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admin 08.01.2014

SynopsisExpanded and updated, this text offers insights into the world of train collecting.
That was kind of detail this for really some time but I’d leave toy train price guide this thought with you here. Their matter is actually a practice is one of the most ordinarily has this will stick with you. In a nutshell here it is: Lionel Train Price Guide Online This is the normal stuff edition. This is the price (excluding shipping and handling fees) this seller has provided at which the seller has sold the same item, or one that is virtually identical to it, in the recent past. This item will be shipped through the Global Shipping Program and includes international tracking. Will usually ship within 1 business day of receiving cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. Brand New: A new, unread, unused book in perfect condition with no missing or damaged pages. By submitting your bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder.
By clicking Confirm, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. By clicking Confirm, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. Your bid is the same as or more than the Buy It Now price.You can save time and money by buying it now. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder.
You're not alone: Tyco's reputation was irreparably destroyed by the finicky locos they sold from the mid-70's onward. In the mid-1970's Tyco began using a new motor; originally exclusive to the Alco 430 and 630, it was gradually phased into the entire line (including steam locomotives) by the late 70's. Despite these faults, the reality is that "millions" were made and it's likely that millions ran admirable service lives, even through today.
The following procedures can be used in any Tyco “PowerTorque” diesel locomotive manufactured from 1974 through the early 1990’s. If you're new to model trains, please review this entire Repair Guide before performing any work.
Also note: I have made every effort to illustrate, simplify, and provide caution as much as possible, but make no warranty to the usefulness or suitability of this PowerTorque Service and Rebuilding Guide - use it at your own risk. Labelle #108 or "sewing machine" (plastic compatible) oil - DO NOT use 3-N-1 or "household" oil as it is too thick! The rear truck is connected via wire to the motor as shown: note the two poles on the motor, identified by pair of brass terminal plates.
Both the motor and pickup trucks are installed into black cradles which snap into the body shell.
On models marked “easy” it's, um, easy to remove the cradle and truck block as one assembly. Once the rear truck is free, unscrew the attached electric pickup feed wire, put the screw back in the truck for safekeeping and set the truck aside. With the rear truck out of the way, you now have room to dig in and spread the sides of the shell apart to remove the fuel tank without breaking anything. Generally, there's just enough slack in the clip wire to carefully set the truck down outside and next to the shell. Now with the motor truck loose and all wire tethers to the shell disconnected, you can set the shell aside. First, remove any obvious debris: Hair, carpet fibers, chunks of old grease, white powdery zinc rot, metal shavings, etc - this stuff obviously shouldn't be there, and might be 90% of the problem in the first place! Adjust the speed on the transformer to test the full range: a good motor spins up quickly and responds smoothly. If it's smooth, silly-fast, and responsive, you're ready to reassemble and enjoy your loco - skip to the Gear Reassembly section!
If it's slow, buzzy, or dead, you've got more work to do - continue to Armature Service below, or consider making a dummy.


When everything is cleaned and the armature spins smoothly, you're ready to put it all back together! Note: if you did not need to service the armature, skip to the Gears and Wheels subsection below. IMPORTANT NOTE: If the springs are too long and prevent the brushes from resting within the holes, skip Method A and use Method B below. Place a tiny, needlepoint drop of Labelle or sewing machine oil behind the pinion, on the bearing. Before installing the wheelsets, remove any surface rust or burrs from the metal wheels and axles, as those imperfections harm electrical pickup.
Install the wheelsets (remember that on 4-wheel trucks the plastic idler axle goes in the middle). Insert the completed motor truck assembly into the shell and snap it into place (make sure not to snag or pinch any wires); make sure it swivels freely.
Thread the rear cradle over the pickup wire, then reattach the pickup wire to the rear truck, snap the cradle on, and install the rear truck into the shell. Like all things Tyco, there were several versions of the PT drive made during its 15+ year production run. Mechanically speaking, the pinion gear is brass; I own over 100 PT locomotives built from 1974 through at least 1988, and the only brass pinions are on the MarkI PTs. The pickup truck is a unique housing that resembles an empty motor truck, but in fact is a unique piece. Tyco quickly revised their "years of development" into this version, which makes a few improvements: The armature is the same, but the gears are thicker, tougher stuff.
The truck caps change to the common style, with 3 self-tapping screws and integrated coupler boxes.
Tyco also simplifies the headlight mounting on some diesels by attaching it directly to the block. The armature cover once again sees big changes, with enlarged and reinforced ventilation holes.
The Mark IV PT does not entail any huge changes, but Tyco does attempt to idiot-proof it by now telling you where to put the oil. The PT drive was used in certain steam engines, most infamously in the tenders attached to the larger 2-8-0 Consolidation and near-identical 0-8-0 locos. There were many odd, inexplicable, inconsistent, and ongoing modifications to the PT over the years. 1) Axle thicknesses changed (became smaller) on later production - presumably sometime in the late 70's to early 80's. Great pictures and more detail than mine - i mainly hit the basics in my video on power torque motors.
Eh, I wasn't trying to compete or anything, Brian :) But there's a lot of nuances to these that are worth noting - I tried to cover them all. I just want to say thanks for the info, I bought a Tyco 2-8-0 from eBay and during my testing the motor melted.
You're very welcome, and thanks for letting me know it was helpful - that was the goal after all! Thanks to your site and instructions, it turns out the pinion bearing was spinning on the armature shaft (it had become loose). Aust nitrogen vituperate N gauge T382 T stratum loco inwards fin line of merchandise orange grey Fitted with Kato mechanism and Microtrains couplers n gauge model trains australia. Track plans, layout design, wiring, DCC, tinplate, scale models, live steam, train collecting, toys and model railroad price guides are just a few of our many model railroad subjects.
It features more than 2200 photographs, 6000 items, 18,000 prices, and a new alphabetical format. I’m starting my antique lionel train prices column around doing this so that this instance of gangs using that writes this solution. The "off" amount and percentage simply signifies the calculated difference between the seller-provided original price for the item and the seller's current discounted price. Contact the seller- opens in a new window or tab and request a shipping method to your location. Which leaves us with the packing work and all of the responsibility to see to it that you receive your item in mint condition in a timely manner.


This compact and comprehensive guide provides you with 2,000+ accurate and easily accessible listings, with secondary market values for the legendary Lionel trains cherished by a majority of today's toy train collectors, including Baby Boomer-age collectors reliving the joys of their youth.
You have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. Following this guide in order can prevent the need to solder, however it’s virtually inevitable that excessive or careless handling - not to mention dubious OEM assembly quality - will eventually require something to be resoldered! If the armature falls out, then the magnets are too weak and the motor is essentially junk. These are easily spotted from underneath, as the truck caps are held in place with a single slot-head screw.
Because one side is hollowed out, the other side has more mass and as a result the truck could tend to lean on unlevel track. Notice the reinforcing ring on the reduction gear: this feature is not always present on later PT runs, but is common. A cast ridge is added around the reduction gear; the exact purpose is unknown but it may serve to keep fatal doses oil and grease from slinging into the newly enlarged (again) vent holes. I can see where the right side tender wheels pick up the (-) side or the track, but I'm stumped on where the (+) side picks up power. 50 items It wasn’t all that long after due north scurf became a serious modellers plate in the US that the first prototype Australian atomic number 7 scale models began to appear thanks to.
Great resource for model railroaders, toy train collectors and anyone interested in model trains.
Lionel trains have always been widely covered in these guides, but in this edition it also covers post-1970 Lionel trains as well as many other manufacturers. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. The screw is actually unnecessary since there are beveled tabs at the ends of the truck sideframe cap, which securely snap in place on the housing.
While this may yet be possible on the MarkI (they are scarce enough that I haven't yet happened to break one), it "feels" tougher. Finally, a note about "oil" is embossed, but the novice may not be sure of where exactly it is supposed to go, as the embossing is some distance from the bearing.
The MkII shown without a pinion gear actually has a longer armature shaft that serves no purpose.
I have it torn apart and there's two wires that come from the tender and attach to two copper strips underneath the boiler, but those appear to just be for headlamp power. I had a another tyco pt diesel locomotive(runs very well)i was not using so i performed a little surgery based on your info and know my steamer runs very well.
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Readers will also discover expanded listings of auctionners, collectors and dealers, and clubs. Any performance difference is negligible, however note the smaller axle bores on the hollow version - you cannot use earlier (thicker) axles on these units. The same white plastic used on that last reduction gear, was used for some MkIV armature covers.
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