Garden railway wiring diagrams,public transportation directions boston ma,new york subway fare evasion - Easy Way

admin 21.03.2015

This article details a method used to add a Phoenix Sound P8 to a Battery Powered and Radio Controlled USA Trains GP-9. Twelve wires are fastened under the 7 screw terminals on the Plug and Play Board: 2 for the battery switch, 4 for the motors, and 6 for the LED lights. The Super Socket is easy to assemble and the terminal blocks on the ends provide an individual screw terminal for each of the wires. The article is long because it detailed and includes lots of pictures, but if you take your time and follow it step-by-step it is not difficult, and the results are well worthwhile.
Place the locomotive upside down in a soft engine cradle taking care not to damage the horns.
Slip the rear axle of the long hood motor block from its remaining side frame, and flip the motor block towards the center of the locomotive as shown. Remove the 4 screws outlined in yellow from the fuel tank area, and place them in the small container with the others.
Slip the front axle of the short hood motor block from its remaining side frame, and flip the motor block towards the center of the locomotive. To remove the all 4 screws indicated with the yellow arrows that hold the battery boxes to the frame, the fuel tank will have to be lifted. Remove the linking button connector from the header on the back of the Revolution receiver. Fasten two, 8-position, screw terminal blocks, or any combination of terminal blocks that will cover all 16 traces, to each end of the component (green) side of the perf board with super glue.
The terminal blocks are manufactured by Phoenix Contact and are available from Mouser Electronics under the manufacturer’s part number 1725711 for the 8-position version. The Revolution receiver uses only 4 of its 12 front pins to receive power, control the motors, and activate the lights.
By removing the unused terminals from the center of the IC sockets used to mount the receiver, the center four pins of the receiver can be isolated. Remove the 8 inside terminals from a 24 pin IC socket and 20 pin IC socket as shown in the diagram above, by pushing up a bit at a time on the pins with needle-nosed pliers. Fasten the IC sockets to the component side of the perf board with super glue as shown in the following diagram. Flip the perf board over and solder the pins of the IC sockets and terminal blocks to the board. Modern Aristo-Craft, Plug and Play locomotives have self-resetting polyfuses to protect their electronics. In trace 3 of the component side of the perf board, insert the leads of a polyfuse in the holes of columns 5 and 7. In trace 14 of the component side of the perf board, insert the leads of a polyfuse in the holes of columns 5 and 7. Traces 3 and 14 on the Super Socket will be powered by the lithium-ion battery through wires from the battery switch.
Cut and bend another jumper to fit in the holes of traces 13 and 14 on the component side of the perf board.
The Phoenix Sound P8 has a circuit that measures the voltage of the motors and generates the appropriate engine sounds as the diesel changes speed. Cut and bend another jumper that to fit in the holes of traces 10 and 12 on the component side of the perf board.
Ordinarily the volume on a Phoenix Sound board is raised and lowered using a momentary switch. The circuit uses a 1K resistor and a 2N3906 or equivalent transistor which will be soldered in traces 15 and 16 of the Super Socket. These leggings will set the transistor at the right height above the perf board for soldering and ensure they do not touch the center lead (base) when it is bent to fit. With the round side of the transistor facing the terminal block, trial fit the two outside leads (collector and emitter) in column 5 on the component side of the perf board.
Flip the perf board over, flux and solder the three leads of the transistor to the perf board, and trim them.
Bend the leads of a 1K ohm resistor so they will fit in the holes of columns 8 and 12 on the component side of the perf board. Place the Super Socket evenly between the two large holes in the components platform with the polyfuses facing the battery. Pass the long hood motor wires through the hole in the components platform nearest the battery. The short hood motor wires should already pass through the hole in the components platform to the right of the Super Socket, and should be the proper length. Plug the Revolution receiver into the Super Socket, ensuring all the pins are engaged properly. The Revolution receiver has an Auxiliary Control Harness connector with 6 trigger wires, and a black ground wire. The Phoenix Sound P8 board will be fastened on styrene strips in between the battery and the hole in the center of the components platform as shown. Cut the 2 green wires to a length that will easily reach the screw terminals on the left side of the Super Socket. Place the two brown wires with the small white connector through the hole in the center of the components platform and the frame. Cut the gray and orange wires to a length that will easily reach the screw terminals on the left side of the Super Socket. This in the maximum number of sound functions the Revolution Train Engineer can presently trigger. The P8 programming jack will be mounted in the wall of the fuel tank with the battery switch and linking button.
Secure the Phoenix Sound speaker to the bottom of the fuel tank with hot glue, sealing the cracks between the edges of the speaker and the raised portion of the grill.
Put the nut for the programming jack in the Ziploc bag and hot glue the jack to the back of the fuel tank wall.
Pass the wires for the programming jack through the holes in the center of the frame and the components platform. Plug the programming jack connector into the 4-pin header (C3) on the bottom edge of the P8 sound board. Remove the 10 screws from the shell and the 4 shorter screws from the battery boxes, and place them in a small container for now.
On the right hand side of the Super Socket, fasten the black ground wire for the headlights labeled HD2 under the screw 6, and the black ground wire for the headlights labeled HD1 under the screw terminal 11.
On the right hand side of the Super Socket, fasten the red wire for the long hood lights under screw terminal 3, and the red wire for the short hood lights under screw terminal 4. On the right hand side of the Super Socket, fasten the black ground wire for the short hood number board lights under screw terminal 13, and the black ground wire for the long hood number board lights under screw terminal 14.
Remove 2 side frames from one side of the locomotive, and place the 6 screws in the small container so they do not get lost. Fasten the 4 screws that hold the battery boxes to the frame back in the holes indicated with the yellow arrows. Fasten the fuel tank back on the frame with its 2 screws ensuring that none of the wires get pinched. OVGRS Society Info The Ottawa Valley Garden Railroad Society is located in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. Instead we update our web site with articles and photos, and then post a news flash about the recent additions on this Home and News Page. NEW MEMBER ACCOUNT ACTIVATION E-MAIL:If you have recently registered on the forum and have not yet received a confirmation email containing your activation link, may I first suggest that you check your email SPAM folder.
If you would like to participate in the forum by publishing details of your own Garden Railway then you are welcome to start your own thread and submit details to this board.


After the paint had dried I decided to have a go at painting the track with some brown acrilic paint.
Well big changes at the heatherburn took place yesterday as I decided that it was about time I got all the hard landscaping done. Took a few pics of the area in question just wish I glued it all down last night as now I have to wait for the goo to dry.
Before I begin, I must add that even though it works, the way I have done it may not be the best way of doing it and there are other ways. Like you say, there are variations on the basics, but if I was starting out now I'd have found something like that really useful.Hopefully others will add more good information over time. Also I've seen several panels using perspex for the top with the trackplan painted on or using lining tape. The problem with the 3D 'rats nest' wiring approach is that although it might appear to make wire tracing a bit easier for fault finding, you run the risk of causing further damage by rummaging around amongst it all whilst doing so. If the instructions from the previous article were followed, the components and wiring should look like the following pictures. Adding the P8 sound board and Revolution receiver trigger wires however, adds an additional 16 wires for a total of 28.
Additional components such as a transistor, resistor, and polyfuses are also mounted on the circuit board.
Although a GP-9 was used for this installation, the instructions could be used as a guide to install a Phoenix Sound P8 in most Aristo-Craft or USA Trains, non Plug and Play, 4-axle diesels.
A small, flat screwdriver can be used to gently pry the stanchion tabs from their holes in the frame if necessary. Remove 2 side frames from one side of the locomotive, and place the 6 screws in a small container so they do not get lost.
Remove the 2 screws outlined in yellow and place them in the small container with the others. Place a label on each of the black headlight ground wires: HD1 for the rear headlights, and HD2 for the front headlights.
Fasten the 4 shorter screws back in the battery boxes and the 10 longer screws back in the shell so they do not get lost or mixed up with others. Score both sides of the perf board and snap off a piece 16 traces down by 35 columns across.
The pins of the blocks should be in columns 2 and 34, and the openings for the wires should face out. The 2 two pins on each edge are for power, the third pins in from each edge are for the motors, and fourth pins in are for the front and rear headlight grounds.
Now the screw terminals and their connected traces then can be used to install wires between the P8 sound board and Revolution receiver.
These IC sockets are available from Mouser Electronics under the manufacturer’s part numbers 1-390261-8 and 1-390261-6 respectively. The same polyfuses will be added to provide protection for the battery, receiver, sound board, and LED lights. But traces 4 and 13 must also be linked to battery switch to provide power to the receiver, P8 sound board, and LED lights. Cut and bend a jumper to fit between the holes of traces 3 and 4 on the component side of the perf board.
In order to link the P8 wires and motor wires fastened to the Super Socket, jumpers must be installed.
Cut and bend a jumper to fit in the holes of traces 5 and 7 on the component side of the perf board. But hiding the switch so it does not alter the appearance of the locomotive usually means that it cannot be accessed while operating. The resistor and transistor can be purchased from All Electronics under catalog numbers 293-1K and 2N3906 respectively. If you place the transistor flat side down with the leads to the bottom, the leads from left to right are the collector, base and emitter. The yellow (or black) lead (collector) should be in trace 15 and the red (emitter) in trace 16. Move the socket back and forth across the platform scoring it slightly with the bottom of the terminal block pins.
On the left side of the Super Socket, fasten the red wire from the battery switch under screw terminal 3, and the black wire under terminal 14. On the left hand side of the Super Socket, fasten the red wire under screw terminal 5, and the black wire under screw terminal 12. Strip enough insulation off the ends of the 6 shortened wires to allow them to be fastened in the screw terminals on the Super Socket, and tin them.
With connector C1 facing the battery, place the sound board on top of the two styrene strips mounted on the components platform. Strip enough insulation off the wires to allow them to be fastened under the screw terminals.
Fasten the fuel tank back on with the 2 screws in the small container taking care not to pinch any wires. Carefully place the locomotive upside down in a soft cradle taking care not to damage the horns.
Fasten the 2 remaining longest screws back in holes outlined in yellow in the short hood motor block area. You have successfully added a Phoenix Sound P8 to a USA Trains GP-9 with on-board: battery power, radio control, and LED lights. Construction was simple enough and when I have perfected them I will proberly do a little tutorial.
Last night I fitted the relays for switching the power to the parcels depot, albert dock branch and the up main line.
Then connect the switches to the bus uising blue wire connectors.m8internet wrote:That is an awful lot of terminal blocks Why not keep them together in sets of three, thus keeping the wires togetherWell as I said, this was my of doing it, if you want to do it with less terminal blocks, so be it!
On a control panel as in the earlier post, I'd have thought that a multi connector is a much better and neater solution, I'm assuming that he's used terminal blocks to make the panel removable, if thats not the case and its permanent then soldered joints are better than blocks or connectors! Far better to plan out where the wires have to go beforehand on a wiring list, including where multiple commoned ends have to join. Not only does it look wonderful, it is also operated to a proper timetable and represents a fictional section of the Ratischebahn in the 1930s.If you haven't been to see this stunning model, which is by far the finest garden railway I have yet seen, do try to get along for a visit.
Assuming it's an entirely private railway (not club owned), I haven't seen anything which would better that.I'm a big garden railway fan, and often help my father with his G scale collection. That is far too many wires for just 7 screw terminals, and would result in a confusing spaghetti bowl of wiring.
The transistor and resistor allow the Revolution throttle to raise and lower the sound volume, making the toggle switch supplied by Phoenix Sound redundant. OVGRS members can purchase all the electronic components required to assemble the Super Socket by contacting Paul Norton. Folding a piece of vinyl tape over the end of the screwdriver may prevent the paint from being scratched. The pins of the Revolution receiver should line up with the outer row of terminals on each socket. The pins and traces must be properly fluxed and heated, before the solder is added and allowed to flow.
The polyfuses are available from Mouser Electronics under the manufacturer’s part number 30R250UU. Fortunately Phoenix Sound has designed a small circuit that allows the volume to be raised and lowered using two keys on the Revolution Train Engineer throttle. Slip the cut piece over the left lead (collector) and push it flush against the bottom of the transistor.


Slip the cut piece over the right lead (emitter) and push it flush against the bottom of the transistor. Bend the bottom of the center lead (base) until it fits in column 7 of trace 16 to the right of the transistor as shown in the following diagram. Fasten one of the longer pieces on its side to the edge of the platform opposite the battery connector. The components on the bottom of the sound board should sit in between the strips, while the P8 circuit board should sit on top of the inside edges. In the Assign Functions menu check to ensure that Function 2 (key aBc2) for the bell is set to “latched”.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the bottom of the fuel tank to the frame and place them in the small container.
The animation could be better but I can live with it as it's my first go and it was a nightmare to fit with the music. Then you can put in facilities to deal with such cases, such as commoning tag strips.Screw terminal blocks have their place in the overall scheme of things, but for me, mid-air wiring is not one of them If you must use them, avoid the urge to tin the ends of your exposed wires, other than perhaps just sufficient to stop the strands splaying.
I'm not sure how it can be compared to the pictures I put up of a fully scenic line run to a time table. To keep the wires organized, the Plug and Play Board will be replaced with a Super Socket to hold the receiver and interface with the sound board. Fasten the bottom of the leggings to the perf board with a bit of super glue to hold the transistor in place.
Carefully align the socket evenly between the holes and the sides of the platform and press it into the hot glue. These wires will measure the voltage across the motor wires and adjust the sound accordingly. Screw terminals are intended to deform wire strands as they are tightened, and tinning the entire end prevents this from happening properly, making for a brittle joint.Here is one I prepared earlier (about 15 years ago - frightening thought ). I then added some new arrows in diffrent directions and added new numbers so that they were all diffrent.
This stops your points burning out if you keep the switch held down and also helps fire a big burst of power if you are switching more than one point.Green, Red and Black Wire, the amount depends on the size of your layout and where your panel is in relation to the points.
And not a terminal block in sight!It is perhaps more complicated than the average panel because it includes both manual controls and computer interfacing circuitry. These had one leg removed and then glued next to the point with the remaining leg positioned over the tie bar.
Just a shame that when printed the numbers were in a diffrent place that they were on the screen! Once dug out the rear beds were built up using soil (frozen clay!!) from the excavated lawn.
The plan is to replace the lawn with a patio area so that when we have visitors over we can sit out and have a BBQ whilst watching the trains roll by.
After cutting up some plasticard and drilling a couple of holes in I managed to make a working signal but I couldn't get the look quite right.
Most people won’t have access to a laser cutter, but other alternatives are available, e.g.
So I right clicked the image from Chris's signal thread imported it into some photo software, shrunk it and printed. You could draw your track plan or use tape or print it onto card and stick it on; at this stage you can do whatever! I then added some more cable ducts made from matchsticks and ran some scrap cable from the ducts to the point motors. Once I have the size sorted I can laminate them then stick them onto plasticard then drill out for the fiber optics.
Once I had glued the fibers to the signal then passed them through the baseboard I tested them with a torch.
Just as well this side is not normaly visable as the brickpapers used were actualy scalescenes misprints that came out the wrong colour! The images below show my control panel before the sides have been taken off.Next, you will need to drill your holes, as shown above.
I have also repositioned the paving slab behind the station so that I have someware to mount the waterproof box housing the bits to operate the level crossing. My switches needed 6mm holes, do a test drill outside of your plan just to check your switches fit it ok.Your switches will then need to be screwed in, make sure you turn the underside of the switch round, so you have the switch flicking up and down or left and right or whatever you like. For this I have been using fine fish tank gravel that is sold in big bags for not a lot of pennies and at the end of the day us modelers paint over the stuff anyway! So next I opened the holes out and fitted extra fibers ( 3 per lamp) and drilled the baseboard at an angle. I liked to number my switches and points, which created an order to in which to precede e.g.
This was part to a set that also contained a dropper that I got from a local morisons for 99p. When the fibers came away in my hane it occured to me that the glue had melted through the plastic fibers. So the last soloution was to glue the signal head in place then pass the fibers through and secure them under the baseboard with some duck tape.
When I started my control panel, I was dreadful at soldering, but after a few switches I was perfect! Here’s one of my better ones when I started:Ok, so you have soldered your first few wires or maybe all of them if you were quick. As it would not be possible to shove all the black wire ends into the CDU output, it is done by having a wire leading from your CDU to the choc block on the end of the wire on your first switch, a wire leading from your first switch to your second, another wire then from your second to your third, therefore you have two wires leading out of each choc block, except your last switch.
Last night I made one of those 'exectuive decisions' and decided to bin the two thirty year old hornby controlers and instead use my gaugemaster panel mount that got 'nicked' off my N gauge layout.
BUT with the black wire coming from your POINT MOTOR needs to go back to the CDU, not the switch.
Once again it would be silly to try and shove all the black wire into the CDU, so do a similar process to the black wires earlier. This switches the power for the section of track between the crossovers giving me someware to stable locos during shunting moves.
Have one wire from the CDU output (DC+)leading to two wires, one to the point and the other a short wire leading to the next two connections and so on.You can either keep going with the rest of the wiring now or you can give your first wired up point motor a test.
The relay switches power to both rails ensuring that I get no short circuits between the controlers.
Before you can, take your power supply and cut of the end that doesn’t go into the wall, revealing two wires a positive and a negative. Strip half a centimetre of the plastic of each wire, and place into the CDU like shown, with the white wire on the right of the AC inputs and the other in the left AC input. As I said earlier, for the outputs: (DC-) for the wire going to the switch, and (DC+) for the wire to the point motor.
Does any of your soldering or bare wires on your switch touch each other?Sometimes, my points occasionally stop, but this is usually because a wire might have been accidently tugged causing a bad connection, so undo the offending connection and redo it.Hope you understand this and nothing has been left out. The scenic section that I have been working on fits to the left just out of shot whilst the traffic lights are located just off the bridge.



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  • undergraund, 21.03.2015 at 22:45:23
    From SEM and a kit for a QR buffer quit from?Queensland Scale Models.
  • Laguna, 21.03.2015 at 10:42:42
    More g scale train stuff and whatever else will match without clamming.
  • Genie_in_a_bottle, 21.03.2015 at 15:32:50
    Toy pattern series about closer look you will notice wheels.
  • OXOTNIK, 21.03.2015 at 10:45:38
    Not only is this exhibit a new feature for post-war and modern but for a lengthy term train.