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GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 2PROBLEMS COMMONTO ALL BRANDSWashing machine designs vary widely, but there are some things that all washers have in common. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 5REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDAND COMPRESSOR IS NOT RUNNING5-1 POWERIf your refrigerator is not cold (or not as cold as usual) and you have determined that the compressor is not running (see the first page of Chapter 4,) first check that the fridge has power. GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 7MAYTAG "NEWTON" MACHINES (for Maytag Performa and Atlantis models,see Chapter 7a)NOTE: Chapter 2 covers problems common to almost all washer designs. THIS chapter covers only diagnosis and repairs peculiar to CERTAIN Maytag-designed machines. This means that all dryers have to have a blower to move air and a heat source to warm the air, and that airflow is very important.
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!5-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe old-style GE design uses a single-speed reversing motor, which is belted to the transmission.
If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!7-1 BASIC OPERATIONThe design uses a reversing motor, which is belted to both the pump and the transmission, using two different belts. If you are looking for good traction and straight-forward tracking, replacing your mower wheels is important.John Deere FiltersThere are several air filters and cleaner kits available for John Deere mowers. It also means that all dryers must have a way to toss the clothes around a bit, because air won't circulate through them if they're just laying there in a big wet lump.
Also check your wall outlet by unplugging the fridge and plugging in a portable appliance such as a blow-dryer or electric shaver.5-2 CONTROLSWhen you have established that power is getting to the fridge, check your controls. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle (Figure GE-1.)A simple centrifugal clutch prevents the motor from taking heavy shock loads when starting.
We recommended changing them on a regular basis to protect and extend lawn equipment engine life.John Deere BeltsJohn Deere offers a wide variety of replacement belts made of strong material to prevent stretching and roll over. They sometimes have a way of getting magically turned off, especially in households with kids. When viewed from the top, the motor turns clockwise for the agitation cycle, and counterclockwise for the spin cycle. This provides smooth engagement and consistent power.John Deere ElectricalFrom battery chargers to ignition switches, spark plugs and more, there are John Deere replacement parts for all of your electrical needs. The transmission converts the rotary motion of the motor to the back-and-forth motion of the agitator. A driveshaft extends from the top of the transmission to the agitator, where it is connected to the agitator, usually by a spline. During agitation, the brake keeps the transmission casing from turning, and the drive pulley turns the transmission shaft. If you hear a "CLICK-BUZZZZZZ-CLICK" (with a buzz of between about 5 and 30 seconds) then you are getting power to the compressor.
During the spin cycle, the brake releases and the whole transmission starts slowly spinning around. Ignitor systems and holding coils on the gas safety valves have varied slightly over the years, but you can find the diagnosis and repair procedures for all gas burners covered by this manual in section 2-3. A temperature control system keeps the air at the optimum temperature for drying and prevents scorching of your clothes.
During agitation, some washers use their pump to circulate water, sucking it from the bottom of the tub and pumping it to the top of the tub. There is less chance of chipping or scratching the finish.2) Inside the lid, on the top right side, is the recirculation nozzle. The pump is driven by the same electric motor. Also during the agitation cycle, bleach or softener may be automatically added.
If you are not getting voltage to the starting components, the cold control or ADC board is bad.
At the end of the spin cycle, the motor stops and the brake brings the basket to a stop. In the late '80's, Maytag redesigned the transmission.
This is usually done by a solenoid valve that allows some of the recirculated water to flush out the bleach or softener dispenser.
Check these components as described in section 5-3(c). If you have a fridge with a mechanical timer and you hear nothing at all, set the cold control on the coldest setting and advance the defrost timer. The result is the "orbital" transmission, which has just a few moving parts and is serviceable in the machine. Finding the thermostats is discussed in the chapter pertaining to your model. There is also a safety system that prevents the heating system from starting at all unless the blower is turning. In some models there is no water circulation involved; the solenoid simply opens a valve or door that lets the dispenser contents drop into the wash water.
The timer tells this solenoid valve when to open. SPIN AND DRAIN CYCLES After agitation comes a drain cycle, sometimes combined with a spin cycle.
The terminating thermostat will open and stop the heater at a certain temperature, so the fridge will not continue to heat up. There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking.
You may not see any water directly, but you will see its tracks leading down the pump body.
Springs attached to the motor mounting plate keep tension on the belts. The pump reverses with the motor, but there is no recirculation. During the spin cycle, the same motor that drove the agitator now drives a spin tubewhich is concentric with the agitator shaft. It's as if it wasn't even plugged in, except that the interior lights will still be on.(See section 4-5(d) and Figure 24 for details on how to advance the timer).
See section 5-4 on pumps. 2) These washers are quite different from others in that the tub is attached to the cabinet, rather than the transmission. Over a period of years, enough can build up enough to allow some of the above symptoms to occur.
Follow the safety precautions described in section 1-4(2).To open the front of the cabinet, remove the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. The airflow system is discussed in section 2-5, except for drum seals, which are discussed in the chapter pertaining to your brand of dryer. In most models, the blower is the last component in the airflow system.
If this does not start the compressor, make sure you leave the timer in the "run" mode for the rest of your diagnosis. It can develop leaks, or even shake loose, causing a MASSIVE leak (during the fill cycle, the water dumps straight onto the floor instead of filling the tub). Highly specialized for design of LV high power busbar trunking (<6300A) in power substations, buildings and industry fascilities. In order to diagnose these machines, you need to keep the lid up far enough to look inside, without tripping the lid switch. If you have a separate timer and temperature control, consider yourself lucky; the combined units are considerably more difficult to diagnose and generally more expensive to replace.
Some brands have a lid lock that prevents you from opening the lid when the basket is spinning.At the end of the spin cycle, or whenever the lid is lifted, most models have a braking arrangement that stops the tub from spinning. Usually such holes will appear around the top of the tub.If you have holes worn in the tub, you can sometimes patch them with an epoxy patch kit, available at your appliance parts dealer. So most repairs stem from just a few common complaints: 1) NOISY OPERATIONA vast majority of these complaints stem from drum supports that have worn out. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer.
It usually sounds like a loud, low-pitched rumbling sound that slowly gets worse over a period of several months or even years. Good luck guys (reply) EdvardJan 06, 2014JIG, did you notice the listed references used for this article? This is a very common complaint in Whirlpool or Kenmore brand dryers about 7 to 15 years old.
See the chapter about your brand for specifics about replacing the drum support rollers.   In some models, notably GE, if a belt breaks, the belt tensioner will touch the drive motor shaft and a loud grinding or clattering noise will result. As of this writing, it is not yet widely available, but ask your dealer or call 800-936-5282. 4) The tub fittings may leak. Most modern washers use dual solenoid valves, which have both hot and cold solenoids in one valve body. If you detect a leak from the tub drain or other tub fitting, remove the basket as described in section 5-6. 5) You may get a calcium or detergent buildup around the fill or recirculation nozzle.
May 23, 2016 Shielding and Grounding Practices for Control Cables in EHV Substations May 20, 2016 Do's and Don'ts When Measuring Insulation Resistance Of A Transformer May 18, 2016 Using digital multimeter for testing the charging system of your car May 16, 2016 SubscriptionLove to read our articles? This can happen in Whirlpool or Kenmore dryers, as well as some other brands, though it is infrequent.
To solve the problem, open the top of ther dryer as described in the Whirlpool section, then remove the plastic vane on the inside of the dryer drum by removing the screws on the outside of the dryer drum that hold it in place. In some models, notably Maytag and Frigidaire machines, things can get by the lint screen (like pencils and pens) and get stuck in the blower wheel. The thermistor's signal goes to the washer's control board (computer,) which opens or closes hot and cold water valves to control the incoming water temperature.When the water in the tub reaches the desired level, the pressure or float switch closes the circuit to the fill valve. TESTING THE COMPRESSOR FOR POWERIf you still hear nothing at all, pull off the lower back panel of the fridge, remove the compressor relay cover.
Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. This is the square-ish plastic or bakelite box attached to the side of the compressor. Test for voltage at the two compressor leads.
Replace it as described in section 5-4. If the machine is not pumping out water because the coupling has come off the pump, check the pump for jamming. Replace as described in section 7-10. With the machine in "spin," look at the pump pulley beneath the machine with a mirror. We publish, we share and we spread the knowledge.You're welcome to read, write and contribute to EEP in any way! See the section about your brand for details about how to get to the blower in your machine.2) NOT DRYING WELL(See also NO HEAT below) Usually this is caused by poor airflow. If it is spinning, but water is not pumping, check for a clog in the hose between the tub and pump.
Feel the dryer vent exhaust (usually outside the house.) If there isn't a strong blast of air coming out, check the lint screen and open up any dryer vent you can get to to check for clogging. COLD CONTROLIf you have a mechanical timer, and you don't have voltage to the compressor, use your alligator jumpers to connect the two wires of the cold control.
Also check any flexible dryer vent for pinching. In some machines, if the drum is not turning, there will be no noise or other external symptoms. A few old washers used a pressure switch mounted on the BOTTOM of the tub; these are known as water weight switches. Therefore, a locked transmission will not stop the motor from turning, but a locked pump will. 1) If NOTHING on the machine works, and it's not even making any noise, check the power supply.
This will give the ADC time to finish any defrost cycle it might be in, and re-enter the cooling cycle.
In others, only the spin cycle is interlocked, and the machine will still fill and agitate with the lid raised. To diagnose, start the machine empty, open the door and look inside quickly, or depress the door switch to see if the drum is turning.
The strainers can get clogged up over time and prevent water flow. Shut off the water valves and remove the hoses. Check as described in section 2-5(a) and tighten or replace as described in section 5-10.3) Often a sock or something has jammed in the pump. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8. To repair, see the chapter about your brand. You may see similar symptoms if the motor has gone bad, except that you probably will not hear the motor turning. If it does start with the load removed, turn the pump and transmission pulleys by hand, in both directions, to see which is locked up.
You will also hear the motor trying to start, then tripping off by the motor overload switch, because it is being stalled by the pump.
See section 2-4(d) about motors. 3) NO HEAT, OR LOW HEAT This can be caused by poor airflow in all dryers, but especially in gas dryers.
If you cannot clean the screen sufficiently, you may need to replace it. In some instances, the screen is non-removable, and you will need to replace the hose or valve.
WIRING AND ELECTRICALIf the test in section 5-3(c) doesn't start the compressor, you're going to have to get a wiring diagram (there may be one pasted to the back of the refrigerator) and start tracing wires with your VOM to figure out where you're losing power. An additional confirmation of this diagnosis is that if you look at the pump coupling while the motor is trying to start, it will be twisted tightly. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above. This can also be caused by a problem with the air heating system within the dryer. Check for dead mice beneath your fridge— sometimes they get under there and start chewing wires. See section 5-4. 4) If the transmission pulley is turning, but either agitate or spin or both are not working, the transmission is bad. Note that the transmission pulley will normally be very stiff when turning it in the clockwise direction, as you look at the bottom of the washer.6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines as described in section 7-11.
Replace as described in section 5-13. If the pump is turning, but the transmission drive pulley is not turning, stop the washer and disconnect power. What's happening is that your compressor is trying to start, but it can't, and the electrical overload is cycling on and off. If the transmission pulley will not turn in one or both directions, the transmission needs to be replaced. See section 7-13.7-4 PUMP AND PUMP BELTRemove the pump belt and check to see if the pump will turn freely by hand. Check the dryer vent and exhaust as described in NOT DRYING WELL above.   2-3 GAS BURNERSTo access the burner assembly, open the gas burner inspection door. It might be that one of your compressor starting components is bad, or that your compressor motor is wearing or worn out. With modern, solid-state starting components such as those pictured in figure 36, you may not hear clicking and buzzing as you do with older machines.
See section 5-13.If the transmission pulley turns fairly easily by hand, but the clutch drum is turning slowly or not at all under motor power, the clutch may be bad. If it is too hot or too cold, or if no water is coming out at all, test for voltage across each solenoid coil of the water valve as shown in figure G-5.
If there is power to the components, but the compressor won't start, either the compressor or starting components are bad.You may be able to test each starting component and replace the bad one.
However, I've found that the quickest and easiest way to diagnose this problem is to replace all three with a solid state "3-in-1" unit, or just replace all the components. Replace the valve. If you're not getting power to the valve, refer to the wiring diagram for your machine (see section 2-6) and trace the source of the interruption.
They aren't that expensive. In the parts houses, "3-in-1" units are also known as "hard start" units. Sometimes it's a broken wire, but more commonly, there will be a problem with the water level switch, timer, lid switch, or temperature switch. They contain circuitry that provides a little extra power to start a hard-starting compressor. First, remove the old starting components.


Usually you will hear the motor buzzing as it tries to start, then dropping out on the overload. Replace the defective switch.If your washer is a late-model digital machine with a fill thermistor, a defective thermistor might be sending the wrong signal to the control board. Check as described in section 5-12. 6) If the washer spins but does not agitate, check the agitator splines. If it is glowing, you will hear another click, the gas valve will open and the flame will kick on. Section 5-5. 7) If you have a two-speed machine and the slow (gentle) speed is not working, the clutch solenoid may not be working.
If your washer has a mercury-tube type lid switch, raising the top of the cabinet may have the same effect on the lid switch as raising the lid.
You will need to jumper the mercury switch to perform any tests when the cabinet top is raised. OVERFILLAs the tub fills, water pressure increases at the bottom of the tub.
If your case is the latter, you will need to get the original equipment replacement relay assembly for your fridge. If your compressor doesn't start with the "3-in-1," the compressor's dead. See section 5-11. If the machine makes a squeaking noise, especially during the spin cycle, the snubbers are probably worn out.
You will hear the overload in the "3-in-1" cycling (CLICK-BUZZZZ-CLICK.) It's time to call a tech for a compressor job, or to think about getting a new fridge. This is especially true if the machine has difficulty balancing during spin, even after you redistribute the clothes. If your refrigerator does start, unplug the refrigerator and wire your "3-in-1" in permanently. Replace the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14.5-4 PUMP AND PUMP COUPLINGA vast majority of GE-built washers use the pump shown in figure GE-4. Before you insert the tube onto the switch, blow into the tube first, to clear it of any water that might have gotten in it. But some people would just seal it up so it couldn't overflow, instead of clearing the drain, as they should. Test as described in section 2-6(e). Maytag motors have a piggyback centrifugal starting switch.
Disconnect the pump coupling at the TOP end, then the remove the three pump mounting screws. Depending on how bad the drain is backing up, the washer might never fill completely; the solenoid valve will just stay open and water will just keep siphoning straight out the drain. Or, if the drain is a little more clogged and the water is flowing more slowly, the washer might fill and start agitating, but stop agitating after a few minutes and fill some more. To make matters worse, the motor wire colors do not always correspond with the colors marked on the switch. Bring the burner assembly to your parts dealer to make sure you get the right coil assembly, and don't forget to bring the model number of the machine.   IGNITOR GLOWS, BUT FLAME DOES NOT START (GAS VALVE DOES NOT OPEN)(PILOTLESS SYSTEMS ONLY) Either the flame sensor is not working properly or the safety solenoid coils are not opening the gas valve.
And since the power to the timer motor is being interrupted, the wash and rinse cycles may seem unusually long. There is a solution, even if you don't want to root out the drain blockage as you should. Whenever removing the motor or switch from the machine, mark which wires came off which of the switch terminals.Draw a picture if you must. Your appliance parts dealer has a drain line vacuum break valve, available for just a few bucks. Make sure you differentiate in your notes between a motor wire and a wiring harness wire of the same color, and where each goes on the switch. If the drive motor does not start, try replacing the starting switch as described in section 2-6(e). Then cut out the little piece of plastic in the center of the hub with a knife; this will expose the top of the agitator shaft. It is an especially common problem in installations where the dryer exhaust runs a long way before venting to the outside.
If the motor STILL doesn't start, replace it. To remove the motor, first remove power from the machine. In all washers, it is used to pump water out of the tub at the end of an agitate or soak cycle. Remove the plastic water shield from the motor, and mark and remove the wires. Remove the drive belts.
Test as described in the section above, "IGNITOR DOESN'T GLOW". Occasionally this problem can be caused by a bad thermostat. There are locking tabs that you must twist to remove the larger agitator from the smaller one. Once the screw is removed, the "handwash" agitator should lift out easily. Remove the four motor baseplate screws and lift the motor and baseplate out of the machine. Installation is the opposite of removal. Others use a solenoid-activated butterfly valve in the pump body to re-direct the waterflow. Make sure you check the box that the new motor comes in for a wiring diagram.7-9 TRANSMISSIONI do not recommend the novice trying to replace a transmission in a Maytag washer, for several reasons.
And by the time you throw in a brake package, stem and seal kit, etc., it is usually just not worth it.
If you need to remove it, it is simply clamped to the transmission top and to a lip on the tub by two big round clamps. If both break, there will be NO tension on the belts and in addition, the motor shaft will probably be hitting the washer baseplate, causing a heck of a racket. The roller tracks can get clogged up with dirt, soap deposits or other obstructions. If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. Lubricate the rollers and tracks with a little wheel bearing grease. Examine the condition of each belt as described in section 2-5(a).
The impeller blades can break off due to junk entering the pump; if this happens, the pump may seize up, or it may just stop pumping.
If the timer dial prevents you from removing the timer, pull off the spring clip from behind the timer knob as shown in figure GE-10. It's unpleasant, but unless exposure is more than a second or so, the only harm it usually does is to tick you off pretty good. If the pump is belt-driven (as it is in many washers) the pulley driving the pump may shear off, or the belt may break. Pump belt tension is explained in section 7-4.7-11 AGITATORMost Maytag washers have an agitator that lifts directly out. The belt may ride over the locked pulley, or the motor pulley will continue turning under the belt; this will burn the belt and possibly break it.
The other design is known as a "clamshell" timer because of the curved shape of its plastic housing. These models have a rubber stop ring around the agitator shaft at the bottom of the splines.
There may even be enough tension on the belt to stop the motor from turning. The symptoms can be confusing.
It's not worth dying for. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something.
For example, a common complaint about a Whirlpool belt-drive washer is that it isn't spinning, accompanied by a strong burning smell. If your timer is defective, take it to your parts dealer and ask for a rebuilt.5-8 LID SWITCHThe lid switch is located beneath the cabinet top, towards the right rear of the washer.
It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section. The washer doesn't enter the spin cycle because the spin is interlocked with the drain cycle.
Test with an ohmmeter and replace if defective.5-9 WATER LEVEL SWITCHThe water level switch is located beneath the console. If you're one of those folks who's a bit timid around electricity, all I can say is read on, and don't be too nervous.
GE washers used several different wiring schemes, so refer to section 2-6(b) and compare with figure GE-11 to determine which terminals to test. You learned how to use a VOM in Chapter 1, right? Each component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. COLD CONTROLIf you have a mechanical timer, and you don't have voltage to the compressor, use your alligator jumpers to connect the two wires of the cold control. If you can't see anything jamming the pump, feel around the inside of the pump inlets and outlets with a pair of needlenose pliers.
If it has no continuity, replace by removing the screw on the underside of the coil. I do not recommend the novice trying to rebuild a two-speed clutch. To service the single-speed clutch, first remove power from the washer and remove the back panel. Depending on how badly the drain is clogged, there may be a little water or a lot, or it may only overflow every second or third load. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires from your timer. For example, in figure G-6, if you want to test the hi-temp selector switch, connect one lead to the M and one to the H terminal.
Even if you're not there when it happens and the paper dries out, it will have crinkled up, and you'll know your drain's backing up. If it isn't the drain, run the machine with a full load. Without moving the machine, get right down on the floor and look under the machine with a flashlight.
Block up the tub so the tub remains in line with the cabinet. Beneath the washer, in the center, is the brake package.
The brake package changes the machine from the spin to the drain cycle and back when the motor reverses. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. It also brakes the spinning basket at the end of the spin cycle or when the lid is lifted. The brake lining is normally lubricated by a few drops of oil. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet back TO the wall outlet. If the lining gets too dry, it can start squeaking at the very end of the spin cycle, when it is braking the basket. If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them.
YOU MAY HURT YOURSELF OPENING IT, AND IT IS IMPRACTICAL FOR YOU TO TRY TO REBUILD IT YOURSELF. BRAKE PACKAGE REMOVALRemove the center screw from the driveshaft.
Sometimes they will be labelled L1 and N, but they are still 110 volt leads. Let's say you need to check out why the heater is not working. Some washer pumps have a hole that allows water to weep out when the seal starts to go bad.
Since a burnt out heater element is the most likely cause of this symptom, first test the heater for continuity.
If the bleach dispenser gets old and brittle, it can crack or break off, and the flush water can leak out.But since the dispenser may only be flushed at certain times in the cycle, this will appear as an intermittent leak. This switch is located inside of the timer (you know this because it is drawn with thick lines) and it must be closed.
As you look at the back of the machine, you will find the relay towards the upper left side of the machine.
This will help you to thread the brake package into the base plate without cross-threading it.
With the tub blocked up, grab the bottom of the transmission casing and move it by hand until you can slip the brake package onto the splines. In this example, we have set the temperature on "low." Note that in this machine, on this setting, the electricity flows through both the high-temp and low-temp operating thermostats. If a consistent imbalance in the basket has caused it to wear a hole in the tub (not an uncommon experience to old-style GE washers) then you may be able to fix it with an epoxy patch.
If you don't, you will be trying to overcome brake pressure to turn the package.Turn the transmission and brake package until the brake package is hand tight in the baseplate. The electricity then flows through the high limit thermostat, so it too must be closed and show good continuity. The electricity flows through the heater, which we have already tested and we know is good. One motor is used to do both.Within the transmission there is typically a crank gear and connecting rod arrangement to provide the reciprocating motion to the agitator. You should now see good continuity. If you do not get the above readings, replace the relay. Then the electricity flows through the centrifugal switch, which must be closed, before going back out the main power cord (L2).   To test for the break in the circuit, simply isolate each part of the system (remove the wires from the terminals) and test for continuity. However, some designs use a differential gear, slider, eccentric, or other design. The spin motion comes directly from the rotary motion of the motor, through some clutch arrangement. For example, to test the thermostats in our example, pull the wires off each thermostat and test continuity across the thermostat terminals as described in section 2-4(c). The Y-DB switch is shown in bold lines, so it is inside the timer. Usually there is some kind of reduction arrangement in the belt or gearing. There must also be some mechanism to change between spin and agitate. Count your blessings and start saving up for a new fridge (or a major repair), just in case.?Copyright 2011 GOFAR Services, LLC.
There are two ways that this is most commonly done. Some washer designs use solenoids to engage and disengage clutches and transmissions.
While holding the transmission so it doesn't turn, run the drive pulley up as tight as you can by hand onto the helical shaft.You will see a drive lug on the pulley that corresponds to the shaft drive lug. However, if you can identify the proper leads, you can use your alligator jumpers to jump across them. For the agitate cycle, a solenoid (sometimes the same one) disengages the clutch and engages the transmission. Slide the transmission towards the right rear of the washer, and reach under the transmission to make sure the drive belt has disengaged from it.
For specific information see the chapter about your brand. Many washer designs use a direct-reversing motor.
You may need to use jumpers to extend or even bypass the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine.
When the motor turns one way, a mechanical arrangement such as a helical shaft, centrifugal clutch or torsion spring engages and spins the basket.
Rebuilt GE transmissions are a standard item at most parts stores, and they are not terribly expensive.
Then turn the pulley gently clockwise until you just barely begin to feel the brake spring pressure.The shaft lug should be at about 9 o'clock from the pulley lug.
When the motor reverses, the brake locks the basket and the transmission engages, so the agitator agitates.The basket braking arrangement is often a part of the clutch arrangement.
If not, adjust the shaft lug on the splines. The idea is to get the pulley to bottom out on the helical drive shaft just as the drive lugs touch.


It will then be up to you to figure out exactly where that break is; there is no magic way. If you see any of the problems shown in figure G-8, replace it. Broken or worn out belts are a common problem. Locate the right rear bolt loosely in its hole, then the left front bolt, then the other four. Install the boot, basket, and agitator.
If it is not correct, you will hear the drive motor bogging down and perhaps tripping on the overload during the agitation cycle.7-14 DAMPER PADSThe damper supports the weight of the water in the tub. See the chapter on your brand for specific details about changing the belt(s) on your model. As a final step, remove the back from the washer and make sure the belt is seated properly.5-14 SNUBBER BLOCKSThere are eight friction pads, commonly known as snubber blocks, which help to prevent vibration during the spin cycle. Mark the position of the nuts on the three eyebolts (Figure M-15) and remove the bottom nuts.
If the shaft is rotating but the agitator is not, replace the agitator or spline insert.2-5(c) TRANSMISSIONSTransmissions in general are pretty bullet-proof, and rarely experience problems beyond a little oil loss.
This will remove spring tension on the tub centering springs.Lean the washer back against the wall at an angle. Place a 4x4 wood block directly underneath the transmission pulley and lower the machine onto the wood block. In addition to telling the motor when to run, it may also activate the heating circuit or heating control circuits, humidity-sensing circuits, etc. Solid state timers are difficult and expensive to diagnose. If you suspect a timer problem in a solid-state system, you can try replacing it, but remember that it's expensive and non-returnable (being an electrical part.) If you have one of these units that's defective, you can check into the cost of replacing it, but it's been my experience that you usually will end up just replacing the whole dryer or calling a technician.
If you do call a technician, make sure you ask up front whether they work on solid-state controls. Most timers are nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. Try turning the motor by hand, or pull the belt so everything rotates. Be careful you don't pinch your fingers between the belt and pulley! Check to see that every pulley that the belt rides is rotating. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your dryer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem. Disengage the drive system (remove the belt, etc.) Try to turn the transmission drive pulley with your hand. Also check the movement of the pump, and any tensioner or idler pulley that may be present. Do not try to rebuild your own transmission. Typically, rebuilding requires special tools that drive the cost above that of buying a rebuilt transmission.
Replace the timer or timer drive motor, or have it rebuilt as described below. Timers can be difficult to diagnose.
Due to some parts business politics, I can't mention brand names in this book, but your parts dealer will probably be happy to privately let you know which ones they are.2-6 TESTING ELECTRICAL COMPONENTSSometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. If none of the other components are bad, then it may be the timer. Remember that a timer is simply a set of on-off switches.
There is a small inspection hole (figure GE-4) in the pump body that weeps water when the pump's internal seal is leaking. Following the shaded circuit in figure G-7, you test the door switch, push-to-start switch and centrifugal switch. The wiring and switches that are shown as thick lines are inside of the timer. The small circles all over the diagram are terminals.
Make sure the timer is in the "on" position and slowly turn the timer all the way through a full cycle. Any wiring enclosed by a shaded or dotted box is internal to a switch assembly and must be tested as described in sections 2-6(c) and 2-6(d). Switches may be numbered on the diagram, but that number will not be found on the switch. Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually several times. It may prove to be a temporary repair, but you can always do it again, and it's cheaper than trashing the washer. If it's a common one, your parts dealer may even have a rebuilt one in stock. For the most part, if your timer is acting up, you need to replace it. Following the gray-shaded circuit in figure G-9(a), the electricity flows through the black wire (L1) to the push-pull switch.
There may be several different thermostats side by side; for example 135 degrees for low temperature, 165 for high temperature, etc. The power then goes through the violet wire to the water level switch (which must have a LOW water level,) then through the pink wire back into the timer. Naturally, it is a bit more expensive than regular thermostats, and difficult to test. You can test a thermostat as described in section 1-4(b) by testing for continuity across its terminals. It then comes out of the timer in a red wire with a white stripe (R-W) that leads to the lid switch (which must be closed.) From the lid switch, it goes through a red wire to the spin solenoid. Finally it leaves the spin solenoid in a white wire, which leads back to the main power cord (L2). If you're not sure whether a certain switch or component is a part of the circuit you're diagnosing, assume that it is and test it. A cold cool-down stat should show no continuity. If a thermostat fails into a closed position, there is a danger that the heating system will continue operating until something catches fire. If you have a motor problem that you think you've traced to the timer, don't bother trying to figure out which switch goes to which part of the motor. Replace it. THERMISTORSA thermistor is a "variable resistor" whose resistance varies with temperature. Looking at the diagram, the push-pull switch controls a lot of other things besides the spin solenoid. Rather than just turning the heating circuit on and off as thermostats do, dryers with solid-state (computer logic board) controls can use a thermistor's input to control the drum temperature more closely. This can result in lower energy usage. Thermistors are tested by measuring resistance across them with a VOM. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch as described in sections 2-6(e) and 7-8. You may need to use jumpers to extend the wire; for example, if one end of the wire is in the control console and the other end in underneath the machine. This is done in one of two ways. When the air in the drum is moist, the water in it absorbs heat to evaporate.
This keeps the air temperature lower, and it takes longer to heat up.   The thermostat on the drum exhaust will keep the heating system on longer.
In these systems, that same thermostat controls the timer motor; while the heating system is on, the timer motor is not running, and vice-versa.
So when the clothes get drier, the exhaust air temperature gets higher more quickly, the heating system doesn't stay on for as long and the timer motor runs more, ending the cycle sooner. The thermostats in these machines have three leads.
So you've just replaced the pump, and you're standing there with the lid open, admiring how well it's pumping out, when you notice it still isn't spinning.
If the symptoms lead you to suspect that yours is defective, just replace it. Besides heating more slowly, moist air also conducts electricity better than dry air. So another way the engineers design a humidity sensor is to put two electrical contacts inside the dryer drum.
For example, if your basket won't spin at all, you will check all the obvious stuff (lid switch, spin clutch solenoid, transmission, etc.) But will you think to check the imbalance switch? The electrical currents conducted by the air are so low that an electronic circuit is needed to sense when the air is moist, but essentially the same thing happens in this system as in the other. When the air is dry, the timer motor runs longer and times out sooner. The sensors in these machines tend to get coated with gummy stuff, especially if you use a lot of fabric softener in the wash or starch in ironing. In some designs, it also prevents the tub from filling or the agitator from agitating while the lid is open. To reset this interlock, the lid must be opened and closed or the timer turned off and back on. The circuit board could have gone bad, too; there is no good way to test it with out a lot of expensive equipment. THEY ARE THERE FOR A REASON.2-6(a) SWITCHES AND SOLENOIDSTesting switches and solenoids is pretty straightforward. The problem is that the heater operates on 220 volts, but the timer motor runs on 110 volts. There is a resistor in the system to cut down the voltage (see figure G-6(a) and if this resistor is bad, you will see the same symptoms as if the thermostat was bad: the timer motor will not run in the automatic cycle. If you have one of these dryers, make sure you test the resistor for continuity, in addition to the thermostat. OTHER TEMPERATURE CONTROLS Selecting which thermostat is used may be done inside the timer, or there may be a separate multi-switch that accomplishes this.
If it shows no resistance, it's shorted.2-6(b) WATER LEVEL SWITCHESWater level diaphragm switches are usually shown on a wiring diagram by the symbol in figure G-10. The numbering or lettering of the terminals may differ, but basically all switches are tested the same way. To test the switch, first fill the tub to the highest water level.
So much, in fact, that if it is allowed to continue being energized in a stalled state, it will start burning wires. To prevent this, an overload switch is installed on motors to cut power to them if they don't start within a certain amount of time. If the motor is trying to start, but can't, you will hear certain things.
In some extreme cases, you may even smell burning. If you hear the motor doing this, but it won't start, disconnect power and take all the load off it. See the chapter about your brand for details about the labelling of the switch leads.2-6(c) TIMERSThe timer is the brain of the washer. In addition to telling the motor when and which way to run, it tells any clutch solenoids when to engage, the fill valve when to open, dispenser solenoids when to open, etc.Most washers still have mechanical, that is, motor-operated timers. Some newer machines have digital timers and control (computer) boards. Diagnosing digital machines is often a matter of reading the digital fault code or performing a self test. If you have an ammeter, the stalled motor will be drawing 10 to 20 amps or more. STARTING SWITCH Dryers have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor.
Testing procedures and fault codes for individual models can usually be found on a paper located inside the console. A mechanical timer is nothing more than a motor that drives a set of cams which open and close switches. There are many sets of contacts inside the switch, and each design is different, even among dryers of the same brand. Yet it is one of the most expensive parts in your washer, so don't be too quick to diagnose it as the problem.
Testing the switch is most easily accomplished by replacing it. Remember that starting switches are electrical parts, which are generally not returnable.
If you test the switch by replacing it, and the problem turns out to be the motor itself, you will probably not be able to return the starting switch for a refund. If you buy one, and it turns out not to be the problem, you've just wasted the money.In a wiring diagram, a mechanical timer may appear in two different ways (Figure G-11).
If it has simply shaken loose and not torn, you can just clamp the old one back in place, but you'd better check the snubber blocks as described in section 5-14 to try to find out why it shook loose in the first place. When buying a new motor, make sure that the pulley can be changed over, or else get a new pulley with the new motor. It may save you a second trip to the parts dealer.   2-4(e) IGNITORSYou can test the ignitor by testing for resistance across the element.
Timer wires are color-coded or number-coded.Let's say you've got a spin solenoid problem that you think you've traced to your timer.
Like ignitors, they should show quite a bit of resistance, and defective heaters will usually show no continuity at all.2-4(g) TERMINAL BLOCKIn most electric dryer installations, there is a 220 volt wall plug.
If the dryer does not seem to be getting power, but you do have power at the wall outlet, you also need to check the terminal block for problems as shown below. Replace it if there is any sign of problems. Make sure all wiring is clear and make sure you don't touch any bare wires or terminals, plug the dryer back in briefly, and check the terminal block for power across all three legs as described in sections 1-4(a) and 2-4.
Then remove power again at the breaker or fuse.2-5 AIRFLOWAirflow is EXTREMELY important in EVERY dryer. Whirlpool Direct Drive models (chapter 4) are this way.You must simply test the timer one click at a time. It can come on suddenly (like if something happens to the dryer vent outside the house) or it can show up as a progressive problem, as lint slowly builds up in the dryer exhaust system.First, check the lint screen.
Be patient!) You should see continuity make and break at least once in the cycle; usually many times. The Whirlpool Direct-Drive models (Chapter 4) are prone to this confusing problem, though it's not too terribly common.
The symptoms are that when you open the lid at the end of the cycle, the tub hasn't drained. I think it's a tribute to Whirlpool engineering that the thing was still running at all with that much lint in it. If the lint screen is clean, check the exhaust system between the dryer and the house outlet. A really easy way is to disconnect the exhaust system and run the dryer for a few minutes with it venting directly into the house. The motor doesn't get a chance to start in the opposite direction, so it continues to run in the same direction (agitate) until something interrupts the circuit and stops the motor. If the dryer functions normally, the exhaust system is clogged. If none of the above works, the internal ducting or blower fan is clogged or malfunctioning.
If you're not sure if the shoes can be re-used, ask your appliance parts dealer, or simply replace them. For example, with the temperature switch shown in figure G-13 set on "Warm wash, Cold rinse" all the switches marked with a "WC" will be closed.
There is no WC marking next to the middle switch, so the switch should be open.You should see no continuity with your VOM. Test the switch similarly for all settings.2-6(e) DRIVE MOTORS, START SWITCH, AND CAPACITORSA motor that is trying to start, but can't for whatever reason, is using one heckuva lot of electricity. For example, disconnect the drive belt, pump drive system, etc. Try to start the motor again. You can discharge it by shorting the two terminals on your capacitor with your screwdriver.
Be careful not to touch the metal part of your screwdriver with your hands while you do this. After discharging the capacitor, disconnect its leads and test it.
Initially, the meter should bounce towards the right of the scale (good continuity), then slowly move back to the left side a bit as the capacitor builds resistance.Reverse the two probes on the terminals. Again, it's a loud grinding sound, as if you were sticking something into a moving blower fan. If you do not get these readings, replace the capacitor. STARTING SWITCH Only GE-built machines have an external, replaceable current-relay starting switch.
See the GE chapter for testing. Most other machines have a centrifugal starting switch mounted piggyback on the motor.



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