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Categories: Japanese Tattoo Designs | Author: admin 09.02.2016

Edwardian women loved facials and spent many hours massaging and applying creams to their face to keep their skin soft and supple. The more daring women would mix up dyes from cosmetic preparations created at their chosen pharmacy.
While there were many notable perfumers such as Houbigant (1775) Rimmel (1834), Bourjois (1863), Shiseido ( 1872), Ponds (1872), Richard Hudnut (1888), they dealt mostly in skincare and of course female fragrances ;  it was the early 20th century that saw some real innovators in makeup and beauty emerge such as Helena Rubinstein (1903),  Papier Poudre ( 1903), Coty (1904), Princess Pat (1907), Harriet Hubbard (1907), Max Factor (1909),  L’Oreal (1909), Elizabeth Arden (1910) just at the tail of the Edwardian era. The first real innovations in the development of modern beauty cosmetics for women emerged in the 1910’s, during and after the First World War. The impact these films had on women was considerable, and the early flappers of post war Europe began to use more eye makeup when out partying. In 1914 – Max Factor introduced pancake makeup along with the first commercial eye shadows made from henna extracts. The metal Lipstick tube was  allegedly invented in 1915 by Maurice Levy ( we are searching for definitive patent proof on this still) , a clever push up stick of lip color inside a metal bullet-like cartridge tube.
On the other hand there are numerous Mary Garden ads showing various metal cases for rouge etc and this one from 1917 that certainly looks like a lipstick tube.


Up to the First World War, lip colors came in little tubs or sticks wrapped in paper and were made from various shades of carmine, a red colorant taken from cochineal beetles. Lemon juice either consumed or applied as a face tonic was a popular method of achieving this feminine complexion. By the turn of the century cosmetics generally consisted of little pots of rouge for cheeks, eyes and lips along with blotting papers. Edwardian Makeup was very much a DIY affair, and the objective was to create an effect of youthful beauty without anyone knowing you were wearing makeup. Searching for cosmetics was quite a furtive affair, with concealed backdoor entrances provided for an elite clientele. The First World War and the advent of Hollywood movies saw names such as Lady Esther, Inc (1913), Cutex Nail Polish (1914), Maybelline (1915) , Dorothy Gray (1916), and Marie Earle (1918). Max Factor, who had opened his salon in LA in 1909, was already making a name for himself with his work in the young Hollywood studio system. The Ballet Russes phenomenon in London in 1911 also inspired both Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth Arden to develop eye makeup.


The Hollywood vamp look helped sell these new products  and it is no coincidence that most early makeup advertising appeared in movie magazines like Photoplay. Cosmetics and Skin traced this claim to a 1957 article – but there are no patents or ads in existence to prove this assertion.
He helped create the screen siren looks of  among others – Theda Bara, with her heavily kohled eyes in the first screen version of Cleopatra in 1917. Collecting Vintage Compacts suggests that the true inventor may have been a William kendell – who designed metal cases for the French cosmetics brand Mary Garden by  Rigaud. The brand name inspired by the sister of founder Tom Lyle Williams – Maybel, who he had frequently watched concoct her own eye and lash makeup from Vaseline and ash. The final perfected brand he launched in 1917 was a cake mascara or mascaro which was made from a type of soap – sodium stearate.



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