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In general I make global adjustments (adjustments that apply to the whole image at once like colour saturation) and will sometimes make local adjustments to certain areas of the image, for example, there might be some dark areas that I will brighten. First thing to note, and a very important one, is that I shoot in raw format, as opposed to jpeg. For this example I'll be using a photo of a pier at Lake Te Anau that was taken during my recent trip of New Zealand.
The first thing is to add a neutral density filter to the sky to bring back the brightness. The clarity is much higher than I usually go (around +20 usually) as it was a little misty on this day. The contrast and clarity settings have made the blacks and whites a little too strong, so I bring back the highlights and whites big time, and also lighten the blacks. The mountain on the left is too dark thanks to the digital ND grad filter going in a straight line across the image (also why I didn't use a real soft or hard grad filter). Now the tedius part - combing the image at full size or greater to find and remove dust spots (dust that gathers on the cameras sensor will show up on your photos at smaller apertures).
So there you have it, done and dusted in 10 minutes tops all in Lightroom - depending on how long I spend looking for dust bunnies! You can spend a lot of time making some absolutely crazy edits to raw files in Adobe Lightroom, both allow you so much room to play with.
When photographing landscapes, I like to spend a bit of time walking around looking before I even take any shots. As much as I enjoy landscape photos, I do like to get up close and personal to little bugs. The E-P1 will initially be available with two lenses, which Olympus is branding as "M. The bulk of the edits are usually done in under 2 minutes, if it takes longer than that for me to get some workable results it means I have a pig for a photo, and as the old saying goes - you put lipstick on a pig but it's still a pig. I don't locally adjust certain colours to make them stand out more as I feel that is cheating e.g. 90% of the time I will use an actual filter as opposed to a digital one, but this time I went without. The actual final step is where I export it to Photoshop and sharpen it before saving it as a .psd file.
But the most important thing is to spend more time in the field getting a good image, so you can spend less time in front of the computer later.

The two most notable include the optical viewfinder (which works only with the 17 mm lens) and the FL-14 external flash.
Well, not yet, as their Camera Raw plug-in didn't support the E-P1's RAW files when this review was written. Do note that 1) you can't use both of these at the same time (for obvious reasons) and 2) the FL-14 is awfully pricey for a relatively weak flash that can't bounce.
In fact, it’s magical.When I first started photography, I didn’t understand what Raw files were, nor did I know how to set my camera to shoot in Raw format. Because the lighting wasn't that harsh due to the misty conditions and so I knew I could "bring back" the sky later on in Lightroom. I think you will, too.Perhaps you feel the way I did, that it’s a bit daunting, like stepping into an unknown field. If so work with me here: I promise you that you will love how it improves your photography. It?s such a challenge when you first begin because there are so may details and things to remember. But then all of a sudden—WOW—you ride your bike or you drive that car and it seems like the easiest thing in the world!
Continue with what you’re doing, because shooting in Raw will make your workflow take a little longer. But if you secretly dream of improving your photos, why not give Raw a chance?If you are a portrait photographer then shooting in Raw is a definitely a good thing. To do professional retouching you need to work on a Raw file for the optimal results.Changing to Raw will not be an instant magic pill, which suddenly gives you state-of-the-art photos. The major benefits of shooting in RAW As a photographer you should always aim to “get it right in camera.” As a self-taught photographer I know that this can be difficult at first. If you over-exposed or under-exposed your photo, you will be able to recover details and rescue what, otherwise, may be lost. Say, for example, you take a photo of your family during an evening when everyone is gathered around the dinner table.
There’s not much day light available so all the artificial lights in the house are turned on. There may even be candles lit.When you look at the back of your camera the photo appears to have a yellow tone. What’s great about a Raw file is that you can never destroy it, no matter how many changes you make.

And you can go back to a specific photo at any time and re-process it over and over again.Raw files tend to be dull and boring straight out of the camera. You will need to finish it on your computer, which is beneficial: it will give you control over the final image output. To ensure professional retouching without losing image quality.When you risk blown out highlights. In a Raw file, you can often restore details and highlights that are overexposed.When your white balance is off and your photo is affected by sourroundings that are interfering with the available light. This can make your photos look yellow or green.When you are going to enlarge the photo and print it in a big size.
What Kind of Software to useWhen you shoot in RAW you’re using computer software to convert your images. When you upload a RAW file into Photoshop the Raw converter program will automatically open up.
Each slider control a specific adjustment like exposure, contrast, brightness, color tones, shadows, saturation.
You can adjust so many things inside Camera Raw, but as a beginner this is enough to familiarize yourself with this part of the program.6. When you are happy with the result, you can now use the image in Photoshop to make final adjustments. To bring your photo into Photoshop, simply click on “Open Image” down in the right-hand corner. She is known for her elegant and bright photography and draw much of her inspiration from the Nordic countryside, travels, food and still life.
After a decade of working with psychology and coaching, Christina?s passion for photography evolved into a full-time photography business.
Today she runs a thriving + fast growing business specializing in professional, motivating and engaging training for female photographers + creative souls.

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