Building a model railway fiddle yard plans,ho gauge railroad layouts neopets,train collectors north carolina - .

admin 17.11.2014

One reason that I love these small layouts (I seem to be building about one per year) is that they provide me with an opportunity to try new ideas and refine old ones. The buildings are scratchbuilt using a variety of materials, principally card & plasticard.
The Uckfield Model Railway Club Limited is a company limited by guarantee in England and Wales, No. The track plan is basically as Kirkcubright station with an extra loop for shunting in the yard. On the left, with the original layout with a shed over the platform at the station buildings and on the right, later on after the platform shed roof had been removed. This project is a single track tunnel entrance designed to fit in the corner of a layout with the track running behind the back scene to a ‘fiddle yard’. First I use a type of insulation foam which is used to insulate houses, the off cut’s are ideal to make models.
Having obtained a readymade resin tunnel portal used on this project, I marked out on the foam the tunnel and carefully began to carve the foam.
On many occasions I do not use a portal but carve my own into the foam, this model I decided to paint a resin postal to use. The tunnel portal can be then glued onto the foam by using a strong contact adhesive bought from the Poundland shop in the town centre. With short static grass, the static effect of making the grass stand up is not very effective.
And for those of us not as talented as Martin, don’t forget my favourite resource where there is lots more stuff like this.
Mmm looks ok but a couple of points to mention, you forgot to add that I paint the models with a grey water based emulsion paint. Wonderful effect Martin,foam is such a good core material for model railroads,thank you for the detailed explanation. A few people asking for some more pictures, Al did already kindly show some pictures of items that I made. By the way just a bit of advice for anyone wishing to try the foam modelling – DO NOT USE expanded poystyrene for this type of modelling, it is the pink type. I totally agree with Bob when he said that a lot of pics showing the actual, and not paragraphs, makes it a whole lot better when you try to build or model something!
Secondly I have a number of locomotives belonging to my adult sons that have jamming piston rods and slip of plastic guides , and others with twisted and or missing valve gear. Brilliant work, well done, The photo’s are clear and easy to follow too as is the explanation, Well done !!.
I have made my hills and mountains in the past using hydrocal and newspaper, which can be a messy process. Martin: I, too, would like to know why not to use the pink foam as that is the only type I can find in CA.

Martin, I want to thank you for this information, I’m going to put this in my files for later use, this will be very helpful. I have since occupied my retirement days in creating models and offer them to other modellers at small model rail exhibitions in the north of England UK. I felt most trade stalls were very expensive for many model rail pensioners, so I only cover my costs to help other benefit, I enjoy meeting people. Ii was having trouble finding foam thicker then 1″, until I when to the roofing company across the street from my work, and asked where to buy it.
Excellent tips I was wondering how to build a lifelike tunnel as the shop ones are so damned expensive.
A friend forwards your output to me which is always interesting, so I thought you might care to see a few shots of Diano Marina in HO. I’ve put in over 500 sessions on the layout to date so probably a thousand hours, but then I take forever to get anything much done. Weathering – the building was painted white, stippled with 2 shades of blue and a tan color. Thank you all, and Colin, if you know Diano I expect you’ll know that the Bar Eden is in the bottom of that huge pink L-shaped block of flats in the fourth pic, next to the level crossing, and Mario insisted on giving us a free beer each when we showed him some pics of the model, what a nice guy!
Thomas, the overhead only covers the scenic side (doing the fiddle yard as well would have been a nightmare) so it’s cosmetic, but the pans do run under the wires, I found I could just raise the last section each end at a gentle angle so it rises above the maximum elevation of the pantographs, and they run down under it happily enough.
Some times if you take a step back, you will see that there are some things were easier to do the old way , rather than over thinking of how to do it a more complicated new way.
I produce many different models usually which have some form or rock face, but not all are landscaped the same although I do tend to put plenty of grasses & many bushes on my models. This is a matter of taste and I vary my models by the use of a variety of types of grasses & bushes. On this model I have chosen to first apply an olive coloured grass onto the rock embankment. Very inspiring, and something to look forward to in the coming winter months when we can`t get outside to try other tasks in our incredibly fulfilling hobby. And when carving the rocks, do not just cut pieces out, prise pieces off and it will look more natural.
The foam I am using though is the foam from an old couch and chair that I found sitting out for the garbageman to take.
However in Aldi yesterday I noticed bags of crushed granite I think.Anyway not too expensive , a fair sized bag which could be shared ,and glued under track as a very realistic ballast. My husband and I are beginning at ages 76 and 77, and are very excited to get going on the scenery. This is an excellent idea giving the modeler plenty of time to work the foam to satisfaction. I tried that once but found I had to soak it in Elmers glue then let it sit to dry in order to shape it and have it stand stiff.

Quite often the damage is simply caused by kids picking models up by the gear and bending it in, compare one side with the other to identify any parts that may have been damaged or pushed out of shape. Martin as a tunnel builder you are great but why build a tunnel , I once read an article and one reason for having a tunnel was so that trains could be held there and it would allow a belief that it was on a longer trip than could otherwise be explained, this stopped me in my tracks why would anyone want to hide there most expensive purchase!! It really looks great and what color did you use on the second wash, it looks like a silver or white wash. However, why did your railway engineers aim the track straight for the high ground when realistically the track alignment should be to the left where only a shallow cutting would be required? The track plan is simple – just a platform loop and a goods loop off the single main line, but there are ten roads in the fiddle yard to offer some variety.
Diano being a busy seaside resort does spend a bit on keeping things tidy, but I promise you there is some grafitti on odd walls and the old goods shed. Thanks Martin, and everybody else who contributes, especially Alistair for his untiring efforts. That is what I plan to use for my base, as it is less likely to melt under the glue and paint, and is great to carve.
Collecting track and rolling stock and finally retirement hit and I now have a decated room for my hobby.
I agree on the knife, it is great to use but you need to be careful and do not let the knife lay around if you got kids or grand kids there. Control is ordinary DC with control panels mountable outside for home use or inside for exhibiting. The yellow sign on the side of the building was sanded on the back side to get it very thin and see through, glued it to the building using a very watered down white glue. I am taking pictures as I go along and I am looking forward to posting themk here and on the other model sites I am on. You tell us not to use the pink foam, but in your pictures, the foam is pink, or is it my computer? If you can find some foam from a mattress company or similiar foam, then buy a blender at the local Salvation Army or DAV store or at a yard sale and cut it up with the blender, it makes great scenery bushes etc.
I thought the top of the table could be hinged to allow for access and the controls could be mounted so that they fold under the table when not in use and would come up to at least table height (or higher) when in use. I would have about a foot of depth under the glass to work with for landscaping (a small “mountain” so I could have a tunnel for example) Ever seen anything like this??

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