Wood finishing basics,free garage plans with workshop,garage shelving gladiator names - .

22.06.2015
Without some kind of finish to protect it from the elements, wood can become as dry and lifeless as day-old toast.
It's a kind of super-tough varnish formulated so that its microscopic chains of resin molecules will bond tightly with one another as it dries.
Restrictions on VOC emissions have spurred the development of alternatives to oil-based polys. Most exterior polys can be used indoors, but interior polys should never be used outdoors; they lack the additives that protect exterior finishes from UV rays. Spray-on polys come in handy on hard-to-reach surfaces, such as shutter louvers and chair spindles.
To keep a partially filled can of oil-based poly from skinning over, cover the finish with this amount of mineral spirits. Each polyurethane is unique, thanks to tweaks in its chemical makeup; choose the one that best matches your particular project. GOOD FOR: Cabinets, floors, furniture, and trim such as wainscot, where abrasion resistance and durability are important. Use natural bristle for oil-based finishes and synthetic filament (polyester, nylon, or a blend of the two) for water-based and water-based oil-modified finishes. Your brush will be easier to clean, and will go longer between cleanings, if its bristles are dipped first in mineral spirits, if you're using an oil-based poly, or in water, if the finish is water-based. Working from a separate container prevents the dust and other particles picked up by the brush from contaminating the finish in the can. After dipping about one-third of the brush into the finish, gently slap it against the inside of the container. Wipe the wood with a damp cloth to raise the fibers; after the surface dries, knock them back with 220-grit sandpaper. What type of finish should you put on (or have Trestlewood put on) your antique wood mantel? Trestlewood makes no representations or warranties whatsoever relative to the accuracy of information included in or referenced by any Trestlewood blog post, whether that information is posted by Trestlewood or others. Wood finishing expert Bruce Johnson shares basic wood staining tips and offers advice on how to stain some of the more popular wood species. While wood in its natural state can provide breathtaking beauty, it doesn't always match the other colours or wood tones in our home. Since wood is a product of nature, it can vary from tree to tree, even in the same wood species.
Give you a longer working time, enabling you to stain floors, cabinets, paneling and doors without the worry of dried lap marks. Are applied with a natural bristle brush, while water-based products must be applied with a synthetic brush.
This thick-bodied stain is ideal for vertical application and works on both wood and non-wood surfaces. Sand bare or stripped wood lightly with #150, #180 or #220-grit sandpaper to open the pores in preparation for staining. Pay attention to how long you leave the stain on the wood before wiping off any unabsorbed liquid.
Remove the last of any unabsorbed stain with a dry cloth wiped only in the direction of the grain of the wood.
When staining vertical surfaces, such as unfinished paneling or doors, try Minwax® Gel Stain. All woods have two characteristics that play important roles in determining their final appearance: their natural colour and the size of their pores.


In addition to their natural colour, each species of wood has unique properties that will also affect the staining results. Always a popular hardwood, oak has a strong grain pattern and large, open pores that absorb stain readily. These two hardwoods have become the darlings of the unfinished furniture industry, for they are lightweight, affordable and easy to machine.
These hardwoods share many of the characteristics of oak and should be stained in the same manner described above for oak. Less expensive than hard maple, birch is often substituted for maple in furniture and kitchen cabinets.
These South American hardwoods are noted for their dark, rich colours and their high levels of natural oils. As its name implies, hard maple is an extremely dense, tight-pored wood that does not absorb much stain. These three popular softwoods are beautiful when finished naturally or with only a light application of stain. Always prepare the wood with a light sanding and an application of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (see Wood Preparation for other tips).
Stir the can thoroughly to evenly redistribute any colour pigments which may have settled to the bottom. Attempt to obtain a darker colour by allowing any unabsorbed stain to dry on top of the wood, as this will later peel off.
We recommend Tredsafe® brand finishing trims as an attractive edge capping and expansion joint for floating timber floors. Coating wood cabinetry, furniture, or trim with a clear finish, whether you stain it or not, gives it richness and depth while protecting it from knocks, scrapes, and the weather. The result is a finish that's much more resistant to water, solvents, abrasion, and impacts than traditional varnishes. Appears cloudy in the can but dries to a tough, amber-colour film, like an oil-based finish. Just remember that the glossier the finish, the more it will show any underlying imperfections and any future wear and tear.
Aerosol sprays require good technique to avoid drips, and extra prep time to protect surfaces from overspray.
Combines the durability and ambering of an oil with the fast drying time, low VOC content, and easy cleanup of a water-based product. Do this before and during application to evenly blend the ingredients that control sheen and UV resistance.
Thinning doesn't improve adhesion, and you'll have to apply more coats and use more solvent. Before using the brush, rapidly roll the handle between your hands inside a cardboard box to eliminate excess. Scraping the bristles over the edge of a container leaves the brush too dry to apply a coat of the right thickness.
If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly. For the best results, select a pre-stain wood conditioner, stain and finish with the same solvent. Applying stain over a finished surface, such as lacquered kitchen cabinets, will not change the colour of the wood. On woods with large, open pores, such as oak, mahogany and ash, increase your pressure to work the stain into the pores.


Swirl marks left by a stain-saturated cloth will become even more obvious under a coat of clear finish. Its thicker consistency enables it to cling to vertical surfaces without immediately running, giving you more time to apply an even coat of stain. Once the stain has dried, apply a clear finish to protect both the stain and the wood — and to make the final results look even more beautiful.
Unlike paint, both water-based and oil-based stains are absorbed into the wood rather than laying on top of it. Like hard maple, however, it does not absorb stain evenly and should not be stained with dark coloured stains. Unlike oak and ash, cherry has a subtle grain pattern and small pores which do not absorb as much stain, making it difficult to make any significant changes in its natural colour.
Unlike oak and ash, the grain pattern of maple is uneven, causing it to absorb stains in varying degrees.
Problems arise, however, under darker stains, for all three absorb stain unevenly, especially around knots and blemishes. The solvent in the finish will activate the damp stain, allowing your brush or cloth to pull it out of the pores of the wood. Use this guide to learn more about choosing and using polyurethane, the toughest of the clear coatings. Made with a special blend of oils and resins that allows it to flex as the wood surface expands and contracts. Use a cloth dampened with mineral spirits on oil-based finishes; use a water-dampened cloth on water-based finishes. Rubbing or brushing against the direction of the grain will help fill deep pores with stain.
For that reason, the natural wood colour will blend with the colour of the stain you choose. To help reduce blotchiness when staining, first apply a liberal coat of a pre-stain wood conditioner. When staining, first apply a pre-stain wood conditioner, then select stains lighter in colour. Always apply a liberal coat of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner prior to staining and even then select light to medium colours. Then you can be sure you're using just the right finish to bring out the beauty of wood around your house. Never allow any excess stain to dry on wood surface—it will cause all sorts of adhesion and other issues. In order to accurately predict the final colour of your project, always test any stain you select on an inconspicuous place on the wood first.
To insure that any stain penetrates and fills oak's deep pores, apply a liberal amount of stain to the wood, then work it into the pores using a cloth in a swirling motion. Afterwards remove any unabsorbed stain by rubbing a clean cloth in the direction of the grain of the board.
Usually lower in VOCs than oil-based finishes but still requires good ventilation during application. Applying a straight tung oil, linseed oil or polyurethane can be a good (and simple) approach.



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