Lighting for model railroad buildings,trains to new york from maryland,thomas train set toy r us 2014,locomotives ho pas cher - Review

admin 01.08.2014

Alright, how exactly do people manage to get so many flourescent light fixtures so closely spaced on a ceiling or under the valence and wire so many safely?
Lighting choices are holding up my design and progress, as I cannot figure out how to better illuminate my layout space safely.
For wiring connections, I just pulled a single set of the 3 wires thru all the channels, then used 3M suitcase connectors (use the right size !!), to attach the 18 gauge leads from each unit to the 14 or 12 gauge buss wires I pulled. The lower level will definitely utilize LED strips as these throw the best looking light for the money. One of your main problems is with the loss of light and in the top photo you are lighting up the floor above.
Tom, the light on the ceiling is coming from the sections of strip that are hanging down from the sides of my temporary install.
Ken, when I do the math I simply don't have sufficient circuit capacity to run the number of tubes needed. It does seem tough to be able to judge how things are working at this points since the actual reflectivity of the layout has yet to be established, but the mockup does look a bit dark.
If the LED light strips are truly 120 degrees of illumination, that means they're probably 60 degrees each side of the face. The way you have them mounted, it looks like most of that 60 degrees to the front of the bar is illuminating the floor and being wasted.

You should mount the bar at a 45 degree angle toward the wall, which should pull in the other half of the light (okay, 85% of it, at least) back onto the layout. This assumes, of course, that the bar's 120 degrees is equal both directions forward and backward from the bar, thus with each half being 60 degrees from the lit bar face.
Joe, angling the strip didn't make more illumination (the tin foil is responsible for all of the increase) but it did make a nice light blue to dark blue fade on the backdrop.
One type has an angle of around 170 degree light projection and the other is where the LED has a smaller degree of projection and if you look closely you will see that the construction of the LED will be a moulded white block with the LED not protruding out past the edge of the block at all. Although the type I use have the more extreme angle I mount them onto a piece of 45 degree 1 inch timber moulding which is just perfect. Good luck and get ready to get plenty of compliments from visitors about the fantastic even lighting. Add up the amperage of the units, it should not exceed the circuit breaker amperage rating in the main panel box. When I was deciding what lights to use, I was concerned about the safety of wiring up my own lights and connecting them to my valance, or having any wiring connections on the valance that were homemade. The LEDs on the strip that is wire-tied to the MDF on the valance are pointing straight down.
With so much layout to light up they are the only viable method from a cost of use standpoint as you mention.

The strip is mounted 2" up inside the valence so very little light seems to be lost past the bench to the floor.
One is a spot on a fireplace, but the other 3 just don't cut it for lighting a layout space, even for construction. Spec sheet says the strips have a 120 degree light spread with the majority of concentration within 45 degrees either side of center. I am going to try a variety of positions and reflectors to see if I can improve the performance.
I have already put double breakers in the bottom 5 slots so my panel is maxed out at 40 circuits. My 34 inch lights use 24 watts, the instructions said you can link up to ten fixtures together.

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