Princess bed woodworking plans nightstand,great dane sheds a lot,plans for building adirondack furniture,free gable storage shed plans nz - Good Point

26.01.2016
While I have double checked the accuracy of my figures, I would recommend cutting as you go to verify that your measurements are exact for your project. The dimensions I give you are for a slide that is wide enough for kids and a tight fit for most adults. Not wanting all that space under the slide to go to waste, I cut out underneath to make two closets. Also, for the slide inner edge and the stairs inner edge, there wasn’t as much support as I wanted. Attach other 2×2 inside of the front of the bed, flush with the bottom of the front railing.
I wanted a more finished bottom edge, so I purchased some molding, painted it before installing, then cut using a miter saw and nailed to the bottom of the front of the bed. The upper shelves work great because it keeps things from falling below and my daughter has built in nightstands where she can put her things when she is in bed. This part gets a little tricky, because you can put the sides and back together now, but it is narrow enough it makes it hard to work inside that area. At this point if you want to cut off some extra from the outside of the stairs, I recommend measuring up approx. Since the railing against the wall supports the mattress, I then used bolts to attach the top railing to studs in the wall. So, I bought a couple of L brackets (used to put up shelvings and such) and attached one to each set of railings, with the other end of the L bracket being attached to the under bed slats.
Attach one to the front of the back railing, flush with the bottom using 2” screws and glue. Attach these to the top, outside of the tower, about half (1 ?”) sticking up above the tower.


The sides are connected to the back of the tower fronts, so that the total width of the towers are 11” and 18”.
You can forego this and instead make a tower or the center piece wider, but I liked how this made the front and slide connect better.
Then attach each of the 11 ?” to the sides, also 7 ?” from the top, inset from the back by ?”.
On the outer side of the slide, starting at the front edge of the platform I went down 2 ?”. I drew a line straight down for 23”, then drew a line from this point to the front of the slide and made two straight cuts.
It is wide enough that you can put both sides on first if you want, although it is a little tight to work if you do that. I did this about four times across the bed and it really helped with the support and to keep the railing from being pulled away from the wall. When wood filler is completely dry, sand the project in the direction of the wood grain with 120 grit sandpaper. Connect the middle to the two towers so that the back of the middle is flush with the back of the two towers. The 12 ?” pieces go along the floor, flush with the back of the sides to give added support between the back and the platform support. The 1×2 does not have to go the entire length – I left an inch or so on each end so that I didn’t have to mess with cutting the ends at the right angle.
Then, attach the 1×2 step supports on both sides, at the top and bottom of each step, as shown in the diagram. Again, I drew on the windows with pencil, used a drill in the corners to get started, and cut out with a jigsaw.


You can always get a piece in the section of the box store that sells closeting products if you want just one board, although you may have to adjust the width of the slide accordingly.
If you want to finish this edge off, I used a 1×2 on it’s side to make a sort of railing. Note: Especially on the back, please cut length to exact measurement, as yours may differ slightly! If you do that, I suggest putting a 1×3 24” wide behind it to keep the top from getting broken (I didn’t do this at first and part of it got broken right away). If you want it slower, just drop the same distance down, but make the side a little longer to make the slope a little slower. I just countersinked some screws and screwed the slide directly into the supports underneath. I made mine a little long (57”) because I liked the thought of it hanging off the end a little and wanted to be able to cut some off to make the end of the slide straight up and down.
So, on the front, I might go in from the edge 1 ?”, then start the pattern, ending up with 1 ?” left on the other end. It is always recommended to apply a test coat on a hidden area or scrap piece to ensure color evenness and adhesion.




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