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At any time that the puppy cannot be supervised, such as throughout the night or when you need to go out, house them in a secure area.
Another consideration in selecting the type of confinement area is how long you may need to leave the dog alone. Every effort should be made to avoid punishment for new puppies as it is generally unnecessary and can lead to avoidance of family members, at a time when bonding and attachment is critical. Chewing, play, exercise, exploration, feeding, social contact and elimination are basic requirements of all puppies. Puppies that are not supervised and rewarded for outdoor elimination, but are constantly being disciplined and punished for indoor elimination, may soon begin to fear to eliminate in all locations in your presence. Generally you will want your dog to have been error free around the house for about a month before you can begin to decrease your confinement and supervision. As you start the house training process it’s important to understand what exactly your new puppy needs and doesn’t need. Current trends in puppy training and puppy house training teach positive methods in house training your new puppy leaving the old training methods of verbal and physical punishment behind in the dust where they belong.
Crate training puppies has long been known to be a great way to accelerate the house training process because puppies don’t like to soil in their den.
Puppies often take up a favorite spot under a desk or table where they can feel safe away from the hustle and bustle of a busy household. Your Dog Training Questions: My Dog Digs, Digs, Digs Your Dog Training Questions: Where Should I Socialize My Puppy? An escape-proof crate, a dog run, or collapsible pen are simple, highly effective, and most important, safe. By preventing problems through confinement or supervision, providing for all of the puppy's needs, and setting up the environment for success, little or no punishment should ever be required. Leaving a remote leash attached is all that is usually needed to prevent or interrupt inappropriate behaviour such as garbage raiding, chewing on household items, house-soiling, or wandering off into rooms or areas that are out of bounds. By providing appropriate outlets for each of these needs, few problems are likely to emerge. This does not mean that the puppy will be able to be trusted to wander throughout the home without eliminating.
Should pre-elimination signs (circling, squatting, sneaking-off, heading to the door) occur, immediately take the dog to their elimination site, give the cue words, and reward the puppy for elimination. Be certain that your puppy has had a chance to eliminate, and has had sufficient play and exercise before any lengthy confinement. These puppies do not associate the punishment with indoor elimination; they associate the punishment with the presence of the owners.
The first time you leave the puppy unsupervised should be just after taking the dog outdoors for elimination. Be consistent with taking your puppy out for much needed potty breaks throughout the day as needed.
However, some new puppy owners think this is cruel and that their puppy will think it’s being punished.
In addition to greatly assisting in the house training process, crating your puppy also helps to protect your stuff from becoming chew toys and it helps to build puppy confidence in being alone.
They will take up refuge there with their back to the wall so they can keep an eye out on all things going on. If a reprimand is needed, a verbal "no" or a loud noise is usually sufficient to distract a puppy so that you can then redirect the puppy to the correct behaviour. If the leash is attached to a head halter you can quickly correct other problems that might arise, such as nipping, play biting, and jumping up. In addition, although some puppies can control themselves through the entire night, most puppies need to eliminate every 3 to 4 hours during the daytime.
If the puppy begins to eliminate indoors, use a verbal reprimand or shake can, and immediately take the puppy outdoors to their proper site, so that they can complete the act. If the area is small enough, such as a pen or crate, many puppies will have sufficient control to keep this area clean.
In fact, it is not the puppy who has erred, it is the owner who has erred by not properly supervising.
Puppies that have been interrupted or reprimanded on one or more occasions as they begin to eliminate indoors, may begin to try to sneak away, whine or show some form of anxiety, when they feel the urge to eliminate, but cannot escape from the owner's sight.


Gradually increase the length of time that your dog is allowed to roam through the home without supervision.
This is particularly helpful with a highly investigative puppy or for a very busy household.
A cage or crate could be used for owners that do not have to leave their puppies confined for longer than 2 or 3 hours.
When supervised, the owner can allow the puppy to investigate and explore their new environment and can direct the puppy to the appropriate chew toys (and away from inappropriate areas). With each passing month, you can expect your puppy to control themselves a little longer between elimination times. If you can pick up on these cues, and take the puppy directly to the outdoors for elimination and reward, the puppy may consistently begin to show these signals when he or she needs to eliminate, and may even begin to take you to the exit door.
If the dog has been able to go unsupervised for a couple of hours without an "accident", it might then be possible to begin going out for short periods of time. While this can seem to be confusing, it’s really not because both terms refer to the same thing: Teaching your new puppy when and where to go to the bathroom. Your undivided attention to where your puppy is and what he’s doing, while in the house will allow you to catch mistakes before they happen.
While our little fluffy domesticated puppies don’t have to worry about predators, the instincts are still there. However, most puppies, especially those obtained before 12 weeks of age, will form attachments almost immediately to the people and any other pets in the new home, provided that there are no unpleasant consequences associated with each new person and experience. Rewarding the puppy for good behaviour such as lying quietly in bed without being asked is also important in preventing problem behaviours. If the area is too large for the puppy to keep clean, or the puppy is left alone too long for them to control themselves, the entire area, except for the puppies bed and feeding spot, should be covered with paper for elimination. I prefer using the term house training because it puts a kinder, softer description to the process – and more importantly, nothing gets broken – there is no breakage. New tasks, new routines, new people and new forms of handling can be associated with rewards to ensure success. The area should have some warm, dry, comfortable bedding, and should never be used for punishment (although it can, and should, be used to prevent problems). A few tasty food treats can also be given the first few times the puppy eliminates in the right spot, and then intermittently thereafter.
For owners that intend to continue to use paper for training, even when home, the puppy should be supervised when released from confinement, and then returned to this area when pre-elimination signs are seen. But in the not too distant past, people house trained their dogs successfully without a crate.
Housing the puppy in isolated areas where there is minimal human contact, such as in a laundry room or basement, should be avoided.
This teaches the puppy the proper place to eliminate, and that elimination in that location is associated with rewards. In fact, often the best area is a kitchen (so that this can also be the dog's feeding area) or a bedroom (so that it becomes the dog's sleeping area).
But in my estimation, not such a good way to house train an animal who will likely be spending his entire life with you. Each time the puppy needs to be confined, it should first be well exercised and given an opportunity to eliminate. Yes, this may be just opinion, but I have house trained all my dogs successfully and they have never been in a crate.
Always go outdoors with your puppy to ensure that it has eliminated and so that rewards can be given immediately upon completion, and not when the dog comes back indoors (too late!). Do some research even to find what kind of dog will fit best in your home and lifestyle; high energy, low energy, loyalty to small children, and so on. Of course if he is a rescue and needs you right away, just be sure you are prepared to make a few sacrifices and to be very understanding.
For those of us who rescue dogs it doesn't feel like a sacrifice, but there are families who are not so prepared to deal with soiled carpets, chewed things, including people, inappropriate barking, and all the other things that can come along with a dog whose needs haven't been met. It is between you and your family to honestly decide if you are willing to embrace a new animal and do what is needed to meet his needs and your own. Make an active effort to have a responsible person around the home for at least a week or two at all times when your puppy first comes to your house.


The more time you can spend with him when he is little ensures that he can be a safe, happy and well adjusted adult dog.
If you notice him circling and sniffing the floor you can be relatively certain he is thinking about going for a pee. Sometimes he will totally forget about peeing and you can let him back inside, but watch him closely and repeat going outside when he starts to sniff and circle. If you take him to the same place outside he will quickly learn from the puddles he has already made that this is a good place to pee. Of course take him outside right after eating if you can; give love and praise for a job well done. Watch the look on his face and the waggle in his tail when you tell him what a good dog he is. He has just lost his mother and his siblings if he had any and now he has to spend the day alone? You could confine him to a puppy safe room and do what you can to paper train him in the same way you would for outside, then move the papers outside as he gets bigger. But he has needs and as a responsible and loving dog companion, you can make the commitment to give him the love and patience he needs when he is little so that you can be assured that you warrant the abundance of love he gives you. A lot of dogs end up in shelters with behavior problems because people failed to educate themselves on the needs of these beautiful animals before they got them. And since it is us humans who are bringing dogs into our homes, it is up to us to teach them responsibly and with respect and love for the wonderful creatures that they are. Now, let's say tomorrow your boss began changing your start time by an hour every day sometimes an hour earlier, sometimes later.
In addition, he would change your lunch hour and you'd never know when the changes would happen till the last minute! She is pretty good using her pad, but lately she is starting to pee and poop on two areas of carpet in the house. I think she hasn't gotten the hang of it to let us know when she has to go potty, like barking or whining to let us know, though sometimes she will lick our hand to tell us, but not all the time.
I'd suggest steam cleaning or shampooing the entire carpet to remove scents that might trigger this behavior. I think one problem might be that it is very cold where we live and currently there is snow on the ground.
She does not poop or pee in her crate when I am at work which is really nice and I praise her for that!
It's not even until 3 months old that most puppies have the ability physically control those bodily functions.
The relief of going to the bathroom and praise from you is a sufficient reward to encourage the behavior you want. That is a problem.Another problem is that he is locked up in a crate at night in a locked room. However, small dogs like pugs are lap dogs and prefer to sleep in bed with people, and be with people pretty much all the time. Besides the fact that the dog may already have abandonment or separation issues from being given away by the original owner.You mention a coworker. This will worsen abandonment issues and make the dog's stress and anxiety so much worse. Anxiety and stress will only make the problem worse.Find a way to get him in your room next to your bed at night.
In his previous home the floors were all tile or hardwood, so we figured he had maybe never been on carpeting and thought it was a place to potty.
He has also peed a few times inside, and he has also peed small amounts in his crate overnight, as well as in the car. In fact, every time he goes in the car he pees a little, or I guess I should say, he leaks, even if we have just watched him pee right before getting into the car. Please it's not so hard, read up on it, take the dog outside on regular times, praise her when she does what she is supposed to do.



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