work in my car.
To power my carputer I didn't want to use an inverter to convert my car's 12V DC to AC and then back down to DC again with a normal ATX power supply. On a trial run of the system I found the onboard sound to be of horrible quality so I bought a refurbished Creative Sound Blaster USB MP3+ device.
I pulled out the regular AC-DC power supply that came with the computer and drilled some holes in the case to mount my DC-DC power supply in the same place.
I installed a large eyebolt into the top of the case to loop a rope or bungee cord through it to keep it from sliding around in my car.
I ditched the puny stock heatsink and fan combo and went with a huge copper heatsink and fan combo to make sure there was no way for the processor to overheat even during the 100+ degree F summer heat. As you may know I'm a huge Linux advocate so it was a tough choice choosing between Linux or Windows on this project. Thankfully the kiosk PC also has 100mb Ethernet so copying over 12GB of music wasn't an all day affair like it would have been with 802.11b.
The GPS receiver and 802.11b antenna sit in my back window and seem to have solid connections. DC-DC Converter Tutorial Switching power supplies offer higher efficiency than traditional linear power supplies. Why not tell us and our B2B sales team about your specific business needs and expectations?
Nixie tubes need about ~180Vdc to light up and thus on most devices a DC-DC converter is needed.
I picked up a Celeron 466 with 256MB RAM, a 20GB HD all in a industrial strength box with power supply.
I didn't want to drag 100ft of Cat5 cable out my front door to my car so Wi-Fi was my first choice.

Since I wasn't going to use the integrated sound I went ahead and disabled it with a jumper setting.
I finally decided on Windows because it provided me with plug and play for my unique hardware.
Media Engine will optionally keep itself synced with another computer so anytime you get new music it can be copied over with a push of a button. To wire my car PC I bought a Scosche Professional Amplifier Wiring Kit from Wal-Mart for around $11.
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We designed here a simple DC-DC switching regulator capable of powering most of Nixie tubes. This controller works up to 300kHz switching frequency and that allows the usage of miniature surface mount components.
If that isn't cool enough, it was equipped with a 12" backlit color touchscreen LCD all for just $250. It also wasn't designed to be separated from the box and doing so would be a giant pain if not completely impossible. The sound is crisp and clear with no background noise and doesn't skip or underrun even on this older PC. This worked out really well and I don't have to worry about it coming loose and flying around in the case during my crazy driving. The best car PC software and GPS software only seems to be available on the Windows platform as well. I bought a Logisys 12V remote controller from SVC that would allow me to turn on or off the machine with a push of a button.
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I then mounted a 60mm fan to the back of the case to draw air over the power supply's heatsinks. I chose Media Engine for my car PC GUI and Microsoft's Streets & Trips for my GPS software.

I figured I could turn on my PC, dump new media to my car PC, and turn it off all without leaving the comfort of my desk chair. The audio goes into my CD deck which has an AUX jack on the front and makes changing between the radio, CD, and carputer a snap. In this module the output voltage is configured higher at ~180Vdc using external resistors and a potentiometer. The TM-868 is a $150 8" USB touch screen that supports multiple inputs including VGA, has a wide viewing angle, and already runs on 12V.
The box didn't come with any USB slots which I needed for the LCD so that was the obvious 2nd pick.
I went with Windows XP and shutoff all theming and unnecessary services in order to speed up my boot time.
It works amazingly well but dose add an additional step to my car startup and shutdown procedure.
I also spent some time in the PC's BIOS and turned off all the devices I wasn't going to use. Unfortunately the time it takes from power to when the interface is ready is still almost a minute.
I may look into Windows Tablet or Media Edition if they can help to reduce my boot time further. It provides plenty of power for my carputer plus a small amp or powered sub if I ever want to add one in the future. Tesekkurler gevv 50n06 olur irfz44, irf3510, irf3205 olur frd kolay gelsin, devreye baslad?m bitti say?l?r mje 13007 silikon transistor olabilir mi ?
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