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Birla White is India’s largest white cement producer and thus offers various products related to the cement. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 8DOMESTIC ICEMAKERS8-1 ICEMAKER TYPESIcemakers are divided into two basic types; flex-tray and hard tray.
Below you will find my guide to the process I used to customize one of theA many Don Post Boba Fett helmets I've worked on both for myself and others as well.
Due to the design of the Dremel, it was too difficult to cleanly cut the far corners of the T-Visor area. Take an electric drill fitted with a very small drill bit and drill holes into the depressions of the key slots.
Soak up some paper towels with acetone and scrub the helmet down until all of the exterior paint is wiped away leaving only the nasty green finish of the vinyl plastic. RLM 73 can be a very difficult color to find - and Tower Hobbies was the only place I found to carry it. Tip: If you have a VERY fine point paint brush, you can apply (by hand) the symbols found on the ear pieces. I downloaded the kill stripe template from The Dented Helmet and printed it out on paper that wasn't too flimsy. Mask the rest of your helmet so that paint will not get on it during the upcoming painting process.
Trouble Shooting: If you opt to use a paint brush as opposed to an air brush, you will likely encounter paint that drips behind the mask you applied. Take very fine grit sand paper and gently wipe down the yellow paint residue between your masked areasA so that your surface is once again smooth.
The purpose of scratching is to give the illusion of battle damage by revealing the chrome silver undercoat.
I next worked on the headband area around the helmet - following a bit of the MR helmet as well as using personal discretion.
I next worked on the sides of the helmet, around and on the Panzer Olive Green ear-piece.a€?a€?Finally, I tackled the back of the helmet which was a nightmare.
Here is the Mystery Helmet I did in 2008 that features a much more elaborate damage pattern.
I used 3M adhesive spray to affix the material to the visible side of the foam (the part that would be touching your head), and then sprayed the other side so that it would stick to the inside of the helmet.
Additionally, I would recommend using a Dremel to cut out your visor for the simple reason that scissors are challenging to cut with and not scratch the underside of the visor (i.e. Unlike the Mystery Helmet which has a rigid body to it, the DP helmets are reasonably flexible, and that can create all sorts of problems if you are trying to hold a lens in place and glue it at the same time without making a mess. For the lower cheeks, you can use regular masking tape since the chrome color won't peel off when the tape is removed.
If you are using PRR Brunswick Green for the first time, you may be freaked out by it's extremely dark color. What's not shown in this picture is that I tucked a few paper towels into the top of the masking tape to protect the dome from overspray.A  The more you paint you apply in previous steps, the more effort you must take to protect it.
During my Mystery Helmet project last year (2008) I had three separate shipments of coagulated RLM 73 paint that were completely un-useable.
I'd definitely give this an upvote if this answer gave me a better clue of what Dynamic means. The answer from jscott is correct, however after reading it, it was still not completely clear to me when should I use local and when remote.
Use local if you need to if you have a service running on a machine that can be reached from the remote machine, and you want to access it directly from the local machine. Use remote if you have a service that can be reached from the local machine, and you need to make it available to the remote machine.
Specifically, remote opens the listening socket on the machine you have used SSH to log into.
Not the answer you're looking for?Browse other questions tagged ssh-tunnel or ask your own question. Would an encryption scheme that generates an extra key to be securely stored offsite be a safe backdoor?
If we had a "perfectly efficient" computer and all the energy in the Milky-way available, what number could it count to?
Birla White Cement is whitest white cement that is considered to be of high quality and is best suited to specialty applications where appearance is a high priority, whereas Birla Putty is used to facilitate care for walls. To start with Birla white cement; it is a white cement and can mix with other inorganic pigments. A Before each chapter, I noted the tools and supplies needed, and the approximate amount of time you'll need to invest. The curvature of the lens is too extreme and hardly pliable to accommodate a Don Post Helmet without excessive force (e.g. A As a result, I got as far as I could and literally pulled out the remaining tab with a pair of needle-nosed pliers.
A This will remove all of the slick paint Don Post used, and allow your primer and base coats to adhere better.a€?a€?Let dry for about 20 or 30 minutes and then sand it down with a fine sandpaper. A A I let this sit in the hot summer sun for about four hours, and then stored the helmet inside overnight without any more work done to it. A The visible textures are due to the molding process of the helmet - not inconsistencies in the paint layers. A I would suggest applying two coats, one hour apart from each othera€?a€?I should also note that some people have difficulty masking the T-visor due to the curvature. A Masking this area can be very tricky due to the curvature both above (where it meets the T-visor) and below (where the lower cheeks are).
A That being said, if you do order it through Tower Hobbies, make sure you speak with a customer service rep and explain that you want the bottles checked for freshness prior to them being shipped.
A Here, I would advise painting by hand, letting the area dry, and then lightly dusted the area using an airbrush to remove any brush strokes that might have been showing. Because of the curvature of the pieces, focused spraying will result in pooling or excessive dripping. A It is recommended that you start off with just a dusting and let dry, then follow up with a more thorough coat.
A If that's the case, use a sharp pointed steak knife and just scratch out the excess Concrete color to reveal the Panzer Olive underneath. A If you find that your brush is too soft despite being a fine point, dip your brush into the Flat Black paint and let it dry.
A Before the paint was fully dry, I placed a piece of purple painters tape OVER my new paint work, and pulled it off almost immediately.
A To erase these, simply mask the top portions of the stripes with a little bit of tape, and dust the area with Panzer Olive Green from a distance of about 14" inches. A For the most part, I identified the major scratches and locations and started with those. If you've seen the movie production helmet, or the MR helmet, it's an un-patterned mess of four colors: Concrete, Light Gray, Lark Dark Gray, and Green RLM 25. A Some of the target areas have a similar outline to the Master Replicas Fett helmet, but just not as elaborate. A With double-epoxy, small globs of it can be applied with relative ease, and with much less chance of making a mess as compared to using a caulking gun with Liquid Nails. Two more pieces can be used at each corner of the T-visora€™s eye line too provided you have enough overlap on the inside of the helmet. A He suggests mixing the washer fluid and black paint in a regular sprayer bottle, lightly spraying the helmetA and immediately wiping off with a clean rag. A This will remove all of the slick paint Don Post used, and allow your primer and base coats to adhere better.Let dry for about 20 or 30 minutes and then sand it down with a fine sandpaper. A I would suggest applying two coats, one hour apart from each otherI should also note that some people have difficulty masking the T-visor due to the curvature.
Unfortunately your answer does not contribute or add to the discussion, especially for a question which was answered last year.
Its wash gives a shinny lustrous matt finish to walls and is used for various applications like smooth plaster, textured plaster, architectural finishes etc.
It basically serves purposes like leveling of wall surfaces, and being a protective base for expensive paints and many more. Also like manual molds, when it comes time to eject (harvest) the ice from the mold, it invertsand twists, "popping" out the ice. A The experience I gained from customizing numerous DP helmets over the years gave me the confidence to finish my Mystery Helmet last year - that of which I am very proud of. A Generally, I prefer to cut them out and add a screen on the inside to improve air-flow to the interior of the helmet, but in the case of this particular helmet, I chose not to. A The purpose of this is to weaken the plastic, and to make cutting with an X-Acto knife much easier.a€?a€?When finished with the drilling, use an X-Acto knife to cut the key slot impressions exactly way they are molded. A Wipe down the helmet with a dry paper towel to remove any sanding dust, and proceed to coat it with primer.a€?a€?If you use Duracoat filler primer, only one coat is needed. A The painters tape has less adhesive making it less likely that you'll pull the chrome off when removed. A I was not charged for the previous three shipments, and the customer service department was trying to be helpful throughout the ordeal. A Just use light coats each time until you have full coverage on the outer surfaces.a€?a€?With regard to the right ear-piece (range finder side, #1 below), I'd recommend applying the Earth color first and allowing to dry for a few days before masking off for application of the metallic color if you need to do some touch-up work. A Let the second coat dry for several hours before applying a third or fourth coat as necessary.
Please note that Don Post helmets have varied in size from one production run to the next - - and the model yearA of a DP helmet will also affect the sizing for these. A I'd recommend using an X-Acto knife which makes this task much easier than a typical razor.
A If you feel that your exposed chrome undercoats are a bit too dull, simply use a fine paint brush and apply a fresh layer of chrome silver over the chrome base. A I began with the Reefer Gray, applying it to areas of importance, and then letting it dry before applying the Lark Dark Gray. A The purpose of this is to weaken the plastic, and to make cutting with an X-Acto knife much easier.When finished with the drilling, use an X-Acto knife to cut the key slot impressions exactly way they are molded. A Wipe down the helmet with a dry paper towel to remove any sanding dust, and proceed to coat it with primer.If you use Duracoat filler primer, only one coat is needed.
A Just use light coats each time until you have full coverage on the outer surfaces.With regard to the right ear-piece (range finder side, #1 below), I'd recommend applying the Earth color first and allowing to dry for a few days before masking off for application of the metallic color if you need to do some touch-up work. Birla White Cement is white cement and white cement is mostly used to give a shinny lustrous matt finish to walls, whereas the Birla Putty is used for maintaining the walls and also for filing of small cracks in the walls.
The tray then turns back upright and refills with water for the next freeze cycle.HARD-TRAYHard-tray icemakers have a metal ice mold which is coated with a non-stick coating. A After completion of my project, I realized that I had aA considerable amount of paint left over, and could possibly customize a few more helmets with what remained. A If you still have a bit of roughness there, fold a piece of rough grit sandpaper tight enough to fit in the corners, and pull it back and forth quickly to smooth out the three areas that make up the corner.
A a€?a€?If you make any errors with regard to making them uniform, you can use Bondo glazing putty (since it's easier to sand) to re-mold them, provided you didn't screw up too much. A Regular masking tape needs to be affixed for the areas surrounding your paint-work because it will stay tight to the helmet thus reducing the likelihood of paint running behind it to parts you don't want colored. A This may take a few more coats of paint than what I've described, and may even take a day or two to verify that you have perfectly uniform coats on the helmet. A Much unlike the Mystery Helmet, the vinyl plastic of a Don Post helmet doesn't absorb paint very well. A I've found Earth to be more challenging in terms of mess and adhesionA than the other paint colors. A Unfortunately for me, I had misplaced my X-Acto knife and had to use the knife pictured below.
A Please note that the lighting situation in the two images above were considerably different at the time the photos were taken. A If you make any errors with regard to making them uniform, you can use Bondo glazing putty (since it's easier to sand) to re-mold them, provided you didn't screw up too much. A If you can't check the bottles yourself, askA  someone to do it for you.A  Trust me when I say that it will save you a considerable amount of time. This whitest white cement is considered of superior quality and is also know as a great value-for-money product. Birla White Wallcare Putty is used for providing a protective base, especially for expensive paints. Birla Putty is made from adding elements to Birla White Cement therefore; Birla White Cement acts as a base for forming putty.
A If it looks filled in and completely smooth, verify this by spraying a light coat of primer over this area. A a€?a€?After the first coat, let dry for several hours in the sun (if possible), then re-apply.a€?a€?When finished, carefully remove the painters tape so that you don't tear the previously painted areas. A a€?a€?If you opt to have brush strokes visible, be certain that they are consistent in direction. A The exact same colors were used on both helmets even though they appear to be quite different above. A So, earlier this year (2009), I decided to take on yet another DP helmet but doing so in similar fashion to the process used forA my Mystery Helmet.


A After the first coat, let dry for several hours in the sun (if possible), then re-apply.When finished, carefully remove the painters tape so that you don't tear the previously painted areas. It is an important component in the finish of a wall and also plays a vital role in application of mosaic tiles and terrazzo floorings. Additionally, you will need to sand down the back side of the T-Visor (from inside) to have a reasonably consistent depth all around so that the new visor will be flush to the plastic when installed. A I would recommend waiting a full day (whether you used one coat or two) before moving on to the next step. A The kill stripes also appear thicker on the DP helmet due to it being a smaller sizeA to the Mystery Helmet which is a 1:1 scale. A Some of the spray may bleed through your cover material once you apply it to the foam padding,A and you don't want the adhesive to touch your skin.
Birla White Cement in wash is used as a primer coat for ceramic paints as well can be used as a filler for all minor hair cracks and crevices. The amount of time spent in the freeze cycle is controlled by a number of factors depending on the individual design, but it is best explained by knowing how the harvest cycle is triggered.HARVEST CYCLEThe harvest cycle occurs when the ice is ejected from the ice mold.
A Depending on how the helmet was manufactured, there may be inconsistencies with the plastic's thickness in certain areas. A If needed, re-sand and re-apply a thin coat of Bondo glazing putty, let dry, and re-sand once again. A If you live in a warm climate or are doing this in the summer months, leave your helmet out in the hot sunlight for a few hours so that it quickly bakes on.a€?a€?I cannot emphasize enough that you don't need to prime the helmet all in one step.
A Just be sure that it is secure to the area you want masked because with light pressure, it will lift off.
A Now, take a piece of tape and cover up one stripe so that you are perfectly aligning it to one side. A Once you have some green covering the yellow, stop and wait about 10-15 minutes for it to dry.
A If you find that you are having problems removing the paint, use a very dull butter knife and try to get the scratching started, and go back to using a fingernail if you want. A This will create an illusion of impacted metal traveling in a constant direction to the upper left of your Fett helmet. A Re-mark the visor again and trim as needed.a€?a€?You will likely be close, but still off the mark by just a bit.
A It may be easier to do earlier on, but I figured I'd do last minute touch-ups when I had finally had everything installed and looking good.a€?a€?I'd recommend using a clear coat semi-gloss or flat.
A If you live in a warm climate or are doing this in the summer months, leave your helmet out in the hot sunlight for a few hours so that it quickly bakes on.I cannot emphasize enough that you don't need to prime the helmet all in one step. A I literally used 5 coats, each time having very little paint on the brush, and giving a minimum of 10-15 minutes to dry between coats.
Birla White Wallcare Putty consists of Birla White Cement, high quality polymers, specialty chemicals and mineral fillers. A If this is the case with your helmet, use the Dremel sanding cone (it's safer to use than the sanding cylinders in terms of how much plastic will wear away). A If you over spray, you will get paint runs which will cost A you more time and effort to correct (with sanding). Additionally, I would recommend using many small strips in order to follow the curvature of the area you want masked off. A There should be a small amount of space between the bottom of the horseshoe graphic and the mini-chrome platform of the range finder assembly. A Take another piece and put it on the nearest stripe aligning it perfectly the side facing the other masked stripe. A The last thing you want to do is get that sticky residue on the outer part of your helmet!a€?a€?You should now have a nicely padded helmet, though fairly smelly due to all the glue. Because I am unfamiliar with the hobby versions of clear coats by manufacturers such as Floquil or Testors, I would go with something like Krylon (in the new adjustable nozzle spray cans). A Follow up with the rough grit sandpaper to get everything uniform, and then use a fine grit sandpaper to get that perfect smoothness.a€?a€?Now, looking at the front of the helmet, be sure that the front part of the T-Visor is squared off. A Unlike regular masking tape, you can't bend the Duck Tape because the adhesive doesn't bond as well. A I used a VERY light coat the first time around (because again, that chrome under-coat is slick!) and let dry for 15 minutes.
A The Light Gray is no good over the Panzer Olive Green so stick exclusively with the Lark Dark Gray.
A a€?a€?When you can get a good fit, determine which method of affixing the visor would be best for your situation. At the time of me writing this, I have not sealed my helmet, but would assume only a light, uniform coat would be sufficient to help protect your helmet against any unwanted paint removal from accidental scrapes or bumps.a€?a€?a€?The Finished Product:a€?a€?Once again, another Fett-project that I am very proud of!
A Follow up with the rough grit sandpaper to get everything uniform, and then use a fine grit sandpaper to get that perfect smoothness.Now, looking at the front of the helmet, be sure that the front part of the T-Visor is squared off.
A Assuming that it is, take a popsicle stick and place it to the interior sides of the T-Visor and see how straight your cuts were.
A I then applied a second coat that provided nearly 100% coverage and let dry for a half hour. Repeat this process across the rest of the kill stripes (though be aware that because of your tape placement, some stripes will have to be corrected later on).
A As bad as this interior work smells after being completed, the MR Boba Fett helmet was as bad if not worse upon delivery due to the glues they used. A IfA you want something permanent, I'd suggest you consider double-epoxy or Liquid Nails - particularly double-epoxy. However, major cracks and dents need to be repaired with a cement-sand mix or by applying plaster of paris. A If you see any gaps between the popsicle stick and the helmet, fill the gaps with LocTite Liquid Metal paste. A Just let it dry fully, and then apply a second coat which should completely cover the helmet. A Your final coat should effectively cover any of the residual yellow between your kill stripes.
A When those dried, I finished my work with the smaller scratches on the dome of the helmet. However, it should be noted that the accumulation of "run" time is, in one way or another, thermostatically controlled. A Let it sit for about 20-30 minutes and use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth the paste out, and re-test the area with a popsicle stick.
A Patience will certainly save you time and effort in the long run with this sort of project. A I left this to set overnight, and revisited it the next day using some chrome paint and a paintbrush to do some minor touch up work around the masking lines. A Let dry for a full 30 minutes before removing the tape.a€?a€?Now, repeat this process for the other areas of yellow between the kill stripes that you couldn't get the first time around. For example, Admiral-type flex-tray machines have a thermostat in line with the icemaker timing and drive motor that opens at 19 degrees, and doesn't close again till the freezer temperature drops to 15 degrees. A If not, then re-apply the LocTite Liquid Metal and repeat the process until you are satisfied. A thermostat pressed against the ice mold senses that it is cold enough to ensure that the ice is frozen. A If you use extra long strips of tape, you will show paint lines on the dome making it obvious that you did repair work. A Due to the extensive supply needed, I purchased some of mine through Hobbylinc, others through Tower Hobbies.
When the harvest mechanism contacts the ice, it stalls until the ice melts enough to release it from the mold. A For a color listing, please look further down this column.A  All paint recommendations are by Rogue Studios of The Dented Helmet. A Please note though that sanding of Loctite Liquid Metal should be done within 25-30 minutes of the initial application. Cubes in the bin might occasionally stick together a little bit because of this liquefication, but they should be easy to separate.In a hard-tray icemaker, the thermostatstartsthe harvest cycle, but it does notendthe cycle. A If you wait longer than 6 hours, it becomes extremely durable and quite difficult to sand down.
The mold heater would open the thermostat and end the cycle way too early; long before the mold was refilled.
When the thermostat begins the harvest cycle, a cam attached to the drive motor closes a "holding" switch.
This switch keeps the drive motor turning until the ice is harvested and the mold refills with water. When the ejection mechanism is reset, the mold is refilled and the cam reaches the proper position, the cam allows the holding switch to open.
This ends the fill cycle and begins the freeze cycle.FILL CYCLE AND FILL VALVETowards the end of the harvest cycle, a cam on the drive mechanism closes the fill switch.
This switch opens a fill solenoid valve, usually located on the back of the fridge, at the bottom. The shape of the cam that closes the fill switch controls the length of time the valve stays open.
A flow control washer within the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure, so that the same amount of water flows through the valve regardless of water pressure.
After a repair, you can't stand there with the freezer door open, waiting for the next harvest cycle, to make sure the machine is working properly. Most icemakers are temperature-sensitive, and as the freezer temperature rises and falls, this sensitivity can cause symptoms to be intermittent.Icemakers can behave erratically, and be difficult to diagnose because of it. But a basic understanding of how a particular design operates can go a long way towards removing the mystery of intermittent malfunctions. Knowing how the icemakershouldoperate may point you towards whatisn'toperating correctly.Has the fridge or freezer seemed warmer or colder than usual? This can point towards refrigerator problems other than the icemaker, such as defrost or sealed system problems.
Any higher, and the ice may not freeze fast enough or the thermostat may not trigger a harvest cycle. Any lower, and the cold may migrate into the refrigerator compartment.Has the freezer or refrigerator door been opened a lot?
In some circumstances, this can keep the freezer temperature too high and cause slow or no ice production, or "shelling," where the cube has not frozen completely before the harvest cycle begins.Do not yet discard any "slabbed" ice. The ice cubes are "shelling," or not freezing completely before the harvest cycle tries to eject them from the mold. See section 8-2(b).D) The fill tube keeps filling with ice and blocking the flow of fill water.
See section 8-4.8-2(a) SLABBINGThis generally occurs when the ice is not ejecting from the ice mold properly. If there are cubes left in the ice mold after a harvest cycle, the new waterfill will overfill the mold for the next batch.
Depending on the design, this may cause the mold to overflow, or it may just cause a thick sheet of ice to fuse together the tops of the cubes too solidly. In this case, the icemaker can jam and the problem can compound itself rapidly.This can be caused by a number of factors.
This can simply prevent the ice from dropping into the bin, (Figure S-1) or it can interfere with the ice level sensor arm, preventing the icemaker from shutting off when the bin is full. Both hard-tray and flex-tray machines are prone to this problem; it is caused by impurities in the fill water. The problem can get so bad that you may see black or gray flakes and sediment in the cubes. In both hard- and flex-tray machines, the solution is usually to replace the ice mold, or just the entire icemaker.
If you do this, rinse the mold with a weak chlorine bleach solution and flush with copious amounts of water before you put the mold back into service.
The next fill will then cause overfill, and slabbing symptoms may develop.Low water pressure can also cause the valve to leak, sometimes badly enough to overfill or overflow the ice mold. See Section 8-2(c), section 8-3 and Figure S-4.8-2(b) SHELLINGHollow cubes, or "shelling" can occur if the ice cubes are not fully frozen when the harvest cycle begins. Depending on the design, either the harvest cycle is being triggered prematurely, or the cube is not freezing in the allotted time.Shelling may be an early sign of defrost, sealed system or other cooling problems of the refrigerator itself, especially in flex-tray machines.
The freezer vents in flex-tray machines must direct cold air directly at the surface of the water or the mold, to insure that it will freeze in the alloted time. Check that nothing is blocking the airstream and that the freezer vent directing air over the icemaker is not damaged, missing or misdirected.In hard-tray machines with shelling symptoms, ice or water left in the mold after harvest may cause overfill and slabbing problems. Shelling is usually a sign of low waterfill, which allows the mold to get colder faster, triggering the thermostat into a harvest cycle too quickly. Check and adjust the water level (sections 8-5 thru 8-8) or check for low water pressure or the incorrect water valve. Over time it will freeze the tube completely shut.To melt the ice from the tube and clear it, you can use a blow dryer, or blow hot water into the tube with a turkey baster. Sediment from improper installation or low water pressure may prevent the valve from closing fully. If you have this symptom, especially if it returns after clearing the ice blockage once, start checking for water supply pressure or sediment problems.


I've seen people tap into hot water pipes, but the piping should be long enough so that water does not fill the icemaker while hot, or the water may not freeze fast enough.
It is far better to use a cold water line if possible."Saddle valves" are often used on a new installation to pierce into an existing pipe, (Figure F-1) and generally work pretty well. However, you must be careful of using dissimilar metals; for example a copper valve on a galvanized steel pipe. A water supply drawn from a saddle valve on a galvanized pipe is an invitation to scale and sediment problems.Similarly, a saddle valve installed too close to a hot water tank can pick up calcium sediments from the tank itself.
Scale and sediments can block the saddle valve and cause low water flow.Low water flow through the saddle valve may cause the same symptoms as low water pressure at the solenoid valve inlet.
They can also get into the solenoid valve seat and prevent the valve from closing fully, causing symptoms from fill tube freeze to slabbing. However, the only long term solution is to secure a better supply, directly from a copper cold-water pipe if possible. It's a little cheaper, easier to cut and install, and less prone to leakage when you have to move the refrigerator. However, some people feel it's more prone to leakage than copper simply because the material is stronger. That's not been my experience, but it's your call.If you do use plastic, make sure you insert the brass sleeves into the ends (Figure F-2) before installing the compression fittings.
Without them, the ends of the plastic could collapse and leak.HOT WATER OR COLD?I've seen people tap into hot water lines to feed the icemaker, but I highly recommendagainstit. But when the temperature of the water drops, the heat flow slows to the same rate as if you had just filled it with cool water in the first place.
Common complaints and contaminants are chlorine, rust, sand, dirt, sediment, dissolved calcium, organic substances such as PCB's, THM's, herbicides and pesticides, chloramines and detergents, causing bad taste, odors or even health hazards. This book is not intended to be a primer on water filtration; I would in no waybegin to try to pretendto be able advise you what contaminants you need to guard against in your area. For that, you need to hire a water chemist, or talk to your water company or neighbors who might have been through this already. These contaminants you can pick up independent of what your water company supplies you, through old or inadequate water piping or other house conditions.
You don't think the pipefitters washed all the bugs and dirt out of the tubing before they brazed it in place, do you?INLINE AND UNDER-SINK (CARTRIDGE) FILTERS(Figures F-3 and F-4)In my opinion, about the only good thing about inline filters (vs. Being behind the fridge instead of under the sink, they are harder to get to, and easier toforgetto change.Cartridge-type filters, on the other hand, have replacable cartridges which are relatively easy to get to and change. Some even have water shutoff valves built right into them to make filter changing even faster and easier.
They are little, if any, more difficult to install initially, and replacement cartridges usually cost less than a new inline filter. When the new membrane is new, probably half of the water that enters the RO system goes down the drain to flush themembrane. If you don't change the elements frequently, then when the membrane gets older and plugged with contaminants, as much as 15 to 20timesas much water goes down the drain as comes out the faucet. Also, water flows through the RO membrane very slowly, so it can drop water pressure at the tap considerably.Most manufacturers recommend AGAINST an icemaker water supply coming from an RO system. I have been personally using an RO system on my Whirlpool crescent cube icemaker for two years now and I am tickled with the results; ice as clear and clean tasting as our drinking water, and no scale or calcium deposits. But if you understand the risks, and the RO system doesn't drop the water pressure too low, it can be done.8-3(b) FILL SOLENOID VALVEWater fill volume is controlled by a couple of things.
For one, the length of time the valve stays open, which is usually controlled by a cam in the icemaker head, which closes a switch for the proper amount of time. Aflow control washerwithin the valve adjusts the flow for variations in house water pressure.
However, if the water pressure is below about 20 psi at the solenoid valve inlet, problems can occur. If the cube is too small, it may not eject properly, and the next fill may cause overfill.Water solenoids operate using a pressure diaphragm with pressure on both sides of the diaphragm.
Different icemakers require a wide variety of fill volumes, from about 3 ounces in certain GE units to as much as 8 ounces in Admiral-type machines.
The valve bodies might look the same from the outside, but you must make sure the valve is the correct one (has the correct flow control washer) for the icemaker you're working on. If someone has previously replaced the solenoid valve, and you experience low flow problems or slabbing in an icemaker, double check that the valve is the correct one. This is acriticallyimportant point.8-3(c) TESTING AND ADJUSTING FILL VOLUMETo test fill volume, remove the icemaker from its freezer wall mounting (but leave it plugged in) and initiate a harvest cycle if possible.
Baby bottles are generally just about the right size for testing fill volume; most are graduated in both cc's and ounces.
A good rule of thumb is that one fluid ounce equals about 30 cc's.Water fill level can be adjusted onsomeicemakers.
See sections 8-5 thru 8-8 about your design.8-4 SLOW OR NO ICE PRODUCTIONThere are a number of things that will slow or stop the production of ice. If you are working on an icemaker where you can do so, a good start is to try to manually trigger a harvest cycle and watch what happens.
However, there a few common causes.8-4(a) FREEZER TEMPERATURECheck the freezer temperature. In most icemakers, a freezer temperature above about 15 degrees may cause icemakers not to harvest or to have other ice production problems. If the freezer temperature is hovering right around the thermostat temperature setting, the icemaker's thermostat may open and close, causing slow or intermittent ice production. If the freezer temperature is not low enough, check the refrigerator's temperature settings.High freezer temperatures may also mean that therefrigeratorhas cooling problems such as defrost or sealed system malfunctions. If adjusting the controls doesn't lower the freezer temperature, see Chapters 4 and 5.8-4(b) POWER SUPPLYCheck that the icemaker is getting power. Unplug it from the freezer wall socket and see if you have power between at least two of the terminals.8-4(c) WATER SUPPLYCheck also that the icemaker is getting water. If possible, unmount the icemaker from the freezer wall and manually initiate a harvest cycle.
The electronic one has a circuit board and an on-off rocker switch on the right side of the icemaker head.Most of the symptoms and the malfunctions between the three designs are similar. However, the internal differences between them are pretty pronounced, so testing and troubleshooting are quite different.8-5(a) MODULAR CRESCENT CUBE DESIGN OPERATIONThe harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized even after the thermostat opens back up.
The motor then stalls, with the ejection fingers applying pressure to the ice, until the mold heats up enough for the cubes to separate from the mold. If the ice level in the bin is too high, or if you raise the arm to the shutoff position, this switch opens and interrupts the thermostat circuit. The icemaker then will not enter a harvest cycle until the sensor arm is allowed to return to its full down position. During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning.
There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the icemaker head; one full turn equals 40cc's.
Some models have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover that attach to this screw.
This screw simply moves the fill switch closer to the cam on the drive shaft, keeping it open longer, or vice-versa. The maximum adjustment on these machines is one full turn in either direction; any more will damage the icemaker head. When adjusting the level, do it gently and do not attempt to force it AT ALL.TROUBLESHOOTINGAside from water supply problems, what usually goes wrong with these machines is that the thermostat (bimetal) fails.
To jump the thermostat and trigger a harvest cycle, just jumper between the T and H test point holes. In this case, you would see the ejection fingers pressed against the ice, trying to eject it, but it would not eject. Under power, test for line voltage between the L and H test point holes; if it is energized, then power is going to the heater.
Unplug and test for resistance between the same test points; the heater should test 72 ohms.
If not, replace the mold.If the drive motor isn't turning at a time when it should be, test for 110 volts between L and M to see if the motor is energized. Some have water level adjustment dials on the right side of the plastic icemaker head cover.The harvest cycle on these icemakers is thermostatically triggered. Very shortly thereafter, a cam on the drive shaft closes the holding switch, keeping the motor circuit energized and turning even after the thermostat opens back up. The fingers then continue pushing the ice out of the mold.The thermostat stays closed throughout the first rotation of the ejection fingers.
Near the completion of the first rotation, another cam attached to the driveshaft closes the fill switch, butwater fill does not occur. The shutoff switch is closed, and offers a lot less resistance than the water valve circuit. Near the completion of the second rotation, the fill switch closes again for about 7-8 seconds, and this time the mold fills with water.
During the harvest cycle, a cam raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch is still closed, which keeps the motor turning. When you remove the plastic cover, you will see the motor gear turning and disengaged from the larger ejection drive gear.
The motor gear can be pressed back on and glued with superglue.Some of these machines have a "chiclet"-type thermal fuse (figure X-8) attached to the underside of the ice mold, near the icemaker head.
If this fuse blows, the icemaker will not harvest, nor will the motor start when you try to manually initiate a harvest cycle. The other two microswitches are the waterfill switch and the holding switch, both cam-operated.
Fortunately, they're pretty much commodity items at this point, and can be replaced for well under a hundred bucks.8-6 GE "BULLET" OR "BARREL" CUBE MACHINESThese machines produce five cylindrical cubes per harvest.
If there is an ice dispenser in the door, you may need to turn down the crescent cube size a little to get the cubes to go through the door properly.OPERATIONThe harvest cycle begins thermostatically at about 16 degrees. An ejection shaft through the bottom of the ice mold is attached to an ejection pad, which pushes the cubes vertically from the mold.
During the harvest cycle, the mechanism raises the sensor arm and opens the shut-off switch, but the holding switch keeps the motor turning. The icemaker will not be producing ice, and you're sure the freezer is cold enough, but manually jumping the thermostat produces a harvest.There are two test connections on the underside of the icemaker head.
In both, a small rectangular plug in the bottom of the icemaker head can be removed to reveal two small holes.
When the harvest cycle is initiated, it takes about eight minutes for the tray to rotate completely around and refill.
Above 19 degrees, it will not produce ice at all.You can tell if the motor is turning by looking at the end of the motor shaft as shown on the illustration. There is an adjustment screw on the right side of the head, but the factory glues it in place during construction.
In fact, the factory doesn't want you messing with these machines at all; if they malfunction, the solution is to replace them. I have had a couple of these icemakers apart and I'd have to agree with the factory in this case. After you replace your old one, try pulling it apart and reassembling it and you'll see what I mean.A conversion kit is available to convert the refrigerator to a crescent-cube design, and I would highly recommend it.
Instructions will be included in the conversion kit.During the harvest cycle in this design, the twisting action of the ice tray ends with a relatively violent SNAP!
Over time this can have several adverse effects.The icemaker can begin to pull its wall mounts out of the freezer wall. Cubes on the high side of the mold may be too small, while cubes on the low side may be too large or even slab together, and fail to eject.The plastic mold (tray) can crack, especially around the hub. If it is, there are a number of things that could be causing the icemaker to stop making cubes, but the solution to all of them seems to be to throw a new gear and pin set in both the front and back of the icemaker head.
Gear alignment instructions are included with the new gears.There is no way to manually initiate a harvest cycle in these machines. When you replace and realign the gears and reinstall the icemaker, it will immediately enter a harvest cycle and fill with water.Time only accumulates on these icemakers when the cold control (the refrigerator's thermostat) is closed and the compressor is running. If the doors remain closed, the ambient air temperature (outside of the fridge) is low, and the compressor doesn't run much, you may experience low ice production. Thus, the icemaker must be plugged in at all times, even if it's not being used to make ice. If you no longer use the icemaker and wish to remove it from your machine, a module is available that replaces the icemaker with a smaller "box" unit that just performs the defrost function.




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Comments

  1. Alisina, 30.04.2015
    Verify-up to make confident he or she is healthful before really is essential.
  2. YuventuS, 30.04.2015
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  3. Admin_088, 30.04.2015
    Signal when it's time to use the potty, as well as manage if he can't.