Last year at an awards dinner in Napa, I happened to be seated next to Adam Strum, publisher of Wine Enthusiast. It was directly across from this station that Edoardo Seghesioa€”part of a wave of immigrants from northern Italya€”bought his first 10 acres in 1895. Only one acre of that legacy vineyard remains (plus the railroad depot, bought for $20 by Angela after she learned Western Pacific Railroad planned to tear it down). Therea€™s an old saying: The more a grapevine grows like a weed, the more it tastes like a weed.
During sangiovesea€™s heyday, however, a€?everybody came out with a $35 sangiovese and it was very mediocre or blended with cabernet,a€? Seghesio continues. Florentine vintners since 1385, the Antinoris have been tied to sangiovese for 26 generations. Three years later, Whitbread sold its 85% stake to British liquor company Allied-Lyons (which later became Allied-Domecq). As owners of Clos du Bois winery, Allied-Domecq Wines had done a lot to make merlot fashionable. In 1993, Allied-Domecq decided to sell Atlas Peak in a a€?sale lease-backa€? scheme (changing it from a capital expense to an operating expense, to benefit shareholders).
When the lease expired, Antinori rechristened the winery Antica and shifted its emphasis to cabernet.
High in the Macayamas mountains, Lorenzo Petroni has been producing Poggio alla Pietra ($60) since 1998.
Also worth seeking out are the sangioveses from Vino Noceto in Shenandoah Valley, up in the Sierra foothillsa€™ Amador County. And thata€™s where wea€™ll pick up next timea€”with a look at ribolla gialla, fiano, greco, barbera, and all the other varieties breathing new life into the Cal-Ital scene. Patricia Thomson is a wine writer who splits her time between New York and Italy, where she runs wine tours through her company La Dolce Vita Wine Tours. First, the very idea of California sangiovese has become a laughing matter in some quarters.


Though known for their zinfandel, theya€™re the largest sangiovese producer in Sonoma and own the oldest extant sangiovese vineyard in the country. But that acre is a precious archive of historic clones, brought from the Old Country by viticulturalist and brandy maker A.R. The basic orange label ($30) comes from three clones planted on porous flatland, benchland, and hillside. When Piero Antinori took the reins in 1966, he began traveling the wine world, coming frequently to Napa and befriending such pioneers as Robert Mondavi. British brewer Whitbread, which owned Antinoria€™s importer, Julius Wile, decided to get into the California wine business. Like a true Tuscan, he sought a high-elevation mountainside location (the exception to the rule in Napa at that time), settling on a remote, undeveloped property on Atlas Peak. Enter Terrence Clancy, one of the first executives to bring sophisticated marketing techniques to the wine business.
Antinori told them, a€?Ia€™m your buyer.a€? But the deal obligated him to lease the land back to Allied-Domecq for 15 years. Sold only at the winery, a€?ita€™s a way for us to tell the Antinori story.a€? Made for passion, not profit, the Antica sangiovese ($35) is a delight. Made from sangiovese grosso, this flagship wine strives to emulate the dark, brooding style of Brunello di Montalcinoa€”a goal announced at the winerya€™s gate, where the signage reads a€?Brunello di Sonoma.a€? This pure sangiovese offers raspberry fruit with an undercurrent of tobacco leaf and meat. Founded in 1987 by Suzy and Jim Gullett, Noceto offers a basic sangiovese ($18), a reserve ($24), and four outstanding single-vineyard cru ($28).
Second, this noble varietya€”the undisputed king in Tuscany, where ita€™s behind Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Brunello di Montalcinoa€”has virtually disappeared from our shores.
In their Healdsburg tasting room, alongside sepia photos of mustached founder Eduardo Seghesio and his Gibson Girl wife, Angela, hangs a lithograph of Chianti Station. The strategy worked, and in 1910 Seghesio expanded, purchasing the southern edge of Italian Swiss Colonya€™s vast property (owned by his wifea€™s uncle), where theya€™d planted a Chianti field blend: canaiolo, trebbiano, malvasia, and, presumably, the first sangiovese in the state. The more intense, oak-aged Venom ($54) comes from the fourth clonea€”with the smallest berries and loosest clustersa€”planted on the formidable Rattlesnake Hill.


A naturally vigorous vine, its growth must be tamed with repeated pruning, fastidious canopy management, and soil-poor sites on rocky slopes. They invited Antinori and champagne house Bollinger (another subsidiary) to become minority partners. They planted cabernet, chardonnay, and in 1987, enologist Renzo Cotarella and viticulturalist Andrea Paoletti brought in sangiovese budwood from Il Poggione winery in Montalcino and T-budded two acres as an experiment. But its two remaining plots are the winerya€™s best, at the top of gravelly, well-drained slopes. Varietally correct, it has sangiovesea€™s red-fruit flavors and bright acidity and is laced with a minerality that speaks of site.
These are spot-on specimens, each beautifully balanced and ready to dazzle at the dinner table. But when I sit down with Glenn Salva, longtime estate manager of Antinoria€™s Napa property, the story is more complicated. Few Californians bothered to put in the effort or hand over their best vineyardsa€”not when cabernet or pinot noir could fetch far greater returns. Why would Mondavi take cabernet out of To Kalon when youa€™re making the best cabernet there?a€? Echoing Seghesio, he says, a€?Sangiovese is a prolific producer, so if you put it on deep, rich soil, youa€™ll have clusters that fill a bushel basket.
Whata€™s more, Californiaa€™s heat and lack of haze hasten sangiovesea€™s ripening, which leaves its phenolics undeveloped and flavors truncated.
We have 10 acres and never get over 20 tons total.a€? Thata€™s a far cry from the Green Giant bounty of the 1990s.



What a girl wants movie mel gibson
Download free dating apps for mobile




Comments to «Couldnt make out meaning»

  1. POZETIF_KIZ writes:
    Guys are genetically hardwired sadly watch that know it, you will be the most.
  2. ELMAYE2 writes:
    With 1st impressions no one desires to see this kind of backward.
  3. KETR writes:
    Deciding on colors for the suit terms of effectiveness??I have.
  4. Rafo writes:
    Once in a although and usually seem to get he will by no means trade the.
  5. Yalgiz_Oglan writes:
    Psychology Right now explains this phenomenon: The color.


2015 Make video presentation adobe premiere pro | Powered by WordPress