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admin 15.07.2015

Along with the resin cast parts, the kit also includes a Tichy Train Group’s brake set (#3013), decals suitable for all possible Rock Island versions of these cars, as well as an assortment of brass wire, preformed grab irons, and more. Before continuing, it is a good idea to give all the parts a light washing with a dilute solution of soap and water to remove any mold-release agents.
The nature of stock cars with all those open spaces between the slats presents a situation not common on other types of freight cars. There is a separate bag in the kit containing all the preformed wire grabs among other things. Note that all the grabs for the car are straight except for the bottom right-side grab located just under the ladder, which is a “drop” type. The instructions call for the modeler to use “…tiny amounts of contact cement” to place details, like ladders and roofwalks, and so forth… and continue, “When dry, set with ACC…” Instead, I chose to use Pacer’s Formula 560 Canopy Glue for these parts; it has a remarkable adhesive quality while remaining flexible when it has set up. The holes for the grabs are pre-located on the castings, which makes drilling them out a breeze.
With the sides and ends completed out to the grabs, I began to assemble the walls of the car by attaching one end to each side with super glue using a jig to ensure these were aligned at a right angle and along the bottom edge. You will notice some of these supports have pre-located holes for the air line plumbing, these are the ones referred to in the instructions that should be installed first with the air lines added before continuing with the rest of the supports.
The remainder of this section is pretty straightforward, including adding the brake hardware, tank, and piston — as much detail as you care to add. The door tracks with L-shaped casting, including rivet detail on one side, need to be notched where the bearings ride.
Understanding this section requires a definition of “door guide.” For the purposes of this model, the door guide refers to the wire rod along which the door chain slides. Westerfield has produced this car in an earlier version with a built-up roof structure and a later version that contains a pre-formed roof beam casting.
The remainder of the weathering included Tamaya white liberally applied to the sides and ends to fade the red paint and blend the alcohol streaks.
It has been pointed out to me that the modeler who chooses to build a resin kit probably already has some experience with basic kit assembly procedures. There are a lot of parts in this Westerfield HO scale stock car kit, and it is important to know not only where they go, but what they are and which end is up or down. There are no trucks and no couplers included, which allows the hobbyist to provide their favorites. Rather than trying to sand the entire side down to near nothing or scooping out every one with a hobby knife, risking disaster at every stroke, I found it useful to employ one of those little pencil-type wire brushes to deal with the time-consuming task of removing all the flash in those hard-to-reach spaces. The instructions were quite thorough, and the provided step-by-step assembly photos proved invaluable.
As always, I like to treat my metal parts to a bath in Blacken-It or some comparable weathering solution. For my model, I elected to install the wire grabs before painting and the heavier profile ladders after painting to avoid shadow blocking the paint in these areas. Just spread a thin coat evenly, maneuver the part into place, and then leave it alone for a while — take a break.

I inserted the grabs, applied super glue from the back, and made sure they were positioned correctly using a strip of styrene as a spacer under each rung.
All the little underbody supports angles and channels are on the same large sheet of flash with many other parts. Stock cars were often whitewashed on the inside to facilitate cleaning and presumably provide a bright, cheerful atmosphere for the livestock on their way to our tables.
I scraped at the finished paint with my wire pencil brush, attempting as random an appearance as possible, being careful not to ruin the decals. I weathered this car a little differently than usual by applying Tamaya Weathering Master B Set’s rust (#87080) on the roof panels and along the edges of the metal ribs along the sides and ends of the car first.
The ends, trucks, and roof were further weathered by applying Tamaya’s Soot, from Weather Master B Set, and Oil found in Weather Master D Set (#87088). 1: Never toss out any little scrap of apparently useless flash — it may actually turn out to be or contain some otherwise unrecognizable detail that you will regret losing before finishing your model.
3: Super glue can be dangerous when handled improperly, even when handled properly, in fact, I would advise against getting your hands on it at all. There is a ridiculous amount of detail, and it’s easy to miss nuts and rivets and mistake tops for bottoms.
After sanding the back until resin dust was oozing through the top, I then placed the part face down and went after the flash with my wire brush. These must be separated from the dozen or so super-fragile castings like ladders and door rails, as well as some items that will serve a crucial function later on in the assembly process.
To be sure, the modeler could just glue these doors to the car and move on; however, it’s all the little chains and bars that make these Westerfield kits a pleasure to look at, so it makes sense to take a moment to figure out how all these fit together. As with all these tiny parts, use the lightest touch to accomplish any modifications or be prepared to cobble up a new part.
Beneath the bottom door and mounted to the car side itself is a wire door guide allowing the full length of the doors to travel from closed to open; a chain attaches each lower corner of the door to the door guide. This treatment was applied to the sides and running boards only — I assume the ends would be more faded and dirty than actually chipped and beaten. I’m glad to see Westerfield continuing to provide models of often overlooked prototypes and cars from eras not typically presented in major commercial model production.
The instructions are clear on this, but it bears repeating since a piece stuck to your finger or elbow or otherwise wrongly attached to something foreign infringes on both Rules #1 and #2. The manufacturer provides the majority of these parts left as they came out of the mold attached to a paper-thin sheet of resin.
The recommended method of removing this flash is to sand the back side of the part until the flash virtually falls off.
To be sure, this is an easy and quick solution that probably also by default adds a wood grain to the interior surfaces. There is a lot of “left end” and “right end” thrown about, while not being clear whether the end of the sides or the actual ends or ends of ends are being referred to, so read ahead a few steps and be sure you are reasonably safe and certain before you proceed. With this one step done in this method, you don’t have to worry about slopping super glue on your paint job.

I just used the old X-acto knife, trimmed as close as I felt it was safe to do, and used a small file to clean up the rest. If these get messed up, a suitable replacement can surely be fabricated from strip styrene.
The doors are assembled on the bench with the chain attached and manipulated into place on the car — a three-handed job to be sure!
It is only necessary to score the outer roof casting, fold, and glue it to the peaked casting. I masked the interior and sprayed the exterior walls with Tru-Color Paint’s Rock Island Freight Car Red (#197). Once the alcohol dries, it leaves a faded residue as water might; adding the rust to the mix serves to highlight the final effect on metals. It would be a good idea to leave them as they are until you need them and adhere to my Rules of Resin for the reasoning behind this directive. These underframe parts are a minefield, so be careful and examine them carefully, so you really understand what you’re dealing with to avoid damage. The interior car floor was also painted white, masked, and then the exterior underframe was painted black using a rattle can of Tamaya’s flat black. Using the same brush, I applied alcohol to mimic the effects of runoff from the roof and interior floors using a light upward stroke to give the liquid a streaked appearance. If you can figure that out, it really does net some nicely detailed parts with ultrathin profiles. A suggestion may be to take these written instructions to your local photocopy store to have them enlarged since the type is very tiny. The brake hardware was brushed with a light coat of Tamaya weathering system Gun Metal (#TS-38).
The resulting mix of the rust with the dried alcohol was just the look I was hoping to achieve.
This is really effective at bringing out the highlights and imparting a metallic quality to hardware anywhere.
At this point, I added the brake shaft and relief line to the B-end of the car along with the model’s trucks and couplers. If it fits too loose, the sides may bow inward, and any excess outward pressure on the sides from the floor or roof may cause the wall sections to bow or separate. With the sides, floor, and roof painted, I glued the three substructures together using canopy glue. Lastly, I installed the running boards also using canopy glue to allow some time for positioning correctly.

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