Dcc train location tracking,model railway shops new york,nyc subway 7 train weekend 2014 - PDF Books

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Product FeaturesTwo-way wireless infrared operation Constant digital information updates of handset command to locomotive, and of locomotive performance back to handset Joystick control for locomotive selection and speed Programming on the main 9,999 locomotive addresses Supports 14, 28 or 128 speed steps Full CV programming Turnout and accessory control Easy-to-use backlit LCD screen Control of up to 40 locomotives at any one time (up to 21 functions per locomotive) Allows 40 consists of up to five locomotives each Universally compatible track connection Expandable modular design Four AA batteries included Suitable for all layouts, from trainsets to sophisticated railroads 2.
For discussion of the issues faced when building a model or layout - how to replicate wood, what glues to use, exactly how much weathering can a Gnat take, a good source of detailing accessories - you get the picture, I'm sure. I'll try to describe my DCC conversion in words first, and try to take pictures and post them later. On top of the motor is a circuit board that clips onto the electrical contacts on the side of the motor.
A second wire runs from the solder contact in the centre to the light bulb holder at the front. Now that we've thoroughly wrecked any chances of the loco ever working again , it's time to prepare the decoder installation. Start by drilling out the little circular depression on top of the retaining clip for the motor. A DCC decoder has two wires (typically red and black) to the wheels, and two more wire (typically orange and gray) to the motor.
Solder the orange and gray wires from the decoder to the opposite ends of the circuit board that will go on top of the motor. Now reposition the circuit board on top of the motor, and clamp this down onto the chassis again, with the modified retaining clip.
You should now be able to test the loco and decoder with a suitable DCC control system of your choice. There was a little snag in my case (bad contact inside the chassis), but if you don't disassemble the drive train, you shouldn't encounter that problem. I'll leave it up to you to decide where to put the decoder, and to decide whether to connect the light bulb to one of the function outputs. The usual disclaimer applies: this is how I did the DCC conversion (roughly), and it works in my case.
Here are some pictures to (hopefully) illustrate my description of converting a Magic Train Lolo diesel loco to DCC. The DCC decoder PCB (the green electronic thingy) fits nicely inside the little compartment behind the head lights.
On the left the unmodified original clip, on the right the clip with the additional hole (you can see the contact through the hole).
You can see the black wire disappearing towards the right to where the blue and red were previously attached (solder tag just visible, next to the ballast weight). On the far left you can see the cut down transparent plastic lens inserts for the head lights, with a white LED glued in front of the top centre head lamp. When I test fitted a new decoder for the second loco, I found that decoder dimensions are critical if, like me, you want to put the decoder in the head light compartment at the front. So carefully consider decoder length before buying, and don't forget to calculate a mm or so extra for the wires.
DCC decoders intended for N scale will easily fit (typical size only 13 x 10 mm), but I'm not sure whether such decoders are powerful enough.

I've mounted it in the small space between the ballast weight and the motor retaining clip. The decoder has overload protection (according to the manufacturer), so if the decoder rating is insufficient for Lolo, I'll probably find out when the decoder stops working (before any permanent damage is done). On this second DCC conversion, I have left the light bulb for the head lamps in place, and connected it to one of the function outputs (white wire). All in all, I think I would recommend using an N scale decoder for Lolo, as it is so much easier to fit than a H0 scale decoder. When I removed the motor from my Magic Train Lolo during the DCC conversion, I noticed that the bottom bearing had come loose from the motor housing, and had dropped down onto the worm gear. So if you suspect bad running, maybe it's a good idea to unhook the motor retaining clip (push down on one side to unhook) and pull out the motor to inspect the bottom bearing. Whether this happened to my Lolo because of my own doing, or whether this can occur in any Lolo, brand new out of the box, I don't know.
Product DescriptionThis is the N Scale DCC Baltimore & Ohio (Blue, Gray & Black) E7B Diesel Locomotive by Bachmann.
Manufacturer CommentsDue to small parts that could cause a choking hazard please kee away from children 3 years of age and younger. Bachmann is ranked #1 in ho scale model train steam locomotives, followed by Model Power, Broadway Limited Imports, Mantua by Model Power, and 6 other manufacturers.
3 am power supply Conforms to all applicable NMRA standard One year warranty Detailed instructions. Then remove the retaining clip that holds the motor in place (push down and unhook on one side). Remove the circuit board from the motor, and cut the single wire that connects it to a solder contact on top of the chassis. You should make a hole that is large enough to prevent any electrical contact to the little rivet beneath (on the circuit board), when the whole thing is reassembled.
One wire goes to where the original blue wire is attached, the other wire goes to the opposite narrow end of the board.
One wire goes to the solder contact in the centre of the chassis (where the original blue and red wire are attached), the other needs to be connected to the chassis somehow. If you want to first test with the motor running freely, then postpone the clamping down bit until later.
I find it easier to at least connect a LED (with appropriate series resistor of course) or light bulb to one of the function outputs of the decoder first. I replaced the light bulb with an LED (with series resistor) and installed the decoder in the front compartment in the body (where the light bulb used to be).
The one on the left is the DCC conversion, the one on the right an unmodified original Lolo. As you can see, the modified clip now has a hole on the right (as in the original) and a hole on the left (newly added). The orange wire disappears to the far side of the circuit board, the gray wire goes to the near side.

The compartment is less than 25 mm wide, and my new decoder (at 25 x 15.4 mm according to the manufacturer) is just a fraction too long to fit. The motor typically doesn't draw more than 200 to 250 mA (as a quick measurement indicated), which is within the maximum rating for most N scale decoders, but that current might increase when you're pulling a heavy train.
Works fine, and is probably easier than fitting a new LED there (as I did on my first DCC conversion).
Formerly a separate municipality, its administration devolved to the newly created City of Johannesburg Metropolitan Municipality, along with neighbouring Sandton and Roodepoort, in the late 1990s. Make sure you solder this second wire to the trace in the middle of the narrow edge, not to the trace along the long edge of the board (if you do, you'll probably create a nice short circuit for the decoder, not recommended).
I soldered it to the bottom part of the light bulb bracket (which is screwed onto the metal chassis), but you could probably also use the screw that fixes the large metal weight inside the body to the chassis, as this screw also connects to the chassis.
If I can switch that light on and off, I know that the decoder works (and I've selected the correct address), even if for some reason the motor doesn't run. The red wire goes to the remaining bit of the light bulb holder, which is screwed onto the chassis (screw head just visible). I've put a piece of insulation tape on the motor retaining clip opposite the decoder, so that if the adhesive tape ever fails, I don't get an immediate short circuit that might destroy the decoder. There is no need to use the blue wire in this case, as the return current passes through the chassis (to which the bottom of the light bulb holder is screwed). I don't know whether this has a noticeable influence on how Lolo runs, but it can't be good.
During the transitional period of 1996-2000, Randburg was part of the Northern Metropolitan Local Council (MLC).[2] Randburg was founded as a town in 1959, as the amalgamation of 32 suburbs, northwest of Johannesburg. You might try to clamp the wire underneath the screw (or find a more durable way of connecting it there). It could also have been soldered to the retaining clip (probably the easier solution, because the screw down in the chassis is very hard to get at).
Although economically linked to Johannesburg, residents chose to create their own town council.
You could also solder the wire to the retaining clip that holds down the motor, as this clips onto to the chassis. The area was declared as a white area during the Apartheid era, but post-apartheid has attracted a varied population. Some larger areas include: A number of Johannesburg suburbs including Parkhurst, Emmarentia, Linden, Northcliff, and Greenside[7] although erroneously included by Google Maps[8] as part of Randburg have never been part of the area[6] Multichoice and its associated companies, M-Net and SuperSport, have their head offices in Randburg. Strijdom park has a substantial auto sales and repair industry and has several other small industries that service the whole of northern Johannesburg. Randburg has faced competition from Sandton which is normally the preferred location for businesses but offers lower rentals and property prices whilst providing easy transportation to the west and central Johannesburg.

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