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Just wanted to get all of your opinions, I bought this Dearborn Snow Plow from a real nice older man.
In addition to the rear brackets you will also need two front axle brackets to hold the cables and a pin that crosses your drawbar to lift the plow. If you go over to ntractor board & summon Farmer Dan , he will show you pics of the brackets you need for that set up .
This is a paraphrase of the Wisconsin repair manual discussion of the firing order for the VE4 and VF4 with the engine speed Wico magneto.
The Wico magneto on this model engine has terminals marked on the cap as viewed from the output shaft end of the engine as follows.
Since the Wico magneto on this model engine turns in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE direction and at the same rotational speed as the crankshaft, number 3 cylinder must receive spark at 180 degrees after number 1.
So to recap, ILLOGICAL AS IT MAY SEEM, the sparkplug wire from the numbered terminal on the VE4 Wico magneto goes to the corresponding cylinder. The repair manual stresses that even though the wires may have been switched around in the field because it is so hard to visualize the firing order, given the order of terminals on the cap, it is imperative that the wires be placed on the correct cylinders and magneto terminals to avoid accidental kickbacks and the broken bones they can cause. First, the gear on the magneto driven by the idler gear is the same size as the gear on the crankshaft, which drives the idler gear. Turn the crank until the leading edge of the vane with the DC cast next to it on the flywheel lines up with the vertical mark on the cooling shroud at the top of the opening.
To check this, turn the engine over slowly by hand and listen for the magneto to snap when the “DC” vane on the flywheel lines up with centerline of the 1 and 3 bank of cylinders and then the 2 and 4 centerline of cylinders.
The automatic advance is built into the mechanism of the magneto and occurs progressively from 0 to 27 degrees as the engine increases in speed. I have included a schematic of the sine wave (up-down of the piston over time) for each cylinder in relation to the others as a way to visualize the firing pattern. I just resurrected one I used on an old cordwood saw which had been in storage for 40 years. I had to get a couple of parts from the dealer and was pleasantly surprised when they told me they still had the repair manual for that 1945 engine. I know it may seem pointless to some less whimsically minded people but some of us enjoy making the old things work again.
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There is no evidence anywhere on the bar, blade, or guards suggesting that it has been beaten up with a hammer. The ledger plate is at the bottom of the guard and is made of hard steel that is serrated to make one half of the scissors action of the knife and guard.
First: buy you an owners manual for the mower, it will explain setup and operation procedures. IMHO: the ledger plates (mounted to the guards) is a critical part of the cuting operation. No matter how sharpe the blade sections are, if the ledger plate is worn smooth and rounded on the cutting edge the blade will just pull the grass in and bind up.
I"ll try to remove & sharpen the ledger plates before replacing the rock guard to see if the money saved is worth the trouble. Thanks, that's logical and I'll try adjusting before replacing the guards - guess that would be the next step. The proper way to put in new rivets is to put them DOWNWARD thru the knife and bar and brad the BOTTOM side. The way to adjust the guards is to take an index card, or matchbook, and tap down the guards till there is just enough clearance to pass the card or matchbook between the guard and blade (20 thousandths if you do it with a feeler gauge).

Just for the sake of argument, why do you think old worn out mowers sell for 400 dollars, and the very same mower (almost)(Rowse) costs 5000 dollars?
From your description of what the mower is doing, I suspect that the sickle is not in register so that is one of the things that you should check first. I see some farmers mow perhaps 6 to 8 passes around the oerimeter of a field, and then back snd forth to finish it off. Unless you have a selfpropelled unit or a pulltype that you can swing from the tractor seat while you are turning at each end and cut all the field from same side then the only sencible way is round and round as without that you would be spending a lot of time and fuel wasted to travel across the ends and unless you waited to mow the rest of the field till you had the outside rounds baled they would be ruined from driving on them and even if you did that then you would be doing damage to the crop for later cuttings.
Usually if you try to make that kind of a turn thenyou will have trouble as that makes the cutter bar work twice as hard as straight going and way harder than turning the other way. I know it was rough and had been repaired quite a few times, but I figured how rare these are to find I would go ahead and pick it up.
I was wondering how good I did for the price, the man I got it from said a lot of people looked at it and would not pay what he wanted for it. Number 1 terminal is at the upper right, number 4 upper left, number 3 lower left, and number 2 lower right.
Since terminal number 3 is opposite number 1, it is 180 degrees of rotation away from number 1.
With the crank held in this position fit the magneto so that the “X” marked on the tooth of the magneto drive gear is visible in the lower half of the inspection hole in the housing. At rest, (starting for instance) spark should occur slightly after TDC of the firing cylinder so that kickback does not occur.
I searched on this site and others for a decent magneto timing explanation and was still confused.
They were good enough to make me the copies of the two pages which explained the magneto timing etc. Pretty funny when it fired up and a bunch of fiberglass insulation that the rats had used to make a nest in the muffler shot across the yard like confetti.
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If the sections don't ride tight against the cutting surface of the guard (the ledger plate would be there in the old guards, yours are one piece without a ledger plate), it won't cut. Not so much the bar binds, but nearly, often guards need a bit of shimming to get them all lined up with the sections. Many (maybe all) IH sickle bars have tapered holes and this procedure allows the rivet to expand into that taper, makes for much tighter knife sections.
But do you think the guys that buy those old 400 dollar mowers will go down to the dealer and buy 600 dollars worth of parts to make it function properly? Old timers said picking it up from the cut end did cleaner job & didn't knock off as many leaves. This is all with a mower that only cuts on one side and unless you are a big time operator you usually will not have that hydraswing or selfpropeled unit. Standing facing the flywheel end of the engine, the cylinder closest to you on the left side bank is number 1 and the one behind it is number 3. DO NOT BE DECIEVED, THE ROTATIONAL SEQUENCE OF THE CAP IS NOT THE FIRING ORDER OF THE ENGINE. Therefore, even though number 4 cylinder gets a spark at 90 degrees past number 1 on it’s trip over to number 3, it sparks on number 4’s exhaust stroke so it does no harm. Looking from the rear of the engine at the magneto cap, the rotor turns in a counterclockwise direction. I just could not make sense of the firing order not being the same as the sequence of rotation on the mag.

X items Ilium Bilt lawn tractor straw man dockworker build Home Made Tractors Implements and Accessories. If the bottom surface of the guard isn't square where the section rides on it, it probably won't cut. If you don't know what a ledger plate is, it's like tryin to tune up a car and you don't know what a spark plug is.
When that knife travels the other direction, it is way short of the guard, and can't cut hay. It's the only way to go.Most of these mowers have been badly abused putting up beer can hay. This makes 12 windrows which get raked into 2 windrows in 4 passes by the rake which takes 3 swaths at a time.
Baling the same, pick it up from the end of stem at bottom, top end just rode along into baler.
It has everything but the back fender brackets, I know these can go for a little money when you can find them.
I sure wish I had that trip spring assembly for my plow .I'll probably never find those parts . The cylinder closest to you on the right hand bank is number 2 and the one behind it is number 4. Another thing to realize is that the right bank, 2 and 4 are 90 degrees out of phase with 1 and 3.
It does not matter which cylinders are on the compression stroke because when the magneto is properly timed, it fires every ? revolution of the crank and the correct plug gets fire at the correct time. Rule of thumb is smooth sections on serrated ledgers, and serrated sections (under) on smooth guards. Cutting round & round eliminated driving on the cut end rows so much, & no wasted time driving dead across the end. Or angstrom mower deck of cards you stool scarcely push We think the Saame way you doand that’s why we build them this way. The two windrows get picked up by the tractor chopper dumpwagon which needs a lot of room to turn around on the ends.
Does anyone know how to find the back brackets, worst comes to worst I guess I could make some. The engine is a 4 cycle so the entire 4 cycles power, exhaust, intake and compression require 2 revolutions of the crankshaft.
Garden tractor loader from O’Reilly manufacture is an incredible lawn and garden Move dirt seed rocks logs and so much Ssee video in action. Old timers would scream at you if you drove over any more standing crop than absolutely necessary by layingout lands. Baled the X first, that left a gap between side & end windrows for easy turns, even pulling a rack behind baler. Rarely dropped a bale while turning, rack would follow chute going down the next row before bale came out. Cut the backswath next to fence last, usually poorer stand there, so didn't hurt much driving over it. Same as moldboard plowing, 10 rounds was a comfortable split, no matter the size of the machine.

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