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If there is one hotly debated topic among pet lovers it is whether or not crate training a dog is a good idea.
While it may be difficult for older dogs to start crate-training, puppies should have no problem adjusting to the cozy safety that promises hours of uninterrupted sleep. But remember that just like eating and going for walks, spending time in the crate is only one element that rounds out your canine companion’s day. If you put the animal into the crate during your absence from home or overnight, provide plenty of stimulation in the form of challenging chew toys.
Although, I always felt that dogs need to be outside in the clean fresh air and a place to run we have double car garage and a carport that is behind the house . Our anti-spam protection requires that you enable JavaScript in your browser to be able to comment! She has acquired a long haired Chihuahua and she was in need of some potty training advice. Potty training is one of those subjects that I have written most, well not most, but MANY articles on so if you need help I will add some links but here is one now if you need it click here. Leave it to family to take the wind out of your sails, knock you down a couple of rungs and teach you a little humility.
So, I figured if my niece didn’t know anything about crate training, there are probably other’s out there with some of the same questions! Crated dogs can’t chew electric cords, get into your medication, chew batteries or anything else that might kill them.
Provided that the crate you got for him is not too big crates making going potty uncomfortable. If you pee or poop in your crate; you are going to have to lay in it until someone comes along and lets you out. And, let’s face it as long as you keep your dog clean, chances are he is going to desire to be clean. And, once he has an accident in his crate he realizes this; and it gives him motivation and teaches him to hold his bladder etc.
And, if you crate young puppies until they poop or pee on themselves… it simply desensitizes them to being clean.  They learn that being dirty and stinky is just part of life! So if you have an 8 week old puppy (2 months old) he should only be crated a maximum of 3 hours.
When you are thinking about crate training and purchasing a crate I recommend getting a crate that will be big enough for your adult dog. Unless you have oodles of money laying around, I would not necessarily get a crate the size of your puppy and then continue to get bigger crates as he ages. And, don’t think you aren’t going to need a crate when your dog is full grown, because crate training has its benefits throughout the lifetime of your dog! Instead I would recommend getting a crate big enough for your adult dog and partitioning it off to be smaller depending on the size of your puppy.
If the crate is TOOOO big, chances are your puppy can have an accident at one end of the crate and lay at the other end, which mostly defeats the purpose of crate training.
There are times I would rather use a very large crate, which when your dog gains bladder control will help with the potty training process and is not developing the habit of going potty in the house.
So if I had an 8 week old Chihuahua puppy and I was going to be gone for 3 hours or more at a time and I couldn’t get someone to come and let him out, and I couldn’t take him to daycare somewhere… I would get a large or XL crate so that he could potty at one end (on a puppy pad) and lay at the other. I would prefer this to having my puppy think it is okay to potty in the bathroom, or laundry room which is likely to carry over to when I am home. Wire or Plastic is up to you… however most of the time I like plastic crates because they feel more like a den and most dogs seem to like them better because they are less visually stimulating. The best way to do that is to provide him with a hefty amount of exercise prior to crating him so he will be too tired to care that he is in a crate.
If he has just woke up from a nap and you slide him into a crate he is much more likely to have a terrible fit and a bad experience; which will make crating him next time more traumatic.
When he is exhausted, he might have a small puppy fit; but then he is probably going to take a nap which will help make his experience more pleasurable. I also usually start crate training, the first night they come home, (after I exercise them) and I put that crate next to the side of my bed. Remember that if he is a puppy, he has probably come from an environment where he is used to hearing his littermates at night and going into a totally sterile environment with no noise at all is going to be a bit terrifying for him!
I have found that putting him next to the bed, helps us both sleep and helps with potty training! I toss treats inside, I throw their toys in and encourage them to run inside and get whatever I have tossed in.
If you get a piece of chicken every time you get into your crate, you are much more likely to enjoy running and putting yourself into your crate and this keeps owners from having to grab and shove dogs in crates; or try and catch them to crate them. So I play games  and the longer you (the dog) choose to stay in your crate the better and more treats you get. Whenever I leave my dog, or puppy for the first time I want to make it as pleasurable as possible. I also make sure to leave some kind of music, TV, or other noise on while I am gone so my pup doesn’t panic. Instead they hear the neighbors, or the sounds outside, the mailman and other noises that may scare them and cause them to bark.
To avoid this, I leave the TV or my IPOD playing quite loudly so that my dog can relax without hearing outside stimulation. I don’t want them to associate my leaving with crate training or spending time in their crate, or this can create fears or bad feelings with my leaving. Instead, I crate my dogs before I train with them (so that crating is associated with something positive) and I also crate them periodically during the day. This way I can hear what they are doing, and I can reward good quiet behavior and just get them used to it on a consistent basis. It keeps your dog safe, your things safe and it gives your dog (who is a den animal) a safe place when you travel or no matter where you go!
I admit crate training is the best.Potty accidents drastically decreased as soon i got him a crate. As soon as I took my other dog (mountain terrier 9yrs old)out for the walk,my new puppy would start barking (which i ignored) so by the time I was back he would have relieved himself in his cage even if I had just taken him out before taking my other dog out..
So from next day, I just gave him specific time to relieve himself (no extra time) and I completely ignored him when he started his tantrums.. I guess now I have finally started to think like my puppy n I am able to understand him better.
My Havanese pup goes to the door when she needs to relieve herself, however, at night she is peeing and pooping in her crate.
You MUST go outside with him for a while when you let him out to know what his schedule is like.
Should we move him to another part of the house where we could hawk eye him all the time when not in crate and just keep taking him out when he looks like he will potty?
I don’t use potty pads because they are confusing, I use my crate if I am gone or can’t watch my dog!
Maybe you already started crate training your puppy and have already hit those frustrating first few days or maybe you are just prepping for that new puppy. If you live in Orange County, California then you may have noticed that we’ve had some hot, windy days over the past month.
When I first crate trained Linus I never thought it would help him with anxiety, but it does and thank goodness for that. While driving around in the car with your puppy there are several safer options then letting your puppy hop around the front or backseat sticking his head out the window. If your puppy is loose in the car and you get in an accident this could be deadly for both you and your pup. If your puppy is loose in the car and sticking his head out the window he could fall out (believe me I’ve seen it happen). If your puppy is loose in the car he could distract you and cause you to get in an accident. As I said crating your puppy is not the only safe way to drive with your puppy, but it is a better option then allowing your puppy to be loose in the car while driving. We adopted Stetson after he was dropped from the Guide Dog program and we wanted to continue training him in some aspect so we decided to enroll him in K9 Nosework training.
While both options were okay, crating your dog was preferable especially on warm days when you would not want to leave your dog in the car. Lucky for us we crate trained Stetson and he had no problem sitting quietly in his crate waiting for his turn.
We don’t participate in all of the different canine sports and activities, but I know there are others that probably require your dog to be crated while other dogs compete.
While we haven’t gone on a ton of trips with our puppies in training we have been on a few. While your dog may be perfectly trained a new, stressful situation like a hotel room may cause him to act out in some way.
The first few days of crate training are probably some of the most difficult times for most puppy raisers. About ColbyColby Morita has raised guide and service dog puppies for Guide Dogs of America and Canine Support Teams. Our guide dog puppies have to follow some pretty strict rules since they will be working in the public. Over the past seven years we’ve learned quite a bit about crate training puppies from crate training our first puppy, Linus who we rescued from the animal shelter, to working on crate training litters of puppies as foster parents, and finally crate training our very own guide dog puppies as guide dog puppy raisers. If you get to meet your pups litter mates then bring a plush toy or blanket to rub all over his litter mates. If your pup wakes up crying in the middle of the night take him straight to his potty spot to relieve himself.
If you have a wire crate try putting a sheet over it to make him feel more cozy and enclosed. Put your crate near the bed where your puppy can see you and if he starts crying hang your arm down so he can smell your scent. Try leaving the door open but lying down across the doorway of the crate as if to nap with him, to make him feel more comfortable in the crate, and at the same time make my body block the doorway. The one that worked for me and Stetson – I was a wreck and I thought Stetson would never get used to his crate.


In Episode 1 of Puppy In Training TV we talked about some of the first things we do when bringing home a puppy.
Hi, we have an 11 week year old lab, we got her at 8 weeks old and began crate training her first night home.
Hello Colby, Six days ago I picked up a seven week old husky-terrier mix named hiccup and I’ve had some issues with her not sleeping at night in her kennel.
For people who work all day I recommend getting a family member, friend, neighbor, or pet sitter to help out with the training during the day. My husband had initially taken his blanket out of the crate because he thought he didn’t like it, however, I put the blanket back into his crate and will start to feed him in it as well with the hope that this will help solve the problem. Can you tell me more about what you mean when you say not to crate your puppy for more than 2 hours?
We have a 14 week old shepherd mix that will cry for an hour or more each night in her crate. Hi Colby i’m Sue and I just got a Jack Russel mix with boxer and she is 13 weeks she hates her crate and she goes potty in it and everything. Hey I just got a 8 weeks golden doodle puppy last week , unfortunately my dad and I work all day, so I keep him in his crate for about 4-6 hours during the day.
When it comes to night time, he only really whined the first few days but only for a few minutes, and i ignored it, and praised him once he was quiet.
Most puppies we’ve raised take at least a week and up to a month to adjust to the crate. If he’s escaping his crate maybe you could try getting him a new crate that he cannot escape or make some changes to the old crate so he cannot escape. Don't concern yourself over the odd mistake, be ready that if you are bringing a puppy into your house, there is going to be a training period and that means mistakes during this period, especially if you are not paying attention to your pups routines and cues.
Developing a schedule is the best method - feed in a routine and provide opportunities for relieving in a routine. As your puppy matures over the first 4 weeks or so, you get to know each other quite well and you will start to pick up on little cues from your puppy as to when he may need to go, and your puppy begins to pick up on cues from you that you are going to offer him the opportunity to go.
Crate training is not at all cruel, in fact it can provide your puppy with is own private area which they grow to love and feel secure in.
Put a chew toy in the crate with the door closed so the puppy will want to get in, and leave closed for a while, then open the door and let him in.
Begin putting him in the crate with a chew toy or treat once you feel he is very comfortable with the crate and ensure you are always around and in sight. Barking is normal dog behaviour, and most people understand and tolerate some level of barking in some situations.
Livestock guarding dogs in areas of high predation by other dogs may well bark a lot more than others, and the barking may well be justified from the position of protecting your livestock. This is a critical skill that will make your entire life with your dog so much easier, less stressful and safe.
Start this training as early as possible and use a very light weight lead and collar that fits comfortably.
If he tries to dislodge and remove it, ignore him until he settles and forgets it before taking it off. Attach the leash - let him inspect it first or whilst attached, and don't attempt to walk him yet, just let him forget it and become comfortable with it on. When you feel he is ready, pick up the lead and just walk about a bit, encouraging the puppy to follow you anyway, not pulling the puppy along with the lead.
If he strains on the leash, just stop walking, and crouch calling him back to you, and praise him for responding. Do not yank on the lead or pull him to you, teach him that he needs to come to you and be by your side. It won't take too long doing this inside the house or backyard until you can attempt to take your pup out in public on a lead.
This video is a great demonstration of what you want your dog to be like when walking with you.
Some dog lovers suggest that the crate is little more than a cage prison for an animal that craves pack interaction. If you consider that – just like cats – dogs do sleep the majority of the day away, it makes sense to provide the animal with a place that protects it from inquisitive children and other pets. Left to its own devices, a puppy may chew on your slippers, leather shoes, rug or any other household item that appeals to its senses.
We are having a modern fence put around the carport just for her to play around in when we are away, maybe a crate would be better for deep relaxing quiet sleep . I probably bought the wrong kind of crate( a wire one) but I had the same thinking on purchasing a crate the size for my puppy to fit in when she would be full grown and save on money. He did have few peeing accidents(not accidents really, i would say he did that on purpose)few weeks back, to get my attention. At first, I thought I didn’t give him enough time to relieve himself so i started giving him longer breaks to relieve himself but then he would just fool around n would just pee a little bit once or twice. She seems calmer in her crate and now I let her roam my apartment without being confined and she still seems to go lay in the crate when I leave. He was fully house trained you could leave him all day in the house would never go on the floor.We also have our old dog but 1 year old was fine with that.
My question is, are we regressing in our potty training whenever we can’t watch him and have no choice but to leave him out so he won’t be forced to soil his crate? We put toys, treats in there but he associates the crate to us leaving him with the gate closed so he will try his best to not stay in.
So when we got our second pup a few months ago at 8 weeks ( a found stray) crate training was a no-brainer. Crate training your puppy is very important and is also beneficial as you have explained in your post. I’ve also heard of a toy that has a thing on the inside that you can warm on the inside and insert in the toy. The only way I was able to get him to sleep was to talk to him for 5-10 minutes, telling him what a “good boy” he was when he wasn’t crying (if he did cry I would just keep silent tell he stopped). Make sure and clean any area where your puppy has had an accident with an enzymatic cleaner like Nature’s Miracle. I feed her all of her meals in there, and even reward her with treats when she’s being good in it during the day. She goes potty outside with my german shepherd, also a little less than a year old but sometimes she sneaks off and does it in the house.
He wasn’t crate trained to sleep in his kennel but throughout the day we would leave him in there for short periods of time.
The first night he cried for about 30 minutes and went to sleep fine, after the first night he has been sleeping through the night. My husband and I got another Frenchie, she is 18 weeks (we got her at 16 weeks) she was at a breeder in a kennel that she would pee and poop in and it would fall to the bottom. The first thing I did was make him feel comfortable getting into the crate and that has continued, he goes in there without any directions.
He is not potty trained yet so i can’t leave him freely roaming, how could i reinforce that he is not being punished, but that i have to leave to work ?
The only problem i am having now is that when is time for me to sleep i try putting him inside the crate and he won’t go or stay, i have to give him treats and block his way out in order to close the door, i really like for him to start doing it freely at night, help ?
Dogs are clean animals and do not like to soil places where they sleep and eat, however a house is a large area to a puppy and they need to learn that it is not the appropriate place to go. You can take the training to the next level of teaching your puppy to ask you to let him out. I love the crate setup for this pup if you can't be with your pup for longer periods of time.
No matter what you think, your puppy has no way to connect eliminating in a spot in the house 10 minutes ago with having his face rubbed in it. Others counter with the suggestion that the right type of crate becomes a much-needed retreat from the busyness of life and the comings and goings of the household members and their friends. The dog still needs to exercise, play, interact with you and others in the household, and also go potty. Moreover, the dog should be able to lie down with it legs fully stretched out for maximum comfort.
By confining the young animal to a space and giving it approved chew toys to work on, you not only train the puppy to exercise its teeth and chewing instinct with the proper tools, but you also protect your furnishings. For example, if the dog experiences severe separation anxiety or expresses a repeated fear of the crate itself, talk to one of our trained professionals. Also dogs prefer quality time playing and working with their pet parents over just time in a yard.
Well my little puppy got her mussel caught in between the wires somehow and it was a very traumatic experience for her and me and it happened because the squares on the crate were larger in the big crate and she was able to fit her nose where it should not have been.
Now have a bichon puppy and 1 year old who was fully house broke is now pooping on the floor never pees on floor .
We were taking him out overnight (when he is fully crated) every 2 hrs and have incrementally increased that time to every 4 hrs. And then for those times when we are gone 4+ hrs to just put him in the bathroom with crate door open?
I let her out, watch her do her business and then even if I crate her for 20 minutes she will poop (never pee) in her crate. If she falls asleep on the floor in my room I will put her in the kennel and she’s good, for about thirty minutes.
He has been potty trained with an occasional accident but he does sleep through the night without potty breaks. Of course he yowled and cried the first time in the crate but we kept on with the training. I would like to take him to training classes but I think he needs to respond to his name first. The first night we bought him home he stayed in his crate but woke up a 2am, and of course I took him out so that he could do his business, and yes I praised him and continue to praise him every time he goes outside, that has ceased as he will hold his urine throughout the night.
People often say, oh no, he knows he did wrong you should have seen his face and him slink away. We have seen the dogs that have been trained with this method as well as those that were being trained without it.


If you are using the crate only for potty-training, buy one that is not so large that the animal can free up a spot for elimination.
If the animal is not tired when confined to the crate, a chew toy will keep it busy for a while.
We can usually help you and the dog to turn crate time into a rewarding experience for both you and the pet. He too would sit comfortably in his cage(as long as he couldn’t see me) but as soon as i open our main gate to take my other dog out he would start yelping n barking n peeing. We keep his crate in the bathroom and sometimes leave the crate open when we are gone for long periods of time. I’ve tried putting his meals inside the crate for more positive association but the bowl moves around when he tries to eat out of it from there and it scares him! I was petrified after talking to other pet parents I’ve found that this is a common behavior. Sometimes she just has to potty but at around two in the morning she wails and cries so loudly she wakes up the whole house and sounds something fierce, somewhere between a monkey and a pig. Sometimes she goes to the door, sometimes I see her sneaking off into a room and i can catch her before her accident.
Thus, our experts conclude that crate training – done correctly – is actually a very good thing for your dog. A dog sleeping with you in your bed is more a comfort for the owner, usually, than for the dog.
He would consistently pee at two spots in the bathroom (which we now always have potty pads there) and only poop in 1 of 2 spots that is most hidden from sight.
Do you have suggestions for other ways to make it so we condition him to love that little plastic den? But sometimes she acts like she had some of this being-a-dog stuff down pat and other times she acts like a regular you-talkin-to-me?
When I travel and have him stay with friends I bring his kennel with him and it’s his personal spot and if he needs a break from their children he retreats to it.
I don’t know what to do and I think everyone in the house would love to get more than three hours of sleep. He never potties in it, goes in on his own for naps during the day, and at bedtime (10 pm) he goes into the crate no problem.
I wake up in the middle of the night to let her out and she is still having accidents and doesn’t mind laying in it and eating her poop.
Depending on your puppy’s personality and how things go, this whole process could take a week or a month.
Additionally I will leave him with his trainer if I have a long day at work and will be away for a while and he will find his crate when he is done interacting and wants to be left alone. I am home all day with both of the dogs and I am at my breaking point and thinking of maybe finding a new home for her. HOWEVER, between 4:30 and 5 am he is screeching, howling and whining and chewing the crate bars.
He behaves fine when I am with him, which is most of the time…but I cant even run to the store without coming home to very, very destructive, if not dangerous behavior. They had the occasional hiccup, but were very receptive to the crate after decent training.However, growing up I had a Lurcher-cross-Terrier that we adopted and she took a lot of work before she was happy being crated for anything more than 15 minutes. It was too much stimulation for her until I wrapped it in a heavy blanket leaving only the door part uncovered. He doesn’t bark or whine to go out side, we just have to watch for when he is sniffing around. They would whine or bark at 4 or 6 am so I would let them out of mommy’s crate to potty on the paper.
I don’t rush in to him when he cries, but this little guy will whine, wimper and bark for over an hour until I give in because I need sleep! You want to make it inviting and comfortable to lay in.If you happen to be crating more than one dog, follow a one dog per crate rule. A crate belongs to a single dog and is their own special place and not for sharing, particularly because dogs confined together are more likely to fight and there will be no escape.Finally, for safety reasons, before you ever allow your puppy into the crate, make sure they have nothing on. Do not make a fuss of the crate.Let your puppy investigate it all by themselves as they go around eating the treats.
When they do, pop a few more just inside for them to eat.After a few minutes, move away with your puppy and do something else. When they’re not looking, add a few more treats close to and just inside the crate, then go back to it and let your puppy investigate. This will help prevent them bolting out when the door opens later in life.Step 8Have your puppy lie down in the crate. Throwing a treat right into the back so they have to go all the way in to get it is just doomed to failure, just too big an ask.
Remember, we’re trying to take as many small steps as possible to promote the greatest chance of success! Click and praise every time, but do not reward every time.If you were to reward 100% of the time your puppy will learn to expect it and be disappointed and then rebel if they do not get rewarded. They will perform only for the treat and only when they want the treat, not at any other time. Ask for 10 seconds, then 20, then 40, then go back to an easy 5 before asking for 15 again. Then increase by 30 seconds at a time until you can get to half an hour and beyond.Again though, be sure to mix up the durations you ask your puppy to spend in the crate. Lots of short little times with longer ones mixed in.Perhaps over the course of a day, ask for 10 minutes for breakfast, then 3 minutes close to lunch, then 20 minutes for dinner, 2 lots of 3 minutes between dinner and bedtime, then all overnight. At the vets or when boarding, there will be many distractions outside of the crate and you should prepare them for this.Step 19Now puppy can remain calmly in the crate with the door closed, you need to start adding distractions.
Play catch with a friend.Start with small distractions and build up to more noise and more motion slowly.Step 20The final step!
Then train in your car if it fits or you have a car crate.Finally, although not easy, try to do some crate training in friends houses and gardens. And for house training reasons you do not want them pottying in their crate or inside your home. After this just once after 4 hours and then you can begin to stretch the time out until they last the night fully at 12 weeks+.When going for a potty break, you must be absolutely silent. So how do you make sure you aren’t ignoring a basic need and are only ignoring cries for attention?First of all you want to make sure they are empty before bed. This means do not feed them in the 3 hours before and do not allow them to load up on water in the 2 hours before bed time. Some people don’t mind carrying the one crate from room to room, others buy two having one in each of the living area and the bedroom. Keep them out with you, on blankets or towels if supervised, or kept safe in an open top cardboard box if not.
This will help to avoid any feelings of being alone, of being abandoned and associating these feelings with the crate.Crate them little and often while you are in the same room. This will teach them that being quiet is the only way to get you to come to them.As you approach, if they start to scream again, simply ignore them. Stay in the room but busy yourself doing something else and do not turn your attention to them until they’re quiet again. All logic says it will go much smoother as it’s so unforced and running at your dogs own pace, therefore it will be far less stressful and almost certainly have a higher chance of success than rushing it. All it requires is to follow the rules and steps laid out above and the patience and dedication to see it through calmly and methodically.Some people may encounter problems. I read the articles in the rest of the series and have been waiting for instructions to start crate training my Lab puppy. We will not crate her often, but just to help break the chewing habit as it’s getting expensive. I wanted to crate train her, but it may be too late now because we have been putting her in there to sleep at night. She doesn’t hate it in there, but definitely howls and cries for a good amount of time before stopping.
Most other websites have always said to put her in the crate and, as hard as it is, ignore her whining until it stops on her own (given that she doesn’t need to be taken out).Thanks in advance! You should go to her just once during the night to SILENTLY take her to her bathroom spot (at 10 weeks it’s unlikely she can last the night). Any attention she receives will likely reinforce her behavior because you will inadvertently teach her that if she makes a noise for long enough, eventually you will come. And when you go to her in the morning to let her out, you should go to the crate and patiently wait there for silence before you give any attention or let her out.
To her, going in the crate to sleep at night is entirely different to being crated during the day, entirely different again to being crated when you leave the house, and different again to using the crate as her own special den and place to go to for calm and quiet. However I am about to become a foster mum to a 13mth old Malamute x husky rescue dog who has moderate food aggression. That’s gonna be a beautiful looking dog!I keep reading conflicting views on whether to feed a resource guarding dog in a crate or not.
And I think your point of ‘it may add another ‘coveted item’ to her aggression‘ is very valid too! Dogs already see their crate as their own, and if they are prone to food guarding it might have some sort of stacking affect making her doubly on guard.
But it would benefit her greatly to be able to eat alone, in peace, and not have situations arise where she feels she needs to guard her food.
This can be achieved by making sure every person in the home knows not to approach her while eating, but also keeping other pets away too. Preferably this would mean feeding her alone in a separate room where she will not be approached, but if this isn’t possible then maybe feeding her in her crate is an occasional answer?Moving forward though, I would use as many meal times as possible as an opportunity to treat her food guarding problem.




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Comments

  1. Akira, 19.03.2015
    Potty train my kid actually willing to put her.
  2. Polat_Alemdar, 19.03.2015
    Distress, try distracting her with.
  3. kisa, 19.03.2015
    Particular of the toughest issues children are ready as young there's no point starting potty training whilst your.
  4. Reksane, 19.03.2015
    For some time after they're dry in the out you can afford to do this.