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Camden Town, in north London, is a people watcher’s paradise, a vibrant outpost with a gritty working-class core that is paradoxically home to posh restaurants and of-the-moment celebs such as Amy Winehouse. As the crowds thickens, Fred tells me that Camden Town is now one of London’s main attractions. We inch our way to the Stables Market, where a United Nations of food vendors resides – no fast-food franchises here. Next, we venture into the bowels of the Loch Market, passing every cuisine imaginable, to Kim’s Vietnamese, nestled between a manicure bar and a tarot reader. To the left of the old horse hospital, we checked out Cyberdog, formerly Gilbey’s Gin House.
But we decide to wander down Chalk Farm Road, checking out the impressive array of boots and leather goods (there’s an Aldo factory outlet where bargains abound). Not all that long ago, Brits would go slumming in Camden Town, mainly for the pubs and cheap music venues. I should have gone for kebabs instead at the Marathon Kebab House, also popular for late-night drinking. We decide to head off to the Hawley Arms, where Ken has a shot of whisky chased with a pint of bitters and I have a lovely steak-and-kidney pie that renews my faith in English grub.


Nearby are several clubs and music venues, such as the Enterprise, the Electric Ballroom and the Monarch.
Until then, he says, the population was mainly Irish, but with inexpensive housing the English, Scots and Welsh moved in in the ’60s. One of the most popular clubs is the Underworld, beneath the World’s End Pub, across from the Camden Town tube station.
On my way to Heathrow Airport the next day, nursing a hangover, I tell my taxi driver about the awful eel, meat pie and mash I’d consumed the night before. I have a freshly squeezed orange juice and, a few stalls later, order a barbecued Brazilian steak sandwich, which is gobsmackingly good, to coin a Britishism.
According to Fred, it was once a stall in the market; today, Cyberdog is represented by two huge floors of hard-core techno gear. Locals favour Punk Glamour (women’s fashions), Episode (retro and vintage) and LCB Surf Store (surf and skate gear). A grumpy overworked server scoops a grey gelatinous mass from a plastic container and plops the quivering heap on my grey ceramic plate.
Throngs of goths, punks, hippies, rockabillies and other fad followers are moving en masse along Chalk Farm Road to Stables Market.


Today there are 500 shops and stalls in Stables Market alone, and Camden attracts more than 100,000 people every weekend.
Reinforced, we marched onward and upward to higher-end stalls, including a tailor of men’s fine shirts, art supplies and craft stalls, and the ubiquitous sellers of crystals, incense and drug accoutrements.
It was a building used to turn trains around before the reverse gear was invented for trains,” says Fred. Many ogle the expensive gear but no one seemed to be buying, or even trying on, the bizarre foamy spacesuits, bearing price tags north of ?400.
Tranquil Camden Loch is part of the canal system that runs alongside the market (and all the way to Scotland). The pie and mash is rendered even more tasteless smothered by a thin green glue made of water, flour and parsley.
We make our way upstairs to the bar, order a round of margaritas, perch on high chairs and watch the band in comfort.



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